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I would like to preface this by saying that this might be somewhat of a rookie question, but never the less I am in search of answers. For some time now I have noticed that the front brake on my 2003 450 EXC has been fairly squeaky when coming to stops, even though I have hardly put any miles on the bike since I installed new pads several months ago. Upon closer inspection to the front caliper I noticed that the outside stationary brake pad does not appear to clear the thin channel located at the top of the brake pad for the rotor to pass through (picture provided). I would also like to add that I have an extra front caliper for my model KTM that also appears to have the same "issue", and this caliper is also the one I will be posting photos of, instead of the one currently mounted on the bike. So, is it possible that this is the source of the banshee screech my front brake seems to emit whilst coming to a stop? If so, does anyone know of any fixes for this issue, or is it something that I just shouldn't be worrying about? As a final side note, the only direct, let's call it, "performance" issue I have noticed is that my front brake is unable to keep the front wheel locked whenever I attempt to do burnouts. I could basically be squeezing the lever so hard that I feel like it's going to snap off in my hand, and the front wheel will either slowly roll, or sightly hop. Thanks to all in advance for any help or wisdom given, it is very much appreciated.

We spent weeks trying to determine why our 2001 520EXC wouldn't start after we did the top end and replaced the OEM stator with an upgraded TrailTech 100W (need to run headlight and a fan once it's dualsported). HISTORY: Before I tore it down, the bike ran almost perfectly, though the starter was hit-or-miss. I mostly used it as a kick-assist, because even jetted properly, it was tough to kick. However, I essentially rescued this bike from the desert in Saudi Arabia and it was almost completely destroyed electrically with some truly shameful bodge jobs. I replaced literally every electrical component but the pickup and rotor and had it running well, but was nervous because the outside was in such a frightful state, I couldn't imagine it was internally sound. If nothing else, I wanted to make sure the infamous deco lever stop bolt was addressed. Sure enough, all was well inside, with the exception of worn timing chain guides. Truly a testament to the legendary RFS! Once buttoned up, we found that with a sharp kick, it started first or second kick almost every time, though it was still a bit more difficult than it should have been. However, I could lay on the starter for 10 or 15 seconds and it would cough once or twice but never catch. Hot or cold, it didn't matter. I swapped plugs, compared sparks, checked coils and wires, dropped in an enormous 300CCA AntiGravity lithium battery, tested voltage drop at the starter, scrubbed grounds, inspected starter sprag, cleaned and wondered at the carburetor jetting, pondered whether I'd improperly assembled the auto decompression lever, pondered a busted woodruff key, second and third-guessed the timing, and generally went insane. Nothing was wrong. Absolutely maddening. After exhausting all the other intelligent options, I arrived at the solution by pure, dumb luck...or the longest, most methodical troubleshooting I've ever done. You be the judge. I only noticed the problem when we opened the ignition cover again because I was going to replace the new TT stator with the original. The air gap for the pickup (pulse generator) off the rotor's reluctor bar (I think that's the right name for the raised section) was at least 2mm or so. I was staring at the manual a couple nights before and a note about a 0.75mm gap stood out--primarily because that doesn't seem to be an adjustable component. I've never adjusted pickup gap ever, though I'm primarily a 2-stroke guy. Probably should have remembered from the stories about how sensitive some of the old points ignitions were to air gap. Using my 0.76mm feeler gauge, I bent the pickup bracket inward until I had drag on the gauge. Buttoned it up, and the bike started absolutely effortlessly on choke in a 45F (7C) garage. Zero hesitation, first poke. Starts first try every time now. Can't wait to get it out and thrash it a bit to see how it feels! This was literally a 5-minute fix, requiring nothing but an 8mm socket, feeler gauges, strong thumbs, and maybe a stator cover gasket. How frustratingly simple for a problem that took weeks to find!

I have a 2004 RM250 that I’m trying to remove the flywheel on, but I can’t get the flywheel remover tool to begin threading into the flywheel, I think it’s because of how corroded and gummed up the threads are but not completely sure. Does anyone else have this problem and any tips/solutions?

Just rebuilt bottom end, top end, and all case bearings on a 2017 KTM 65 at 158 hrs. Engine would not start after rebuild. Good spark, compression, fuel... pulled hair out. Used a PRox crank, Vertex top end, Hot Rod bearings. Finally I have determined that the woodruff key slot on the rotor side of the crank is machined in the wrong position, making it impossible to properly time the engine. The only way I can align the timing marks on the stator and rotor using the nihilo deck height/timing tool is after TDC. Has anyone ever had this issue??? Plan to remove woodruff key and align rotor so I can properly time engine to verify. Any thoughts?

What brake rotor do you fine folks prefer for your strictly off-road, woods bike.. solid, or floater?? I'm not necessarily wanting to know brand specific, but feel free to let us know your experiences! I ride a 09' WR450 strictly off-road. My current terrains consist of everything except desert. I got the bike a year ago with a floater (possibly factory original). It stops well enough, but I feel like the floats get clogged with sand/mud then starts to squeal. I recently got a new solid rotor (haven't had the chance to test it in the bikes natural habitat yet), then I got another set of wheels off a 12' (with very few miles) that has a (new) factory floater. So I was dead set on going solid rotor, until I also ended up with a new floater. What do your prefer.. pros/cons of either??

Hey guys Scott here, sorry to post this as the first post, but i have spent quite a while searching various threads with no luck. So here goes, got a 2017 140L for my son for Christmas. Very clean, seemingly good running bike. While riding today, he choked it down while on start off on a slight incline, then when tried to re-start, it sounded like the starter was free spinning. So we loaded it up and got it back to the house. After looking at the starter gear and limiter gear, it appeared fine. I pulled the side cover (magneto/generator/rotor cover maybe?) and noticed the rotor/magneto bolt was very loose. I tightened it, but not knowing spec, I tightened with a ratchet until I couldn't hold the magneto/rotor and it would spin over. Buttoned it all back up and it fired up and ran. It being cold out, it cut off even with the choke on, I tried to start it again and the magneto seemed to slip again, so i used a dewalt 1/4" impact driver to tighten the bolt, thinking it maxed out at about 100lbs of torque and should be ok, if I didn't stay on the bolt, just snug it up decently. After tightening the bolt, I put the covers back on and tried to start it. It now acts as if the timing is out, but the engine turns over easily and I am getting a spark at the plug. I would think that if timing was out it would be difficult to turn over. I pulled the cam chain cover and lined the cam gear up with TDC, but the magneto/rotor isn't lined up with "T" being in the 12:00 position. Could this be an issue? My question is, could the magneto slip in position, while the flex plate/flywheel stays in place without shearing the key? and does the magneto need to be lined up and the cam gear? I also checked the woodruff key and its good. I honestly cant figure out how it would have jumped timing with the timing chain being tight and the key not being sheared. Any insight or advise would be great. thanks again Scott

Hey guys, So I picked up a set of DRZ400E rims. I have been looking for ages for a set of these! I have an '08 SM model. So luckily these will bolt right on with all the standard DRZ spacers that my SM already has. However, I hear this might require me to interchange my rotor in the front, to a rear SM rotor (front one is way too big for off road according to a few DRZ forums I am part of). The 400SM models front rotor is bolted on though which might make that tricky every time! Is anyone riding an SM, who also interchanges to E rims when needed? And what is your setup currently to make the interchange as fast and painless as possible? Including sprocket / chain sizes. I want to be able to change between E and SM standard rims without wanting to Sparta kick my bike over each time! PS: On the more social / networking side of things... Subscribe to my new-ish Youtube Channel, JenSM, to watch Cape Town Supermoto adventures (new video is there!). I will also be working on a few other videos that include my Yamaha TDR180 Scrambler rebuild. Any other Supermoto Street Legal crews / Supermoto riders / DRZ riders to subscribe to on Youtube, lurking around? Link me to your channels so that I can check your videos out!

2017 YZ250FX I routinely bleed the brakes and no air is in the system. I have a braking stainless front brake line and switches to what I read was the hardest bite brake pads (double H sintered) The problem I have with the brakes if you have to squeeze the crap out of the lever to get any aggressive braking. I’m constantly loosing front brakes due to using the crap out of them trying to get good braking Whats the next thing I should be looking at to increase braking performance? What im thinking in order of added performance: 1. 2018 brembo master cylinder 2. 280 rotor kit (already has 270) 3. Billet caliper 4. Aftermarket rotor thoughts?

it looks like the front rotor on my 2003 cr250r is hitting the caliper on the inner side. it looks like there is a small cutout where the rotor is sitting but i dont see it ever touching. I'm not sure if it is supposed to be like that...Or it did it because of hitting. any photos of the caliper on the rotor would help give me an idea if it is hitting or not.

2018 YZ250X. On my last ride I noticed a squeal when hard braking the rear. I worry I’ve gone too long without a pad replacement. Removing the pads shows I’ve brought them near the edge of too far (though a fraction before the metal holders). Going to install new pads front and rear, but... The rear rotor has some black marks and measures 3.4 mm at narrowest. Which do you think... 1. Looks okay. Replace pads and ride? 2. Savable, but I need to polish it some way (and if so any suggestions on how)? 3. Replace? Pics and measurements below. While at it, I measured front rotor, too, which is at 2.4 mm, in case it’s gone, also. (I looked in manual and could not find a rotor thickness wear limit — please excuse if it’s there and I missed it). Thanks for any suggestions!

Hey all. I may be asking in the wrong place but here it goes anyway. I'm looking for a bracket to allow the stock brakes to operate a 320 mm rotor with the stock caliper. This is for supermoto racing. I've used them on my '04 and '09 but I can't seem to find the part, despite plenty of searching for the MY '17/'18. If anyone has a lead or some information that will help me find it please let me know. Also im looking for the spacer that sets the sprocket out a few MM to use older wheels on the new bikes. I found that these used to be sold but now they are hard to find. If anyone knows a place that still sells them please LMK Thanks in advance.

I have a Honda SL125 engine and I'm trying to wire it up so that it can run without the battery. I found this guide http://waynescyclegarage.mysite.com/custom.html and I've followed it and done just what it says, but I'm not getting any spark. I used a voltage meter on the stator and there seems to be no issues with that. I also put one wire of the meter on the wire going into the coil and the other on the spark plug and when I use the kick starter it comes up with something on the voltage meter, but despite all that, I still get no spark. What could I be doing wrong?