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Found 12 results

  1. Can anyone tell me if these are the same parts? Air fuel adjustment screw? In rebuilding carbs. The head on the old one was stripped and it was also impossible to remove work left hand drill and extractor. I end up having to drill all the way through the threaded section and then pick out remaining brass threads. The old piece is not tapered, line the new piece. Just I suspect it was over tightened by previous owner, and the taper was pushed through the carb body orifice. My jet kit instructions say to screw all the way in and screw out 3 turns. The new adjustment screw seems very loose that far out, like it'll just fall out from engine vibration if left at the setting. Any pointers will be greatly appreciated.
  2. Hey everyone, My Idle screw is completely stuck inside the Idle screw hole, The head is completely stripped and I've tried pliers, still wont budge, any ideas?
  3. It seems every couple of years I tear the o-ring on my fuel mixture screw. I would rather not keep buying screws just because I need an o-ring. I see replacements online but I was planning on riding this weekend and can't wait for shipping. Does anyone know the size of the o-ring on the tip of the screw so I can hopefully run down to the hardware store and pick up a replacement? Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
  4. Here is a modification of the stock air screw for my 2006 KTM 250/300 XC-W. I took the stock air screw and drilled a hole in the screwdriver slot end, then soldered a section of brass treaded rod into that hole. A little bit of vinyl tubing screws over that. Then I took a knob that I found at a hardware store and drilled it out so that the vinyl tub fit inside it. A little bit of hot glue to hold the knob on and it's good to go. It's pretty easy to reach at a dead stop, and the vinyl tubing flexes so the needle won't get damaged if it gets hit with a foreign object. You know trees, rocks, dirt, the ground, etc. I ride between 3500 and 7000 feet and find that a quarter turn here and there keeps the bike running great. YMMV Good Luck Buckwheat
  5. Hey everybody, long time lurker, first time caller, I'm in a bit of a pickle, I've seemed to mangle one of my carb's screws to the point of no return. One could say my carb's screw... is screwed! (Pun intended) Anyway, I ended up rounding the phillips head, then attempted to cut it into a flat head with a dremmel, stripping that too, and then trying to break it free with needle-nose vice grips, which wouldn't grip strong enough. I'll be going to the hardware store tonight to get a screw extractor to try, but I was wondering if anyone else had any ideas. Also, if I shear the head off where do I go from there? And don't worry, I already have the allen bolts to replace them with, just need to get this one out! Pics are below...
  6. I was about to replace my sprockets and chain, when I noticed that the countershaft seal screw is sheered off and the threading is broken. I am having a difficult time trying to find what exactly I would need to order to fix this, or if I want to just take it to a garage and have a professional do it. I am just confusing myself more than anything, so I figured I'd ask questions rather than continue to be frustrated. Please ignore the fact the sprocket looks like hell, I know this. The chain snapped while riding and sheered a bunch of things in a fantastic way. 😐
  7. I've been looking and looking and can't find full info on this anywhere. I see setting for the bottom screw (mixture?) but not or the top (idle?) screw. I've checked the manual and they only mention the one mixture (they call it pilot air) screw. Can anyone tell me the factory turns from seated on the two screws? I know the mixture screw (bottom) is 2-3.5, but what about the top?
  8. My 2008 yz450f is running really lean. I know this because it has hanging rpms and it pops and bangs a lot, lot of backfire especially on deceleration. It barely idles and when I slow down and twist the throttle to get going agin I dies. The jetting spec for my bike with my DRD exhaust is 165 main 45 pilot 4 needle position. These settings and setting close to them do not work. I have gone all the way up to 52 sized pilot and the bike still seems to run lean. Tried all fuel screw positions also.
  9. Hi guys, Picked up a 08 DR-Z400S a couple weeks ago. Love the thing.. But like most of us, I was bit with the need for more speed only after a few good rides. After scanning through some google and TT searches it quickly became obvious, throw a JD kit in it, cut the 3x3 hole in the airbox, and get back to shredding... but quicker and smoother than before.... these searches made it an easy choice. And hey, while i'm at it, might as well get one of those kientech extended fuel mixture screws, just to make life easier....why not? Everyone seems to suggest it..... decided to order both the jet kit and the extended screw directly from the JD website. I figured this would insure the best possible customer service, and support down the road if needed. A week passes and the jet kit finally arrives, but to my horror they appear to have forgotten the extended fuel screw! But nope, it was conveniently placed inside the JD Jet kit box. How thoughtful of them! 🙂 Everything in my life went on hold and in goes the jet kit, and extended screw, following instructions to a T.... 3x3 hole opened up exc... I was excited, Gitty, and could hardly wait to let the fuel finish filling the float before I flashed her up. and then it happend... it just wasnt right... idle was slightly rough, sharp throttle snaps off idle where less than ideal, and taking the bike for a rip was definitely an improvement, but I was no way blown away... Back on the hoist she goes to start fine tuning the fuel/air mixture screw... -HEY! good thing I bought the extended screw to make this easier! Well it turns out I was able to tighten the fuel/air ratio all the way in till snug with hardly any noticeable rpm difference. All signs point to the pilot jet being to large. But how could that be!? I installed the 25 pilot just like the instructions told me. I did everything exactly as outlined in the instructions! After playing with it some more, just to keep coming up with the same conclusion.... I need to install a smaller pilot jet. I hit the google machine and TT search and starting digging into pilot jet issues with the JD kit. And all of a sudden with a few different phrases in my search, I come up with a handful of people explaining you need to run the stock 22.5 pilot when you run the keintech extended fuel screw. One post mentioned it was a different taper.. WTF So heres the 1st point of my rant... Why the F@%^ didn't the JD website mention this difference in taper on their web site, when I ordered the kit, with the keinteck instructions, even when they went as far as to open the jet kit packaging, and place this extended screw in their products packaging! It really ticked me off.. lol now Ive got to replace this pilot jet tomorrow morning before work instead of going for a ride on my new faster bike! :/ and the 2nd point.. This deeper research into JD jet kit issues has brought up a few mentions of people having better running bikes using the 4th clip on the blue needle, instead of the suggested 3rd clip. Can anybody chime in on this for me, and give me feed back? I know I could probly search for this, but if anybody feels like throwing me a bone on this one, I really dont think I can do any more JD jet kit googling tonight without my eyes going cross eyed! also obviously if I have to pull er apart again tomorrow morning, it would be nice to kill two birds with one stone 🙂 possibly my rant is emotion based, and I should have spent longer and dug deeper before I made my purchase? Current set up: (till tomorrow morning) '08 dr-z400s stock exhaust, 3x3 hole cut. moose oiled air filter.... 155 main blue needle 3rd clip down 25 pilot keintech extened air screw screwed all the way in.... grrr sea level, Southern Westcoast Vancouver Island, Humid and usually 10-20c degrees this time of year...
  10. Hi All, I just bought a 2011 300 XC with gnarly pipe and fmf scilencer. Its my first two stroke and I'm loving it so far. I'm currently working out some jetting issues and I am pretty close to getting it dialed in for my elevation. I am wondering about the air screw adjustment on this bike... I don't seem to be able to lean the air screw enough to get the thing to act lean (almost stall) when I crack the throttle? I have it backed out 3 turns and it won't go any further. I do notice that when I screw it in it acts more rich to the point of bogging at about 1.5 turns in or so. It has a 35 pilot in it. Is this an indication of float level being too high? For the most part I seem to be running pretty rich and have dropped to a 160 MJ and the L needle dropped all the way. Its running great at this setting with only a tiny stutter at about 1/8" of throttle when cruising down the road at moderate speed. Dropping the needle to the 1st position helped this tremendously but it is still there. I'm unsure if this is a two stroke phenomena or not? The settings I'm at seem to be two notches lower than the stock chart and one jet lower. Its pretty dang good but I have some spooge coming down the exhaust still which is surprising considering I should be on the lean side of things I would think... I am at 5000' and about 70 degrees. Can anyone lend some insight?
  11. I love DIY's. Couldn't find one on how to fix the radiator shroud fixing points in the fuel tank so I thought I'd make one. My bike is a 1999 KX250. Materials: - Insert screws - M6 screw and possibly a couple of nuts and washers - Drill - Alcohol cleaner - JB Weld Plastic Bonder - Grease This is the fuel tank. Bought it recently a repair that didn't hold up: Previous repair done with a impact nut, didn't do the job: The answer is insert nuts for wood. Can be bought at hardware stores and on eBay. You also need a M6 screw the same length as the insert. Mine were a little bit to long, fixed it with a couple of washers: 1. Start by drilling out the holes to fit the insert. In my case, that's 9.5mm: 2. Clean out the holes and the inserts with alcohol or similar: 3. Add some grease to the M6 screws and washers, you don't want the glue to stick to them: 4. Mount them together, be careful not to get grease on the outside of the inserts: 4. Use a good epoxy. Fat plastics are not easy to glue, JB Weld Plastic Bonder is the only one I could find that is recommended for fuel tanks. Also available in black. 5. Mix the glue according to instructions and fill half the hole, try to get rid of air pockets. I'd recommend you to do one hole at a time. 6. Screw in the inserts and remove excess glue. Then remove the M6. If you are worried the insert will follow the screw out you could do it like this. Keeping the screw still while releasing the nut will make them easier to remove. Mine came out without any problems: Looks a bit beaten up from the last repair but I'm certain it will hold up! And don't redo the mistake of over torquing the bots 🙂
  12. Help! I had to remove the left side transmission case cover to retrieve a valve shim that had fallen down the side of the engine. When I was putting it back on I noticed two of the bolts wouldn' tighten all the way down. One was the short bolt that connect the oil filter cap to the case/cover and the other was a longer bolt that connects the cover to the transmission. Is there any alternate besides refilling a hole? Is this something I can use loctite on?
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