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Found 17 results

  1. Hey guys, Crankcase Oil Leaking From the Exhaust Port 2002 CR250R I think it’s coming into the combustion chamber via the right side crank seal. I’m going to swap out the crank shaft seal. But question is this. Beneath the Prime drive gear is the drive gear collar. Is there a seal that resides inside this collar?
  2. Hello fellow riders. there is a trend that i see with Japanese brands which is they love to use same parts or designs on different bikes even from different manufacturers. Which in the end works for us customers. We can find same parts cheaper or more avaible but labeled for another bike. Esspecially in markets where DRZs are rare and/or discontinued (Europe etc) Also for bearings seals and o-rings. most of them are off the shelf products. i like to buy my parts from reputable manufacturers like skf-koyo-ariete when you buy those as a "kit" from a company that doesnt produce any of that stuff you often pay for package than product itself and theyre mostly inferior. So i will try to list the parts that i know compatible with drz400 and if you can chime in on this post with your knowledge i will add those as well. DRZ400SM --------------- -Front forks: Looks like same unit as on honda CR and suzuki rmz bikes (maybe sm travel is shorter) but i think fork internal spares are compatible. (Need confirmation on fork covers, not sure bottom lugs are same with every bike uses this shock. its near impossible to find fork covers for drz even in aftermarket plastics kits) Ariete"Ari" Seals 2007 ARI.117 size and model: DC4Y - 48 X 58,2 X 8,5/10,5 prtno. 51153-28H30 2007 ARI.126 size and model: Y-1 - 48 X 58,5/62 X 6/11,5 prtno. 51173-28H30 (Dust seal for ARI.117) 2005-2006 ARI.105 size and model: TC4 - 47 X 58 X 10 prtno. 51153-37F80 2005-2006 ARI.106 size and model: SG5 - 47 X 58,5/62 X 6/10,3 prtno. 51173-37F80 (Dust seal for ARI.105) (not sure if drz went to 48mm forks on 2007. tc4 model has one steel spring where as dc4y has 2, also different design on sealing surfaces. i assume its for choice of fork sticktion vs sealing power. Im attaching catalogue.) SKF seals Kit47S Kit47SHD (labeled as "Heavy Duty") SKF Mud Scrapers MS 47S Bushings SKTE/TI 47S -Front brake disc Same hole pattern as Yamaha wr and yz lines of bikes -Front brake pads: Theese exact calipers and pad design used all across dirtbikes from japan and even on gasgas and beta bikes.(too many to list) EBC FA185R for sintered or FA185X for carbon pads (thats the brand that i use you may contribute with other brands part number as well) -Front brake caliper rebuild kits for pretty much all Japanese dirt bikes of the era, can be further detailed. Rm125 Rm250 Rmz450 Rmx450 (2011-2017) dr650 are the ones for suzuki -Front master cylinder: "Road" type master cylinder with bigger reservoir than most dirt bikes. suzuki part fiche shows it has the same piston as intruder1400 cruiser and dr 125 and dr350 bikes -Radiator Louver Same with rm125(till 2008) and rm250 (till 2005) range can be more than that. checking on european resources. -Rear shock S and SM units have different part number. probably sm has shorter travel. since parts fiche doesnt show any inner parts cant confirm suzuki-wide compatibility. But its a pretty wide spread shock produced by showa and used on many bikes arround (with different lenghts of travel and valving etc) Needs more info on bushings and seals and o-rings. -Rear Sprocket Same bolt pattern as rmz ones. -Front sprocket Needs more info -Bearings Steering stem bearings: same across most Suzuki dirt bikes from 1991 to 2019 (specs are welcome to make it easier to find bearings from other manufacturers like skf) Engine bearings: (needs further info. while some bearings are standart off the shelf products some of them are produced just for suzuki with 1milimeters of difference than standart sized ones. thus fitting anything other than oem impossible. size info needed for standard bearings. Swing arm and wheel bearings: As most of us know drz sm uses old rm125 and rm250 swingarm. Thus shares bearings bushings and spacers. Detailed sizing info needed for aftermarket bearing compatibility. (same with wheel bearings) -Seals & O-rings Countershaft seal: 30x40x6mm Countershaft bushing o-ring: D:2.5,ID:21 Catalogs guides charts and manuals for drz : https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HtnVHyxvNvFAG_MEUJwffJwJThD-AIVn Contribitions are more than welcome !! have a good day and ride safe
  3. Hello. My CRF450R 2011 have leaking (oil with coolant) from water pump drainage hole: I install new mechanical seal (7), oil seal (16) and new bearing (15): Filled new coolant and run my bike, all was fine, but after 15 minutes I got heavy coolant leaking: Disassembled again and noticed that "head" of mechanical seal is disconnected: What's can be wrong? Looks like problem with slight tightening (torque) (12 N/m) of impeller (part #6)? Sorry for my bad English.
  4. I am trying to diagnose some issues I am having with my 1999 Suzuki RM125. Symptoms include: Low power, the bottom end seems OK, but there is no real increase at all. The engine revs up, but the bike doesn't really accelerate with a punch like my 1997 CR125R (not bogging though). Smoke seems a lot thicker than my CR. There is a pinging sound from the exhaust, I've heard that might be an air leak caused by a bad magneto-side crank seal. Sometimes when riding the bike will rev up on its own. Black spooge sometimes comes out of the tailpipe. Some more info on the bike: I checked the float level and its good. Has a pro-circuit fatty and the jetting specs matches the pro-circuit website. The bike has a new top end. Running 32:1. Coolant level doesn't drop (so no leaks there). Crank was rebuilt too. Here's what I think: Top end needs more time to break in. Crank seals need to be replaced. Power valve spring knob needs to be adjusted (don't know which way to turn it, there is a clockwise arrow on the knob but not sure it that will increase or decrease). Maybe I should run a hotter or colder spark plug?
  5. Hey I had an exhaust leak where my expansion chamber slips on the manifold on my 97 cr125. so I installed new studs and nuts and bought 2 new seals for the manifold as I pulled two off. I was wondering how many seals are actually supposed to be on the manifold before I put it back together? On manual diagram they show a seal but not how many. There were two on there when I pulled it apart (one on the bottom and one on top of that one)The bottom one is worn i have two new ones just incase and also bought versa Chem exhaust joint and crack sealer (high temp) to make sure nothing gets by ! Any help or suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks
  6. Hey I have owned dirt bikes for pretty much ever I have had a Kawi, Suzuki, Honda and a ktm On everyone of these bikes when going to change the air filter If I have ridden sand I will find a few grains. I know hondas are nutorious for shit air filter seals and before I had the cage modified it was way worse. My seals when checking the filter seem to be air tight when removing and looking at the seal where the grease was its clearly been sealed correct. The air boot to air box is completly sealed with no leaks My question are, Is it normal to get a few grains in here? Is it posible these grains sneak there way in when removing the filter? Is there any other ideas on how this is getting in? Thanks guys
  7. Hey guys, long time fan of the forum, but first time poster. I have a 2001 Yamaha YZ426F with what appears to be an aftermarket Keihin carburetor. The numbers stamped on the bowl are 5BE1 01MK02. I cannot figure out what "model" carb this is. It does not appear to be the factory carb due to the lack of a hot start. Does anyone know where I can find this information? I need a new gasket on the bowl, and it's been very frustrating dealing with my local bike shops. I attached a couple of pictures of the carb in question. Thanks in advance for any and all help! This site has been a great resource for many years. If I have posted this in the wrong section please let me know so I can correct it.
  8. Hello all, Thanks to Thumpertalk I dared to plunge into the deep and do a rebuild of the top-end of my 2012 YZ250 myself. 10hrs and still going strong. But the reason I did the rebuild (other than that the time has come), was that there was also another issue that I was hoping to fix. I'll walk you through the symptoms: Start up of the bike (cold) in cold or hot weather w choke. (PS: I think the problem is a little better in cold weather) Bike starts up in one kick if kicked correctly. The bike smokes, but normal amount to a 2stroke. After a 10 or so seconds, when I blip the throttle, ALOT of smoke comes from the exhaust (white smoke). It also doesn't ping but bogs (bwaaa) when I go on the throttle. Sometimes its so severe that it dies during the bog. When I start my ride on the track, the bike doesn't ping and I don't have much power + still excessive smoke. But when I hold the throttle WIDE OPEN for 10 or so seconds, then it starts to 'clear out' and begins to haul *ss. The smoke also disappears and the engine starts to ping again. The bike runs fine after that while its cleared out on the track. I thought this was a sign that I should change the top end (30hrs, novice) and clean the carburetor. What did I do: Completely clean and dissasembly the carburetors and jets. Change the piston, rings, gaskets,.... Replace spark plug. The problem seemed to be gone the first time that I started the bike after the rebuild (first kick yeahah!). But it quickly came back and is even identical to before the rebuild. Now I thought the cause is the following: Crankshaft seal leak at the clutch side. --> But I just checked my transmission fluid after 4-6hrs of riding and it's 650cm³ after the 750cm² I filled it with. That seems to be about normal consumption, no? Coolant leakage somewhere inside the combustion chamber --> Triple checked: not losing coolant. The following suspects: Float height Crankseal leakage Pilot jet wrong (I checked that the standard one is installed). I'm at a dead-end here. I don't have the friends with the knowledge to ask these questions to. But I'm laying my faith in the hands of thumpertalk :). If there is something I can do to test something for you guys, let met know. Kind regards, Dries This is the me, my bike and the issue (it got a bit worse over time :p). Yes I know I shouldn't be so hard on the throttle when I start it, but for one time its not bad and it was necessary to show the problem.
  9. Everytime I start my XT125X it revs into space and I have checked for air leaks and replaced the boot that goes from the carb to the engine. I went to go check for an air leak on the left crank seal and there was a pool of oil in the stator cover, is that normal or it it the seal allowing oil into the cover? When I stand the bike up oil trickles out but I’m not sure if that’s the left over oil at the back of the stator cover. Please help!!!!
  10. Attempting to change the fork seals due to a leak in one fork on my 1984 Honda XR500R with Showa mg3-771 forks. My dust seals don't look anything like the youtube videos, photos, forums that I have researched. Also researched this specific fork and found nothing. Also I can only find information about models relatively close to my bike(XR350, XR400, XR600), but not exact. My dust seals seem to be permanently attached to the inside of the fork tube, probably some adhesive and has a foam ring underneath it that is deteriorating, hence the leak. Anyone have any ideas how to change the fork seals without removing the dust seal? Also noticed that the foam ring should be under the white plastic washer, not on top of, when compared to my other fork tube that is not leaking. Left Fork: Leaking, foam ring on top of white plastic washer Lef Right Fork: Not leaking, foam ring under white plastic washer
  11. Bike is a 1999 Suzuki RM125. I had the crankshaft rebuilt, so during the install I had put in new crank bearings, new crank seals, new case gasket, new reeds, and a new top end. I also cleaned the carb and put in the recommended jets for my exhaust and elevation/temperature. I run 32:1 fuel mix. I also put in a new primary gear, which is what contacts the oil seal. I put axle grease into the seal before inserting the primary gear. The bike smokes more than it should, and I'm pretty sure the cause is that transmission oil is leaking into the crankshaft area and eventually getting into the cylinder. I would top off the oil and check the level with the little bolt on the side of the clutch cover. After a while of riding I would take the bolt out and I would have to tip the bike quite a bit for anything to come out. I don't understand why it could leak. I also topped off the coolant, and the level stayed the same, so that's not leaking. Do you think its still getting in through the seal? If not, where could it get in from? There was quite a discussion as to the orientation of the seal itself here, but since that post I have installed a new seal with spring side out (which is different than most bikes, but I think that's what the manual says).
  12. I have an 06 ktm with a a counter shaft leak problem. Over the past year I’ve had my counter shaft seal changed three times with the third time being a week ago. 2 weeks ago I thought my seal had went after coming back to oil leaking out of the sprocket. Ive been trouble shooting it leaking for a while and reachanged the seal, o ring, seal drive, and snap ring and bought a thicker sprocket because I knew that can sometimes be a problem. After two rides with absolutely no oil leaked and a dry sprocket I left it the garage and came back to a puddle of oil! I changed the seal so many times and tried everything at this point. Any ideas why it keeps leaking?!
  13. Has anyone rebuilt the starter motor on a 2016 2T? My bearing is shot and seal is leaking and brushes are worn right down to the leads. I cant find a rebuild kit for it. Bearing is easy 6002Z, Seal i will have to source as the stock didnt have a number. Not to hard to find. The tricky part is the brushes, i think i have found them. The 2017 Honda CRF450RX uses the same brand of starter and the brushes look the same. Anyone else find this to be true? https://www.servicehonda.com/oemparts/a/hon/57f29b3287a86606ec231ea2/starting-motor
  14. So i recently wrapped part of the pipe on my ktm exc 450 quad were it was close to my boot, but anyways. i know that it can be a problem if you let water sit in the wrap because it can cause excessive rust in the pipe so i figured if i just warm it up after i get it wet or wash it the water will evaporate, but i was wondering what a good silicone seal would be to spray on it. In the directions it says to use aerosol spray on silicone but i didn't know if somebody had a certain brand or type they found works good to keep out water. (yes ik i am asking about a quad in dirt bike discussion, i figured there might be more relatable answers here) Thank you guys!!
  15. My new-to-me 2006 300 XCW is smoking more than it probably should. It's got a fresh top end with gaskets (<10 hours), SmartCarb set to factory specs, new reeds, new muffler packing and generally in good repair. I'm starting to think it's my main crank seal. To test my theory I put in 700ml of fresh oil before a trail ride this past weekend, clocked about 2.5 riding hours then drained and remeasured. I was short maybe 50-75ml. That doesn't seem like enough oil to cause excessive smoking to me. I figure 50ml of oil could be hanging around in the clutch pack. Anyhow, for those of you who have had this problem, how much oil consumption did you have from gearbox side?
  16. My 2017 350xcf AER forks got harsh and I noticed that I was using only about half of the travel. My pressure at the valve dropped from 128 to 101 and when I pulled the left fork bleeder, about 10 seconds of air hissed out. I figure it is my inner and outer cartridge seals...shown at minute 2:03 of the video below. It's been surprisingly hard to find these seals. Can anyone verify if these are the correct replacement parts? Thanks! one of two: http://www.suspensiondirect.com/shop/wfaps-a48t two of two: http://www.suspensiondirect.com/shop/wfcs12-a48
  17. Hey there, I recently bought a 1979 Suzuki PE250 in pretty good condition for its age I'd say.However the fork seals are leaking and after struggling for a few days to get the fork caps open(they were seized) I have now come to a new problem. The Dust seal Holder seems to be stuck, in the shop manual it mentions some sort of special tool for removing the fork seal but I'm not sure what exactly it would do.The thing seems like it should just unscrew. I've tried whacking it with a screw driver and a hammer and I had some minor progress but its painfully slow so I was wondering if any of you vintage motorcycle wizards would be able to enlighten me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.👍
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