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Found 18 results

  1. I bought my first dirtbike, a 2009 kx250f last season for around $2k. The third time I went riding I let a buddy ride it for a few minutes and it seemingly out of nowhere died and seized up. I just recently took it to a shop and they told me that the piston welded itself to the crankcase. They quoted me around $3500 to completely rebuild with the parts list attached. Is it even worth doing at this point? Or would I be better served buying another bike. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but haven't worked on dirtbikes before so I am unsure whether this is something I could tackle in my garage, also the price of parts is still more than I paid for the bike.
  2. Hello there, today I just finished putting my bike together for the second time now after it keeps seizing up I originally pulled it apart because the shift drum cracked and transmission was damaged the bike ran fine before I pulled it down it never missed a beat. I went to put it back together after I rebuild the transmission and put new crank barings in when I went to start it, it just wanted to seize up I thought this might have been the Piston because it seemed a bit old at 168 hours so I got a new one put it all back together same issues it idels fine but when you go to accelerate at wants to seize up, then it gets hard to kick. no it's not the timming like 10 million people have said it's some weird bottom end issue could be the crank or rod even tho they were perfectly fine before it was pulled down. when it seizes up you just put it in gear and pull it back and it's fine again so confused on wtf is happening please help. cheers blake
  3. Hey all! Ive seen a few posts relating to my issues but none very detailed and many dont have solutions as they neglected to update the post. I have a 2008 yz450f that keeps seizing on me. The first time it happened I was just cruising around 40mph and bike just turned off like a switch and locked the rear wheel no bad noises at all just off outta nowhere. I freed it up by rocking it back and forth in gear and was able to get it started again for about 10secs before it seized again. Loaded the bike got it home. All my valves are still in spec timing chain didnt jump its still all in time I checked my auto decomp as others were saying that solved their similar issue and I cant find anything wrong with it. Oil when I drained it looked fine too. So I tried filling it back up with oil and starting it again had to adjust the fuel screw some but got it to idle just fine let it warm up for a minute or two and decided to take it around the block made it maybe 1/4mile before it seized again. I can always get it freed back up and it will still idle but the second I ride it seizes? Ive heard a few people say they think it might be crank bearing. I am just hesitant as Ive never gone into a bottom end before. If anyone has any thoughts on possible issues all help is appreciated I just wanna find the problem just thinking itll be hard since I dont think anything catastrophic and obvious is broken or it would have made noise when its seized the multiple times or had metal in the oil and since it still starts and idles first or second kick Im lost but afraid to ride it since I know itll just seize immediately and potentially cause more problems. Thanks in advance to anyone who answers my plea!
  4. Bought the bike this summer and I blew up. Has the top end rebuilt and it blew up 3 days ago with 15 hours on new top end. The bike is timed right has oil has gas Has coolant it will go through the gear and goes to neutral but the kickstart is locked up. The timing chain has tension and is timed right but the camshaft bearing snapped and got all in the valves What you thing is wrong
  5. Ideas of how to get stuck piston out of cylinder? Engine is out of bike. 2000 yz250 2 stroke. Have put oil on top of piston it does leak down and out. Lightly tappend on top of piston with wood and hammer while pulling up on head. Got bolts off, rod looks good and moves well from lifting and putting down block. Can't get piston to budge. Shavings and nice metal on top of piston. Seems tight at one side and not as much on other. Scrapes on cylinder wall. It's about halfway in cylinder. Thanks
  6. Ok so ill keep it short and sweet. I had an issue with a kx250 engine locking up. I checked before i went to splitting the case. Once i did i found the culprit to be the top input gear wheel thats supposed to spin on the shaft. It was completely seized and ive tried everything i can to get it off to no avail. Is their any way to get this gear off or would i have to cut it off?
  7. My friend recently got his chain adjuster bolt that threads into the swingarm stuck because the previous owner put loctite or something on it and the bolt broke and is almost but not completely flush with the swingarm. he tried drilling it out and it didn't work, tried an easy out and the easy broke and is stuck inside the bolt now. Any tips to avoid buying a whole new swingarm?
  8. I am thinking of buying a dual sport for commutes/trail riding and I have 2 models in mind but not sure which one would be better. Either a 2009 Yamaha WR 125R with 49,000km or 1990 Yamaha DT 125R with 63,000km (although engine rebuild last year). I can't decide if I want 4 stroke or 2 stroke. I'm aware that 2 stroke are much cheaper and simpler to rebuild, but the reliability of the wr 4 stroke engine seems very good. It also has EFI vs a carburator on the DT. I'm quite worried about engine seizing on the 2 stroke. Which one should I get?
  9. I’m looking at an ‘01 kdx200 for sale. The seller rebuilt the bottom and top end about 5 hours ago. He claims he was racing another bike when he held it full throttle for too long and seized the piston. It locked up only for a couple seconds, and it now rotates freely, albeit with low compression. He was able to get it to run for a little bit as well. I have no qualms over putting a new top end on it. My concern lies with the bottom end. I understand the bottom end on these bikes is quite solid, but how bad of a shape can the bottom end be in if the bike only locked up for a bit and will now run? It’s still a low hour crank. Would there be any way to check this without measuring the play in the rod? Thanks!
  10. I have a 2012 YZ450 and i did a much needed deep cleaning with a pressure washer and it started fine and ran i put it in the garage and started to polish it for pictures and cleaned and oiled the air filter and let it sit over night like usual and then the next morning i changed the oil and rode it up and down my alley way to warm it up and get it circulated and as i came back to my garage to talk to my neighbor i shut it off while i was moving with the clutch in and as it shut off i heard a odd noise and didn't think too much about it at the time and when i went to start it again,i had found out that my kick starter was not going past half way and the top half had no compression and i tried putting it in gear and moving it but all i got was some metallic noises from the inside of the cylinder and so i put it back in my garage and took the clutch and clutch basket out and there didn't seem to be anything wrong on that side so i took the magneto cover off and removed my flywheel and made sure the key was there and nothing was abnormal i put the flywheel back on and was torquing it down and i had the rear wheel locked up and it would still spin and the flywheel would turn with force and the timing chain would move a link and make a crack/ metallic noise,not sure what is was but i got the flywheel torqued and somehow the crank and everything was moving and i could kick it normally but still not even trying to start. i proceed to take the plug out and made sure it got spark and it did, the plug was a little darker black then normal and it was bone dry so i put it back in and tried to start it,still no luck..So i have come to you guys in need of some help or advice.Any help is much appreciated -TE
  11. Hello all, first post here. First time rider too. Just bought this 98 YZ400f. Not the proudest owner at the moment but we’ll see. Got it from a friend for $700 (way to much for a possibly blown bike now I realize) . Oh well. Issue is the Kickstart won’t cycle through. Even previous owner, an avid rider, who owned the bike when it was running, couldn’t kick it through. So I’m thinking it’s bad but how bad is the question . Seized piston, seized crankshaft, or Kickstarter axles and gears that whole mechanism broken?. Anybody have the proper steps in diagnosis and troubleshooting this . I saw an thread that said the kickstart comes off and you can try to rotate the crankshaft and if it moves it could be something else. Just starting to dive into this issue. Kinda want to fix this thing, might just buy a whole new engine, might try to save this one. Kinda going the cheapest /easy route if possible . Found a bottom end on eBay for 300. But I’d like to TS this engine first to see if it’s something simple . Would really appreciate the help guys!! Peace
  12. So i bought a 2010 husqvarna wr300 from a terrible owner, after doing a complete bottom end overhaul, was going to grease the swing arm bearings also then i discovered the bearings where in terrible condition rusted and the needles just fell right out. Honestly looked like they've never been greased. any tips on how to remove them? I've tried my bearing puller and a torch no luck and the threaded rod and socket method the lips of the bearing are broken and so small the socket keeps slipping out and couldn't get it budge. i have a press but i used it to get bearings out of SWINGARM, CUSHION RELAY it worked for one of the holes and the second hole the socket underneath i used to "catch the bearing" just straight up crushed into the aluminum housing and had to get a whole new one at least it came with all the bearing installed already... so I'm really trying to avoid messing up the swing arm using that. was thinking of using a dremel to slightly cut the bearing and pry it out anyonee have any suggestions?
  13. Bike is up-jetted to correct jetting, air filter is fairly clean, bike has only got 1200 miles since its most recent top end rebuild recommended is every 6000 miles on this 125 2 stroke road bike, top end was done at garage, always warmed up and ridden nicely. seems to have deep to severe scratches on the piston and cylinder bit, seems to be where the exhaust port is and on that general side. could do with some help on understanding the possible issue so i can stop it from happening again.
  14. Yesterday I did a service like normal, in my 2015 WR250F. (Measured and checked oil quantity). Loaded up, went out the the trails. And about 5 kilometres in I felt a slight “die” like there was no fuel? But only for a second and I stoped, turned around to head back knowing that wasn’t normal. Then going cautiously back to the car about 2 kilometres on the way back it locked up and stalled. I grabbed the clutch in time. It continued to roll, I then tried to bump start it in second whilst still rolling and nothing. So I stopped, and pulled the kick start out and could not get it to budge. I was lucky it was all down hill to the car from here so I jumped on, found neutral and coasted down back to the car. im automatically thinking it’s seized and I’ll have to rebuild it, but wanting information? Or ideas? Or things I should try first?
  15. Let me preface by saying this bike has been nothing but a headache since I bought it, although I absolutely love KTM. I was riding yesterday and my bike seized up completely. I rebuilt the top end about three months ago but got home and started tearing it apart and found this.....I'm at a complete loss as to what happened as well as what to do next. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  16. hey guys, I did a little maintenance on the bike today and now it won't move. I replaced the counter shaft seal, performed a valve adjustment, replaced the air filter and replaced the rear brakes. After this I took it for a very short ride and about one minute in I heard a clunk and the bike died while in first gear clutch pulled. I tried starting it again while in first gear and clutch pulled in, bike ran but releasing the clutch the bike would barely move forward even with the clutch lever 95 percent released. The bike rolls perfectly smooth when in neutral and runs perfect when in neutral. With the engine off and the bike in first gear, it feels like the clutch isn't disengaging. Bike is almost impossible to move forward or backward like its in gear and the clutch isn't pulled. Ive adjusted the cables as far as they will go with no luck. Im wondering if any of the work I did could have caused this?
  17. Hey there, I recently bought a 1979 Suzuki PE250 in pretty good condition for its age I'd say.However the fork seals are leaking and after struggling for a few days to get the fork caps open(they were seized) I have now come to a new problem. The Dust seal Holder seems to be stuck, in the shop manual it mentions some sort of special tool for removing the fork seal but I'm not sure what exactly it would do.The thing seems like it should just unscrew. I've tried whacking it with a screw driver and a hammer and I had some minor progress but its painfully slow so I was wondering if any of you vintage motorcycle wizards would be able to enlighten me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.👍
  18. If youre building a water cooled bike, dont get "gpi" radiators off ebay or any aftermarket radiator. They "work too good" and cool the bike waaay too much and dont allow it to get to operating temp. I rode my newly built 01 cr250 with a couple of hours on it for 45 minutes and it still wasnt even hot when i checked it after it blew. The forged wiseco piston with a few hours on it was melted through. The radiator was cold and the anti freeze was cold. The cylinder was warm but not even too hot to touch as it should be. Didnt even know this can happen untill it happened to me. If you dont want your bike to have a cold seizure, stick with OEM radiators.
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