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Found 9 results

  1. Hey guys, we can really use some know-how on this issue, thank you in advance for any help you can provide! We've been struggling for a few weeks with a kickstart issue with a 2013 KX250F. My son purchased the bike grenaded; broken valves, damaged head, bad piston and cylinder (piston jammed sideways in cylinder), bad crank and rod, bad bearings, and all the other issues that go along with these. We sent the head to Millennium for repair and we also had them install Kibblewhite black diamond valves and springs. We installed a new crank, crank bearings, a few other bad bearings, new cam chain, Cylinder Works cylinder, Vertex piston, gaskets, and reworked head. We shimmed the valves and checked them a few times with the new springs - we ended up make a small change in one of the exhaust shims and they are all now within factory spec - 0.10-0.15mm intake and 0.17-0.22mm exhaust. The bike did sit for over a year with fuel in it, but we emptied it and put in rec gas (90 octane without ethanol) along with seafoam and some injector cleaner. We have just over 60 pounds of compression when we tested it. With all that said, we can not get the bike to kick start. We can kick it until our leg falls off and she won't start. Now, if we push it and it turns over once or twice and doesn't start then we are able to kick start it. If we spray starting fluid in the throttle body it will also kick start. We tested the capacitor and it seems to check out. We're not sure if it could be an issue with the fuel pump, although once it's running it runs great. We push started it up until now and we've run it on a trail system for a few hours without any issue. The fuel injection works great without any hesitation so it seems that the injectors and fuel pump are good. Once we shut it off it will kick start within a few minutes just like it should. If it cools down for about 15 minutes then it won't kick start again. When we pulled the tank off we did notice that the gas leaks out of the fuel pump and never stops leaking out. When we apply 12 volts to the fuel pump in testing it sprays fuel quite well. As I said before, once started it runs great and everything works as it should. We have a little over 2 hours on it and she's still running strong. We are out of ideas as to what the issue could be and any help here would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for the great community! Rich and Josh
  2. So, I purchased a clean 2012 kx250f with 49.6 hours on it. Bike starts first kick and runs and idles great. It revs out and shifts through all the gears and has plenty of power. This weekend I took it down to the frame and went through the whole bike for a rebuild for peace of mind. I decided to check the valve clearance before I threw it back together, and got some weird measurements. The exhaust clearance was at .28mm on both lobes. Is there any reason that someone would set the exhaust clearance "loose" and be .06mm above the spec in the manual? My intake clearance is in spec, one at .11mm, the other at .15mm. I am bringing the .11mm up to match the .15mm at the upper end of the spec. I also plan to bring the the exhaust back down into spec, but want to make sure i'm not gonna mess something up if this was done intentionally. I know the gap tightens as the valves stretch over time, so I don't see why the gap would be above the specification. This is my first Kawi KX250F, so the valve train sounded loud in my opinion. I owned a Kawi ZX6R. This also had a loud valve train, but that was typical for this bike. It had a self adjusting cam chain tensioner, so the valves would get a little loud before it self adjusted. Let me know what you guys think before I throw the bike back together. Thanks!
  3. hey everyone, new to forum, i have some questions about setting up my forks. my bike is a 2006 crf250r, im 65kg 175cm, i mostly ride enduro, the suspension has stock springs 0.45kg/mm. so my question is what to do to soften the forks? for my weight the bike's suspension feels waaay to stiff, i got the clickers on full soft both rebound and compression. i just opened the forks to change the oil. should i change the mid/base valve stacks? if yes which shims should i remove? should i aim in getting more float by removing some shims from midvalve? or should i go for softer springs maybe? my shims stacks: base valve: 11 30mmx0.10mm 1 30x0.10 3 30x0.10 1 25x0.10 1 29x0.10 1 28x0.10 1 27x0.10 1 26x0.10 1 25x0.10 1 24x0.10 1 23x0.10 1 22x0.10 1 21x0.10 1 20x0.10 1 19x0.10 1 18x0.10 SPACER 30,5mmx2mm 1 16x0.20 1 11x0.20 1 12x0.10 1 13x0.10 1 14x0.10 1 15x0.10 10 16x0.10 MID VALVE REBOUND: 3 16mmx0.30mm 1 11x0.20 1 12x0.10 1 13x0.10 1 14x0.10 1 15x0.10 1 16x0.10 1 12x0.10 1 18x0.10 2 20x0.10 COMPRESSION FLOAT=0,35mm COMPRESSION: 6 20mmX0.10mm 4 17X0.10 3 10x0.20 Thanks a lot in advise! 🙂
  4. So I have a 2006 crf250x I rebuilt the engine myself, had a maintenance shop trouble shoot it to see if i did it right or if i did something wrong and they said everything was perfect. So now i just rebuilt the top end and had the maintenance shop perform a leak down test to check if i resurfaced my head correctly and if i had good compression. Results came back to me saying that yes indeed i have no leaks and i have good compression... They also said my exhaust valve clearance was good but my intake had 0 clearance, they quoted me for $250 to have them do it so i instead just took it home and did it myself the bike reads (.003"in) to large from the spec clearance on the left intake and my right intake reads in between the specified clearance (.005"-.001"in)0.12-.03mm) my question is and ive already tired, will it not start with one valve having too large of a clearance? Yes its getting fuel yes it has compression(or at least its capable of sealing compression), yes it has spark and yes the timing it 100% correct.
  5. I have factory connection forks and the bike’s previous owner was 40 or more pounds heavier and round motocross. My goal is to get into C class hare scrambles by fall but if not next year of course. I weigh 155. Not to familiar with suspension but i can work on my bike. I had called factory connection and to have the bike revalved it was gonna run me 1200. I definitely feel like i can figure it out with some advice and tips. Then i'll know how to do it on my bike and friends bikes when needed. I appreciate the help guys.
  6. Hey guys! I'm currently rebuilding my 04 kx250f and am getting towards the end! Unfortunately, when I was about to put the valve shims back they dropped onto the table and I'm not sure where they were originally now... I know it's a rookie mistake but I didn't write down which shim was with which bucket.. Is there a way to at least somewhat guess? The dimensions are 2.94, 2.95, 2.90, and 2.54. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!
  7. Hey riders! I have a little problem on my bike.. when I try to adjust my right side exhaust valve it looks like I can get any feeler gauge down there..its kinda tricky to get down there and it feels like maybe I am compressing the valve spring down because it gets kinda hard to get it in there but it still goes without pushing like crazy.. I left it to where it seemed harder to slide it in and the bike runs fine but I’d like to have some other opinion just to be sure! All three other valves were easy to adjust its just that one!
  8. I have recently bought a non running bike that was is need of a valve adjustment. I did the adjustment and the intake side was perfect but the exhaust side was still too tight, I then went to a smaller sized shim on the exhaust valves and it is still too tight. The shim is flush if not under the level of the black valve spring retainer. Should I go another size smaller shim or does this mean I need some new valves? Any thoughts insights or opinions are appreciated.
  9. So I have a 1982 Honda xr200r that was running. Long story short, it was ran without oil and while riding, it went dead. Tore it down rebuilt it. With new OEM piston, rings, and cam. I've gotten it back in time. But here is where my problem is. The intake valve is not seating all the way and it's causing air to come back out of the intake. The cam lobes are down at TDC. Checked the valve/ tappet clearance. I've looked at prices for new valves. My wallet isn't my friend right now, but before I spend the money on new ones. I want to know if you can get valve shims to fit. Because there is not a push rod on these motors like a lawnmower I can't just use the same kind of valve cap type shim.. I don't know if that is the correct name for it but I'm sure you get the point. So the question is, do they make shims that work with the xr200r motors? Anyone know of another thing I've over looked? I feel like I've pulled a stupid and over looked something.
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