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Found 19 results

  1. Whats up guys So I've done a stupid amount of searching today just to have no luck at all. I don't know if I am just blind or if I'm actually not crazy, but I have been trying to find a graphics kit to fit my specific bike for at least a week. I am just stumped. So I bought my bike with the seller telling me it was a EXC. When in all actuality it is a 06 XC (I believe). It doesn't have the same tank design as the EXC and it also states "XC" right in front of the number plate (I know I'm an idiot but I also didn't have much knowledge of the models). I have no problem what so ever finding graphics kits for the same year bike, just none that are made to my bikes body design. Does anyone know of different years or models that have the same body style? I can have a kit custom made, but that just seems like such a waste when I feel as if there has got to be pre-made kits already available. I keep seeing kits like this: http://www.ktmworld.com/product/54808190300.html Which is a beautiful design to the graphics, but the picture that is shown is a EXC model. The XC model looks as though it has more space to cover. I've attached pictures of both the 2006 models. The XC and EXC and you can tell the XC has a lot more plastic to cover and different angles. Has anyone ever run into this problem? Does the graphics kit come ready to fit the XC and need to be cut or "modded" to fit the EXC? Any help would be appreciated!!!
  2. I'm getting my bike ready to run a big chunk of the Oregon Backcountry Discovery Route (OBDR) this summer so I'm going through it adding things I think will help bulletproof the bike and maybe keep me from having "issues" when I'm 100 miles from nowhere in the middle of the desert in Eastern Oregon. What I hate is that since these products are made for such a niche market the prices are just ridiculous. So in that vein, here's another $89 worth of aluminum...sigh... One thing I've noticed online is that there is sometimes a lack of good clear pictures or videos on specific parts for the DR-Z, so I try to rectify that with my videos. (aka: I use a tripod as much as possible...lol...)
  3. Hi everyone, I am curently building my bike for light adventure riding. I am making a contraption that I would like to call a rally fairing. I am showing you what I have made so far. For the build; - oversize GPI racing radiators - oversize gaz tank - fuel pump - swapping the speedometer by a vapor - custom made bracket for fairing - fiberglass fairing/windsheild I have not adressed the wide ratio issue since I just completely rebuild the engine last winter. I got a 39 teeth sproket for highway speed. I have no experience whatsoever with fiberglass, any input would be apreciated. Thanks for the interest.
  4. when i ride my drz400sm it feels like im bouncing i went and got my wheel balanced then remounted it and it still bounces played with the rebound adjustment then tried it again and nothing again now im out of ideas please help lol thanks
  5. This has been an ongoing issue, as I am sure some of you are beginning to notice.. sorry for the somewhat repetitive posts in advance. My valves were out of spec, I was only getting 85-90 PSI of compression. I shimmed my valves to the correct clearance, and I got the compression up to 150 psi. Now after riding my bike for 15-20 minutes, it will start doing the same thing it did before - it will idle super low and eventually bog out. I had the idle adjustment turned up very high, when I gave it a little throttle the idle would kick up for a couple seconds, then it would settle back down to extremely low and bog out. To me this sounds like something with the idle air circ, or jetting. Could something with the valves cause this as well? Want to get a second opinion before I send the head in for the $500 rebuild and still have the same issue. Thank you all again!
  6. Hey Everyone, I received a new price sheet from Alta and wanted to give you a quick update. The Redshift has proven to be a very competitive model in 2017. But, the major factor holding many consumers back is the price. Alta has adopted a very aggressive pricing structure In an effort to put the Electric platform within reach of more riders.... So, without further ado: 2018 Alta MX $10,495 (reduced from $14,995) 2018 Alta EX $12,995 (reduced from $15,495) 2018 Alta SM $13,495 (reduced from $15,495) All offroad models (EX and MX) will require a charger, you will two options for this: Base (currently shipping with the Alta MX and EX) $499 Upgraded (will have some additional features) $799 All SM models will continue to feature onboard charging and do not require a separate charger purchase. Alta has also given some incentives for 2017 models as well (these prices may vary depending on dealer) here is what we have available: 2017 Alta Redshift MX (Demo with 66 hours) $9,999 (includes charger) 2017 Alta Redshift MX (brand new) $10,495 (includes charger) To give you an idea of how competitive these prices are, the 2018 KTM Freeride E-XC will likely retail for over $13K! The Alta Redshift, in almost every way, is a superior motorcycle for a lot less money! I will do my best to keep you updated on any changes for 2018 as soon as they become available. In the meantime, please feel free to contact me if you have any questions about the Redshift lineup or would like to schedule a private demo. Scott Elite Motorsports scott@elitektm.com 970-461-1022
  7. Hey Everyone, We just got word that the Alta Motors Redshift SM will officially begin shipping this week! Give us a call if you would like to get one of these amazing new motorcycles! Make sure you call your dealer (or us if you choose) to make sure they have one coming for you if you put a deposit down on the Alta Website. The deposits are handled by the Alta Motors dealer network, I would recommend being proactive in contacting your dealer if they have not already contacted you first. Here is a video of Andy DiBrino riding the Alta Motors Redshift SM on the cart track: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLyCowUMOCE&t=5s Feel free to contact me anytime if you have any questions. Elite Motorsports 970-461-1022 scott@elitektm.com
  8. I bought a 2018 DRZ 400SM last month off the floor. I have always wanted this bike and saw it as I walked by to the parts counter. I left the store then turned around and walked back in and bought it! A little about myself, I have ridden dirtbikes and ATV's my entire life. I also worked at a bigger shop as a "C Tech" for 2 years and I work on all my own stuff. I instantly took the new DRZ home and started to order parts, Fender eliminator kit with smoke tail light and integrated turn signals, front flush signals, the "angel eyes" head lights off amazon and took off the warning stickers/ reflectors. The bike didn't have enough power for me and I could tell it was running fairly lean at the top end. With 200 miles and its first oil change I decided to buy a full Yoshimura RS-2 carbon fiber, JD jets and do the 3x3 (ended up doing 3"x 3.5" to make it centered). After installing the carb I noticed the filter side boot has what appears to be chunks missing where it attaches to carb. At first I was thinking from moving the carb back and forth working it out maybe it caught the edges and sliced pieces off. But those boots in my experience are pretty tuff and made with good material. I have rejetted dirt bikes and such a lot and never seen a boot have what looks like damage like that from taking carb on and off. I started to worry about pieces inside the intake and possibly being forced into the top end. So thought I would search around and see if the boot is just like that. I am probably going to take the carb back off and make sure but would like some input. Another aspect is that I didn't see any of the pieces outside the carb or in the area where I was working. So could all pieces have went into the intake and none fallen on ground? doesn't seem like that's possible. I will attach some photos, the one of bike is before exhaust, still waiting for it to arrive. Thanks fellas!
  9. Okay its not a new subject Im sure. But I want to release the power from this old 2005 Japanese spec Xr400 Motard. Where I live in the world its hard to get a dirt bike on the road and there is next to no XR's to choose from. The Motard came up for the right price and its in great condition. So I have decided to make the best of what I can with it. I need to find out if I can swap parts from the R version on to the SM version. From the info I have read the SM has smaller valves and lower compression. Will R barrel and head be the right direction to go? Stage 1 or 2 cam ? Pumper carbs and opening the air box is a no brainer I assume. And of course the exhaust will need replacing to match the the R exhaust port. Please if you know about the R or the SM chime in and give me some advice.
  10. Hello all! I have everything setup and ready to go. I did the S to SM swingarm conversion, and I was lucky enough to have a friend that gave me 2 of the 50 stunt dual piston calipers for free off his bike after he sold it. All I need now is the bracket, a master, and a line, but this is where I want to be sure I make a good choice. I was thinking about going with the Dominator clutch cap on top of the brembo master cylinder.. But I am not sure how much adjustment there is on that. What would you guys recommend for the a stunt clutch/master setup? I do have the short impaktech clutch lever on currently, is there a good master that will fit with my clutch? All input is appreciated! Even trolling for a good laugh. lmao Thanks everyone!
  11. Recently acquired a new to me 2006 low mileage SM and other than the Kenda K671 ST Cruiser 140/70 rear tire (and the Outlaw petcock rebuild kit I just installed,) it seems to be stock. At the most performance wise it might see a pipe & 3x3 w jetting kit in the future. I think I have read most of the SM tire threads using search posted here from 2006 to 2014, haven't found any newer, so I thought I would bring up the issue. While my location has me near awesome mountain twisties, and some of that will definitely happen, but the vast majority of riding will be commuting and two lane back road day trips to AL, SC, NC & TN. I am also 59 yo and don't like contributing to the state/county/muni governments through their law enforcement collection agency's. I am leaning toward the Pirelli Angel GT tires (sport touring) w/ rear being 150/70-17 as they should last a very, very long time on such a light bike, and work well in the summer thunderstorms I am sure to encounter. Thoughts? Do you prefer finding a 140/70 to stay stock on rear, or find 150/60 and 150/70 to be either better or acceptable? Is the kenda 671 worth keeping on the rear until its worn? Still has the dunlop 208 on the front, and while its not worn out, its far beyond its use by date any further, given its age. I have read previously many preferring Michelin pilot road and pilot power 2ctcombos (soft sport on front and harder sport touring on rear) Is that still the hot ticket? (or Power RS / Road 2/3/4/5) Between my cr250r and wr250r I have off road covered, so the SM at worst might see gravel or a forest service road on the rare occasion. Hope to put lots of state 2 lane highway miles on it, and as little as possible 4 lane I-xx miles. I only THOUGHT my Yamaha wr250r stock seat was uncomfortable... until I started putting miles on the SM. Sheesh. What have ya'll done? seat concepts, fisher, sargent? Thanks for any input you can contribute.
  12. Alright TT Gentlemen.. I appreciate any and all who have commented on my posts, without TT and the knowledgeable people in it, things would have taken me much longer. Anyway, I was shimming my valves the other day,before I did it when I checked the clearance.. There was none. I couldnt fit my smallest feeler gauge between any of the valves and the bucket. both on intake and both on exhaust would not fit. I checked my compression before I did this, and it was only at 60/70 PSI which I know is far too low. Before I tear into the engine, I want to get everything I need.. so if A new piston is in store then so be it.. But would valves that have far too little clearance at TDC cause low compression when cranked? Thanks again guys! - Brad
  13. I bought my DRZ new in April and have since accumulated 1,000 miles and use it to commute to work (I live 5 city miles away). I was starting to remove the air filter to begin the 3x3 mod and the filter was sticky and smelt like gas. I did some digging around the forum and found out there could be two reasons for this. The petcock is leaky or I left my carb on Prime for some time and the gas flowed backwards. I'm pretty sure it's the second one as I remember one occasion where I left it on Prime for a few hours (my first carbureted anything). I currently have a cup under the petcock and will see if anything leaks out of it, but I am doubtful that is the problem. So I'm looking for some advice on what to do now. I've changed the oil twice already, so it's only been 500 miles or so since the last change, so any gas in the oil is since then. And the oil just faintly smells like gas. It took a few attempts to smell anything like gas. Should I just change the oil, call it good, not do the 3x3 rejet and use the warranty if needed? Or could this be something much bigger and I should go back to the dealer?
  14. So I have a 2015 drz400s. I have finally had the money to start doing thing I want to the bike. (Exhaust,jetting,hand guards and some other wonderful stuff.) I have noticed that I really ride street about 95% of the time. Obviously having 17'' rims will make for alot better time on the street than the stock s rims. Im quite new to bikes so what is a must when switching from stock s rims to sm rims? The only obvious parts to me are rims and tires. Any opinions?
  15. Hello there, In about a week, I'm gonna buy myself a DRZ 400 SM 2005 model with about 10 000 miles (16 000 km ) on it, and i was woundering if any one could help me with pointers i could have when i check the bike, like common faults or similar stuff to look out for when test riding etc etc. It's gonna be my first bike, so all tips are appriciated!
  16. New here, purchased my 2016 Suzuki DR-Z400sm in February and am having a blast on it... Like 1200 miles by me already..... Anybody in the area here? Will be hauling up to Louisville, KY this Sunday (4/29/18) and we are looking for more people to ride with. SM friendly trail and street riding will be done. I'm new to the bike world and am looking for more people to start riding with in the area as not many people I know have bikes like this. It would be awesome to get a handful of people together to go riding, but me and the guy I am riding with are both new and don't know many people to ask!
  17. hey guys i chucked a set of SM wheels onto my 04, 400e the other day and i noticed my speedo is out by about 10-15 KM. is there a way to fix this with the stock speedo drive or will i need one for a SM model? cheers!
  18. Going to look at a 560 SMR this weekend. I want to convert it to offload use. Who's ready for a easy conversion. I would like to do a complete front end swap and swap wheels. The 560 currently has 17" Excels, brand new Dunlops, Beringer brakes. Everything looks super clean. Let me know what you have and make an offer.
  19. Hi all, I recently acquired this DRZ from a buddy who had recently installed a 470 bore and stroke kit. Besides the 3x3 air filter and full delkevic exhaust (holy loud) the carb and cams are stock besides jetting (unknown sizes). Me being me, I got into researching the FCR carbs after hearing about them and got my hands in a brand new FCR MX 41 from the netherlands. It's got TPS and hot start. I ordered the 3d printed carb adapter for the non removable bell and an OEM drz400e intake boot. I asked the seller about how it's jetted right now and this was his response: Pilot- 55 Main- 180 Starter- 85 Main air- 200 Pilot air- 100 Then this...leak/needle 0,0 / OBDVR @ 5/7 Not sure what that all means. Could use some direction on where to go with the jetting. Would like to order any other necessary parts before the carb shows up next week. Thanks in advance.
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