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Found 13 results

  1. I am trying to diagnose some issues I am having with my 1999 Suzuki RM125. Symptoms include: Low power, the bottom end seems OK, but there is no real increase at all. The engine revs up, but the bike doesn't really accelerate with a punch like my 1997 CR125R (not bogging though). Smoke seems a lot thicker than my CR. There is a pinging sound from the exhaust, I've heard that might be an air leak caused by a bad magneto-side crank seal. Sometimes when riding the bike will rev up on its own. Black spooge sometimes comes out of the tailpipe. Some more info on the bike: I checked the float level and its good. Has a pro-circuit fatty and the jetting specs matches the pro-circuit website. The bike has a new top end. Running 32:1. Coolant level doesn't drop (so no leaks there). Crank was rebuilt too. Here's what I think: Top end needs more time to break in. Crank seals need to be replaced. Power valve spring knob needs to be adjusted (don't know which way to turn it, there is a clockwise arrow on the knob but not sure it that will increase or decrease). Maybe I should run a hotter or colder spark plug?
  2. Just bought a used 2017 Husqvarna FC450. It's my 1st EFI bike so I'm hoping someone can help me out with this issue. After starting the bike cold and idling for about a minute or two, it blows a puff of blue smoke from the exhaust pipe if I roll the throttle. It also does this if I stop to talk to a riding buddy on a trail or on the side of the track, let it idle, and then start out on track again. After revving it once the blue smoke is gone but riding buds have told me they smell and occasionally see a puff of blue smoke when following me - not a constant stream just a puff and then it's gone for a while. I'm talking to myself over trying to locate the cause of this as a leak-down test shows no issue. Bike history Bought used with 70 hours on it. Original owner had an FMF header and tailpipe on it which he kept. He sold it to me with the stock pipe. He never had it remapped for the FMF pipe Started it's life in Atlanta GA Now mostly ridden at sea level He told me he used mineral-based 10w-40 Yamalube oil. The manual calls for 10w-50 Ester-based synthetic - which the bike is now running. This is what I've tried so far: Leak-down test produced only a 3-5% loss. No bubbles in the coolant with the cap off No air leak at the exhaust pipe No leak at intake Barely, barely noticeable hiss when I remove the oil fill cap - but again not enough to lose any more than 5% pressure during the leak-down test. Wouldn't matter but checked the valve clearances while the valve cover was off. They were in spec. No loss of power No milky engine oil from a coolant leak No loss of engine oil as seen at the engine oil level window - never needed to add oil between changes Talked to someone who builds motors for a living and he said "all KTM/Husqvarna's do it especially when cold because the EFI delivers more fuel on startup as opposed to running at operating temperature". I guess I can see that but why does the bike blow blue smoke at operating temperature then if I pull off the trail or track for 1 minute to ask one of my riding buds something? I'm not letting it idle for minutes at a time. 1-2 minutes tops. Is this just normal for KTM/Husqvarna/4-stoke racing bikes?? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Former bikes where 2-strokes (CR250, RM125) and a 1993 DR350 which I could've let idle for 20 minutes an not seen blue smoke - but that was a carbed bike. I've always known if a 4-stroke is smoking blue it's burning oil and you shouldn't keep riding it. So I'm a bit concerned about whipping it around the track or taking it out a few miles on trails.
  3. Been experiencing a bit more plug fouling lately and a little bit less go in the motor of my YZ250 (2005). I've suspected it had leaky seals for a long time, even though it passed the leak down test. My understanding is that seals can check good when the motor isn't running but leak at specific RPMs. Top end with new cylinder has about 6 hours on it but have had an issue of fouling plugs with excellent jetting since before doing the top end. Today with a warm engine I get lots of smoke at WOT and she isn't running very well. Below that it's pretty good. Can't say positively leaky seal is the problem, but I've wanted an excuse to change them for a long time and am finally committed to getting it done. First time for me, so looking forward to learning something new. QUESTION: What parts will I need? Gaskets, bushings? I'll follow the manual, but just looking for tips and tricks. I do have a bearing puller tool (claw looking beast). EDIT: Will definitely run a compression test before I do anything.
  4. Hi Guys, I have a XR250 Baja black one. Recently noticed that it has a small smoke coming out. Looks blueish color. Does not comes when starting the bike. But after riding 5/ 10 Km starts to smoke. Seems oil also get reduced (not a high amount). Have to check & refill within like 5 days. I use 20w40 Motul oil. Did some research as well. Feels like my piston rings have worn out. I'm planning to replace them. Just like to know whether, is it possible to replace only the piston rings without boring or without new piston. And appreciate your knowledge regarding this. Many Thanks.
  5. michael orr

    Absolutely stumped

    Flustered. I picked up a yz250 yesterday to mix up my riding. (I ride a ltr450) But pulled it out from a shed where he said it's been resting for a month. Started up first kick. Test rode it. Ride ok.. felt a bit slow but I had just been riding my rocket. Bought it and brought it home. It had almost no fuel. Mixed up some fuel 32:1 and filled the tank about half way. Go out to rip and the bike does after about 5 mins. Push it in the garage and can't get it to start. Pull the choke up and it starts. But it's smoking like crazy. Out the PVV and from the head pipe (gasket is bad) and would only rub on choke. Ok, maybe it didn't like that oil...... drain the tank. Make a new premix with different oil. Run the fuel put of the carb and fuel up again Only starts with choke still got it to run without choke on. Go rip for a bit and I feel it bogging in lower rpms. Ride back to garage and it dies (woo didn't have to push it back this time at least) Figure the carb could have possibly been bummed up if the premix was bad from that first batch. Took the carb out and cleaned it, as well as the a new plug in. Once again would only run on choke. Pull the plug. It's wet. Clean the plug up and put it back in. Now the bike isn't starting at all. Good compression Good spark Wtf am I missing here?
  6. I have a 1999 Suzuki RM125. I think I need new crank seals because I am getting a lot of thick smoke, low power, and black goo is coming out of the tailpipe. The carb is adjusted, and there is a new top end. When I look at both rings, its really hard to see if there are any leaks, and I'm not sure its something that's easy to spot. I have the service manual but its for newer years, so I'm not sure if the 1999 would be the same. If the 1999 (mine) is the same as this manual, then I think that the oil seal was installed backward on the RH side because I don't see the spring. What do you guys think? I think that flipping the seal around might solve the issue, but getting it out would be tough without damaging it. Also, do you have any tips on installing a seal with the crankshaft in already? Help!!!
  7. Hi I have a crf230f and it smokes blue-ish white-ish. Really bad! I turn the choke on then start it and it sends out billows of smoke, and it doesn't stop until I start riding it. Once I'm riding the smoke reduces greatly but still smokes a little bit. After a while it completely clears. But when I hold the clutch or put it in neutral for a couple minutes it starts right back up again. Is it the piston rings or does the carb need an adjustment? Thanks for the help!!!
  8. Bike is a 1999 Suzuki RM125. I had the crankshaft rebuilt, so during the install I had put in new crank bearings, new crank seals, new case gasket, new reeds, and a new top end. I also cleaned the carb and put in the recommended jets for my exhaust and elevation/temperature. I run 32:1 fuel mix. I also put in a new primary gear, which is what contacts the oil seal. I put axle grease into the seal before inserting the primary gear. The bike smokes more than it should, and I'm pretty sure the cause is that transmission oil is leaking into the crankshaft area and eventually getting into the cylinder. I would top off the oil and check the level with the little bolt on the side of the clutch cover. After a while of riding I would take the bolt out and I would have to tip the bike quite a bit for anything to come out. I don't understand why it could leak. I also topped off the coolant, and the level stayed the same, so that's not leaking. Do you think its still getting in through the seal? If not, where could it get in from? There was quite a discussion as to the orientation of the seal itself here, but since that post I have installed a new seal with spring side out (which is different than most bikes, but I think that's what the manual says).
  9. Hi, A bit of maintenance history first, My bike has 192 hours on it at 134 hours (58 hours ago) I had: new cases, new top end, new main bearings, new connecting rod and all transmission bearings were replaced. Since then I had 7 oil changes and 5 oil filter were replaced(@ 56 hours oil and oil filter were replaced). Today I noticed that the crankcase breather hose is smoking a bit, not very thick smoke but you can see it( also found a hole on the hose around the throttle body) in addition about the same time as the smoking breather thing I had a weird sound coming from the engine, right when I let off the throttle, I think may be a cam chain or a cam chain tension issue. the bike is a bit harder to kick start then usual so I had the valves clearance check and came out just fine. Any idea what is wrong? P.S - Regardless, I have a new Wiseco piston kit on its way , today i added a cam chain just in case , (my cam chain have 192 hours on it)
  10. spiker555

    610 TE white smoke

    Hi all, I need help with a problem i got. i have a 1999 Husqvarna 610 te (kickstart only version) and i have rebuild the whole engine top to bottom. New crank, conrod, piston (woesner including new rings) new main bearings and topend bearing, complete new gasket kit including valve stems, new timing chain. So far so good. Compression is fine, the thing started after the first kick, well second, but runs like a bat out of hell, 10 sec in it starts burning oil like there is no tomorrow. i have no clue why and where smoke is white and massive, but the engine works fine, even starts up after shutting it down, runs for a few sec the smoke starts again. Checked the oil amount not to have overfilled it and that is correct as well. My first thought was it's burning off the oil from assembly process but not the amount it throws out. Could it be that one of the new valve stem seals has given way? it's the only thing i can think off. any Ideas/thoughts are welcome thanks
  11. My bike (1999 RM125) has been suffering from a variety of symptoms: Low power Excessive smoke Spooge coming out of tailpipe Reving quite high on its own to where I have to hit the kill switch. No noticable powerband. Here's the work I put into the bike trying to fix this: Rebuilt/balanced crankshaft and connecting rod New top end (piston, ring, wrist pin, bearing) New main crank bearings New crank seals, left and right. From the symptoms I thought a new set of seals would do the trick, but it doesn't look like it has. Here is what I think it might be now: Leaking/flooded carb or bad float level, which mine is because its leaking. Bad reeds Power valve Air leak, but where? Out of the last list, do any of these make sense? I am so confused! I also don't know how much to twist the power valve adjustment knob. It looks like this. Can anyone help? I don't know what blown reeds sound/do. I also have a 168 main jet and ProCircuit, suggests that for my pipe I use a 165. Could this little difference be the cause?
  12. I feel like ripping my hair out! I bought a 2005 cr125 years ago, brand new. From day one it was a fouled. Eventually I had it tuned kind of good. A couple of years ago someone stole my bike. Obviously I recovered it. My crank bearings were shot. So I split the cases and changed them and both seals. After assembling the bike it smoked and bogged like crazy. I thought I may have fudged up the right crank seal when I installed it...nope changed it and still smoked and bogged and fouled. It sat up for about a year and I just broke it out again. It doesn't smoke as bad. If I idle for about 10 seconds it'll blubber and shoot out smoke before fouling a plug. The strange part it that it rides pretty good on the pipe, but out of the blue with blubber and eventually die. Now After cleaning the spark plug and kicking it, it'll turn over for a sec and die. The spark looks weak so I check it with a new plug and it looks good (so I'm assuming it's not the ignition system) anyone else have this problem? I'm beginning to think this bike is a money pit...but on the same hand I feel like it's something small causing all of this. Oh and also it's dripping that black crap from the tailpipe and plugs are always wet. I went down a size on the pilot...didnt help.
  13. I just got done replacing the head gasket and rings on my 2008 ktm exc and when I started it up for the first time it was blowing a lot of white smoke out the exhaust and even continued for a minute after shutting the bike off. I know thats typically a sign of a bad gasket but I just replaced it. I torqued all the bolts down corrrectly and I saw no problem with the head. Could it be something with the water pump? Or maybe i still screwed something up when putting it back together.
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