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Found 19 results

  1. I am trying to diagnose some issues I am having with my 1999 Suzuki RM125. Symptoms include: Low power, the bottom end seems OK, but there is no real increase at all. The engine revs up, but the bike doesn't really accelerate with a punch like my 1997 CR125R (not bogging though). Smoke seems a lot thicker than my CR. There is a pinging sound from the exhaust, I've heard that might be an air leak caused by a bad magneto-side crank seal. Sometimes when riding the bike will rev up on its own. Black spooge sometimes comes out of the tailpipe. Some more info on the bike: I checked the float level and its good. Has a pro-circuit fatty and the jetting specs matches the pro-circuit website. The bike has a new top end. Running 32:1. Coolant level doesn't drop (so no leaks there). Crank was rebuilt too. Here's what I think: Top end needs more time to break in. Crank seals need to be replaced. Power valve spring knob needs to be adjusted (don't know which way to turn it, there is a clockwise arrow on the knob but not sure it that will increase or decrease). Maybe I should run a hotter or colder spark plug?
  2. Hey everyone, i’ve been lurking for some time and now need some help. I just recently bought a KLX300R and am having an issue. First off, the carburetor seems to leak a little from a few places live the float bowl drain hole, and a black nozzle that is facing down on the side? but the main problem is the smoke. whenever it’s idling it runs fine and has no smoke, but when i gas it, it blows a white bluish smoke out the back, but then if i let it idle again it slowly stops smoking. i can’t tell if it happens while riding. my buddy said riding with me, that it did a little at times but that really doesn’t give much information. it also REALLY smuts up the back fender and exhaust tip. black smut all over, after riding for about 25 minutes. but i’m not sure if this is due specifically due to me overfilling the oil that ride. it has smoked since i got it. it smells like burning oil to me but what do i know. the guy i got it from said he rebuilt the carb which idk if that’s true or not, or if it’s just running rich now but i’m not sure. the thing is, it runs fine. no power loss, still hauls lots of ass. so i’m not too sure what the problem is. i hope some of you smart guys can help me find out what needs fixing. thanks! i types this on my phone so please forgive the bad formatting.
  3. I have a brand new off the showroom floor 2019 kx 250. Breaking it in I did a bunch of heat cycling as well as varying the rpm to hopefully seat the piston rings correctly, however, when I first start the bike, I pull out the choke (not sure if its actually a choke on a fuel injected bike) wait till it starts revving up, push it back in and let it warm up for a couple minutes, then give it a little throttle snap, I little puff of white/blue smoke comes out. it appears to not be losing any coolant or oil, but I haven't ridden it a lot because of this. I talked to the dealer about it and the said it is probably still just breaking in. Is this normal for a brand new bike? I have approximately 4 hours on the bike, did my first oil change at 2 hrs. when I changed the oil, I did accidently put too much in, but noticed immediately, and drained some out to the correct level. Could it be smoking because of that? also, once its fully warmed up and I'm riding, there is no smoke at all. could there be a little bit of oil in the combustion chamber from when the built the bike? how long would it take to burn that off? any answers are greatly appreciated.
  4. Hello to all. I just recently bought an XR4 (1st bike ). About a month after I bought it and having already spent some money on the electronics and some simple stuff, I decided to change oil + filter. The guy who sold it to me told me that he had changed the oil about a month before he selling it to me, and according to the oil level readings I figured I was fine up untill the moment I decided to change it. So, for starters, I drain the oil and I only get smth like 200ml of BLACK oil out of the frame, the crankcase AND the oil filter case. Did not look good, yet there was something in there, so i figured I would go on an see if everything is still ok after I was finished with the oil change (everything was running smoothly, even with the few oil the monster had inside it, no smoke, no weird sounds). So, I am about to put the filter case in place and BOOM, the big bolt broke before even fingertight place... I was so frustrated, yet I managed to take it out easily and put everything back to it's place. So, I go on and insert ~1.9lt of motul 5100 10w40 oil, I start the engine let it idle for like 5 mins, take it for a walk to run through the gears, but still get a low reading on the dipstick. It's like I have to do some special ritual to actually get a "proper" reading out of it. On TOP of that, I now have a bunch of white smoke comming out of my exhaust at high revs when hot (not sure if it's there when cold aswell). Hope I'm not going for a top end rebuild, since the white smoke was not there before changing the oil... Any thoughts are appreciated. Also, please excuse my newbieness. ps: I wanna thank the forum for the endless help provided on many thoughts and discussions so far
  5. First off, just wanted to say that I've searched for my particular issue beforehand. Didn't see anything posted quite like it. So here I am. 2013 DRZ-400S/SM Conversion. Not sure whats going on. Recently moved to Michigan from Cali in November 2019. Bike ran perfect before the move. Its only got 3700 miles on it. Oil was changed after installing a Q4/Powerbomb, FCR39, and installing stage 2 cams. Although I did switch one of the cams back to stock. Can't remember which though (pretty sure it was the intake). I know I'm supposed to change the oil again after 500 miles with the new cam/s but I had only put on around 375 miles before it starting smoking in the front. I also had the headers wrapped for some ungodly reason (not gunna lie I actually really digged the look). Replaced coolant/oil when I put in the cams. Coolant is still topped up. Just drained oil, doesnt really look/smell like any coolant is in it. Tried smelling the coolant but since ive got oil all over me I cant really tell. Reservoir is clean, no oil. Anyways yea, IDK. White smoke coming from header u-bend area, possibly where it connects to engine not entirely sure. All the headgasket posts I've read, its coming out of the exhaust. No white smoke coming out of my pipe. Bike has no issues starting, not overheating. I bought a headgasket kit from cometic anyways (do they always come with a head/base gasket?), but I just want to hear you're guys thoughts before I tear my head off. Both of them haha. Thanks for reading this post and extending a bit of your expertise. Im a noob, but Im trying to learn.
  6. Just bought a used 2017 Husqvarna FC450. It's my 1st EFI bike so I'm hoping someone can help me out with this issue. After starting the bike cold and idling for about a minute or two, it blows a puff of blue smoke from the exhaust pipe if I roll the throttle. It also does this if I stop to talk to a riding buddy on a trail or on the side of the track, let it idle, and then start out on track again. After revving it once the blue smoke is gone but riding buds have told me they smell and occasionally see a puff of blue smoke when following me - not a constant stream just a puff and then it's gone for a while. I'm talking to myself over trying to locate the cause of this as a leak-down test shows no issue. Bike history Bought used with 70 hours on it. Original owner had an FMF header and tailpipe on it which he kept. He sold it to me with the stock pipe. He never had it remapped for the FMF pipe Started it's life in Atlanta GA Now mostly ridden at sea level He told me he used mineral-based 10w-40 Yamalube oil. The manual calls for 10w-50 Ester-based synthetic - which the bike is now running. This is what I've tried so far: Leak-down test produced only a 3-5% loss. No bubbles in the coolant with the cap off No air leak at the exhaust pipe No leak at intake Barely, barely noticeable hiss when I remove the oil fill cap - but again not enough to lose any more than 5% pressure during the leak-down test. Wouldn't matter but checked the valve clearances while the valve cover was off. They were in spec. No loss of power No milky engine oil from a coolant leak No loss of engine oil as seen at the engine oil level window - never needed to add oil between changes Talked to someone who builds motors for a living and he said "all KTM/Husqvarna's do it especially when cold because the EFI delivers more fuel on startup as opposed to running at operating temperature". I guess I can see that but why does the bike blow blue smoke at operating temperature then if I pull off the trail or track for 1 minute to ask one of my riding buds something? I'm not letting it idle for minutes at a time. 1-2 minutes tops. Is this just normal for KTM/Husqvarna/4-stoke racing bikes?? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Former bikes where 2-strokes (CR250, RM125) and a 1993 DR350 which I could've let idle for 20 minutes an not seen blue smoke - but that was a carbed bike. I've always known if a 4-stroke is smoking blue it's burning oil and you shouldn't keep riding it. So I'm a bit concerned about whipping it around the track or taking it out a few miles on trails.
  7. My bike (1999 RM125) has been suffering from a variety of symptoms: Low power Excessive smoke Spooge coming out of tailpipe Reving quite high on its own to where I have to hit the kill switch. No noticable powerband. Here's the work I put into the bike trying to fix this: Rebuilt/balanced crankshaft and connecting rod New top end (piston, ring, wrist pin, bearing) New main crank bearings New crank seals, left and right. From the symptoms I thought a new set of seals would do the trick, but it doesn't look like it has. Here is what I think it might be now: Leaking/flooded carb or bad float level, which mine is because its leaking. Bad reeds Power valve Air leak, but where? Out of the last list, do any of these make sense? I am so confused! I also don't know how much to twist the power valve adjustment knob. It looks like this. Can anyone help? I don't know what blown reeds sound/do. I also have a 168 main jet and ProCircuit, suggests that for my pipe I use a 165. Could this little difference be the cause?
  8. I feel like ripping my hair out! I bought a 2005 cr125 years ago, brand new. From day one it was a fouled. Eventually I had it tuned kind of good. A couple of years ago someone stole my bike. Obviously I recovered it. My crank bearings were shot. So I split the cases and changed them and both seals. After assembling the bike it smoked and bogged like crazy. I thought I may have fudged up the right crank seal when I installed it...nope changed it and still smoked and bogged and fouled. It sat up for about a year and I just broke it out again. It doesn't smoke as bad. If I idle for about 10 seconds it'll blubber and shoot out smoke before fouling a plug. The strange part it that it rides pretty good on the pipe, but out of the blue with blubber and eventually die. Now After cleaning the spark plug and kicking it, it'll turn over for a sec and die. The spark looks weak so I check it with a new plug and it looks good (so I'm assuming it's not the ignition system) anyone else have this problem? I'm beginning to think this bike is a money pit...but on the same hand I feel like it's something small causing all of this. Oh and also it's dripping that black crap from the tailpipe and plugs are always wet. I went down a size on the pilot...didnt help.
  9. Hi all, I need help with a problem i got. i have a 1999 Husqvarna 610 te (kickstart only version) and i have rebuild the whole engine top to bottom. New crank, conrod, piston (woesner including new rings) new main bearings and topend bearing, complete new gasket kit including valve stems, new timing chain. So far so good. Compression is fine, the thing started after the first kick, well second, but runs like a bat out of hell, 10 sec in it starts burning oil like there is no tomorrow. i have no clue why and where smoke is white and massive, but the engine works fine, even starts up after shutting it down, runs for a few sec the smoke starts again. Checked the oil amount not to have overfilled it and that is correct as well. My first thought was it's burning off the oil from assembly process but not the amount it throws out. Could it be that one of the new valve stem seals has given way? it's the only thing i can think off. any Ideas/thoughts are welcome thanks
  10. Im hoping someone can help me diagnose a problem with my bike I picked up a few months ago. About the bike: 1992 KX250, boysen rad valve (reeds look good), full FMF fatty pipe and silencer (both new), keihin 38 pwk with fmf recommended jets, which are new (162 main, 58 pilot, 3rd clip position, 1.5 turns out on the air screw, proper float height), new air filter, elevation 1200 feet above sea level, 32/1 using Klotz super technic and 93 gas from the pump, compression 225 psi, and the previous owner put a wiseco complete bottom end kit in it right before I got it. It starts up first kick when "cold" and idles pretty good but smokes heavily and has lots of spooge coming from the exhaust. When riding at slow speeds it sounds like a 4 stroke. It doesn't sound at all like my KX125 or any other 2 stroke and won't rev out. The smoke is a blueish color and lingers for a bit. I did a leak down test on it and it lost 2 psi over 10 minutes so I pulled the clutch cover and couldn't see any bubbles coming from the right side crank seal after spraying some soapy water on it. I did find an air leak at the power valve seal which i'll be replacing. I don't think its burning transmission fluid (atf type f) because I don't believe I'm losing any and the exhaust smells just like my 125. I cleaned the carb and even with the jets I had laying around (158 main, and 48 pilot) it still smokes like a pig and "4 strokes" Would any of you think it could be the jet block gasket causing it to suck extra gas from the bowl causing a rich condition? I'm sorta at a loss on this one. I can post a video of it running if that would help. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  11. Heyo! Let me start by saying hope everyone is keeping safe and healthy right now and thank you in advance for any help. Since i had some free time i decided to go ahead and try the fcr-mx 40 carb mod on my XR650L. Its been desmogged, desnorkled and has a UNI air filter, aside from that everything is stock. It came off a 2002 CRF450R ad was cleaned and rebuilt with a fresh kit by myself. I got the Nos adapter installed on the carb and than installed the carb on the bike. I followed some recommendations for tuning but could never get it to run just right. Just before i took it off i had it running well enough to get my to the gas station but it was still running a little funky. I noticed to increase in power or throttle response and when i would open the throttle i felt a minor bogging. Ok, so that brings me to now. I decided to do the Daves Carb Mod on my original carb and install it on the Xr so i can at least ride while im figuring out the FCR. I followed all the instructions, the only exception is i put a 152 main jet because that it the largest one on hand. when i went to start the bike it was having a bit of trouble, i had to hold the throttle open a little to get it started. Now here is the problem im concerned about. When it started it was puffing white smoke and the exhaust was popping a lot. It almost sounded like a to stroke. This has got my a little confused and that is why i am reaching out now. If you have any help for either of the carbs i would greatly appreciate it. Sorry for writing you a book, hope you liked it. Here is a run own of the bike and carbs: XR650l: -Uni Air Filter -Desmogged -Desnorkled Ridding in Montreal about 600-800 feet above sea level. Fcr-Mx 40mm: CRF450R Needle 5th clip position -48 Pilot -170 Main -All other jets are stock Stock CV Carb: -Cleaned and rebuilt with a fresh kit -Daves mod -55 Pilot -152 Main -Screw 2.5 turns out
  12. Hi, A bit of maintenance history first, My bike has 192 hours on it at 134 hours (58 hours ago) I had: new cases, new top end, new main bearings, new connecting rod and all transmission bearings were replaced. Since then I had 7 oil changes and 5 oil filter were replaced(@ 56 hours oil and oil filter were replaced). Today I noticed that the crankcase breather hose is smoking a bit, not very thick smoke but you can see it( also found a hole on the hose around the throttle body) in addition about the same time as the smoking breather thing I had a weird sound coming from the engine, right when I let off the throttle, I think may be a cam chain or a cam chain tension issue. the bike is a bit harder to kick start then usual so I had the valves clearance check and came out just fine. Any idea what is wrong? P.S - Regardless, I have a new Wiseco piston kit on its way , today i added a cam chain just in case , (my cam chain have 192 hours on it)
  13. I just got done replacing the head gasket and rings on my 2008 ktm exc and when I started it up for the first time it was blowing a lot of white smoke out the exhaust and even continued for a minute after shutting the bike off. I know thats typically a sign of a bad gasket but I just replaced it. I torqued all the bolts down corrrectly and I saw no problem with the head. Could it be something with the water pump? Or maybe i still screwed something up when putting it back together.
  14. Hi I have a crf230f and it smokes blue-ish white-ish. Really bad! I turn the choke on then start it and it sends out billows of smoke, and it doesn't stop until I start riding it. Once I'm riding the smoke reduces greatly but still smokes a little bit. After a while it completely clears. But when I hold the clutch or put it in neutral for a couple minutes it starts right back up again. Is it the piston rings or does the carb need an adjustment? Thanks for the help!!!
  15. Bike is a 1999 Suzuki RM125. I had the crankshaft rebuilt, so during the install I had put in new crank bearings, new crank seals, new case gasket, new reeds, and a new top end. I also cleaned the carb and put in the recommended jets for my exhaust and elevation/temperature. I run 32:1 fuel mix. I also put in a new primary gear, which is what contacts the oil seal. I put axle grease into the seal before inserting the primary gear. The bike smokes more than it should, and I'm pretty sure the cause is that transmission oil is leaking into the crankshaft area and eventually getting into the cylinder. I would top off the oil and check the level with the little bolt on the side of the clutch cover. After a while of riding I would take the bolt out and I would have to tip the bike quite a bit for anything to come out. I don't understand why it could leak. I also topped off the coolant, and the level stayed the same, so that's not leaking. Do you think its still getting in through the seal? If not, where could it get in from? There was quite a discussion as to the orientation of the seal itself here, but since that post I have installed a new seal with spring side out (which is different than most bikes, but I think that's what the manual says).
  16. I have a 1999 Suzuki RM125. I think I need new crank seals because I am getting a lot of thick smoke, low power, and black goo is coming out of the tailpipe. The carb is adjusted, and there is a new top end. When I look at both rings, its really hard to see if there are any leaks, and I'm not sure its something that's easy to spot. I have the service manual but its for newer years, so I'm not sure if the 1999 would be the same. If the 1999 (mine) is the same as this manual, then I think that the oil seal was installed backward on the RH side because I don't see the spring. What do you guys think? I think that flipping the seal around might solve the issue, but getting it out would be tough without damaging it. Also, do you have any tips on installing a seal with the crankshaft in already? Help!!!
  17. Flustered. I picked up a yz250 yesterday to mix up my riding. (I ride a ltr450) But pulled it out from a shed where he said it's been resting for a month. Started up first kick. Test rode it. Ride ok.. felt a bit slow but I had just been riding my rocket. Bought it and brought it home. It had almost no fuel. Mixed up some fuel 32:1 and filled the tank about half way. Go out to rip and the bike does after about 5 mins. Push it in the garage and can't get it to start. Pull the choke up and it starts. But it's smoking like crazy. Out the PVV and from the head pipe (gasket is bad) and would only rub on choke. Ok, maybe it didn't like that oil...... drain the tank. Make a new premix with different oil. Run the fuel put of the carb and fuel up again Only starts with choke still got it to run without choke on. Go rip for a bit and I feel it bogging in lower rpms. Ride back to garage and it dies (woo didn't have to push it back this time at least) Figure the carb could have possibly been bummed up if the premix was bad from that first batch. Took the carb out and cleaned it, as well as the a new plug in. Once again would only run on choke. Pull the plug. It's wet. Clean the plug up and put it back in. Now the bike isn't starting at all. Good compression Good spark Wtf am I missing here?
  18. Hi Guys, I have a XR250 Baja black one. Recently noticed that it has a small smoke coming out. Looks blueish color. Does not comes when starting the bike. But after riding 5/ 10 Km starts to smoke. Seems oil also get reduced (not a high amount). Have to check & refill within like 5 days. I use 20w40 Motul oil. Did some research as well. Feels like my piston rings have worn out. I'm planning to replace them. Just like to know whether, is it possible to replace only the piston rings without boring or without new piston. And appreciate your knowledge regarding this. Many Thanks.
  19. Been experiencing a bit more plug fouling lately and a little bit less go in the motor of my YZ250 (2005). I've suspected it had leaky seals for a long time, even though it passed the leak down test. My understanding is that seals can check good when the motor isn't running but leak at specific RPMs. Top end with new cylinder has about 6 hours on it but have had an issue of fouling plugs with excellent jetting since before doing the top end. Today with a warm engine I get lots of smoke at WOT and she isn't running very well. Below that it's pretty good. Can't say positively leaky seal is the problem, but I've wanted an excuse to change them for a long time and am finally committed to getting it done. First time for me, so looking forward to learning something new. QUESTION: What parts will I need? Gaskets, bushings? I'll follow the manual, but just looking for tips and tricks. I do have a bearing puller tool (claw looking beast). EDIT: Will definitely run a compression test before I do anything.
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