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Found 3 results

  1. Hey Guys. I have a Honda XR 250r 1999 that i have just rebuilt. I got the piston and barrel done in a shop along with the valves. The bike is running well but has a issue with burning oil. The decompression valve on the engine was jammed but we managed to free it up but the bike has lacked compression since it was freed. I have no issue starting the bike but would a broken/stuck decompression valve be a reason behind the burning of the oil and lack of compression? I started with a synthetic oil but was advised to use a mineral so did a oil change and now have 20w-50 mineral in the bike but have seen no change.
  2. So I have an 07 cr 125 fouling plugs before the bike even has a chance to warm up, plugs come out wet and oily on the tip. had both crank seals replaced last season because my main drive side seal blew. While it was split I had a new crank put in, we noticed my cylinder plating was pooched so I sent my cylinder off to be re-plated, put a new piston in the shiny new looking cylinder put the old warped head back on and called it a day. then rode it all season having absolutely no idea about the warped head because I overlooked it when I was excited to put my bike back together and ride. Its now winter, snows on the ground. I recently went to go for a put and fouled a plug before I could get to the end of the street and back. I was also smelling coolant so checked the rad while running the bike, lots of movement and tiny bubbes. Pulled the head off and sure enough it was warped to the point where I could rock it back amd fourth on the mirror and see a small gap... so NOW after I replaced the head my problems persisted and I can still see little bubbles swirling around vigorously in the rad if I rev it with the cap off, I've had boiled it down to my cylinder probably being warped then I found a leaky hose by the exhaust that was dripping coolant onto the outside of the exhaust port. Which brings me to what I think may be an incredibly stupid question, could it just be the loose hose sucking in air that is causing my rad fluid to have small bubbles in it? And maybe im just experiencing increadibly rich jetting now that my head is actually sealed properly? over and out.
  3. Hey again, thanks all for helping me get my bike back in order but I might need some more advice. I recently re-did the top end, valves, cam swap etc. and after I got it revived it was smoking on cold starts but stops smoking when the engine gets at operating temp. It's not a TON of smoke, but it is embarrassing when I'm leaving work or a friends house and I have to smoke out the neighborhood before I ride off. My experience with this in the past is oil in the combustion chamber burning. My guess is the piston rings need to be replaced, or it needs a complete bore job. My question is: What are the tolerances for stock rings VS needing to do a bore job? I'm still riding right now until I can get the $ to buy new gaskets and rings and whatever else it may need, so I don't have the diameter of my cylinder or piston at the moment. (Secondary thought: When it did not smoke, prior to top end rebuild, it had very old and viscous oil. When I did the rebuild I did an oil change with fresh oil. Could the thinness of the new oil be enough to seep past the piston rings when the viscous oil wouldn't? Could adding an "oil stabilizer" increase the viscosity and stop the smoking without replacing the rings? Is adding an "oil stabilizer" a bad thing for these bikes; would the extra viscosity overheat the oil because it can't flow properly; could any additives affect the interior of the engine? I'm leaning toward experimenting by thickening the oil first before I spend a chunk of change on rings and gaskets and possibly a bore job.)
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