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Found 44 results

  1. Okay I got a 1994 ktm 250 EXC last summer the bike ran great all year started first second kick always. This year when I got it out it seemed like it always just wanted to barely start but never would. I took the carb apart it was very clean but I cleaned it anyways and put it back together I also replaced the spark plug with the same plug I ran in it the previous summer I noticed I had a very weak spark compared to my rm 125 u had to Cup ur hands around it to see it at all if u took the cap off and put a screw driver up there and kicked it over it only tingled and didn’t give a good kick like some people say it is supposed to I replaced the plug anyways and it did start and Idled good for a min and then started to bog down I would give it gas and noting and then would rev real high I tried to ride it just around in first gear and the bike bogged down I would give it gas and it would be a full second and then lulch forward then it either died or u was done with it for the night. The next day I lowered the float bowl some since it seemed like it had too much gas but now I feel as though it is the spark not sparking the gas that is in there. I have tried several things the spark plug that is in it is not the manuals one but it ran fine with it last year so I don’t think that is the problem any suggestions I don’t see it very much online with a weak spark it’s always no spark.
  2. CR9EIX vs CR9EHIX-9 Difference seems to be thread length and gap, but will the CR9EHIX-9 work in my bike? (SXF 250 '11). My dealer said that it'll work in it, but im skeptical. (they didn't have the other one in stock.) Also i can't test it right now if it'll work, because my bike is located at my farm right now. Thanks in advance.
  3. Hello, this past weekend was overly frustrating for me and a few friends. We planned weeks ahead to get away for the weekend, leaving the even more frustrated wife and kids, traveling a few hours south to ride at Burning Rock Outdoor Adventure Park in WV. Cabins rented, tanks filled, bikes in tow. We made it 15 miles from camp the first morning only to have my rather new (250 miles, 16 hours) 2016 250xc-w stop dead. Initial thought was a plug, which when changed it hit just for a second then shut off again DEAD. Put a third plug in and towed it down the trail in third gear for a 1/2 mile... NOTHING DEAD. Finally pulled the plug and realized it wasn't sparking at all. We switched the CDI box, voltage reg, and coil packs between mine and my friends 2014 on the trail to no avail. We also checked the kill switch. Fast forward to today and I have pulled the side case to inspect the stator. You can see in the picture the bottom black winding, which by the manual looks to be the charging coil of the ignition is bubbled (not sure if that's normal). The maintenance book I have states at 68 degree, which my garage is maybe 75, the resistance should be 12-16.6 ohms. You can see right at the coil itself I'm getting around 9.7, and if measured at the bus connecter as the manual says, it reads about 10.1. All the other values for the coil pack and stator are perfectly within spec, and nothing is shorted to ground. I'm the original owner of the bike and haven't done anything but change the oil and clean the air filter. After all that my question is are those roughly 2 ohms enough to prevent the plug from sparking??? Alternator specs Lighting winding .1 ohms Battery winding .7 ohms Stator spec Pulse generator 100.1 ohms Coil pack Primary winding .3 secondary 6K ohms On a side note, I highly recommend the trails (what I saw) and the employees of Burning Rock. One of the maintenance guys rode 30 minutes with my friends, around the mountain, in the truck, to lead them to me... Super friendly folks. https://burningrockwv.com/
  4. The bike has spark at the plug when grounded on the engine but not much. I have a wr250f so I compared the two. The wr has much more, bright blue spark, yz - you can barley see the spark. I switched plugs and coils between the two bikes, same result. The bike will start and run for 30-60 seconds and then die. If you crack the throttle it dies. I have checked the ohms from the stator. It all checks out with my multi meter to be within spec. I have check all connections, disconnected the kill switch. Nothing makes any difference. I have researched and read every article. Before I start buying parts and switching them out I'm open for suggestions. When the bike quit and we got it hope, I noticed that there was a hole on the radiator hose and there was no water in the bike. I figured it had run hot and melted the piston. I checked the valves. They were spot on. Pulled the top end off. The piston and cylinder looked okay. The oil rings showed wear so I put in a new piston and rings hoping. When I got it back together it was still the same. You can get it to start after several kicks but not for long. Could the heat have caused something to happen in the electrical system? Any advise will be greatly appreciated. From all I have read the cdi rarely goes out on these bikes. Thanks, Darrell
  5. I have a 1990 Suzuki 250 RMX I have just got done with a rebuild after sitting for 2years. i have replaced the stator and ignition coil. the problem this still stumps me I can turn the bike over with a drill and I get a 1/4 inch blue spark but if I try to kick it I get nothing even holding the wire with bare hands . The only thing i haven't replaced is the cdi box and wiring harness from what i can gather either the stator is out of time, bad wires ,or cdi box hopefully someone knows more than me i would rather not drop the almost $500 on a new cdi if that isn't the problem. Hopefully i cant get the info i need thanks
  6. I have an 03 drz that will not start, I've checked fuel, compression, and now I'm chasing spark I got a manual and started doing some electrical ohm tests. stator, rectifier, and coil. The only one that didnt match the specs in the manual was the coil. I have two coils for this bike and have tried them both in the bike. They both make spark when they're out of the bike and grounded to the frame. however neither of the coils meet the spec for the secondary coil ohms. The spec is like 13k to 20k ohms one coil gets like 2,500 ohms and the other gets like 5,000 ohms on the secondary Are both coils bad? and.. Is it possible that I'm not getting spark in the cylinder?
  7. Does anyone know how to replace the “Charging Coil 1” on a 2007 yz250f? When using the multimeter, I received the following readings: Ignition Coil Primary coil resistance: initially .8 but settles at .3 - .5 - spec: .08 - .10 Secondary coil resistance: 5.7 - spec: 4.6 - 6.8 CDI Mageto Pickup coil resistance: 293 - spec: 248 - 372 Charging coil 1: no reading on multimeter - spec: 720 - 1,080 Charging coil 2: 52 - spec 44 - 66 Both the stop and neutral switches checked out last time I tested, but that was months ago. Spark plug was good, but I replaced it, anyway. The bike ran perfect last year and randomly wouldn’t give any feedback when kickstarting (no start button) after riding the prior day (last summer). It has been sitting ever since. Would you say the charging coil 1 is the issue here? I am trying to eliminate shop fees, so I would like to replace a small part rather than the whole stator/CDI unit if it is even possible. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
  8. Recently did a top end rebuild on my 2008 WR450, took her for a short test ride no problem, sounds good felt great, took her for a longer rider and about 10mins in suddenly souldnt rev past approx. 4000 (red light coming up on dash). Babied her home but I am stumped. Timing is good, TPS is within spec. The only thing I can think of is the flywheel/magneto rotor was stuck on tight and to get it off to replace the timing chain required some heat, yes used the correct tool. What im currently thinking is that the heat caused the flywheel/magneto rotor to lose magnetism preventing the CDI from seeing where the crank is located. She starts and runs fine at idle/low rpm. Has anyone had a similar issue or can provide a solution?
  9. Hey everyone, I’ve been messing around with my 85 Yamaha YTM225 for about 6 months now and have tried everything to get it to run right with no success. Every couple of weeks it’s a new issue. Right now it starts when it’s bone cold and runs perfect for a couple of minutes then shuts itself off and doesn’t start until it’s bone cold again. Every time I pull I plug it’s caked but it’s not smoking or burning oil I think it’s just running really rich. The mixture screw is all the way in and the float height is correct. It’s stock jetting and internally the bike is stock, new valve seals, carb, coil, and plugs I’m clueless please help
  10. So I got a 1973 Kawasaki F7 and it came with no spark and we did some testing and found out the stator is bad. I was gonna try rewinding but decided it would probably take a long time and then end up not working. It took awhile but we finally found a stator for a good price. We put it on and we got spark. A couple days later I hooked a little gas tank up to the carb and it started right up no problems. We saw that the fuel filter was messed up so we decided to put our own on there. It didn’t start. We did some messing around and decided to take the carb apart to see what was going on in there. It was in rough shape and I’m surprised it ran in the first place. Found a carburetor rebuild kit for a similar carb to ours and everything happened to fit perfectly on our carb. The bike was running again. It did have some flooding problems. I adjusted the float and it seemed to fix the problems so when I got it running I left it alone. The next time I tried messing with it I couldn’t get it started. There is a black (I think it has a white strip) (I think its a ground wire) wire that is hanging off the ignition or something (I can’t tell) and it would spark on some metal it was touching in sync with the engine noise. Once I saw it stop sparking and then the engine died. We couldn’t get it running and we were messing with the wire and it seemed to help the bike start up whenever the wire would spark. We hooked It up to the kill switch and it ran so I turned the kill switch to the off position and the bike shut off. The other day I was messing with it and the bike would start but immediately die and backfire (this bike is a two stroke so I thought the backfiring was interesting) I tried messing with the bike today and it didn’t even try start. Does any of this sound like carb problems? Or is it ignition problems. It seems like ignition problems to me but I’m not an expert. The carb still floods too but I think I know why. Thank you and I hope that wasn’t too confusing to read. Let me know if it is and I’ll try to explain better. now that I’m thinking about it, the spark plugs threads are pretty worn out and that could be causing compression issues
  11. 01 kx 85 keeps cooking the coil I have tested stator changed to a known good vortex ignition CDI box , new coil will run for about 5 minutes then it’s junk. Has anyone ever seen this issue before?
  12. I have a 2001 ktm sx 250 with a repaired stator, it was always hard to start the bike, even after rebuild. Last time the bike booged down, thence I can't start it. I check everything on the bike, carburated right, still has spark etc... I measured the exciter resistance value, the manual says it should be 24Ω +- 15% and my value is 13,8Ω. I also measured the ignition coil and the secondary coil range is 10,8-16,2kΩ and my value is 6kΩ. My spark plug always was a bit oily, my suggestion is the spark is not strong enough, it is possible? Could be that the problem?
  13. Okay so ever since I bought the bike a few months ago it always started up 1st try as long as I was at TDC (obviously I'd miss it sometimes so sometimes 2-3 kicks). The bike runs perfect is what I am trying to get across. Last night, 5/22/19 bike was running perfectly, and towards the end of the night (30mins before track closed) I went to truck to take a break and jumped back on it and it wouldn't start. So weird... So kicked a few more times, nothing. Waited around 20mins and tried again, still nothing. I dug further and decided to check the spark on the spark plug, spark plug looked like shit for one (see attached images) and I tried to get a spark out of it and I couldn't, bought one from AutoZone for $5 and came back and tested spark, saw a spark, great, put together bike and tried to kick a few times, nothing... So I ended up checking the valve clearances and they seemed fine and in spec Put everything back together again and at this point I was like hm... lets see what happens if I put a little bit of gas, about 1/2 of the top of a water bottle worth into the cylinder. Put the sparkplug back in and kicked it once and it started! Left it on for a few minutes to let it idle / rev it a little then I shut it off, re assembled the rest of the bike then sat back down on it once I was done and kicked it and started up first try again. So my question is, why all of the sudden did it start to seem perfectly fine?? Did that little bit of gas somehow unclog something along the way when it fired up the first time? I was just so confused because I really didn't do anything except replace the spark plug.
  14. So here's the problem my 2006 KX 100 will only get one solid spark when I press the kill swich and kick it over. After that I get no spark.Every time I let go and press the kill swich again I get one single spark. Any ideas??? 🤔
  15. My brothers ssr 125 lost spark a couple months ago, after ruling out The plug, coil, and kill switch we decided it must have been the stator, he ended up buying a cheap Chinese racing stator kit off eBay,after replacing the stator we had no spark so he bought another just to make sure, same thing,after some research we found out you could rotate the stator plate so we did, we got spark but when we started it up it wouldn’t rev above probably 2500 rpms and had a consistent popping when holding it wide open, sounded like timing to me, I’m curious why rotating it gave us spark and what the problem could be other then that. Rotating it 180 degrees should be the exact same thing right?
  16. Hey all. I've got a spark issue I cant seem to nail down. It's a 91 dr650s kick only with about 12k miles. The problem is that it'll only spark when it feels like it. If I get it started it runs great. I'll shut it off, go inside for an hour, come back out and there's no spark. I've only had it a couple months. Before me it sat in a garage for a year. I replaced the plugs, wires, caps and coil. Did a diode test on the regulator and it tested good. Stator was grounding to itself so I replaced that with a Rick's stator/pickup coil combo. Cleaned the ignition switch with electrical cleaner. All wire connections seem to have continuity. Neutral switch is working. Battery connections are solid. 30 amp fuse is intact. What else am I missing? Could it be the cdi? I've been pulling my hair out for three weeks over this turd.
  17. Hi guys I took of my stator cover and starter. i Put everything back together in correct order but no spark dont know if there are any wires that could have pulled out or disconected Please if any body has an idea or know of anything i can look at it would be much appreciated.. Kind Regards. Clueless
  18. Hi guys, My problem started with this: I went for a quick ride for learning wheelies. The bike was running good for the whole time then I stopped for a little break. After that when I wanted to start the bike it but wouldn't start. The starter motor cranked but nothing happened. After a few tries I noticed that when I pushed the starter button a slight smoke(wich smelled like burnt plastic) came from the bottom of the fuel tank. Ok I tought it is a short so I pushed the bike home instead of trying it more times. Next day I pulled off the fuel tank and checked for burnt cables. I found out that the ground wire which is fixed under the ignition coil burnt down. I replaced it and tried to start the bike. When I started it the replaced wire started to get hot instantly. Ok, I tought it will be something else. I searched for anything else. I found that the ground wire which comes directly from the battery came off from the frame. I screwed back to the frame. After I tried to start again, the ignition coil ground wire didn't got hot that time but it didn't do a single spark. So i tried several thing in the last few weeks. I bought a new ignition coil, hired my friends working CDI and tested with is, bought a new aftermarket stator(Electrex, wich is english made), took apart the whole wiring harness looking for a burnt wire and checked all of the plugs for burning or someting that is not correct. All of these seems to be okay so now I'm clueless what it can be. The bike is a 2005 E model which is converted into an SM. It has an SM wiring harness with some modifications(side stand switch bypassed, clutch switch bypassed, horn, fan and neutral switch plugs not used).
  19. I have a 2001 kx100 and i think it has a weak spark. i took the carb off and sprayed starter fluid in the intake and when i kicked it it did nothing. i know its sparking though. i took the plug out and looked at it while i kicked it. it looks like a white spark. i tried a new plug and a new ignition coil. didnt help. my stator resistance and crank sensor resistance are in spec. Anyone have any idea what could be wrong?
  20. Hi all, Picked up an `84 CR500R last week and have been chasing a very weak and sometimes intermittent spark. I've gotten the bike started a few times but pulling the plug out I usually get no spark or sometimes very low spark. Haven't been able to start it since the first day I had it.This is where i am at now: 1. I tested the resistance in the ignition coil and got .5 ohm in the primary coil and 9.87K ohm in the secondary with the cap. The secondary coil without the plug cap gave me a resistance of ~4.5K ohm. I don't have a manual so I don't know if this is in spec or not. 2. I tested the stator and the pulse generator resistances coming from the engine and they were both in spec according to this thread where the one guy mentioned them. 3. cleaned the ground wire going to the ICM and the coil. 4. tested the kill switch and it is fine. (even tried getting spark with switch disconnected) As it stands right now I have less spark than when I started and am trying to determine what I need to replace or clean. If anyone knows how to test the ICM to see if it is bad That would rule out a major expense for me. Other things I have thought about are trying to clean the stator (the housing looks pretty clean though) and replacing the ignition coil (just ordered a new one since they are relatively cheep). This link gives specks for the '85 ignition coil but mine is still outside of that range so I'm hoping that is the problem. Any help would be appreciated! Im very excited to get this bike up and running well.
  21. Hi, I’ve been trawling through various forums and Facebook trying to find out what my problem could be. I was hoping some previous threads were going to give me a solution, but no fix yet. Brothers bike won’t start. It will spark every 5-10 kicks. If I kick slowly right on the top of compression It does go. But when kicking repeatedly it doesn’t work. (With and without 12V external supply) We have a second bike at a neighbour which we tried components swapped over. All fine. Tried in the dealer power supply and LED FI and showed no faults - confirmed by trying off various sensors to force a fault. Loop tested each circuit at sensor. And then though wiring loom to ecu. Resistance and Continuity ok. Followed manual for min peak volts from ckp and rotation sense with a made up peak voltage sensor. Ok. Just. It’s charging 12v ok and capacitor ok. Confirmed in bike and bench tested charge and discharge time. Ecu swapped- no difference. TOS/Kill ok. Wiring loom removed and checked over line by line and continuity checked. Ill attach photos of inside of stator/rotor. I think that the CKP/Stator set up has something wrong with it. I think stator ok, but the rotation sense/CKP pick up not working. Im not sure what the start permissives would be on the bike, but I think I’ve covered them all. I’m not sure how the ECU works either....does it look for rotation to start fuel injection for example or does it look for rotation and CKP before ignition. I did notice some slight scoring on the inside of the casing. The stator went away for testing which goes against me think that it’s the CKP/Stator assembly. I thought perhaps rotor, but it’s a nice strong magnet. Hoping to swap stator and see how we get on. TIA for any thoughts on this.
  22. Hi all, I have a 2004 Kawasaki kx250 that died suddenly on me the other day. all i can get it to do is backfire every once in awhile. Tested the resistance and everything of the magneto and stator with a multi-meter and all is good. Coil is new oem Kawasaki the reeds are brand new vforce and the top end and carb have been completely rebuilt. key on crank is intact and all the timing marks are lined up. I hooked a timing light to it and spun the motor over really fast and found that it is sparking way to late. The service manual says that it is supposed to fire 14 degrees before TDC but it is sparking way after TDC. Im thinking its a fried CDI box since its the only thing i wasnt able to check. Any help would be appreciated Thanks
  23. OK guys, I'm stumped. I cannot get a spark on my KLX110. Kind of. To test my spark, I pulled my plug from the engine, held the boot end of the cable with the plug inserted, kicked it over and ZAP! The plug sparked and shocked my hand through the boot, and I had visible spark on the business end of the plug. I was surprised to get a shock through the insulated boot, but lesson learned, next time I held the cable much further back and kicked it over and no spark. Conclusion, my body was providing the necessary ground to produce the spark, and I need to test ground elsewhere on the bike. I've replaced my kill switch. I've bypassed the neutral switch with a direct ground. My next guess is the CDI, but before I spend the money on that I'm doubting that it will help. If I'm getting ground when I hold the boot end of the cable, doesn't that mean everything else along the route is clean? Anyone out there experience a similar situation and any advice you could send along to help me trouble shoot?
  24. Hello, I have a Gilera Runner 2T 180 Malossi Kit scooter using stage6 32mm carburettor, stage6 intake manifold and malossi VL13 reeds. It runs good but after a while the spark plug gets wet and refuses to start. If i take the spark plug out and clean it then it runs again but keeps getting wet. I tried using a smaller main jet but then it gets bogged by too much air and it still gets the spark plug wet. I’m currently using jet size 138 and it runns good full open throttle I also tried replacing the spark plug but its still getting foulded I also tried using the original reed valve with new malossi reeds which is smaller than the malossi vl13 and it gets worse. Carb is spitting vape fuel and it bogs out even at half throttle. When i take the carb out, i can see fuel inside intake manifold and reeds are all wet in both cases. Do you think the reed valve is too small? If so, which one do you recommend? Thank you!
  25. 2017 RMX450 with 2160 miles on it. Riding mainly single track in Arizona. Last time I took her out no issues at all on some crazy Jarvis type stuff with some river crossings. At home decided to grease my linkage bearings, clean air filter and change plugs as the service manual suggested. Completed said services and upon firing the bike up it is running like crap. Missing, stalling, popping and bogging. Hard to get running under a load, me on the bike trying to go anywhere. Full throttle she runs well but mid range and just above idle its terrible. So far I have done the following all per OEM service manual. Another note, Best friend and fellow rider has same bike and same year so I am able to swap parts to see if anything changes, nothing does. Bike has JD FI tuner. Stock snorkel, throttle stop and exhaust baffle have been removed. I have played with TPS adjustment a few times and current setting is .64V. All TPS and wiring associated is in tact and good condition. Bike has a street legal kit with brake light and TS. All that is in working order with no exposed wiring. Other than these changes bike is stock basically. Replaced rear fender do to a wreck the bent it in half, nothing serious just looped it on a big hillclimb. Checked resistance in coil, found to be in spec per manual. Friend tested his coil and found to be identical readings Replaced spark plug cap and spark plug for shits and giggles Tested TPS good voltage and resistance Tested continuity at Stator, no OL ECT sensor checked out Replaced fuel pump strainer filter and swapped tanks with friend, no change IAT sensor good IAP sensor good Swapped ECM with friend, no change Kill button checked Checked all fuses, nothing blown Battery fully charged and holding 12.74V Continuity checked from all sensors back to ECM plug. At this point I am going to clean injector, throttle body and airbox. I also will check valve shims again, last time I checked clearance they were in spec shortly after I purchased the bike with 67 miles on it(dealer demo bike). Other then that I am at a loss. What else can I do and has anyone had a similar issue?
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