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  1. Hello fellow riders. there is a trend that i see with Japanese brands which is they love to use same parts or designs on different bikes even from different manufacturers. Which in the end works for us customers. We can find same parts cheaper or more avaible but labeled for another bike. Esspecially in markets where DRZs are rare and/or discontinued (Europe etc) Also for bearings seals and o-rings. most of them are off the shelf products. i like to buy my parts from reputable manufacturers like skf-koyo-ariete when you buy those as a "kit" from a company that doesnt produce any of that stuff you often pay for package than product itself and theyre mostly inferior. So i will try to list the parts that i know compatible with drz400 and if you can chime in on this post with your knowledge i will add those as well. DRZ400SM --------------- -Front forks: Looks like same unit as on honda CR and suzuki rmz bikes (maybe sm travel is shorter) but i think fork internal spares are compatible. (Need confirmation on fork covers, not sure bottom lugs are same with every bike uses this shock. its near impossible to find fork covers for drz even in aftermarket plastics kits) Ariete"Ari" Seals 2007 ARI.117 size and model: DC4Y - 48 X 58,2 X 8,5/10,5 prtno. 51153-28H30 2007 ARI.126 size and model: Y-1 - 48 X 58,5/62 X 6/11,5 prtno. 51173-28H30 (Dust seal for ARI.117) 2005-2006 ARI.105 size and model: TC4 - 47 X 58 X 10 prtno. 51153-37F80 2005-2006 ARI.106 size and model: SG5 - 47 X 58,5/62 X 6/10,3 prtno. 51173-37F80 (Dust seal for ARI.105) (not sure if drz went to 48mm forks on 2007. tc4 model has one steel spring where as dc4y has 2, also different design on sealing surfaces. i assume its for choice of fork sticktion vs sealing power. Im attaching catalogue.) SKF seals Kit47S Kit47SHD (labeled as "Heavy Duty") SKF Mud Scrapers MS 47S Bushings SKTE/TI 47S -Front brake disc Same hole pattern as Yamaha wr and yz lines of bikes -Front brake pads: Theese exact calipers and pad design used all across dirtbikes from japan and even on gasgas and beta bikes.(too many to list) EBC FA185R for sintered or FA185X for carbon pads (thats the brand that i use you may contribute with other brands part number as well) -Front brake caliper rebuild kits for pretty much all Japanese dirt bikes of the era, can be further detailed. Rm125 Rm250 Rmz450 Rmx450 (2011-2017) dr650 are the ones for suzuki -Front master cylinder: "Road" type master cylinder with bigger reservoir than most dirt bikes. suzuki part fiche shows it has the same piston as intruder1400 cruiser and dr 125 and dr350 bikes -Radiator Louver Same with rm125(till 2008) and rm250 (till 2005) range can be more than that. checking on european resources. -Rear shock S and SM units have different part number. probably sm has shorter travel. since parts fiche doesnt show any inner parts cant confirm suzuki-wide compatibility. But its a pretty wide spread shock produced by showa and used on many bikes arround (with different lenghts of travel and valving etc) Needs more info on bushings and seals and o-rings. -Rear Sprocket Same bolt pattern as rmz ones. -Front sprocket Needs more info -Bearings Steering stem bearings: same across most Suzuki dirt bikes from 1991 to 2019 (specs are welcome to make it easier to find bearings from other manufacturers like skf) Engine bearings: (needs further info. while some bearings are standart off the shelf products some of them are produced just for suzuki with 1milimeters of difference than standart sized ones. thus fitting anything other than oem impossible. size info needed for standard bearings. Swing arm and wheel bearings: As most of us know drz sm uses old rm125 and rm250 swingarm. Thus shares bearings bushings and spacers. Detailed sizing info needed for aftermarket bearing compatibility. (same with wheel bearings) -Seals & O-rings Countershaft seal: 30x40x6mm Countershaft bushing o-ring: D:2.5,ID:21 Catalogs guides charts and manuals for drz : https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HtnVHyxvNvFAG_MEUJwffJwJThD-AIVn Contribitions are more than welcome !! have a good day and ride safe
  2. Hello Do I need to elevate back tire to adjust y chain on my DRZ 400? I'm serious Also, Bike was biught second hand: chain is reaching limit BUT front and rear sprocket still look really good..looks can be deceiving I suppose. Is not changing the sprockets the stupidest thing I could do to a new chain? I think it is but I'm a child of generation WHY..... Thank you in advance
  3. Good Day, Can anyone recommend a replacement chain, and both front and rear sprocket to replace the OEM's? No hard riding done at all, half street and half dirt...just lazy rides on roads and trails. Brand names, etc. Thanks Chargerman
  4. Hi I've got myself a KXF250 2017 that I'm looking to change the gearing on, currently running 13/50 and the bikes got a huge hit of power off the bottom end and I'm looking to smooth out the power so I don't get that big hit all at once. I've been doing a bit of research and I'm thinking of dropping to a 48 rear, with only going down 2 teeth will this really make that much of a difference? I've also been toying with 14/48 to really try and smooth it out, what's people take on this? Long winded one but all advice is appreciated just can't seem to find answers to these questions anywhere Thanks
  5. In my search to setup my DRZ and XR as I wanted, I found endless topics on what gearing and handlebar setups are the best. Not only on the DRZ and XR forum, but all of them. There is really great advice but it always depends on what the other rider prefers, which is sometimes hard to gauge. While looking for my perfect setup, I found these websites, that helped me a lot. I am not affiliated with them or anything like that, they're tools I found that work really well. I haven't seen these linked on this forum yet, so I thought I would. The first is www.gearingcommander.com. It is a calculator for you gearing, obviously, but is has so many options and an enormous database of models. It lets you compare three setups, where you can change pretty much everything and gives info on top speed, rpm in gears at a certain speed, what -1 or +1 would mean for speed or rpm, but also the number of chain links needed, chain speed and number of chain contacts with the sprocket. For the DRZ you can even change the actual ratio for the gearbox, if you have an ACT box installed, to see what the effect is. The other is www.cycle-ergo.com. A calculator for riding position. After choosing a bike you can adjust handlebar, foot peg and seating position, seat height, and body posture. There's an option to view with a pillion, and to the enter your inseam and have the feet on the ground to see if you will reach. None of this info says anything about how it will feel to ride, but it lets you compare your current setup to what is suggested and get an idea of what to expect. The perfect setup is wholly subjective, so it can be hard to decide what advice to follow and this lets you see it with your own eyes. Saved me ordering a bunch of wrong parts. For the Japanese brands, if you're looking for high quality parts fiches, OEM parts numbers or OEM parts that are hard to find, www.cmsnl.com is a good spot to look. Again, not affiliated, just helped me out a lot. It is easy to find the part number for something you need, then look for that part number to what bikes have it. Sometimes the same part is much cheaper if ordered for a different model. They even stock the ball and spring that lock the passenger pegs on the DRZ-400S and SM to give you an idea of their selection. They consolidated all Japanese motorcycle parts dealers in the Netherlands, to make finding parts easy. They've been expanding into Europe ever since. The non-Japanese selection is growing, but isn't as big yet. Finally, a good reference is www.motorcyclespecs.co.za, which a database with all the basic factory specs for pretty much every bike ever made for every model year and variation, including a review on many models. I found it useful to see the differences between model years and variations, when ordering parts. Hope this helps someone with setup, riding comfort and parts!
  6. Hello, I am looking to replace my chain and sprockets. I had no issue on learning what I need and deciding my parts for the front and rear sprocket. But the chain, seems to be an issue. I read in the handbook that I need to use the same as stock (DID 520MXV T-Ring). But I can’t seem to find that anywhere. If someone could link me or guide me to the best chain for my 2005 CRF250X, that would be greatly appreciated. rhanks in advance!
  7. I bought a new chain and sprockets for my 04 cr125 and I cant figure out how to make it fit. Its too long so I was going to take a link out but then it'll be too short. Ive moved the adujster blocks from all the way forward to all the way back but it won't work either way. Chain and sprockets are all stock sizes.
  8. Hi guys, I have a 2017 YZ250FX. I want to put on a 12 tooth front sprocket and have purchased 2 separate ones from RockyMountainATV and my local shop (Vortex and Sunstar sprockets). I'm having the same issue with both of them. When I tighten the sprocket nut any more than finger tight, the drive shaft seizes. Seems like the sprocket is touching the engine case. The obvious solution would be that these are the wrong sprockets but both said they fit from the manufacturers. The spline pattern fits and the sprockets look identical to the stock one. If there's a difference it must be just a mil or two. I suspect a spacer under the sprocket would push it out away from the engine a bit and prevent the rubbing. Is this something that is possible / required for aftermarket sprockets? Did I just buy the wrong sprocket twice or am I missing something simple here. If I put the stock 13t sprocket back on I can torque the nut to spec without rubbing. My first bike so any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/957/48095/Vortex-520-Steel-Front-Sprocket?s=1058402 https://www.motosport.com/sunstar-front-sprocket
  9. Hello all! I winter-commute cross-town in my city; Uppsala, Sweden. Our city loves salting the roads in the winter. So much so that the chain and sprockets on my winter-commuter basically needs a bi-yearly replacement. It's either that, or face a chain sandwiched in three layers around the front-sprocket, much like what happened this year in early spring at rush-hour... No amount of cleaning and oiling the chain helps unfortunately. Besides, a daily wash with kerosene and re-oiling is just not practical when the thermometer shows -15 centrigrades... Flushing the chain with water daily to get rid of the salt, is obviously not a solution in winter for physical reasons (the whole effing bike freezes in an icy armour...). Replacing chains and sprockets bi-yearly is a cost that runs up fast, so even if a stainless-steel chain would be more expensive to buy, I'm thinking it'd still be cheaper in the long run if I could extend the replacement with a year or rather two. However, have you ever heard of stainless steel motorcycle chains? Or are they as rare as the fabled unicorns? Generic rusty motorcycle chain from https://pixabay.com/p-555162/?no_redirect. PS. This is no troll posting. It's a real problem for me. DS.
  10. Hi everyone, I have been having a problem with my CRF70F for a little while and after trying to make adjustments to fix it with no results I thought I would ask around. Also I have not found any answers online about this problem, one person claimed to have had the same problem but never got an answer and the question was almost 7 years old on the site. My problem is that my bike will continue making a "click" ing sound continuously while at all times when at idle and while driving. At idle, the sound is very slight and sometimes not noticeable, but when the bike is put into gear it does get louder and faster. Along with the sound, it also causes the bike to receive the power from the engine in "jumps" where something seems to be skipping inside the engine. If anybody has ever had this problem or has any idea what it could be any help would be very greatly appreciated. Thank-you
  11. Done over 20 hours track time on my 2017 TC250 now and rate it very highly, now the tracks are getting far too dry so started riding woods more. Initial thoughts are that i'm in 1st gear where friends are in 2nd (for hillclimbs and tighter sections), this could because they are running 18" rear wheels but would be good to see what gearing options other people are running. Suspension is obviously very hard coming from sand tracks so thinking i'll go for around 141psi in forks and click everything right back on the shock, dont know if its worth changing sag as I am small as hell and gets pretty awkward trying to get feet down at times! Has anyone put a map switch in the crimp connection under tank and noticed a difference? Basically any mods or changes anyone would recommend would be appreciated! Thanks!
  12. So my negligence has left me with several hooked teeth on the balancer drive sprocket (directly behind the flywheel on crankshaft). I need some help on replacing it. 1.) The manual states that i need special tool 09917-23711 (ring nut socket wrench) in order to remove the old one and torque down the replacement. I've seen the Suzuki branded tool for $114 - 180. There's also an undbranded one on ebay for $60. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Cranksh ... 2630!US!-1 If I can help I'd rather not have to purchase a tool I'm only going to use once. Does anyone have one they can lend me if I put a deposit on it? 2.) The manual also states that I need a Conrod Holder #09910-20116, I'm guessing that would stop the crank from spinning during removal and reinstallation. Is there any way I could get around this as well? I've seen a youtube video of someone locking up the piston by feeding a shoestring through the sparkplug hole. I'm not sure I trust that not to go wrong and have dirt/fabric in my cylinder. If I put the bike in gear and ratchet strap the rear wheel to the frame or something more stout, like a tree, would that prevent the crank from spinning? 3.) Also part # 12662-37402 Suzuki balancer drive sprocket usually runs about $130 new. Does anyone have a used one in decent condition they'd be willing to cut me a deal on?
  13. Second ride out on my 2014 kx450f first ride everything smooth, replaced my front sprocket and Chain roller (Rear chain cover is slightly rubbing on chain). On the lower left side i hear an occasional rattle when riding in all gears putting around. When I hit the gas hard and rip through the gears ur tends to go away. Also goes away when bike is stationary as well as just rolling in neutral. Chain and sprockets are new. could it be chain slap? Or worse something with my transmission? If so how would I go about fixing it considering it’s all new parts
  14. Bought New sprockets front, rear and new chain. Installed everything and the chain fits perfectly around the rear sprocket nice engagement and disengagement. On the Front its like the tolerances are too tight, really takes some pressure to wrap the chain around the teeth by hand. Rotating the tire by hand I can feel the resistance on certain links when some teeth don't engage or disengage the front sprocket smoothly because the teeth or chain links are just too tight. I let the bike idle and went through the gears it spins but you can feel something does not seem right, after a couple minutes I think its better????. Chain slack is perfect by the way. I am assuming after a quick ride to break things in it will stretch that little bit and be perfect. Is this assumption correct? Also paddle tire on the bike, otherwise I would of went for a putt up and down the street. (13/48 SuperSprox) (DID 520VX3 Gold X-Ring Professional Road Chain 520x120) With 1MM spacer (2007 CRF450R)
  15. So I was just curious about other peoples experience with using multiple different front sprockets on their street legal dirtbikes (My 2007 CRF450X is PA legal) for getting to and home from trails. My idea would be to carry a "highway" sprocket and a "trail" sprocket in my tool kit and swap back and fourth when going to/leaving the trails I would need to take highways to get to. I live in a redneck little city in NE PA and have to ride about an hour or 2 to get to any good trails. What I'm trying to figure out is since I ordered nearly the maximum length chain to fit my current off-road gearing with the adjustment on the swingarm having barely anything left but enough to compensate for chain stretch, what would be the maximum size sprocket I could fit on the front end (even if I have to remove the chainguard/case saver) just for highway/road use to keep RPM down and MPG up? I'm not interested in trying to remove the rear sprocket every time since not only are they hella more expensive but also a more time consuming process compared to swapping out front sprockets. Have people done this before? My biggest concern is with my trail gearing the bike is around 7.5k rpm at 65-70 mph, I don't feel like holding the bike at that high of an RPM range for 2 hours straight to get to a trail, that's just cruel xD
  16. Hi all, So I'm looking to perform my first performance mod to my 2020 CRF 250L. I just ordered a 13 and a 42 tooth sprocket. This is intended to replace my current stock setup which is 14/40. I'm not sure but I think the CRF OEM chain is 105 links or something. Will I need a new chain for these sprockets? Can I use my current chain with just one? Any and all info is greatly appreciated 🙂
  17. I am hoping to get some tips and advice on my recent purchase of a 2008 yz 250f. Before this bike I had an 02 wr426f. I switched to get a lighter bike that would be better suited for tighter trails and the track, and can definitely notice the obvious differences between the wr and yz. I am a novice at best, and am not an adrenaline junky either. I plan to do another hare scramble next year with the yz 250f after I get used to this bike. There is obviously a huge difference from the 426, and am wondering if i can close the gap between the two while maintaining some of the feel of the yz. Does this make any sense??? Do you have any suggestions on gearing or anything else that would help "smooth" out the low end power? I realize its already less intense than the bikes 2 stroke counterpart, but still wondering if there is anything that can be done? I do not need instant ripping power simply based on my riding style, but at the same time am not looking to putz through the trails and track. I was thinking of going up 1 tooth on the front sprocket, but from what I have read am now slightly concerned about that on the tighter trails that I ride. I don't feel the need to be the fastest rider on the trails or under any illusion that I will be getting "discovered" by anyone lol. I am 35 years old and weigh about 170lbs. I had considered dropping down to a 125, but think it wouldn't handle my weight well or might not hang in some of terrain that I occasionally ride. I appreciate any constructive advice!
  18. Hi all. I do apologize if this has been addressed, but I've been reading forums long and hard and have not seem to have gotten the answer I'm looking for. I have a 97' xr600r with 14/46 gearing. I purchased this bike used and I'm loving it. Fun on the streets and the trails. However, I'm not getting enough for highway use. It vibrates far too much by the time I'm high 40s+. 5th gear is like sitting on a dryer. :/ nearly impossible to stand. I've decided to purchase a 15t front sprocket. And on to my question... Will I need to alter my chain at all? Does the actual size of my chain need to change? Or can I keep the same size chain but play with the chains looseness? Thanks in advance! P.S. If you need more info or pics I'm happy to snap some.
  19. Here's a gnarly question for y'all: I drag race a 2001 Kawasaki KX500 2 stroke. Currently looking for some more top speed. With 16/38 gearing it tops out just under 100MPH, and currently need it geared well into the 120s as I am letting off and shutting the bike off around 1000 feet. Here's my issue: I talked to a few custom sprocket shops and the smallest sprocket they said I could fit on my bike was a 36t sprocket, and that wasn't even guaranteed. They claimed that they wouldn't recommend me paying for anything under 37 because they couldn't guarantee that it would work. Now, there is a solution, albiet an expensive one. Something called a "Quick Change Barnes Style Hub". Basically a hub with a tiny outer flange that would let me run sprockets into the low 20s. Issue with this is, the hub alone is over 600 dollars. Tie in a wheel, lace kit, and bearings and I am looking at over 1,000 bucks JUST in my rear wheel. Keeping in mind I am only about 750 bucks in this ENTIRE bike, does anybody know of a solution that would let me run somewhere around a 32t sprocket? Is there a Kawasaki hub with a smaller I.D that I could run and lace onto my existing rim? Or am I screwed with buying this expensive flat track hub that will let me finally get this bike into the 10s? ANY help is appreciated!
  20. My 2014 KTM 500 EXC is pushing 510cc, but it's not making the perfect hill climbing bike. My brother's motocross 2013 KX450F is much better. His first gear is nice and fast, his second gear can be run quite slow but also very fast, and his 3rd gear can be run pretty slow and super fast. My bike can't achieve this no matter what sprocket combo I try. My bike wants to keep the range of the first gear so short that it is almost unusable and the same goes for 2nd. Then when it is time to shift into 3rd that gear is too spread out. I can be on the rev limiter for 3 seconds and when I grab 3rd gear it will bog on me. If you are wondering I really don't think anything is wrong with the motor so let's please try avoiding answers like - "get your motor checked out". So far the best combination I have found for the purposes of hill climbing are a 15T on the front and a 47T on the back. This makes first gear somewhat usable, and 2nd gear has a ton of power, but it hits the rev limiter almost always and then grabbing 3rd gear just causes a complete loss of power. What is going on in a transmission that is causing this problem? Is there any hope to altering something to get what I want? I am willing to spend big money to get it. Let's just say that I am willing to spend $2500 at the drop of the hat for a solution. And no...I don't want a motocross bike because I want the advantage of the bigger motor 😉 In the attached photo I hit the rev limiter about right there. And at that spot my brother is still accelerating in 3rd gear. It just doesn't make any sense.
  21. I know front sprockets should have play to it but is this too much or is this normal?
  22. First post on here. I bought a 2020 YZ450FX I absolutely love everything about the bike except the gearing sometimes. I ride a ton of different terrain but I mostly ride with people who have 450f or similar bikes so we never end up in anything more technical then they can ride. I definitely have an edge in the woods but it’s not worth it too me because on the track 1st gear as people have mentioned is way too low. It also makes it difficult to work together on speed for jumps they’ll tell me oh I’m hitting it in 2nd wide open and for me I’ll have to be in like 3rd 1/4 to get the same result ect. Is there a good solution in changing the sprocket at all? Should I go up and use second as first or down and how many? Mostly would just like 2nd and 3rd gear to match up better with the Race model
  23. Hi folks, I pickup a DRZ last weekend, which has a rusty chain. So, I'm thinking to replace it, but don't want to replace the sprockets. Attached front and rear sprocket pictures for review. Please recommend what I should do with these. Thank you!
  24. I have a 2009 Klx250sf and am doing some dual sport modifications. I am having trouble removing the front sprocket. I am replacing the front sprocket, rear sprocket and chain. I went up to a 45 rear and kept the front at 14. I am turning the engine over and am unable to loosen it at all. I would have a friend hold the rear break but the rear tire and chain are not on the bike. Any suggestions or do I have to put the bike back together just to hold the rear brake? I am also running into an issue with putting on my barkbuster handguards because the ends of the bars seem to be plugged from the factory. I am tempted to drill out the thin plugs but am unsure what purpose they serve. Otherwise the only other way they would work would be to buy new handguards. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
  25. Hey guys, So I picked up a set of DRZ400E rims. I have been looking for ages for a set of these! I have an '08 SM model. So luckily these will bolt right on with all the standard DRZ spacers that my SM already has. However, I hear this might require me to interchange my rotor in the front, to a rear SM rotor (front one is way too big for off road according to a few DRZ forums I am part of). The 400SM models front rotor is bolted on though which might make that tricky every time! Is anyone riding an SM, who also interchanges to E rims when needed? And what is your setup currently to make the interchange as fast and painless as possible? Including sprocket / chain sizes. I want to be able to change between E and SM standard rims without wanting to Sparta kick my bike over each time! PS: On the more social / networking side of things... Subscribe to my new-ish Youtube Channel, JenSM, to watch Cape Town Supermoto adventures (new video is there!). I will also be working on a few other videos that include my Yamaha TDR180 Scrambler rebuild. Any other Supermoto Street Legal crews / Supermoto riders / DRZ riders to subscribe to on Youtube, lurking around? Link me to your channels so that I can check your videos out!
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