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Found 27 results

  1. Good Day, Can anyone recommend a replacement chain, and both front and rear sprocket to replace the OEM's? No hard riding done at all, half street and half dirt...just lazy rides on roads and trails. Brand names, etc. Thanks Chargerman
  2. Hi guys, I have a 2017 YZ250FX. I want to put on a 12 tooth front sprocket and have purchased 2 separate ones from RockyMountainATV and my local shop (Vortex and Sunstar sprockets). I'm having the same issue with both of them. When I tighten the sprocket nut any more than finger tight, the drive shaft seizes. Seems like the sprocket is touching the engine case. The obvious solution would be that these are the wrong sprockets but both said they fit from the manufacturers. The spline pattern fits and the sprockets look identical to the stock one. If there's a difference it must be just a mil or two. I suspect a spacer under the sprocket would push it out away from the engine a bit and prevent the rubbing. Is this something that is possible / required for aftermarket sprockets? Did I just buy the wrong sprocket twice or am I missing something simple here. If I put the stock 13t sprocket back on I can torque the nut to spec without rubbing. My first bike so any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/957/48095/Vortex-520-Steel-Front-Sprocket?s=1058402 https://www.motosport.com/sunstar-front-sprocket
  3. Hello, I am looking to replace my chain and sprockets. I had no issue on learning what I need and deciding my parts for the front and rear sprocket. But the chain, seems to be an issue. I read in the handbook that I need to use the same as stock (DID 520MXV T-Ring). But I can’t seem to find that anywhere. If someone could link me or guide me to the best chain for my 2005 CRF250X, that would be greatly appreciated. rhanks in advance!
  4. I bought a new chain and sprockets for my 04 cr125 and I cant figure out how to make it fit. Its too long so I was going to take a link out but then it'll be too short. Ive moved the adujster blocks from all the way forward to all the way back but it won't work either way. Chain and sprockets are all stock sizes.
  5. Done over 20 hours track time on my 2017 TC250 now and rate it very highly, now the tracks are getting far too dry so started riding woods more. Initial thoughts are that i'm in 1st gear where friends are in 2nd (for hillclimbs and tighter sections), this could because they are running 18" rear wheels but would be good to see what gearing options other people are running. Suspension is obviously very hard coming from sand tracks so thinking i'll go for around 141psi in forks and click everything right back on the shock, dont know if its worth changing sag as I am small as hell and gets pretty awkward trying to get feet down at times! Has anyone put a map switch in the crimp connection under tank and noticed a difference? Basically any mods or changes anyone would recommend would be appreciated! Thanks!
  6. Hi everyone, I have been having a problem with my CRF70F for a little while and after trying to make adjustments to fix it with no results I thought I would ask around. Also I have not found any answers online about this problem, one person claimed to have had the same problem but never got an answer and the question was almost 7 years old on the site. My problem is that my bike will continue making a "click" ing sound continuously while at all times when at idle and while driving. At idle, the sound is very slight and sometimes not noticeable, but when the bike is put into gear it does get louder and faster. Along with the sound, it also causes the bike to receive the power from the engine in "jumps" where something seems to be skipping inside the engine. If anybody has ever had this problem or has any idea what it could be any help would be very greatly appreciated. Thank-you
  7. So my negligence has left me with several hooked teeth on the balancer drive sprocket (directly behind the flywheel on crankshaft). I need some help on replacing it. 1.) The manual states that i need special tool 09917-23711 (ring nut socket wrench) in order to remove the old one and torque down the replacement. I've seen the Suzuki branded tool for $114 - 180. There's also an undbranded one on ebay for $60. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-Cranksh ... 2630!US!-1 If I can help I'd rather not have to purchase a tool I'm only going to use once. Does anyone have one they can lend me if I put a deposit on it? 2.) The manual also states that I need a Conrod Holder #09910-20116, I'm guessing that would stop the crank from spinning during removal and reinstallation. Is there any way I could get around this as well? I've seen a youtube video of someone locking up the piston by feeding a shoestring through the sparkplug hole. I'm not sure I trust that not to go wrong and have dirt/fabric in my cylinder. If I put the bike in gear and ratchet strap the rear wheel to the frame or something more stout, like a tree, would that prevent the crank from spinning? 3.) Also part # 12662-37402 Suzuki balancer drive sprocket usually runs about $130 new. Does anyone have a used one in decent condition they'd be willing to cut me a deal on?
  8. Hello all! I winter-commute cross-town in my city; Uppsala, Sweden. Our city loves salting the roads in the winter. So much so that the chain and sprockets on my winter-commuter basically needs a bi-yearly replacement. It's either that, or face a chain sandwiched in three layers around the front-sprocket, much like what happened this year in early spring at rush-hour... No amount of cleaning and oiling the chain helps unfortunately. Besides, a daily wash with kerosene and re-oiling is just not practical when the thermometer shows -15 centrigrades... Flushing the chain with water daily to get rid of the salt, is obviously not a solution in winter for physical reasons (the whole effing bike freezes in an icy armour...). Replacing chains and sprockets bi-yearly is a cost that runs up fast, so even if a stainless-steel chain would be more expensive to buy, I'm thinking it'd still be cheaper in the long run if I could extend the replacement with a year or rather two. However, have you ever heard of stainless steel motorcycle chains? Or are they as rare as the fabled unicorns? Generic rusty motorcycle chain from https://pixabay.com/p-555162/?no_redirect. PS. This is no troll posting. It's a real problem for me. DS.
  9. Second ride out on my 2014 kx450f first ride everything smooth, replaced my front sprocket and Chain roller (Rear chain cover is slightly rubbing on chain). On the lower left side i hear an occasional rattle when riding in all gears putting around. When I hit the gas hard and rip through the gears ur tends to go away. Also goes away when bike is stationary as well as just rolling in neutral. Chain and sprockets are new. could it be chain slap? Or worse something with my transmission? If so how would I go about fixing it considering it’s all new parts
  10. I have a 2009 Klx250sf and am doing some dual sport modifications. I am having trouble removing the front sprocket. I am replacing the front sprocket, rear sprocket and chain. I went up to a 45 rear and kept the front at 14. I am turning the engine over and am unable to loosen it at all. I would have a friend hold the rear break but the rear tire and chain are not on the bike. Any suggestions or do I have to put the bike back together just to hold the rear brake? I am also running into an issue with putting on my barkbuster handguards because the ends of the bars seem to be plugged from the factory. I am tempted to drill out the thin plugs but am unsure what purpose they serve. Otherwise the only other way they would work would be to buy new handguards. Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
  11. Hey guys, So I picked up a set of DRZ400E rims. I have been looking for ages for a set of these! I have an '08 SM model. So luckily these will bolt right on with all the standard DRZ spacers that my SM already has. However, I hear this might require me to interchange my rotor in the front, to a rear SM rotor (front one is way too big for off road according to a few DRZ forums I am part of). The 400SM models front rotor is bolted on though which might make that tricky every time! Is anyone riding an SM, who also interchanges to E rims when needed? And what is your setup currently to make the interchange as fast and painless as possible? Including sprocket / chain sizes. I want to be able to change between E and SM standard rims without wanting to Sparta kick my bike over each time! PS: On the more social / networking side of things... Subscribe to my new-ish Youtube Channel, JenSM, to watch Cape Town Supermoto adventures (new video is there!). I will also be working on a few other videos that include my Yamaha TDR180 Scrambler rebuild. Any other Supermoto Street Legal crews / Supermoto riders / DRZ riders to subscribe to on Youtube, lurking around? Link me to your channels so that I can check your videos out!
  12. I am hoping to get some tips and advice on my recent purchase of a 2008 yz 250f. Before this bike I had an 02 wr426f. I switched to get a lighter bike that would be better suited for tighter trails and the track, and can definitely notice the obvious differences between the wr and yz. I am a novice at best, and am not an adrenaline junky either. I plan to do another hare scramble next year with the yz 250f after I get used to this bike. There is obviously a huge difference from the 426, and am wondering if i can close the gap between the two while maintaining some of the feel of the yz. Does this make any sense??? Do you have any suggestions on gearing or anything else that would help "smooth" out the low end power? I realize its already less intense than the bikes 2 stroke counterpart, but still wondering if there is anything that can be done? I do not need instant ripping power simply based on my riding style, but at the same time am not looking to putz through the trails and track. I was thinking of going up 1 tooth on the front sprocket, but from what I have read am now slightly concerned about that on the tighter trails that I ride. I don't feel the need to be the fastest rider on the trails or under any illusion that I will be getting "discovered" by anyone lol. I am 35 years old and weigh about 170lbs. I had considered dropping down to a 125, but think it wouldn't handle my weight well or might not hang in some of terrain that I occasionally ride. I appreciate any constructive advice!
  13. Hi all. I do apologize if this has been addressed, but I've been reading forums long and hard and have not seem to have gotten the answer I'm looking for. I have a 97' xr600r with 14/46 gearing. I purchased this bike used and I'm loving it. Fun on the streets and the trails. However, I'm not getting enough for highway use. It vibrates far too much by the time I'm high 40s+. 5th gear is like sitting on a dryer. :/ nearly impossible to stand. I've decided to purchase a 15t front sprocket. And on to my question... Will I need to alter my chain at all? Does the actual size of my chain need to change? Or can I keep the same size chain but play with the chains looseness? Thanks in advance! P.S. If you need more info or pics I'm happy to snap some.
  14. Ok, I have a lifan 125cc pit bike on a Honda 50ccframe, I need new rear sprocket I need 35t,I can't measure what mm I need though, can someone tell me what millimeter 35t sprocket I will need, links are appreciated!
  15. My 2014 KTM 500 EXC is pushing 510cc, but it's not making the perfect hill climbing bike. My brother's motocross 2013 KX450F is much better. His first gear is nice and fast, his second gear can be run quite slow but also very fast, and his 3rd gear can be run pretty slow and super fast. My bike can't achieve this no matter what sprocket combo I try. My bike wants to keep the range of the first gear so short that it is almost unusable and the same goes for 2nd. Then when it is time to shift into 3rd that gear is too spread out. I can be on the rev limiter for 3 seconds and when I grab 3rd gear it will bog on me. If you are wondering I really don't think anything is wrong with the motor so let's please try avoiding answers like - "get your motor checked out". So far the best combination I have found for the purposes of hill climbing are a 15T on the front and a 47T on the back. This makes first gear somewhat usable, and 2nd gear has a ton of power, but it hits the rev limiter almost always and then grabbing 3rd gear just causes a complete loss of power. What is going on in a transmission that is causing this problem? Is there any hope to altering something to get what I want? I am willing to spend big money to get it. Let's just say that I am willing to spend $2500 at the drop of the hat for a solution. And no...I don't want a motocross bike because I want the advantage of the bigger motor In the attached photo I hit the rev limiter about right there. And at that spot my brother is still accelerating in 3rd gear. It just doesn't make any sense.
  16. Here's a gnarly question for y'all: I drag race a 2001 Kawasaki KX500 2 stroke. Currently looking for some more top speed. With 16/38 gearing it tops out just under 100MPH, and currently need it geared well into the 120s as I am letting off and shutting the bike off around 1000 feet. Here's my issue: I talked to a few custom sprocket shops and the smallest sprocket they said I could fit on my bike was a 36t sprocket, and that wasn't even guaranteed. They claimed that they wouldn't recommend me paying for anything under 37 because they couldn't guarantee that it would work. Now, there is a solution, albiet an expensive one. Something called a "Quick Change Barnes Style Hub". Basically a hub with a tiny outer flange that would let me run sprockets into the low 20s. Issue with this is, the hub alone is over 600 dollars. Tie in a wheel, lace kit, and bearings and I am looking at over 1,000 bucks JUST in my rear wheel. Keeping in mind I am only about 750 bucks in this ENTIRE bike, does anybody know of a solution that would let me run somewhere around a 32t sprocket? Is there a Kawasaki hub with a smaller I.D that I could run and lace onto my existing rim? Or am I screwed with buying this expensive flat track hub that will let me finally get this bike into the 10s? ANY help is appreciated!
  17. Hi guys I have a question I wanna buy sprocket , chain and I choose to go 49-13 I know the size of my chain needs to be 114 (rm 125 2004) but can I choose a standard chain or I need x ring , o ring blablabla...?? Im not doing anything competitive I just go casually in woods and tracks thanks in advance
  18. I've just put new chain and sprockets on my 2005 ktm exc 400. All the info I found says it comes with 114 links in the chain and as I went back to original gearing I went for that. Broke the chain down to that many links, had the new sprockets on, and the chain is upper super tight. The adjuster blocks are as far forward as they go, and I could barley get the chain on. I've counted three times the links and there are 114 like all the info tells me. It does look like at some point the adjuster blocks have been put on facing the other way? I've built it back up as it shows in the manual. Am I missing something, or is the 114 links just wrong?
  19. Hi guys, I am trying find a 420 front sprocket for my CRF230 engine. I contacted a couple sprocket companies & they said they do not have it. What I have been doing in the past is grinding the 520 sprockets thinner @ the teeth section & they work, but I would like to be able to find one if they are available. Any ideas? Thank you
  20. Years ago I was told to change both together or they will be toast in no time, I've always done it so not sure if it's true. My oring chain is beyond old and beaten, do I need to change both or only chain, the sprocket looks really good!
  21. Hello all hope I am posting in correct topic area. I have a 1985 Honda XL350R Dual carburetor with stock gearing 14 front 40 rear. First thing, my fuel tube was leaking so I bought an O-ring and gasket kit to repair. Tore down carbs and cleaned the hell out of them. I then eagerly test rode. Fired up in two kicks and ran like a champ. A day or two went by and I then wanted to take it for another spin. Started right up two or three kicks. Awesome! But after riding for about 5 to 10 minutes throttle response was gone. Idles fine, but when put in gear and give it 1/4 throttle it falls on its face and dies if I don't let up. What could cause this ladies and gents? Any knowledge and suggestions are very appreciated. Next question is gearing. I plan on doing 90% trail riding with it and if I get good enough would like to start practicing some tougher enduro stuff. Will this stock gearing work for me or should I re-gear to get a little more torque. I am new to the dirt bike/enduro world due to wasting 10 years on road bikes lol. Thanks, AVP89
  22. I have a leaking counter shaft seal and I've run into an issue that I need your suggestions on. In short the spacer will not come off. I've doused it with PB, WD, hammered on it. Won't budge. How can I get this out??? Tempted to drill a hole in the surface and wack it with a chisel. Not sure if I can drill that hard collar. How about putting heat on it? Thinking maybe a finely directed map gas torch could heat the collar with damaging anything. I can't tell if there is plastic on that tranny from the schematics.
  23. Currently have 14f-51r sprockets on my "18" YZ250X, would like a lot more low end, particularly in 3rd where I find myself in most of the trails/ST and races I do here in Ga......I know one tooth on front is like 3 on the rear so looking at significant change. I will lose some top end mph but can't remember topping out in 5th gear once.... would I be going way over board if I went to a 13 front and a 52 rear? I already have a 52 tooth rear ready to go on, but changing both sprockets and chain at same time and don't want to get the 13 front without some input from more exp riders. Pic is for attention and yes it is in the house....doesn't everyone keep their bikes in the house?
  24. 1st post/question on this forum hope i'm in the right place. I just picked up a 2003 KLX 125L and have a question: when going over it i found a flat piece of metal that appears to go behind the front sprocket cover and attach with the same screws. This piece was busted and I cannot find it on line to figure out it's purpose. Any ideas out there as to what it is and if it critical or if can just run without it? Seems like it is supposed to maybe help keep the chain on the sprocket but i have not seen this before and so am wondering, especially since i can't find anything about it on line. thanks
  25. forgive my great ignorance but im a new dirt bike owner and still figuring out how to navigate the internet. the clutch plates exploded during my last ride and so im trying to remove the clutch plates. however this bikes clutch plates are sealed in with a spanner nut. im trying to figure out what size spanner nut i need for the clutch removal AND the oil slinger. ive heard 20mm and 24mm but whenever i look it up i dont actually find it advertised for this bike.
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