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Found 28 results

  1. Recently picked up an ‘03 450 sxf and took it up to the trails without any issues. However recently I rejetted the carb and since then the bike stalls out when I pull the clutch in fully. I’ve adjusted the clutch cable and that didn’t seem to fix it and also reinstalled the original jet. The bike also feels like the engine is braking when no throttle is applied even in higher gears. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  2. Evening all, I have a 2011 YZ450 with a WR box and weighted flywheel, the bike has been taking in recently and fully serviced including shimming; the clutch has been looked at an is all within spec. The problem I'm experiencing is after about 10 minutes of riding whenever I hold in the clutch the bike dies, any ideas? Thanks Brad
  3. I recently purchased a brand new 2015 CRF250X. Since purchasing I installed the JD jet kit, and completed the air box mod. I live and ride in Kentucky, between 800 - 1200 feet above sea level, with the temperatures ranging from upper 70's to high 90's. I followed the JD jetting instructions and replaced the stock main jet with a 158 main, the pilot jet was changed with the 42 that came in the kit, and I replaced the stock needle with the red needle, with the clip in the fifth position from the top. I also removed the stock air mixture screw and replaced it with a R & D racing flex jet fuel screw backed out 1 3/4 to 2 turns. The bike has completely stock exhaust, with the OEM air filter. The bike seems to run alright, but there are a few things that I have some questions on. Before doing the mods to the bike you could pull the hot start lever all the way in and the bike would die. But now since doing the mods the bike will idle faster once the hot start lever is pulled in all the way. The same thing happens with the choke lever. Once the bike is good and warm if you pull the choke out the bike at first doesn't really do anything, but once you give it some throttle it will idle faster. The bike now has a backfire problem, which I never noticed before I did the mods. The backfire isn't necessarily a high pitched loud popping sound, but more of a low sound, almost like a large amount of air is being forced out. I've noticed the backfiring mainly happens when decelerating, or when dropping gears too quickly. My 250X does have the smog equipment attached. If I stall the bike while out riding it seems to be very hard to start, and most times I have to pull in the hot start lever to get the bike started. Before the mods I never used the hot start after I stalled the bike. As I try to restart the bike back it makes the same backfire noise like it does when I am out riding. The idle speed seems to not stay consistent. I'll warm the bike up and check the Works Connection hour meter and it will be reading around 1800-1900 RPM. Once I've been riding for some time, and come to a stop, the RPM meter will be reading more in the 1700 range. The RPMs at idle don't stay constant, I find myself adjusting the idle screw a few times while out riding. I am also having the problem of the bike randomly stalling. For example, I could come to a stop with the clutch engaged, sit still for a few seconds, and when I give the bike a little rev it will stall and die. The throttle doesn't even come open when it stalls, I just barely give it a turn and it will die. Like stated before, when this happens the bike is hard to start back, and backfires when trying to be started. I have tried playing around with the fuel mixture screw, but nothing seems to correct the problems I am experiencing. The bike seems to run fine other than the stalling and backfiring. I am not sure if changing jet sizes or clip position would correct the problems I am having. I have tried researching these topics, but nothing seems to be like what I am experiencing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  4. I just recently went with a friend to purchase an '01 YZ125. The bike had just had an engine rebuild and a clutch replacement. I'm new to two stokes, and this is the first one I have ever ridden/worked on, so this is all new to me. When we were in the process of test riding the bike, I noticed that every time we fired it up, pulled the clutch in, and shifted into first gear, the bike would stall. The (previous) owner had said that the bike probably wasn't warmed up yet, and "sometimes" did that when it was cold. I had to give it about quarter throttle when I shifted into first gear to get moving. I also noticed the clutch was pretty stiff, but that could be due to new springs? The bike shifted through all the gears fine, and the clutch seemed to work when I shifted back into first and came to a stop (bike didn't stall). Any ideas on how to fix this? I'm going to disassemble the clutch and check it out. We just got the bike, so I haven't done much testing/diagnosis yet. All I know is that my four stroke never stalls when put into first, even if it's not warmed up at all.
  5. So, my 2015 Wr450f had a FMF Powercore 4. The bike ran flawlessly, never stalled out and had tons of power. But, the neighbors didn't like how loud it was so I switched back to the stock exhaust with the pea shooter in it. The problem is, it is having lots of trouble starting, and stalls whenever you open the throttle somewhat quickly. I have the competition ECU and tuner, and throttle stop removed. Any ideas on why it runs so poorly with the stock exhaust? Too rich? Too lean? Anybody have their WR running good on the stock exhaust?
  6. Got a 2005 DR-Z400S with only 2500miles on it a couple of days ago. It's in really good condition appearance wise and runs fine for the most part, has supposedly been sitting barely used for a few years. Will run fine for several miles at a time, but will suddenly begin surging and stuttering, as if throttle is cutting out momentarily, then if I release the throttle the engine usually just dies and refuses to start up without dying again within a few seconds. If it's sitting idle at the time the problem occurs, I can hear the engine begin to drop revs and sound less consistent, then it usually dies after about 10 seconds even if I try to keep the revs high. While this is going on the throttle also feels less responsive. If I then just wait at the side of the road for about 5 minutes, it'll usually then start right up first time and I'll be on my way for another couple of miles until it happens again. The distance I've managed between compulsory stops has varied between about one mile and ten miles. It's happened when the bike's idle and when I've been doing 70mph on the motorway, which was great fun. Any thoughts on what the culprit could be? Thanks a lot
  7. I just bought a 2002 drz400s with 10,000 miles on it. When I picked it up I only took a quick spin around a parking lot , not enough to notice any of the things I notice now. It had been sitting a while before I bought it (I bought it from a shop) so before the owner would sell it to me he took the carb all apart and cleaned it out. When I got it home, I put some new fuel in it and fired it up, it seemed like the idle adjustment was quite high. I backed that down a bit and it seemed to run ok for a little while. (bike hasn't even been running 30 minutes total since I bought it last week) now I notice the beginning throttle delivery seems very jerky and it seems like the bike is struggling early on and then gets better higher in the RPMs. I mistakenly left the petcock on prime the night I brought it home and had to change my oil today because I could smell gas had gotten into it(first time drz owner...lesson learned.) So I put mobile 1 20w-50 in it and a new filter and started it up to take it for a spin. It starts ok (not great), idles high on half and full choke as expected and then when off choke it has a kinda rough idle and if I blip the throttle half of the time it will just shut off. I don't want to turn this into an oil thread but is it possible 20w-50 is too heavy for the 50 degree temps outside? I know there is a vast amount of drz knowledge on this site so what do you guys think about whats going on? It has a stock exhaust, no 3x3 and as far as I know stock jetting, filter looks good (I am going to pull it and clean it anyway) and I'm about 500ft above sea level. Hopefully this info will help the drz gurus make some suggestions. Like I said this is my first drz so maybe the kinda instant jerk followed by seemingly lagging power delivery is normal for these, but coming off of any other bike I have ever ridden it seems a little strange to me.
  8. Jenness18

    2018 Rmz 450

    Hey guys, Went riding at my local track this past weekend, 2018 Rmz 450. Got on the track jumped a Step up, in mid air bike shut down, landed rolled into corner. Started the bike rode it about 30 foot died again. Did that about 6 times till I could get to the truck. Trying to find the issue but not getting very far. I’ve had people tell me, Stator, Capacitor, Coil, and fuel pump. Hopefully this has happened to someone. Bike has compression. 35 hours on complete replace and rebuild. Thank you
  9. I have a 2005 CR250 and it runs really well except for one issue that I've been having over and over again. When I'm on the throttle the bike is responsive and feels crisp, but when I'm coasting down hill or off the throttle in general the bike will out. I've learned to just avoid by working the clutch and keeping the RPMs up, but it increases fatigue and arm pump really fast and it's a bitch during a race. Also, I have great midrange in the power band right now, but the low end could improve, and the top of the power band is very flat. I've pulled the carb apart and cleaned it multiple times, but after awhile the same issue comes back. The float gets stuck and the bowl fills with gas and chokes the bike out. If I leave it in the trailer with the fuel petcock on it will piss gas out of the overflow, and it doesn't like to idle for longer than about 30 seconds unless you're hitting the throttle. I've tried throwing a flywheel weight on so I can ride in single track conditions and get the low end pull but the stalling issue remained a problem. Would it be better to just go with a Keihin carb and run different jets, or does the smart carb really give you a better ride? I'm considering putting a Lectron Carb on there so I can just be done with always trying to rejet the POS Mikuni, and I can freely ride from elevations of 1000ft - 6500ft without dealing with a finicky carb, it's got me pretty annoyed by now. I've heard really good things about the Lectron so far and I'm curious if any of you guys have tried them out? If so what did you think? Do you think it would help get some more low end out of the bike and remedy the stalling out? My skill level is intermediate to advanced, I ride in the Central California area mostly between Carnegie and Hollister SVRA and race District 36. Mostly into hillclimbs, single track, and woods riding.
  10. Hey guys, I believe I have some "Auto-Decompression" issues. It happened randomly and suddenly on the way home from work a week or so ago; I came to a stop sign and heard a "plop plop clack clack plop bluh" and she died. Started back up, drove around and then when I was slowing down again, "Clack clack plop plop bluhh ded" like it was mechanically failing at low rpm idle. It does not happen every single time it idles, but just often enough to stop riding it for fear of really &%$#@!ing stuff up. I didnt get a video of the clack clack plop plop upon engine failure very well but it makes the noise on start up as well. My Climer manual doesn't have info about the auto decompressor but I have heard it's an issue that sometimes happens. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/2008/XR650L+A/CAMSHAFT/parts.html I think I'm looking at replacing #6, #10, and #5 on that microfiche. Can anyone confirm this is a problem that exists or do you think I have a different issue? I want to get some feedback before I start tearing into it. 🙂
  11. Heyo! I have a 2008 DRZ400SM with around 12k miles on it. The bike has been having issues starting lately, so I was hoping someone on here could help me trouble shoot. I'm able to get the bike to fire up fairly quickly, it will idle between the upper 1500s and mid 1700s (rpms) for a few minutes before the rpms begin to drop about 100rpms/sec before stalling out. I pulled the petcock out and checked that the fuel filter was clear of debris and it was. I also pulled the carb out to adjust the fuel mixture screw. It was only a half turn out. I turned it in to snug and backed it out 3 full turns, reinstalled, same issue. I pulled the carb back out and rejetted it. Previous jetting: Red Needle from JD Jet Kit, clip at 3rd position down, 160 main jet, 25 pilot jet. After Rejet: Swap to Blue Needle from JD Jet Kit, clip at 4th position down, 160 main jet, 25 pilot jet (carb was clean and jets were not clogged, fuel mixture screw remaining at 3 full turns out). Bike fired up instantly after rejetting, but after multiple minutes of idling (1600+/- 100) the rpms again dove and stalled, fan kicked on and coolant in overflow. *While trouble shooting this I have been adjusting the idle screw to keep the idle rate at 1600+/- 100 and will blip the throttle from time to time. 50% of the time I blip the throttle the rpms will stay up around 2500 or so and will take multiple seconds to drop back down into the normal idle range.* I threw my helmet on for a quick test spin around the neighborhood. The rpms seemed much higher than normal, ranging between 2500 and 4000, including when the clutch was pulled in. The rpms seemed to be "hanging up" and not falling back under 2k. I didn't go above 40 mph or above 3rd gear, most of the time I was in second gear. I pulled over to put the bike in neutral, the rpms finally dropped, but down to around 1400 and then 1100 before stalling. It took multiple seconds and a good twist on the throttle to get the bike to fire back up. I went straight home, put it in neutral and the rpms dove again and the bike died. I live in North Carolina, low elevation, hot and humid climate most of the year. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  12. So i just recently bought an old 2001 cr250. Had some old gas in it and drove it around, worked great. I accidently ran it right out of gas, then today i bought amsoil inerceptor oil and high octane gas, mixed it 32:1. But today it didnt run right, kept stalling and lacked power. Any tips?
  13. Hello carburation experts. I put a JD jet kit/3x3 mod in my 2017 S a couple months ago and everything has been great - except when I am working the bike over technical stuff, slipping the clutch and cutting the throttle when I pull the clutch in . For some reason I have not been able to determine, the bike stalls. It also stalls if I am idling with the clutch all the way in going downhill. It's worth noting, that under ordinary riding conditions (on the street) there are no issues - no stalling. The bike idles smoothly, the power at low rpms is strong and smooth and it runs smoothly all the way up to pinning the throttle (in every gear). I have adjusted the fuel screw in increments from lean to rich and this seems to make no difference. I have also adjusted the idle speed using the cable stop screw so the bike idles at a faster speed, but this also makes no difference. I'm a crap rider and riding over roots and rocks is hard as it is, but doubly so when the bike keeps dying every time I slip the clutch. Any thoughts you have would be much appreciated.
  14. Great info here, new to the forum. Have a 2017 FE 501 under 10 hours. Had the persistent issue of hard start up and flame out at low rpm only on decel, 1,2 gear. Bike is desmogged, has Blaise Racing tuner, adjusted to open exhaust per instructions. Also pulled reed which for a warm day had no issues. Once cold, the flame out began. Suggestions? Thanks
  15. Any carb experts out there? Just got my 2001 DR Z400S back after it was sold to a buddy in 2009. It sat for a long time and ran real rough when I started trying to ride it again. I took the carb out and took it apart, cleaned it and used a Shindy carb kit. It starts right up, cold without needing the choke (strange). The engine sounds and feels like it did in 2001, nice. Then I test rode it around the area, 30, 50 60 MPH, all good power. I come to a stop and the slightly high idle slowly drops over about 5 to 10 seconds of time. First time it happened I got it started after a lot of cranking and throttle positions and some half choking. It started only at half to full throttle, after some choking. Second time it stalled out nothing would start it so I walked it home just 1/4 mile. What could be the problem? I did replace the fuel petcock with a manual one and sealed the vacume hole on the carb. That petcock will be another story. (beware all those side exit ones on ebay!) Really appreciate any help.
  16. I have a 2017 TX 300. Loving it so far, amazing really. I have one issue left that I can't find a solution for. In short on long steep downhills it stalls. I can keep feathering the throttle but it's a bit annoying when it's super technical. I have read this is an issue with many 300's. Anyway, thoughts, ideas and solves out there? I have 21 hours on the bike, just changed out the spark plug, it's looking rich, however it's the original plug so it was started before the JD kit, before the FMF 2.0 (for spark arrestor) and before the V force reeds. With the JD kit I had the blue needle in and for my altitude. Since it's getting warmer and getting into more technical riding I did swap it out for the red needle. Thanks all, will post under jetting as well.
  17. Hoping someone with a lot more experience than myself might be able to help me out. Make: YZ450F 2012 model EFI Symptoms: idles for a minute or two and then stalls when hot and I back off the throttle it stalls after stalling when hot, takes lots of kicks to start again, when i remove the plug and dry and clean it the bike will start more easily What I had done to it before it started this: bike seized due to chain tensioner wore out and travelled up into the cam chain and head. replaced piston and cylinder (aftermarket Athena installed) assembled head with new valves and springs new cam chain set valve clearance replaced clutch (basket as well) After less than 10 hours, the stalling was happening too frequently to ride without losing my calm so I took it to the shop again. They spent seven hours trying to diagnose the fault with no results. reset cam timing and checked flywheel key found small amount of water in oil cleaned injector and air mixture screw checked crankshaft position sensor checked coil and cap replaced spark plugi inspected TPS, APS, atmospheric pressure sensor and kill switch It was getting too expensive to leave at the shop any longer so I am trying to have a crack at it myself. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm going to try to do a compression test or leak down test this week. Also, has anyone made up the test harnesses for this engine?... I'm not keen to buy a gytr tuner to test the sensors again if I can avoid it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  18. I recently replaced the freewheel bearing behind my flywheel and the electric starter motor. The first ride after the bike had a little trouble with the E-start (like KTM's do) but would eventually go. However, it would only hold an idle for about 2 minutes (hot or cold). The next ride, the E-start would not engage but the exhaust sputtered as though it wanted to. Half way through the ride the bike started to stall with the clutch all the way in. It was a pretty hot day and a pretty hard trail. When I first bought the bike it had very similar issues but seemed to be fixed by cleaning the fuel injector and replacing the fuel filter. I also run non-ethanol fuel. I thought this might be a fuel injector problem again, so I sent it out to be professionally cleaned. The tech told me the flow rate was fine when it came in and not much better when he was done, so he believes this is not my problem. I don't have it back yet, so I'm not sure. A friend sent me something regarding a potential fuel pump problem but I couldn't read it because it is the forum of "Orange Only" and I'm not allowed to enter Pat's iron curtain. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas? Please and thank you.
  19. I just purchased a new 2017 KTM 450XC-F and really love the thing. I rode a buddy's 450 and knew it was the bike I was looking for. My 250 just wasn't doing it for me in the power department and I'm not fond of revving the bike to get what I need out of it. It starts fine, but it takes a couple of seconds for it to start up. Not a big deal for most, but I need it to start much quicker to be competitive for harescrambles. Looking up the battery, it doesn't tell me anything about turning amperage or anything of that sort. Curious to know if anyone has replaced the stock lithium battery to get something to be competitive off the line and what they found to be useful. Secondly, I really love the clutch on the bike. It's silky smooth, but once in a while the bike just flames out and it drives me nuts. I don't want to get a Rekluse, but I can't have it flaming out on me every 30min or so. Has anyone had issues like this and fixed it? I've heard the TPS may be something to look into, but don't want to start changing things drastically for a smaller issue. I prefer to get a good baseline of the bike and make tweaks here and there.
  20. I've been troubleshooting my bike for a month and cannot figure out what I believe is an electrical issue. It seems that there is enough power to start but not enough to start moving under a load. Here is where I'm at: bike starts easily and idles fine, but when I put in gear and give it gradual power it stalls i have a rekluse clutch and I can put in gear and let off clutch and it will continue to idle fine while pulling slightly if idling for about 45 seconds it just dies. It can be started again with one to two kicks air box and filter clean checked woodruff key...in good shape havent checked carb yet...I don't think it is a fuel problem but maybe? a year ago replaced coil and spark plug cap. When troubleshooting past week the wire pulled out of boot and there was slight green corrosion in wire...cut back wire and reconnected/sealed/zip tied, got spark. Before that fix no spark. tried to follow service manual to test coil with Fluke multimeter...I get .016 vdc with negative connected to black/yellow wire on coil with positive to frame (per manual) but that doesn't seem right since it says it should have 100 vdc minimum. replaced stator about one year ago...haven't tested yet. did a quick check of wiring harness...couldn't see any obvious damage battery is old and needs to be replaced...I have an aftermarket LED kit on front and rear this week I'm going to take apart, inspect, clean and put diaelectric grease on every connector and test for continuity where I can. please help if you can...I'm about ready to start buying parts and am worried I'll be wasting money replacing good parts and still have issue.
  21. Very much a Newb, so needs some help. My bike just bought this spring second hand with about 22,000 km on her, gets hot (and I don't know hot it really is supposed to get) while I'm riding around town. Not a lot of traffic where I live, some I'm sure would find it laughable. She'll get right warmed up and die on me sometimes, and I know when its coming because I can hear the rpm slowing right down usually when I'm stopped at a light. If I stay on the throttle a bit it will keep running otherwise she'll thump thump thump die. Mind you this doesn't happen all the time, cold days mostly (5 - 12 C). Any advice goes a long way, don't know anyone else who rides in person. Thanks by's
  22. Hi all, new member and I'm hoping someone with much more expertise can help me out with a problem I've just started to see with my new-to-me 2009 DRZ-250. I bought it only a month and a bit ago and it has been going great, but there are two problems: The battery isn't charging. It was flat when I got it so I bought a new one and charged it up which held for a while, but it doesn't appear to be charging up while riding. Luckily it starts first kick when cold so this hasn't been a major issue, but I mention it here in case there might be a relation with the next problem A few times recently after some longer runs it has been going along just fine but then when backing off the throttle a bit it sputters a bit then conks out completely. Every time this has been after a decent run when it should be nice and warm. After a short rest it starts and goes on as if nothing has happened. The first time it happened was after a long run up some fire trails (maybe 20km but with a number of stops along the way) the other day and it just randomly stuttered a bit then conked out completely after a longer run on the way home in a thunderstorm. After a few minutes of rest it started from the kick starter with choke out and then rode off as normal, before conking out again a few kms later not far from home. Again I tried kicking it over a few times without success straight away before resting it maybe 5 minutes and then starting it up first kick and heading off again. Both of these times my son was riding it. Today I took it for a run about 10 kms up the road for a test and after running along flat out for most of that time, I eased off the throttle to go around some corners and it sputtered a bit then recovered, before conking out completely seconds later and coming to a stop. No firing or sputtering during this phase, it's just like it had lost power, revving the throttle had no effect. As before I tried to start it again quickly without success, then left it siting for 5 minutes or so and it started again no problem. Exactly the same thing happened on my way home after giving it a rest for an hour or so in between. So my question is has anyone seen this type of thing before and do you have any suggestions as to what I could check? My first thought was dirty fuel, but I would have expected more sputtering and burping before and during conk out, when really it behaves just like the key has been turned off. Could it be a heat thing? Are there sensors that could be being tripped perhaps that reset after it cools off a bit? Apart from this it runs like a demon so I'm reluctant to start pulling it apart too drastically, but any ideas appreciated. cheers!
  23. Greetings boys and girls, I recently became the proud owner of my very own KTM! A 2009 690 Enduro R (sitting just under 10k miles). I have lusted after this bike for many years and finally had the extra cash to pick one up. However, it hasn’t all been good. In the very short period of time I’ve owned it, it has left me stranded 3 times! I have been playing catch up on all the previous owners maintenance that he had “deferred” and in the process, trying to accomplish the mods needed to make this rig more reliable. I’ve got to say that when it is running, it is probably the most fun thing on two wheels. It eases the sting a bit for when it breaks down. Anyways, I digress… lets get down to the current issue at hand. Current Problem: Click here to see a video of what it does Once the bike is fully warm, usually after I have been riding around for 1-2 hours, the bike will all of a sudden start to sputter (as if it is suffering from a fuel cut) and eventually after a few moments it will die altogether. The problem can be more quickly brought on if I am riding around town in stop and go traffic in the hotter part of the day. The bike will start right back up again but will generally sputter and die again within 10-30 seconds if you continue to ride around. Or if you start it after it initially dying and let it idle, it can idle for up to a minute before it dies on its own. The main thing to take away from this is that it only does this when it is really hot. (usually 4 bars on the gauge, that’s as hot as it ever gets with the fan switch mod) I should also mention that there is no blinking FI light. Secondary problem: Sometimes when you start the bike the dash will flash the wheel size measurement on and off: “LENGTH 1870” and a couple other symbols for a few seconds to half a minute before it displays the speed and all the regular information. I don’t think this is related to the issues but I thought I’d make mention of it. Current mods and notable part replacements: *Akro Slip on *K&N drop-in air filter *Power Commander V with tune for pipe and intake (from Rottweiler) *CA Cycle works Fuel pump (less than 200 miles on it… the OEM one died a couple days after I bought the bike) *New in tank fuel filter (bike does not have an inline filter) *New KTM injector (less than 100 miles on it… old one dribbled fuel causing hard starting after sitting) *RR Manual Cam Chain Tensioner *New NGK spark plug *KTM Twins Low temp fan switch *-15 Exhaust Rocker *Valves recently lashed and are in perfect spec *All the emission components are removed What I’ve done so far: *Completely disconnected the Power commander from the bike and ran the bike in stock ecu config- the problem still occurs *Checked all electrical connections and took apart the bike and went over the entire wire loom - no defects noted *Checked the battery with a multi meter with the bike off and running, battery appears perfectly healthy both static and running *Swapped back to the old leaking injector – problem still occurs *Disconnected the tip over sensor – this causes an FI light, the problem still occurs *Disabled the kickstand sensor with a dongle – the problem still occurs *Replaced the voltage regulator with a nice mosfet unit, didnt fix the problem but the regulator runs so cool now! *Put a meter on the ignition coil and spark plug connector, both of these values read almost dead nuts in the middle of the specified range *Put a meter on the stator connector, the manual says the resistance should be less than or equal to 1 ohm at 68 degrees F. Both my measurements read 2.1 ohms, but its also about 80-85 degrees in my garage... so I'm not sure if this is acceptable or not? Possible ideas: *Throttle Body Sensors/ blade gears - This is something I'm hesitant to get into since if I mess with it and take it to the dealer I wouldn't want them to blame me for messing with it. I only say this because my dealer told me that KTM has warrantied complete throttle bodies for 690's before- even on older bikes like mine. *Fuel pump – God forbid this would be the issue since I just replaced this… but it seems like the bike is suffering a fuel cut and I know that they tend to have issues when they get hot… but every time this problem has occurred I’ve had at least 2 gallons of gas in the tank… I also triple checked my hose routing when I installed the new fuel pump/ filter and made sure it didn’t kink as it went in. *ECU failure - just grabbing at strands here... maybe its fudgin up when it gets hot for some reason. _________________________________________________ Sorry for making yet another 690 thread… Thanks for reading this, ANY input is appreciated. I will try to keep this organized as I remember to add things so it is somewhat easier to read over. THANK YOU
  24. Evening all, I have a 2011 YZ450 with a WR box and weighted flywheel, the bike has been taking in recently and fully serviced including shimming; the clutch has been looked at an is all within spec. The problem I'm experiencing is after about 10 minutes of riding whenever I hold in the clutch the bike dies, any ideas? Thanks Brad
  25. Ok this is my first post so please give me a break if I am doing something wrong. I have a 2009 Drz400sm I just picked up recently. It has fmf exhaust, big bore, hot cams, fcr carb, 3x3 mod, raptor petcock, and i'm sure a few other things. I was aware that the bike had a bad idle when I bought it and it would die if you didn't keep the revs up with the clutch in. I fixed the loose throttle cables and it seemed to clear the idle issue up for the first ride after that. Soon after that it started to have a bad idle again. Now the bike will not even start. It turns over but just will not start. I tried to hook up a battery box to the battery and that didn't help. The battery is charged, the spark plug is new and sparking, the air filter looks fine and it seems like it may actually be getting too much fuel because there was fuel on the plug. It was having some overheating issues when it was running and I checked the coolant to see there wasn't much in there. Filled it up with new coolant. I drained the oil the next day and it was creamy colored. I imagine that it was coolant in the oil because the coolant level dropped significantly in the radiator. I checked the valve clearance and intake are over spec slightly. It measured .18mm (.15mm is max spec for hot cam). The exhaust clearance is in spec. I know the intake is a bit out of spec but I don't think that is why the bike isn't starting. Between the milky oil, the rough idle, not starting, valves out of spec, i'm honestly not even sure where to start with finding the issue. I haven't torn apart the carb yet because the guy I got it from said he cleaned it but I am wondering about the jets that are being used. Please if anyone could help me out some it would be greatly appreciated. The starter will turn all day but the motor does not want to turn on.
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