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Found 40 results

  1. 1hp

    starter rebuild fun

    Rebuilt starter today. What an aggravating SOB that is. Anyway, for anyone brave or cheap enought to attempt this, hold the brushes out with a coiled strip of thin plastic. Slip the armature inside the plastic and pull strip of plastic out. Good luck.
  2. My 2012 starter is turning over the engine at an ever decreasing speed: Facts: - engine is warmed up - fires up at laziest first kick - freshly charged battery or brand new chared LIPO battery: same result. At the beginning of last week (start of an off road vacation) it would rev well enough to light up the engine. With every day it seemed to turn over the engine at a lower speed. Last couple of days it became kick start only. Purchsead a BOSCH charger (adjustable from 0.8A till a whopping 3.4A) and charged both the stock battery and the brand new LIPO (shido something). No change. What is the groups verdict regarding a 6 year old WR450F starter motor? Or is the starter relay developing resistance? Should I get a new stock starter? Or should I replace the brushes only? Should I get one of them Arrow-aftermarket things? TIA
  3. Hi all. Spring is coming and with it trail riding season. That being said I’m getting my bike ready and was wanting to undo what the previous owner has done. I bought my bike without a starter and it’s components. I’m not concerned about “saving weight.” What I would like is to be able to start my bike in awkward places on the trail when needed. I never received any parts with the bike that is involved with the electric start. It appears that everything from the wiring to the components in the case are missing. What all parts would I need to put this system back together? Maybe someone who has removed their electric start system years ago has one laying around that they might part with? 😅
  4. 2006 DR650 The issue began suddenly one day when I was running the bike in the garage. I started the bike with a battery tender attached, it ran for a while, then I turned it off. When I tried to restart, nothing happened. Everything seems fine, all the electrical works fine, the battery is fine (I tested it), the 30A fuse is also fine. I bypassed the starting solenoid and the bike starts right up, so I assumed the solenoid was bad and replaced it with a new one. It still won't start. I may be missing something obvious, but I'm stuck. The only thing different is that I started it with the battery tender attached, which I've never done, but I read that's ok. Why will it only start when the solenoid is bypassed?
  5. Hey everyone! We’re a small company called Nuts and Bolts Development and we created the first ever electrical starter kit for the Yamaha XT 500 and SR 500. It was designed to be really easy to install without requiring any permanent changes to your favorite bike, and you can keep using the kick if you want to. We are really excited about launching this product and hope to make using the XT and SR easier for everyone. The kits are now on sale on our website. If you want more information, like our page, visit our website (both linked below), or feel free to message me directly. I’m posting this message because I believe it might interest some of you. https://www.facebook.com/Nuts-and-Bolts-Development-104141728060441/ https://nutsandbolts-france.com/?lang=en
  6. I have a 2009 XR 650L that has 2K miles on it. It's been sitting for 2 years, as I can't ride anymore. So I was hoping to get it all ready to sell. I live in Montana and it has been cold as heck all Winter. I did not pull the battery prior to the cold, so I wanted to replace the battery (which was dead) with a new one. Seemed easy enough. So I made sure the new battery had a full charge and installed it. Cables are all clean, tight, etc. I get all my dashboard lights; neutral light, etc. But when I try the electric start button, absolutely nothing happens at all. Well, the Neutral light dims a little while pushing the button. But nothing more. I've replaced all four of the 10a fuses. Also the single 20a fuse, located right next to the battery. Still nothing. So now I have reached the end of my knowledge base. So I am hoping the group can offer some help? I am assuming I'm just an idiot and something is being overlooked. Or that it is most likely something fairly simple. But I don't know where to begin looking. Appreciate any help you all are willing to offer.
  7. Anyone know where I can get a shorter kick starter for 2009 YZ250F - want the faster spin to help starting. Happy to look at another bikes kick starter or modify stock version or buy an after market shorter version. Just cant find any options at the moment.
  8. Ok, I idolize, worship the new 2018 YZ450F (new for me because I bought it late in the year). Haven't had any starting issues or had to use the new starter plunger until the winter temperatures crept in. I keep it in an off and on heated garage, but in the morning it's cold, and would not start so easily anymore as it did in the summer, where I never before had to use the starter circuit. The F.S.M says to push the plunger all the way in, then hit the starter, and let the engine run/rev at 3000-5000rpm!!! for 1-2 minutes. Then, your supposed to operate the throttle, as the chop throttle direction is supposed to kick the plunger back out to its N.O.T. position. I did exactly this, but, when I operate the throttle, the throttle close direction DOESN'T kick the plunger back out. The engine was revving at about 3100rpm for only about 40 seconds, when, to my dismay, I looked down at the engine & exhaust pipe; the exhaust pipe exiting the cylinder port was glowing so hot I swear it was almost molten! Screaming inside my head, I quickly grabbed a pair of long slip joint pliers to pull the plunger back out (or else I'd no doubt brand myself on the glowing exhaust), and the motor rpm dropped to a more conventional warm/idle up speed. I then had to accelerate the water pump briefly, then cut the engine. I waited a few seconds, and started it up again, and varied the throttle slightly. I repeated this a few times in order to cycle the motor, and safely remove the heat conduction thru the cylinder head. My YZ450F runs great, post incident, and has more power than ever now. My only issue is now I have to always have a pair of pliers when cold starting the powerhouse, because the throttle and starter plunger still don't communicate. I DON'T let it run for more than like 15 seconds on fast idle anymore. My question is, WHY did the pipe heat up so much if that is how long it's recommended to fast idle, AND does anyone else have this issue with their starter plunger sticking, or had their pipe heat up orange hot? I went to the dealership to correspond with the mechanics there and no one was able to give me any information. Please, ONLY 2018+ YZ450F owners need reply on this thread, as it is a BRAND NEW starting device on a fuel injected engine for Yamaha, so other instances or experiences will not apply.
  9. Hi there, this is my first bike and I'm having a blast learning about it. Took a spill this weekend and one of the wires going into the clutch housing was severed. Not sure what it does or what I need to order to replace it. I'm able to get the bike started with the electric starter (as long as I'm in neutral) and it seems to run fine, so I'm not sure what the impact is yet. Any ideas? I'm a DIY-er with my Wrangler - this is a new world though, so if I need to take it to the shop, I will. Just curious if its something I can easily fix. Thanks in advance!
  10. So here is the story. I picked up a 2011 KTM 350 xcf. When I got the bike it would start with the E start but it seemed like it was cranking over very slowly. Within the next week it started not cranking over unless I kicked the kicker down a notch until I heard the fuel injection engage then hit the button. Now I just hear a click when I press the button. So I went and picked up a new battery because this one seemed old and I just wanted to try that first. I put the battery in and it fired up right away. Seemed like it was working as it should. However, It only fired up like that one time, and since then I have not been able to get it to crank at all. I found some burnt connections from the voltage rectifier, so I cut and replaced them, I also replaced the rectifier. Still nothing. I just tested that I have power from the batter down to the starter, everything is good there. I don't know where to go next. Im thinking it could be a bad started but then the battery working right away is throwing me off. I charge the battery though and nothing works. Any ideas? It's driving me nuts! Thanks in advance.
  11. Anyone have a feel for where Suzuki is at on there late model DRs as far as the known factory flaws (loctite fixes)? Picked up a 19 with 500 miles on it but I’ve never had one so new. I’ve heard mumblings that some of the issues were resolved in the late 2000’s but I’m not sure if that was true or if it was just lazy people who didn’t want to take the time to make it right trying to feel better about the reliability of there bike. Any help or advice would be great. The bike is a clean slate and I’m ready to get my hands dirty.
  12. Hey All, Have a 1995 TTR250 RAID that needs a new starter as the original was discarded and replaced with a jury-rigged starter motor well before I got the bike. That worked ok for a 6 months before it burned out. Changed the starter motor gear cover and got a Chinese aftermarket starter motor that didn't last much longer - the metal in that starter motor was so soft that the teeth stripped. So I'm thinking this time around to go with a used OEM starter. Sure, I don't know the exact condition of anything I get but the aftermarket starter motors don't seem to hack it and OEM, even used OEM should be better...I would think. Thoughts and opinions appreciated. Thanks!
  13. I need some help figuring out what is going on with my bike. I have an 04 WR450F, and I was riding 5 miles of hell over the weekend. Right before the last escape route (lucky me) my bike just died. I was starting up a climb, and right at the base, it just shut down. I didn't hit anything, don't even think there was much of a bump or anything to jolt the bike. I did have a few lay downs/get offs before, but nothing here. The light on the power button wouldn't turn on, and there was no power to the headlight. I found out that I could kick start it, but it was very difficult, it took a LOT of kicking before it would start, and then it would stall if I ever let off the gas. As I was trying to figure out what was going on, I saw some white plastic (?) pieces falling out from under the headlight/front number plate. I pulled off the headlight and saw an electrical part (I assume it's like a resistor or something like that), it looked like it had been jarred loose, and got pinched by the steering, and broke it. It is a white rectangular piece, looks and feels sort of like hard plastic, about 2" long, 3/4" wide and probably only about 1/4" thick, and has 2 male quick connectors on it. Inside (since it broke, I could see, usually you wouldn't, but maybe it will help figure out what it is), is a thin wire coil, like a spring, and I'm not sure what it is wrapped around, maybe just an insulator. I tried to wrap it with some electrical tape to insulate it while riding back, but it melted the tape, and was smoking. I'm not sure where the 2 wires that connect to it go, they go back into a cluster of wires on the wiring harness, and I didn't have time to cut it all apart, and follow them, but that is the only damage that I could see, so I'm hoping that if I can figure out what this part is, and find a replacement, that will fix my problem. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks,
  14. My son has a 2016 KTM SX-F. He has an intermittent problem with the bike not starting. This recently started happening about 30 minutes after he has been riding, then it will not start for the rest of the day. The next morning it starts and the same thing happens again. When the problem happens, the starter turns over until the battery dies, but it appears that the power relay output (pin 4) which is connected to Pin 1 (Orange Wire) of the diagnostic connector stays at 0 VDC. We stumbled across this when we were checking the fuel pump for power. The control line for the relay (Pin 1) that comes from the voltage regulator (Pin 1) only changes from 13 VDC to 12.9 VDC when the starter button is pressed (probably not enough difference to activate the relay). Then following the signal back from the input of the voltage regulator (Pin 3) to the starter button, this voltage goes from 0.00 to 0.25 when the starter button is pressed. I'm thinking that it may be the voltage regulator, but I don't have enough experience to be sure (of much). I'm trying to attach a schematic below with my color coded notes. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. If this is answered in a different thread, I'm sorry to repost. One other thing to note is that when it is running the starter relay gets very hot to the touch and you can smell it heating up, which I'm pretty sure it not a good thing. Thanks again. Dave
  15. I’ve been wanting to get into dirt bikes for a while now, my uncle has been riding since he was 7 and I find it to be awesome. My step dad says he wants to start too. I’m 14 5’10, and I weigh 180, a little on the chunky side. I want to start but I don’t want to over pay, I also want a bike that will last me a long time and something I won’t outgrow. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  16. Do someone has experience with the installation? Procedure specifiy to remove the engine....I plan to remove some coolant, put the bike to ground on the left side and do the job..... Thanks
  17. Greetings Thumper Talk community, I've been using a 2002 DRZ 400 S as my daily driver all winter long without any kind of problems. Starting last week I have found the battery being depleting enough to not turn the starter motor. Using a jumper box I was able to get it running. After having the battery tested and replaced I assumed the problem was solved. Unfortunately this does not seem to be the case as the problem persisted. Checking with a multimeter and with the key in the OFF position there was no significant amp draw. So I'm not thinking there is a parasitic ground. Checked the stater and rectifier both seem to be in working order and with the bike running I could measure the voltage of the battery slowly increasing. Starting with a full charge by tender and 2 days of sporadic riding the battery is now down to 11.6 volts.. when I attempt to start it at 11.6 volts the neutral light heavily dims, and the starter motor sluggishly engages then stops. Assuming the new battery isn't faulty I am thinking there might be some short that is opened when the starter motor is engaged. But honestly I've no idea. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Side question: what voltage is required for the starter to start the bike? It was at 11.6V with the key in the off position and could barely turn over.
  18. I'm having a problem with my starter on my Suzuki Djebel 250 (bought and own in Cambodia). If I let the bike set for 2+ hours, to start the engine, I have to push the handle bar switch button in until something heats up and activates the starter. The longer the bike sits, the longer I have to hold the button in before it starts; and the problem is getting worse. I'm afraid eventually it won't work at all. Have replaced the brushes in the starter and the solenoid so far and nothing's changed. Any thoughts, suggestions, or solutions out there?
  19. Hi, I was wondering if there was a way to install an electric start on a 1992 Honda XR250L. I'd do it more as just a project for fun. Stupid question, what would happen if you put an electric motor connected to the kick starter gear. Could it possible work? Also, is it bad to "drill start" your engine (use a drill or electric motor on the flywheel)? Thanks!
  20. I read a lot about some people having problems with their TE 310 but I guess I thought "that surely will not happen to me, right?". Well I took my new/demo 2012 TE310 for its first real outing. We did some technical trail riding today and I started having problems after the bike heated up. First, the electric starter just quit working, not sure if it is a problem with the starter or with the battery (supposed to have a new battery in it when I bought it). When I would turn the key on you could hear the pump still kick on even though the electric start would not work. Then sometimes when I would kick it over it had a weird feel to it, like when I kicked it over the starting was trying to turn as well. The bike would not start, but if it caught at all it would backfire very loud. Then I could kick it over and would usually start. After I rode for about another 45 minutes I noticed the bike did not want to idle. I had to really stay on the gas and the clutch to keep riding. Engine seemed really hot and the cooling fan never turned on. Bike then did not want to stay running, if I slowed down it would not idle and would shut off. When it was still hot I would try to kick it over, I could get it to start but would not stay running and sometimes would backfire (again loud) not start. Do not know what to tell the dealer, what to look for, and what I might try. Dealer is a long way away, very disappointed and frustrated. Any help and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
  21. Hey guys, though I'd throw it out there and see if I can get any suggestions on chasing an issue with a friend's 2006 DRZ400s... Issue started with the speedo cluster flickering on and off, then it went off and now there is nothing happening when I turn the key on. The bike is stock with the exception of LED turn signals that have been on the bike for years. Checked the battery and it's good, after a full charge, I started checking fuses, connections, wiring behind the headlight and everything seems to be in order, checked the ignition switch and it seems to be working fine. Did a current check on the battery and it has a draw of around 19/20mA, not sure if this is normal or not, I have a Claimer manual that states 1mA is normal, so not sure if this is part of the issue or not. Has anyone ran into this issue??? Does anyone know how to check the speedo cluster for shorts or any faults? Any and all help and suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
  22. hi all, i have searched the web quite a lot to find out if i can resolve my issue. I have a fairly old honda CRF250x 2006 that has done me wonders! just the other day, i stopped the bike to wait for a mate and then the issue presented itself.... what happens is that i tried to use the electric start...it turned and turned but did not start. i though to rather save the battery i gave it a kick start. When i tried to give it a kick, the kick start seems to have a jam/resistance by the starter motor or something, it did not go down freely and was difficult and slow to go down (made like a whining noise almost)- the bike turned over- there was compression etc. it eventually stopped doing this by me using the electric stat and the kick starter at the same time after about 5 minutes i have narrowed this down the an issue with the electrical start. but my mechanical knowledge of these things is not on form. I am just wondering what the issue is here? it is happening intermittently- i really don't want this to get me stranded somewhere from from the cars. could it just lie in the fact that the starter motor could be doing this? what other things could this be? any advice or help on this would be much appreciated!
  23. so i was out riding my ttr 230 and it was running fine as usual for about 10 minutes and then i was going up a hill and it just bogged out and shut off. its electric start only so i tried to start it to go up the hill and it wouldnt turn over, i pushed it up the hill and let it sit for a few minutes and tried starting it again and it wouldnt crank over the light would blink when i pushed the starter. so i tried to bump start it and it didnt start, i tried again and it started and it would idle but when i gave it any gas it would sound terrible and want to bogg out and die. so i just put it in 4th or 5th gear idled it home. the next day or so i went out a tried to start it and the little light didnt even light up when i turned the ignition on. im pretty sure its something to do with the ignition so if anyone knows whats up ill take any advice. i rode it feb-april about 3 times a week about 30 miles a ride with no issues and it sat over summer for a few months and thats what happened my first ride out. thanks in advance
  24. Posting this for everyone information. I have as I believe many others have, always had issues starting my 2012 (same for 2012 thru 2015) WR450 with the electric start. It always started good the kick start. I tried different CO settings, and different maps to see if that made a difference. I found that my bike would start best with a CO of 5, but with the bike in natural and the starter knob pulled out it was still a poor starter. Not pulling the knob or leaving it in gear guaranteed it would not start. About 2 or 3 weeks ago it got real bad, it would either turn over very slowly or not at all. No chance of the bike starting. So I bought a brush kit for the starter and went to replace them. When I opened up my starter I noticed two small pieces of my armature had broken off and ruined the cummatator (the part of the armature that the brushes make contact with). So I had to get a new starter. I decided to also put in heavier gauge wires for the starter. I bought 4 gauge welding cable (although not as flexible as previous welding cable I bought) to make the new starter cables. My bike now starts with e-start with ease. In gear, without the starter knob, and very quickly. The starter sounds to be turning over much quicker than it previously was. The downside to having the heavier gauge wires? More weight, didn't weight the cables, but I'd guess they weight 1/8 to 1/4 lb more than stock. Stiffer and fatter cables, makes routing more difficult (around the battery). I expect it to be harder to change my clutch cable with the starter cables in place. I couldn't find a proper sized boot for the starter positive lead. I did find a PCV boot that works, the cable end was too big so I put heat shrink tubing over it. Would be nice to have a proper boot. Hope someone finds this info useful. I wish I had done this when I bought the bike.
  25. I currently have a 2004 ttr225 and it used to work fine. Last summer I noticed the headlight would get touchy and only work when the handlebars were turned. After we stopped to take a break i noticed the starter only worked when the headlight was on, I figured out the headlight was actually dependent on the starter as it was wired off the ignition wiring. Anyways, now the starter will work when I directly run a wire from the battery to the starter, and the bike runs fine when I bump start it. I have found 2 wires that dont seem to lead anywhere and wonder I'd anyone knows what their purpose is. The wire in the first picture is connected to the fuse in the top left of the second picture
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