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Found 21 results

  1. 2008 crf250r dirt bike I bought took forever to start when I test rode it and wouldn't idle very well so I cleaned the carb which seemed to help the idle problem. It still took a few tries to get it started both hot or cold so I got a new plug for it which seemed to help a little more. It still takes 4-5 tries to kickstart and I have to rev it slightly as I kick but when I do it starts right up. Is this just a little trick like some bikes have or is there a greater problem that needs to be checked?
  2. Hi all, I have a 2004 honda crf250r and it wont start hot at all. The motor was just rebuilt with a new cylinder and piston. The valves were just adjusted. It will start cold in 1 or 2 kicks with choke but as soon as it gets hot it wont start. If you bump start it the motor will just turn over without starting. sometimes it will start. It runs great until you shut it off. im thinking its either a fuel issue or an electrical issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Buckle in this is a long one. Any advice is appreciated! I have a 2011 RMZ 250 that has done me very well for 4 years. Has been a very reliable bike with lots of power. Last year it started to act up a bit, slightly less power & became more difficult to start, especially cold (side note: it’s a Suzuki so it’s never started great cold but usually 3 or 4th kick was the case). Still ran okay though & fiddled with the fuel screw a bit which seemed to help with the starting/power issue for the rest of the season. This past winter we pulled it apart, put a brand new piston in, checked the valve clearances, moderate amount of carbon build up on the valves which we cleaned off, and put in a new spark plug which is also in spec. Bike still wouldn’t start great cold but was starting on about the 8-10th kick and power seemed to be improved although not 100%. I’ve take it for quite a few rides now and broken the new piston in and am having more issues: -won’t kick over cold at all but bump starts just fine -will kick over first or 2nd kick when warm but NOT when the bike starts to get even slightly hot -very little top end power. Bottom of the gears seem to be full power and the hotter the bike gets the less power I have in the top end -bike began to backfire quiet a bit when hot -won’t idle in gear when hot Any advice on what to replace/trouble shoot next? I had a buddy tell me it could be a worn out injector so that’s what I’m looking at replacing next. Thanks!
  4. Auto-Decompressor Question - 1995 XR600R (Single Carb model) I'm perplexed how the auto decompressor system works - is the fact that the first several kicks are compression-free, indicative that my system is working as it should? The previous owner removed the manual decompressor cable - so that is not operational, but apparently the auto decompressor is operational. For the first 4 or 5 kicks my bike has no compression. Then apparently the decompressor disengages and on that 6th kick, there is full compression for a couple strokes, then back to no compression. The bike starts very well - in just a few kicks, runs super well, and has amazing power. The lack of any compression for four or five initial kicks though confounds me. I experimented and found that if I loosen the right side exhaust valve so that it is apparently appropriately gapped to the top of the decompressor mechanism instead of the top of the cam lobe, I get full compression on every kick, but the apparent valve lash makes an awful racket - so obviously I know I need to keep the valve adjusted in relation to the camshaft lobe. Other possibly related conditions: 1) When riding, I notice a minor occasional misfire - which makes me wonder if the auto decompress is intermittently engaging during riding. I don't think its a bad seating exhaust valve, due to the aforementioned valve adjustment test. 2) I've taken the head cover and cam off and noticed the cam lobe contact surface for the exhaust valve rocker arm next to the auto decompression assembly has had scoring.
  5. When I first got this bike the people were 30 mins late and they said they were getting gas... and they rode the bike to me where we were meeting (strange because they drove an hour to meet me). They had to be trying to start the bike for that entire time. When they rode the bike over to me I shut it off and started it about 4 times and ran fine. No popping/ fluttering. I drove back home and I cant get the bike to start since then. I contacted dude and he said it was very hard to start and he said make sure the fuel pump turns on (these guys are not mechanically inclined to the slightest. The bike was missing lots of bolts) He claimed he replace the stator and for them to get the bike to start they hooked it up to a car battery to jump it; which took about 10 mins with 2/3 throttle. Since then I have checked: -Took fuel pump apart, the filter was slighty dirty so I cleaned with break cleaner. I also have gas in the fuel line. Also fresh gas (pump 93). Also swapped tanks completly from a running bike (2014 yz250f same part number tanks and fuel pump). - Cleaned throttle body and made sure I was getting a good stream of gas through the injector. - Getting good consitant spark. - Took connections apart and filled with dialectric grease - Checked fuses - Checked the valves They were way out of spec and I am suprised it ran like it did with the valves that far from spec. I will revisit this today to make sure I didn't do something wrong. Clearances I used were Intake: 0.12mm-0.19mm Exhaust 0.17mm-0.24mm (Motor smells burnt as well) - The battery has a voltage of 12.3 - Compression was about 85 (did not use a leak down tester) - took the fly wheel off to make sure the key way was still there. - I tried jumping it off the car just like the other goons did out of anger. Nothing. Then I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it started and ran like shit and had to keep the throttle about half way. After I did this when the starter is on the bike it makes a grinding noise when I kick it. When the starter is off the bike, the noise no longer exists. While I had the starter off the bike the shaft moved freely. Then I hooked up a negative to where it bolts to the motor and a positve to the connector and it worked like it should with out any noise. I think I need to solve the starting noise before I can dig into the root problem of the bike not starting. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
  6. 2001 WR, Runs great when pop-started but refuses to catch on kickstart. Carb is brand new OEM and screw is 2 1/2 turns out. Stock jetting, bike is uncorked pipe/airbox and big bore 300cc? or 290 kit.. otherwise stock.. I've heard about maybe checking intake valve clearances for this issue? I know the starting procedure for these.. de-comp and tdc etc.. i used to start my 01 426 no problem. Any help is appreciated!
  7. I'm new in this forum but I've been searching anonymously from long time so its the time I had to create an account to ask a question. I live in the middle east (Bahrain) The Honda XR's are rare here, luckly I found one to buy .. 2000's in a great condition. Now its been 6 months since I bought it. Few days ago I notice it starts weak and low idling, but after riding it for few miles it runs back okay and normal. I'm not an expert in dirt bikes but my guess would be cleaning the carb ? And since I don't know how to do that I'm asking the question here hopefully someone provide me with the right decision. I can post a video if needed.
  8. I am looking for advice, my yz250f 2009 has had a issue for awhile now were as I can turn the bike over with my had quite easily. I have yet to do a compression test but am confused, the bike altough low compression does start eventually. easy cold but sometimes first kick hot but other times I'm there got 10-15 minutes. when trying hot it wants to start were it is almost starting everytime but I feel it just needs more compression to start. I have put new spark plug in and jetted carb to where I think it is not longer the problem. no shavings in the oil filter, what should I do ? put new piston and rings in it???
  9. I recently bought a 2005 Rmz 250 for $1850. The bike's in great shape all stock. When i went to buy it and test ride it he had it firing first kick. I loved it, so i bought it. When i got it home i could not start easily. It took at least a minute of kicking (which is ridiculous coming from a 2 stroke), but it was very easy to bump start. About a week later i was messing around with it and i got it to fire between 1-3 kicks. What you do is slowly kick through until you feel a little click (TDC) then slowly go roughly half way down until you feel a sorta soft spot. Come up and kick all the way through and it should start from 1-6 kicks which is a HUGE improvement from from kicking and kicking until it would start. Hope it helps. I couldn't find any forums explaining hoe to start a 04-06 rmz 250.
  10. I have a 2013 350XC-F and during a Dirt Wise class after completing the riding instruction portion of the class my bike would always have a hard time starting like it wasn't getting fuel. Yes the bike was warm generally around 150 degree's F, it had fresh fuel with an ethanol delete in it which I always put in all my toys. The only remedy I found was to unclip the fuel line which a small amount of pressurized fuel would shoot out, reconnect it and it would start. I replaced the inline filter during class and the "o" ring and still when it got warm and then was shut down for the verbal instruction in class I would have to repeat these steps. It does have a fresh spark plug in it, bike is maintained to spec, I race hare scrambles with it when I'm not training or practicing with it. I've never had an issue until now. Don't know what to start on next to fix this, even Shane Watts was a bit puzzled by it's gremlin other than that he said my bike ran great. Thank you in advance for any help.
  11. Hey all..my first posting, so please be gentle, I have a 2004 DR-Z 400 'S' and having trouble getting it started as of late. Battery has a full charge with good, clean connections. All electronics and lights work properly, but when I hit my electric start I get nothing, and sometimes it starts right up. I'm thinking a loose connection somewhere. I was going to check all the wiring from start switch on down...perhaps the solenoid? I know it's simple enough to check, though I thought that I would run it by here first to see if there is something that I'm completely overlooking. Apologies if this was already covered as I didn't see it in the search thread...thanks all!! Best, Chris
  12. i have a very beautiful 2004 kx125, i picked it up a few months ago and when i got to the guys place to check it out, he started it by foot like normal and i rode it around the yard and about 500 feet i went and brrrrrrrr it fouled the plug??? but it was 1800$ so i was like heck with it im still getting it to the looks of the condition and claimed recent rebuild. i took it home and we replaced the spark plug and we had to bumpstart it this time. again 500 feet and brrrr fouled. this bike has a BRAND NEW mikuni carbourator OEM with jetting and airscrew position on point, Timing is perfect, i even tried advancing and retarding the timing, still nothing. i put it back in its normal position though. Reeds are good. no gasket leeks. good compresion. spark plug is BR9EIX NGK. it gets a spark, its getting gas, its getting air. when i try and start it, it back fires sometimes a loud pop. carb should be out of question, timing should be out of question. what else is there to check? i have talked to a few people saying it might be either, crank seals, or the stator. but i have NO IDEA of what to do. please help me i know u guys might know what to do, im 15 and trying to get into mechanics and i try to be the best mechanic i could possibly be with my hard earned tools. 4/1/17 ill be checking on any comments or suggestions every 8 hours or so. and i also dont want to buy new parts for the bike that it doesnt need. Thanks for reading! give me your best shot, I accept any help!
  13. Heres a strange problem for the community, I have a bike thats failing a compression test but passes a leak down with flying colors... 2012 KTM 250 SX-F Valves spot on, clearances spot on New cam chain Dirt Tricks cam chain tensioner HAS fuel HAS spark 4% leakdown on the leakdown test FAILS compression test horribly Thoughts?? I am flat out stumped...
  14. Just wondering if anyone who owns a honda cr250r, "mine is an 03 super clean". When cold starting I am having to use the choke, I am sure back in the day about 2004-2008 I had no issues starting from cold without choke how ever maybe I always used the choke and forgot. But since refurb the bike with out choke when cold will not fire as soon as choke is on first time start. I have recently changed the plug still no difference. Is this normal or should this bike be starting from cold without choke?
  15. Hey guys, I recently dumped my KTM 690 in a rather large mud puddle. After washing it A LOT, and cleaning out the wires/battery under the seat I have found a new problem, it won't start as it should. It starts occasionally but most of the time there is a "buzzing" or "squealing" sound coming from what seems to be the fuse box when the starter is engaged. Has anyone else had this problem? Everything else seems to be running properly, though I have heard the buzzing noise most of the internet seem to attribute to the "fuel pump" priming, it sounds more like a solenoid to me but I'm not well versed in electronics. Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance. The youtube link shows the starting issue
  16. My 2008 raptor 250 has never started right. It nevers hit right away, and if its just a little cold it will not come close to starting. I have bought a new starter battery and selonoid and it still doesnt start right and if i keep try and keep starting it will break the selonoid, and i will have to get a new one, which has happened 3 times. It will start but, never has right so what do i need to do so it doesnt keep blowing my selonoid and so it starts right up. btw the motor and everything is perfect it just doesnt start right.
  17. Hi everyone, I bought a ’87 XL600R running and riding about two weeks ago. A few days later I was struggling to start it. I checked for spark which it didn’t have and while doing some diagnostics I found the stator had low resistance (140ohms vs the range in my manual 230-320 ohms). I picked a new one from RickyStator and threw that in with no luck. I then got some advice from a relative and replaced the spark plug wire which did fix my problem, I fired up the bike and took it on quick rides upwards of six times that Sunday (new bike, woo!). Monday I go to fire it up again and the bike refuses, no spark again. Tuesday I clipped the end of the wire and got it to spark again but not start. And today, Friday, I’m stuck with no spark. So to cap this all off I have a couple of questions: 1. The manual I have says I can check the primary and secondary coil resistances for the ignition coil but its for an 83-84 and the coils changed over the years, so I have no idea how to check it. Guidance on how to check these values with a multimeter would be great. 2. Is there anything else you would try? Ive seen lots of talk about faulty CDI’s but it never seems to be the final problem with no start bikes. If so, steps to check this unit would also be greatly appreciated. 3. A fresh link to a free download a more current manual would be fantastic… if there is one. Thanks in advance, Ben D.
  18. Ok new here, before everyone goes off yes I have tried the search function and I can't come across a situation like mine bought a 2000 drz-400e about a month ago and it ran fantastic started really quick with the electric start and idled smooth. One day it was slow to start up but eventually went, then while idling at a stoplight it died. Pushed it up a parking ramp and bumpstarted it, it still wouldnt idle without dying. This continued for about a week until it wouldn't start on its own at all so i replaced the battery thinking it went bad and would no longer hold charge. Even with the new battery it would not start on its own, and the next day it would not bumpstart any longer. I should also point out i had put about 3 tanks of gas through it at this point. I pulled the carb and inspected it, also checked my oil for fun and there was too much and it smelled like gas. I read that sometimes the float valve gets stuck causing gas to leak in the oil so i took the float bowl off and inspected the valve to see if it was operating properly, it was, then changed the oil. also checked spark while everything was off, spark seemed good arced a good half inch away from block. reassembled, still no start. decided to replace spark plug because i was out of ideas, no change, wouldnt start or bump start. sprayed a little starting fluid into the spark plug hole and didnt even get a pop. my next thing is to check compression but I dont think it would have slowly died the way it did if my compression is poor. I am out of ideas and would appreciate peoples help thank you, keith ps still has acct (skipped tooth and timing messed up?)
  19. im a 13 year old girl (turning 14 in a couple of days). Since i was 10, i have had an interest in motocross so a couple of months ago i decided that it was time to try it. About 2 1/2 weeks ago me and my dad got a deal with a motocross club close to where we live. I had 30 minutes to get instructions and to ride. After 10 seconds on the bike i loved it. I took all the things the instructor told me in, and enjoyed my 30 minutes on the bike. After the 30 minutes - that became to 45 because of how much fun i had, the instructor told me that he was impressed, and that i am already horse steps ahead of the other (few) girls in the club. On that short amount of time i learned all the basics. Gear, clutch, brack and i nailed it all (okay a little to much confidense ;-)). my top speed was 18.5 MPH on a 85cc in 2 gear. My question(s) is: -Am i to old to start? -Do i have time enough to become a pro? I know its hard to answer, but i have NO idea if i still have time enough to become a pro. I think my advantages are that: -Im a girl (so the competition isn´t just as hard?) -I have a lot parent support. My dad is totally ready to go out and buy a dirt bike, and to help me learn how to fix it and all that mechanic stuff. -I am fearless. Im "not carefull" on the track. Its just as fast, as high, and so "technic perfect" as possible. -from i was 8-11 i rode the horse (i feel like it helped my body position). I am one of those "if i want it, il get it persons", so to get in shape for the season 2018 im training fitness 3 times a week, shape and strength. I will be able to start riding in march. until April i will only ride 1 time a week. From April to August i will ride 3-4 times a week for four hours each time, and probably go to a summer motorcross camp. From August to march i can only ride 2-4 times a month. And thats my "year circel" :-). So do you think that i have a chance of becoming a pro in my 16-20 years old years?. If i keep on training hard, having the economy, and really wanting it?. Thanks in advance :-)
  20. I have a Honda xr650r that i bought. I converted it to street and it was running perfectly for 3 months. Fuel started pouring out of overflow one day but it would still run fine. It was intermittent and when it was pouring out of overflow, it would drain the tank if stopped, but if I was riding it wouldn't leak so it was just at stoplights and when starting it. Also, she had always started first or second kick, no choke needed since I'm in hot Texas. Other times, I would open the petcock to start bike expecting it to leak but it wouldn't, next day it would overflow.. you get the idea. But other than that, it ran perfectly. I rode fine for a few more weeks and then I rebuilt the carb using the same settings. 68S pilot, 175 main, B53 comp needle. I noticed several of the screws were stripped, gaskets were bad.. so I got on partzilla and ordered all new internals for the carb. But all the parts were the same OEM parts that i was replacing. I also replaced the entire petcock assembly and fuel filter (also OEM). However, now it will not start at all. Not even a whimper. It is getting a spark, compression is good. Have tried for 2 weeks. Fuel is also still pouring out of the overflow which is what prompted me to rebuild it in the first place. The float height is what is should be but even when I adjust it to where it should be shut off, it will still pour. I havent changed the tang on the new OEM but Ive been experimenting using the old float setting different heights and it has fuel poring out when set at 25mm and when I go the opposite way to 8mm, so it doesnt make sense. The needle and needle jet are not jammed with trash as I replaced those parts as well and have verified everything is clean. I wish I would have gotten a new 2019 XSR900 but Ive already spent so much money converting this to sumo and upgrading suspension and rebuilding other areas of the bike. Im about to just sell it and cry because I feel utterly defeated. pics to show example of my work. Also tried attaching them to this post https://imgur.com/a/S2PFlV9 Im pretty meticulous and exacting which is why Ive never had anything like this happen. Any Ideas?
  21. Hello. So i recently put my motorcycle back together and it worked great : started easy, rode really good and everything was bueno. The next day i go to start the motorcycle and it didnt start no matter what.... The bike is 2010 ktm 450 sxf, it has no kickstart, i also tried to bump start it, then it made a different noise like somethign was happening, but i didnt manage to start it. i have checked the spark plug(new), cleaned the carburetor, checked all the wiring, looked at the torque limiter, replaced the battery... what else should i do? how can this happen overnight ? i didnt change any setting after my first ride. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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