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Found 11 results

  1. So I picked up a 1999 dr350se and and after a few good rides I decided to get a lithium ion battery, after that, it stopped wanting to start. I thought it might be the spark plug so I bought a new one, and it showed some spark. I took the carb out and cleaned it just to be sure and then attempted to start it to no avail. It sounds like the battery is turning over and when I checked with a multimeter it’s putting out around 12.95 volts so I don’t think it’s the battery. I’m lost when it come to anything electrical, could it be that I need a new coil? Any thoughts?
  2. I got a question. I own a 2016 KX 85. It ran AMAZING after it first bought it used and was in beautiful condition and I picked it up for only 2500. I was riding when all of a sudden it started bogging down right before the power band.i don’t think it’s jetting because the bogging just turned on like a switch and it was running perfect before it. The bike was like that for a month. Apparently the previous owner never oiled the filter so it was dry as a rock and was falling apart and got sucked into to the intake so I’m guessing my power valve is gummed up or stuck close or open. I was riding one day with the bog issue and about 35 minutes of riding I shut it off to take a break. Came back 20 minutes later and it would not start.I changed the spark plug, cleaned out the carb,checked the reeds,and tried hill starting it but nothing. When ever I try to hill start it I can hear it trying to crank and It starts for like half a second but then dies.I don’t remember if I left the fuel petcock on but what I’m guessing is that I flooded the engine and tried starting which messed up my electronics.The reason why I think I flooded the Engine is because when I took off the reeds the intake manifold and reed were soaked in gas.I heard that starting the engine while flooded can mess with a woodruff key or your CDI or something. There is spark coming from the plug though.And yes I mix the gas with oil at 32:1 cause I’m in the pipe all the time.This is my first time owning a 2 stroke.Any answers or tips.
  3. What’s up everyone, Really need some help and suggestions on what could be the issue with my 2010 KX450f. Bought it with 60 hours on it, rode it twice with no issues. Took it out yesterday, unloaded it off the truck and it had some issues kicking over, took about 15-25 kicks to finally start. Once it was hot, had no issues the rest of the day. Took it home and washed it, and now it won’t start at all. If anyone could help me with ideas or troubleshooting ideas, that would be great. thank you in advance
  4. Please Help! First post, I usually just scour and search the forums, but I've read hundreds of starting issue threads and still haven't found any luck. 2013 KTM 350XCF has starting and running issues. I've taken everything apart twice and the only possible things left I can think of to do are flash ECU, swap voltage regulator, swap fuel pump relay, and maybe swap the injector. The details are below, and I am open/begging for help and ideas. Also looking for local (Cincinnati, OH) guys 2007-2020 KTM 250, 350, or 450 SXF or XCF that I would be able to borrow a few electrical parts off of for troubleshooting. Symptoms: when its cold I have to mess with the idle screw way low, hit the start button and make a tiny turn on the throttle then let off to start, (takes a lot of tweaking to get this thing going), then idle is way too low so you have to hold the throttle open and turn up the idle to get it to stay running, then when running the idle seems to move around a little and there is a terrible delay to the throttle when you turn it. It will NOT start when its hot. One other thing to mention, when trying to cold start, after an attempt on the button, if I wait until the fuel pump relay clicks off before trying again it seems like a get a better crank and shot of starting. Like it turns faster like this (seems like it turns slow/weak similar to a dead battery start) Things ive done (it ran like this when I got it before doing these): -leak down test looked great, but just to be safe I did a new piston and rings (cylinder looked great), -checked valve clearance (in spec) -replaced stator -previous owner had shop replace fuel pump and TPS, he gave me the old fuel pump so I believe him, -i replaced all fuel filters -set and adjusted TPS with meter -cleaned out the injector with a 9v battery -confirmed there is spark -cleaned ground connections -new battery (have it hooked up to a big battery for testing) -checked wires for cuts (only thing I found was a wire going to the gas light was pulled out of the bulb) -disconnected map switch -disconnected kill switch
  5. Hello, I'm new here, I typically don't post things but am rapidly approaching the end of my patience with a KLR250 I bought about 6 months ago. It was supposed to be a learner bike for my wife and an offroad toy for me, but its not reliable enough to be anything but a time vampire in my garage and occasional ride around the block when it starts. This thing has been plagued with issues, but boy is it a blast when I get it running. I really don't want to give up on it, but I also don't want to load it up and drive up to the forest only to spend an hour trying to get it started and fail. I hope you all here can lend me a hand. I'll lay out the history of issues the past 6 months and then describe its current behavior in hopes that there's enough for you to chew on. I also hope this can be entertaining or help the next person down the line. The bike is a 2003 KLR 250, has about 6,000 miles on the clock. Previous owner was young and learning (riding and mechanics) and says he rode it every day, though not for many miles. I think it was also kept out of the weather in a garage. I bought it back in April and rode it ~75 miles home, stopped and started it several times along the way just fine. About two weeks after buying it, it died in the middle of a ride and I had to get towed home. After a bunch of troubleshooting, I opened the cylinder head to find this scene: Compare to the manual: A broken intake rocker arm took me about 2.5 months to discover, get parts for, and fix. One of the arms fell into the crankcase so I had to get into the left side of the engine too and remove the flywheel (fun) and disassemble the balancer to fish it out and make all new gaskets. The good news is this forced me to do an oil and filter change which was needed anyway. While I was in there I adjusted all the valve clearances, had to reset the timing, and torqued everything down properly, who knows what the previous owner may have done. I've also got a bunch of new tools that I needed for the job so I guess that's a plus? I eventually managed to fire it up and it runs, but now it makes some clicking noise which I google to find is extremely common for KLR250's so I elect to ignore it. My clothes after a ride smell noticeably less like gas than before, so maybe it was running really rich before the failure. It has difficulty holding an idle, it backfires quite a bit while engine braking, and its not the easiest to start, but I'm able to run about one tank of gas through it before it can't hold even a high idle and I have extreme difficulty starting it. I filled the tank, patched up the air box, which was cut out to about twice the original opening, and clean the carb (though a bit lazily) and now it doesn't start at all. To add insult to injury, the fuel line springs a leak and I have to splice in some new tube. Meanwhile work and life are busy so sometimes the bike sits for up to a week before I get to do any troubleshooting on it. Most of this period is during southern California summer, for some context. Okay, maybe I installed something wrong in the carb. I pulled it again and completely disassembled and cleaned it, carb cleaner and shop towels. Then I blew out every passage with an air compressor and put it back together, resetting the pilot and idle screw to their stock positions (2 turns out for the pilot, previous owner had it at 3 IIRC) and checking throttle cable and choke cable operation and slack. While I'm at it, I reset the valve clearances again, just in case they're settling in to the new rocker arm. By the way, if it matters, the weather has drastically shifted and its in the 60s and moist out. This was a week ago and its still like this now. It won't kick start for shit, I try for a while and as a last-ditch effort I bump-start it and it fires up on the first try. Once the engine is warmed throughout, it runs better than I've ever seen it run before. It stalls once before its fully warm and again it won't kick but I bump it on the first attempt. I put about 30 miles on it to get it thoroughly warmed and to charge the battery which I'm now concerned about. Once I get back home it idles just fine and I get to kill the engine with the kill switch for what felt like the first time ever. Feeling good, I install the passenger pegs and adjust some of the controls and call it a night, but I DON'T TOUCH THE ENGINE. Two days later I go out with my wife to take it for a doubles spin and it won't kick. Okay, we try bump starts, a few revolutions but nothing. Tried bumping it about 10 times before night fell and I was getting exhausted. That was last night, so now you're caught up. As you can imagine, the unpredictable nature is a bit demoralizing, but I'm not giving up yet, I was going to play a bit with the mixture next and see if that affects anything. Any suggestions? Let's review the current status of the bike: Fuel filter is good, gas is 91 with stabilizer, fuel line is solid and I've drained the float to prove its getting gas I've also pulled the spark plug after a kicking session and its wet with gas Visually confirmed spark while kicking in the dark with plug out of cylinder Carb has been entirely disassembled, cleaned with carb cleaner, blown out with compressed air, and pilot put to 2 turns out Valve clearances checked again Got it running long enough to give the battery a good charge, about an hour, checked the voltage and its at ~12.8 V After the best purr its ever produced, 2 days later it won't start whatsoever. Its been about 3 months but only 100 miles since I fixed the rocker arm Wife is sad :( she had a whole visual overhaul in mind for her learner bike, and I'm running low on patience and ideas. Any help is appreciated. I really think this machine can be great fun and my wife loves the idea of it, it just isn't reliable right now. I've taken a fair amount of pictures, including endoscopes of the piston and intake valves and a video of the valve noise. I don't know if they'll be of help but I can post them if requested.
  6. My daughter has a 1996 CR80 it did run, but was fouling plugs. Then it just quit on her. Rebuilt the top end with new piston and rings. Found the coil was a little out of tolerance so replaced that. Then found that the flywheel is only magnetized halfway around, is this normal? I got others online and they are the same way. It has spark but thought it was possibly a timing issue. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.
  7. Hi everyone, A few months ago I was working on installing a new headlight and fairing. I also changed the front blinkers to smaller ones which only used two wires, instead of the 3 factory wires. I zipped tied some of the new wires from the headlight to existing factory wires and had everything wired up correctly to the battery. Then I tried to start the bike to test the headlight, however, when I turned it to the 'ON' position, the instrument cluster did not light up and the bike does not start or crank at all. The fuel pump runs and the blinkers work, but the bike does not function otherwise. I know about checking the wiring harness/connector behind the radiator; I had checked that already and it seemed fine and in tact, however, I will check it again just to make sure. I also removed all zip ties so there's no pulling on factory wires, but nothing has changed. I inspected the wires leading into the instrument cluster and they all seem to be fine. I am not sure what is causing the issue, whether it was a wiring harness being pulled or a wire causing an issue from the blinkers or what. The battery has a full charge as well, so it wasn't dead. Any ideas from anyone or steps to take to diagnose this issue? Thanks!
  8. I bought a 2006 Mini Adventure (50SX) KTM for my son for his birthday. It has low hours on it, great condition (it seemed). When test riding it before purchase it started first kick when cold (choke on), and also re-started first kick when warm (no choke). My son rode it for a couple of hours a couple weekends ago, and it ran well. Started no problem cold nor warm. He killed it once and it took a few kicks to get it running then, but not out of the ordinary in my opinion there. We put it up (gas off) for a week, then this past weekend we couldn't get it to start. I drained and put in new 50:1 gas just in case it was old gas. I checked the plug, it seemed in order and when I hold it against the head while my son kicks it, I can see a spark (not sure if it's strong enough, but a spark none the less). Seems to be getting gas through the carb. But not 100% sure there. Looked like a little sediment in the tank, so not sure there might be an issue there (it was pretty low on gas when I drained it and put new gas in. The local shop here has a 4 week back log. I have an appointment set, but was wondering if you all had some insights on what I could try in the short term to see if I can get it started and/or what might be the (most common) issues for starting that I could look into that I've not already diagnosed (see above). Thanks much in advance!
  9. I have a 2011 crf250r that was rebuilt 20hrs ago. I was riding it in fifth gear and it just died and will not start again. Wondering if the motor is blown or any other possible issues that may be causing it to start. The head, cams, valves, and crankshaft have 20 hours. Piston and cylinder have 13 hours. So I do not think it needs a rebuild, but I do not know what else it could be I was wondering if you guys had any ideas before I take it to a shop. After it died it lost most compression and makes a noise when trying to kick start, and will not bump start. Ill get a video of it tomorrow trying to be started.
  10. I got a 2008 ttr 230 off of a friend for a very cheap price. The bike would not run. I could feel air blowing out of the carburetor so i assumed that the timing was off. I pulled the bike apart to find out that the intake valve was bent so it wasn’t sealing properly. I put a new valve in. When I pulled the bike apart I didn’t mark the chain at top dead center. I have the bike back in time. I think. I have the line on the crank lined up and the cam chain sprocket lined up. The valves are adjusted and in spec. I can not get the bike to crank. Starting fluid won’t even make it hit. Does anyone have any idea on what I am missing? I mostly work on 2 strokes so this is a little unfamiliar. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Haden White
  11. Hey guys, need some help pinpointing the problem on my 2010 yz450f. so it's a turbo snowbike setup, and late this past spring I was doing some last runs before season ends, outside temps were warmer, my temp gauge wasnt working and it was overheating on the hillclimbs. Started dying on a hillclimb and loosing power, I thought it was low fuel so I pop a u turn and go down, check to find out it's got plenty of fuel. Tried to start it- no luck. Tow start- no luck. Got towed back the the truck. The turbo setup was used, previously installed on another 2010 yz450f, and I didn't tune it after install. (Dont ask why 🤦‍♂️) Next season is almost here so I decided it was time to fix it. Procrastination at its finest 🤣🤣. So it has a good spark. No amount of starting fluid got it to even pop. Compression check- doesn't feel low on compression at all. Bought a new Leak down tester- 9% leak. Checked the cams- they appeared to have jumped several teeth on the cam chain 🤔? While fiddling with getting it at TDC for leak down testing, I noticed an inconsistency with the TDC timing mark on stator and actual piston TDC. the actual piston TDC is about 0.7inches before the TDC mark on stator lines up with mark on the cover. Is that normal, or did I bend my crank? I believe it is bent, as this also explains why my cams appeared to have skipped several teeth, with no valve damage. I just need some verification before I start splitting the cases, as I doubt I will be able to visually see this bend... Thanks in advance.
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