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Found 11 results

  1. I got a question. I own a 2016 KX 85. It ran AMAZING after it first bought it used and was in beautiful condition and I picked it up for only 2500. I was riding when all of a sudden it started bogging down right before the power band.i don’t think it’s jetting because the bogging just turned on like a switch and it was running perfect before it. The bike was like that for a month. Apparently the previous owner never oiled the filter so it was dry as a rock and was falling apart and got sucked into to the intake so I’m guessing my power valve is gummed up or stuck close or open. I was riding one day with the bog issue and about 35 minutes of riding I shut it off to take a break. Came back 20 minutes later and it would not start.I changed the spark plug, cleaned out the carb,checked the reeds,and tried hill starting it but nothing. When ever I try to hill start it I can hear it trying to crank and It starts for like half a second but then dies.I don’t remember if I left the fuel petcock on but what I’m guessing is that I flooded the engine and tried starting which messed up my electronics.The reason why I think I flooded the Engine is because when I took off the reeds the intake manifold and reed were soaked in gas.I heard that starting the engine while flooded can mess with a woodruff key or your CDI or something. There is spark coming from the plug though.And yes I mix the gas with oil at 32:1 cause I’m in the pipe all the time.This is my first time owning a 2 stroke.Any answers or tips.
  2. I'm new to your forum and I tried searching for help on this topic before posting, but I wasn't' successful. Please forgive me if I missed the Topic that could have answered my questions. I am looking to purchase a 2001 XR650R from a friend, but it hasn't run in almost 2 years. It was stored with gas in it that went bad. After cleaning and disassembling the carb multiple times I'm stuck and I'm about to dump about $75 worth of new parts into the Carburetor just to see if it helps, but I'm not confident. Could you please help me figure this out? To date I've tried: 1.5 bottles of Mechanic in a Bottle (MiaB) mixed 50/50 with ethanol free gas. (No start) Running the old gas out until the MiaB has sat overnight (No start) Removing the carb, complete disassembly and (soaking in Gunk carb cleaner bath for the recommended 20 minutes) -- 2 batches, small parts and body separately. Then we cleaned all the parts individually until spotless. Reassembled carb (with pictures to insure it was reassembled correctly) -- at this point the carb was spotless (started for up to 2 mins 1 time, but could not keep it running). Checked that it was making compression, though didn't test if it was adequate compression, decompression lever working well. Checked that the spark plug was sparking, but we did not test if it was strong spark. (No start) Disassembled again re-cleaned all the parts and hoses with spray in carb cleaner and ensured that EVERY passage was blown out reassembled (No start) Tried every combination of air screw, throttle settings, choke, kill switch and throttle position we could. Checked for spark, and adjusted valves, .006 and .008. During these attempts used starter fluid (No start) Cleaned off the spark plug, as it was wet after all these attempts, and it was sooty and wet. Cleaned it to shiny but did not check the gap. (No start) Towed behind a truck for several attempts to start and no joy, wouldn't even run well while actively being towed (No start, wouldn't run) We adjusted the float several times to ~16mm to keep it from pissing fuel during our vigorous starting attempts. (No start) I think there might have been a high altitude kit in the bikes past because the jets are pilot:065 and main:118. I believe the stock sizes are 68s and 125. My current altitude is about 4000 ft, and I plan to do most of my riding around 4500-7000 ft. With an occasional ride around 1000ft. Could this be part of the issue? To date I've purchased a complete rebuild kit to include the stock jets, metering rod, o-rings, ect, and new floats, new plug but have not installed because I don't want to waste money if it won't help. I'd really appreciate some help as we have spent soo many hours on this it has become incredibly frustrating having no success, and the more cleaning we do seems to make it worse. It would be very helpful to know what the best starting settings are for this bike/carb [choke, air screw, throttle, clutch, decompression lever ] just incase that is something we aren't doing right, though between my friends and I we've probably tried them all. --- Here is a link to the album on FB. These are the disassembly pictures before cleaning, only the last few are of clean parts. I have lots more pictures, but I couldn't figure out what was useful. https://www.facebook.com/patrick.moon.9/media_set?set=a.10221999157194013&type=3
  3. So I bought a used 2006 rmz 450 a while back. Started up great when i got it, always starts easy when its cold. The only issues I've had is after riding for a while, and the bike is hot, its a beast to start. I was out riding a few months ago, killed it and couldnt get it to start at all after. Not even with a bump starting it. I took the carb off cleaned it out put it back together and it still wont start. Im.getting spark fuel and air but it still won't pop off. Im lost..
  4. Guys I am new to this website. I am 17 years old. I will start from the beginning. I changed my oil. Next day I was riding and the bike died 2 minutes into riding the track. We tried bump starting the bike at the track. Never fired up. Brought it home from the track thinking it was an electrical issue. Checked the battery and it had 12.8 volts at the battery. Had power to one side of the starter relay, no power to the starter. Tried bypassing the relay, still nothing. Ran a direct hot lead from the battery to the starter, nothing. Ran a direct ground from the battery to the starter, nothing. Bypassed clutch safety switch, nothing. Bypassed the starting switch, still had the same results. Took the starter off and tested it with a battery, turns over no problem. Since I bypassed the starting relay, I don't think it could be the issue. When I tried to start the bike, the starting relay just clicks. Tried turning the engine over manually, SEIZED. Turns out I installed the oil filter backwards. Just after 2 minutes of putting around, the engine seized. Had the top end 100% rebuilt. Got the bike back, and I am still in the same position with the electrical issue. I have gone over the schematic wiring diagram, and I believe it could be either a faulty CKP sensor, faulty register, faulty diode, or a faulty main relay. Couldn't find any lose connections, all the wiring seems to be intact. Any advice would help. At a standstill at the moment. Gmoney
  5. Hey all I recently rebuilt the top end of my 2007 YZ450 and now cannot get it to start. Below is a list of the things I have tried. Please take a look and let me know if you have any suggestions. Thanks in advance. Crank and cams are timed per yamaha specs. The carb has been gone through completely to verify that all jets are clear of debris and are jetted stock. The BIKE HAS SPARK.. I am at a loss here and need some help. Is there any other timing I should know about ?
  6. I am looking for advice, my yz250f 2009 has had a issue for awhile now were as I can turn the bike over with my had quite easily. I have yet to do a compression test but am confused, the bike altough low compression does start eventually. easy cold but sometimes first kick hot but other times I'm there got 10-15 minutes. when trying hot it wants to start were it is almost starting everytime but I feel it just needs more compression to start. I have put new spark plug in and jetted carb to where I think it is not longer the problem. no shavings in the oil filter, what should I do ? put new piston and rings in it???
  7. Alright so I have an 09 yz450f. Was getting difficult to cold start on me but other than that, no problems. Adjusted valves, only 1 intake was out, put it back together and tried to kick it twice. Turns out I didn't reset the tensioner before I reinstalled it. So I pulled timing chain tensioner back out, reset it, reinstalled. Was still rough to start cold but ran fine afterwards. Then last weekend it took a good 5 solid minutes of kicking to start in the morning before she fired up. Went back out in the afternoon and wouldn't start no matter how much I kicked. Sputter a little like it was trying to run but very briefly. Pulled carb off and cleaned and put all new factory sized jets in. (had a high altitude main in when I took it apart) checked valves again and the intake cam had jumped a tooth. (probably when I re did the tensioner) everything looked good again so I reassembled it all. Still nothing. A couple brief sputters but that is it. Spark is good. Good fresh fuel. It's always burned a little oil and it has noticably gotten worse this summer. Was planning on new piston this winter. Could the piston and rings finally be worn out enough to cause it to quit starting? I've hit a wall, I'll take any advice you have.
  8. Hi all, I have a 2009 KLX-140L. Here's the story: The battery is less than a year old. I've not been keeping it on a tender between the last few rides, although I usually do (tender broke and haven't purchased a new one). It's been starting well. I took it riding on some trails last weekend. It started great, ran great, started / stopped many times during the day of riding. 5 miles from camp at the end of the day though, I went to start it and the battery was completely drained, the red ignition light could barely light up. Luckily I was on a hill and was able to clutch-start it and get back to the truck. Of course, it's very weird to have a dead battery AFTER a day of riding. So I assume the alternator wasn't charging the battery while I was riding. How do I know if the alternator is bad? (Is there a DIY or images of what the alternator looks like or where to find it?) How do I tell if the battery is bad (less than a year old)? How do I tell if it was just a loose connection somewhere? (I know the battery wasn't disconnected because there was enough to light the ignition light). What do I do? Thank you all for your help in advanced!
  9. Hello. I Try to write here in case someone else have experienced trouble starting a 2000 Husqvarna te 610e. I just bought it, (as a no runner). It’s been standing still in a garage for the last 15 years. Until I bought it. Previous owner said it had been difficult to start since engine rebuild. Apparently it has been rebuilt with a 630 kit, high compression piston and another cam. Engine was built for motard racing. (Which explains his trouble starting it) it’s originally an enduro bike, but has also the excel motard wheels. After bringing it home, I just cleaned up everything, and it started. But not running properly in mid section. So after a more thorough cleaning of carburetor, power was back. And super easy to start. But then low rpm was off. Coughing like crazy when driving slow. (Too much fuel) So, another carburetor cleanup, and adjusting air/fuel values down, to a bit more than stock, it was running great. Took it for a spin, happy as a whistle. A couple of days later (next opportunity to drive) I couldn’t fire it up. !!?? Have tried to bring it back to life for some weeks now, but haven’t gotten as much as a single ignited thump from it. Not even with start-gas. My question is: What to check next?! Plug is exchanged for a new one, spark is good. It seems like it’s not picking up the fuel, but it can’t be, and at least it should ignite with start-gas. So I’m thinking something electric?! -coil should be ok since I have spark?! Any tips on what to check next will be appreciated!
  10. 2013 KTM 300 XC: Electrical Troubleshooting Advice badly needed for fairly new KTM owner who just reinstalled electric starter parts. WARNING! Long read and some Electrical knowledge required. Comment or PM with details please! Issue: INTERMITTENTLY not getting any ignition spark (wire or cap), but most times when moving the CDI/ECU box around I'm able to get spark again! But sometimes it goes out longer as if the CDI box was in some kinda protective mode. Background: bought bike without E-starter kit. It had a Baja Designs voltage regulator and stator mod for DC voltage (unknown to me during initial troubleshooting) to run lights I didn't get with bike. Installed E-starter and new battery but it wouldn't start with E-start on cold engine, only by kickstarter. But it would not produce more than 13.4 Volts with bike running. I even de-modded the stator back to OEM standard (AC v) and OEM voltage regulator. But not much improvement. Then I started having the no-spark issue, especially after E-start attempts, which I attributed to a combination of bad stator/pick-up coil and ignition coil since some of the readings were borderline off. I decided to get a new stator and voltage regulator and while at it new ignition coil. Installed all the new stuff and it cranked much stronger and even E-started it a couple times on a somewhat cold engine. Then it would lose spark again. I tested everything I could with a multimeter (ohms) and it passed the continuity tests as per the manual. However, I haven't found any data on troubleshooting the CDI box. I know I got continuity between pins 2 (ground, br) and 11 (pick-up coil/CPS, gn) in the CDI box. Not sure if CDI pin 11 should be grounded to pin 2 internally or if any other terminals should be grounded to each other in the CDI. All wiring harness wires have continuity and no shorts. I even moved them around while checking. Wiring harness connector to CDI was a little questionable cuz it slips out a little on one side but even while pressing it I'm still not getting spark at the ignition when cranking (intermittently). I'm leaning toward CDI box with a slight change it could be the connector. Thoughts? guidance? recommendations? New Parts: OEM stator, OEM voltage regulator, OEM ignition, Neuron starter, Shorai battery Used Parts: CDI/ECU box, bendix, wiring harness, starter relay Thanks AC
  11. 400sm07

    Carb issue

    I have a 2007 drz400 sm just had my top end redone (valves,rings,cylinder and can chain) by a reputable shop i took the engine out handed it over to them got it back and reinstalled it connected everything properly, I decided to get and fmf powerbomb header and power core 4 exhaust for it as well as a jed jet kit so i did the 3x3 mod myself i am no pro clearly but i do believe I installed the jet kit properly with all the proper mods but the thing just wont turn over has compression, spark and fuel is getting to the bowl for sure it has to be something with the jetting I believe it has the 25 pilot blue needle (clip in 4th position) and a 170 main jet... which is recommended for my elevation and mods i even pulled the starter jet and that was clean not sure where to go from here, any advice would be appreciated worst case is i bring it back to the shop but i feel like this is a simple fix and would like to try and get it started myself sorry for the rant but i am super frustrated lol, thanks
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