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Found 104 results

  1. as anyone that rides an xcf knows we are 100% dependent on our batteries. My XCF is street legal with a light kit. But I need to add a fan as the bike is a Pizza Oven in the woods. My question, I have 70W to play with as I upgraded the stator. Can I run my additional loads (lights/fan) off the battery terminals and still expect the battery to keep charge? Or do I need to wire in a separately derived system?
  2. Hello, this past weekend was overly frustrating for me and a few friends. We planned weeks ahead to get away for the weekend, leaving the even more frustrated wife and kids, traveling a few hours south to ride at Burning Rock Outdoor Adventure Park in WV. Cabins rented, tanks filled, bikes in tow. We made it 15 miles from camp the first morning only to have my rather new (250 miles, 16 hours) 2016 250xc-w stop dead. Initial thought was a plug, which when changed it hit just for a second then shut off again DEAD. Put a third plug in and towed it down the trail in third gear for a 1/2 mile... NOTHING DEAD. Finally pulled the plug and realized it wasn't sparking at all. We switched the CDI box, voltage reg, and coil packs between mine and my friends 2014 on the trail to no avail. We also checked the kill switch. Fast forward to today and I have pulled the side case to inspect the stator. You can see in the picture the bottom black winding, which by the manual looks to be the charging coil of the ignition is bubbled (not sure if that's normal). The maintenance book I have states at 68 degree, which my garage is maybe 75, the resistance should be 12-16.6 ohms. You can see right at the coil itself I'm getting around 9.7, and if measured at the bus connecter as the manual says, it reads about 10.1. All the other values for the coil pack and stator are perfectly within spec, and nothing is shorted to ground. I'm the original owner of the bike and haven't done anything but change the oil and clean the air filter. After all that my question is are those roughly 2 ohms enough to prevent the plug from sparking??? Alternator specs Lighting winding .1 ohms Battery winding .7 ohms Stator spec Pulse generator 100.1 ohms Coil pack Primary winding .3 secondary 6K ohms On a side note, I highly recommend the trails (what I saw) and the employees of Burning Rock. One of the maintenance guys rode 30 minutes with my friends, around the mountain, in the truck, to lead them to me... Super friendly folks. https://burningrockwv.com/
  3. The bike has spark at the plug when grounded on the engine but not much. I have a wr250f so I compared the two. The wr has much more, bright blue spark, yz - you can barley see the spark. I switched plugs and coils between the two bikes, same result. The bike will start and run for 30-60 seconds and then die. If you crack the throttle it dies. I have checked the ohms from the stator. It all checks out with my multi meter to be within spec. I have check all connections, disconnected the kill switch. Nothing makes any difference. I have researched and read every article. Before I start buying parts and switching them out I'm open for suggestions. When the bike quit and we got it hope, I noticed that there was a hole on the radiator hose and there was no water in the bike. I figured it had run hot and melted the piston. I checked the valves. They were spot on. Pulled the top end off. The piston and cylinder looked okay. The oil rings showed wear so I put in a new piston and rings hoping. When I got it back together it was still the same. You can get it to start after several kicks but not for long. Could the heat have caused something to happen in the electrical system? Any advise will be greatly appreciated. From all I have read the cdi rarely goes out on these bikes. Thanks, Darrell
  4. I have a 2002 Honda XR650R with stock stator (I believe, I bought the bike used and haven't opened it to look at it). My headlight is so dim it is unusable so I'm trying to diagnose the problem starting at the stator. I disconnect the stator from the wiring harness and voltage regulator and at idle I get 17vac - 18vac and when I throttle up I get 55vac - 60vac. This, from all my research, seems correct. Then I connect the AC Voltage Regulator and at idle I get 6.5vac - 7vac. I throttle up and the voltage DROPS to 3.5vac - 4vac. I have NOTHING connected to the stator output wires except the voltage regulator when I perform this test, it is completely disconnected from the wiring harness. Thinking this was a voltage regulator issue I purchased a new TrailTech AC voltage regulator but when I hook it up I get the same results even through it is set from the factory to produce 13.8vac. This seems to point to the stator as the culprit. Anyone have any ideas why it would behave like this? Thanks for reading this!
  5. 02' DRZ400E. I put a crack in my stator cover somehow, all fixed with JBweld, gotta love that stuff, but I'm wanting to buy a good used one. I 'think' I read that the stator covers on the E models are magnesium? not sure if that's correct or not, but can I buy a cover from any DRZ400 and it will fit/be correct? appreciate any info, thanks.
  6. I just picked up a 2001 xr200 that isnt running,just started taking the engine apart to inspect it,when i took my stator cover off oil poured out of it,im pretty sure its not suppose to be,but im not a mechanic,there doesnt appear to be any oil seal on the main bearing behind the crank.so im just not sure if its suppose to be that much oil in there or i have a gasket busted somwhere or what,thanks in advance
  7. hey everyone, I have a 2009 KLX250S with a 330 kit in it (previous owner installed) and it came with a high output stator that he never installed... is there any performance gain with using the HO stator? I'm not sure why he had it for the bike as it doesn't have extra lights or anything other electrical items. If there will be no use for me, is this an item anyone else would be looking to buy?
  8. This might seem like an odd question but I am having a time and a half with this and not finding much info. I did a full rebuild on a 2011 450 sxf motor that i got as a lemon and this is possibly the last piece of the puzzle. Background: I did a full bottom to top rebuild but sent a few of the things out to have done at a shop. I had KTM put a new rod on the crank and i had a shop setup the shims on the crank/bearings(so i didn't get in trouble for sticking my motor in the oven :)). I sent them the bottom end/empty case but i did the original tear down and assembly. Problem...maybe: So the one way starter gear that sits just behind the flywheel seems to have a bit more play than i would like/expect. I pulled apart my 2012 and it has a little play but not as much. I have tried every manner of torquing on the flywheel and i am actually dealing with both a stock flywheel and a trailtech wheel to go with a 90w stator setup. This is a heavier unit but not an add-on weight. With both flywheels i can only get them on so far and feel like its not far enough(based solely on the gear play behind it not that it feels like its binding). I have used an impact, the 4/5th gear holding rear brake method. I have used a band type oil filter wrench to hold the flywheel and torque the bolt. It is certainly not an issue where its not getting torqued on. I used the 44ftlbs that Trailtech suggested in their instructions as well as a bit more in small increments just to ensure that it wasn't "close". i have tried a bit of oil on the crank. I made sure the keyway wasn't damaged. I have inspected everything, even made sure the bolt threads in all the way to the crank without binding. After the flywheel is on and i feel there is too much gap i have pulled the bolt off and there is a small amount of space(sorry didn't measure but a very small amount.) between the end of the crank and the end of the flywheel. Question: So the question really comes down to is this right? or normal? I wouldn't think there would be much play here but that starter gear has a one way bearing and isn't always moving with the flywheel and the space is set by all things that are fixed. The only variable is how far the flywheel can go on. I did notice with the flywheel i got(which included the pickup bracket, stator and flywheel) that the aluminum bracket has some wear on the back where the gear could rub and so does the pickup bracket i pulled off the bike. I also know that there are aluminum castings that appear to be surfaces that gear could wear/rub. This makes me think its okay but the last thing i want to do is waste the bottom end of a bike that i have only gotten to enjoy about 1hr total....I did contact Trail Tech to be sure there shouldn't be a thin spring washer between the two and they said no. So really just looking to see what others experiences are. Thanks!
  9. Hi i'm wondering if anyone knows whether I can replace a 1984 XL200R stator with one from a 1985 XL250. Both look very similar but have different part numbers. thanks,
  10. I’ve been searching for the last week or so for a nice used bike and have found a very nice 07 250 sxf. My problem is that I have not found any kind of aftermarket stator to allow for lights, fan, or other electrical accessories I might add to make the bike more trail worthy. Ive googled, searched this forum, and checked several online vendors to no avail. Any info you guys have would be appreciated. Zach
  11. 01 kx 85 keeps cooking the coil I have tested stator changed to a known good vortex ignition CDI box , new coil will run for about 5 minutes then it’s junk. Has anyone ever seen this issue before?
  12. I've had my 96 XR600R for almost a year now and am by no means an expert mechanic, but I know enough to do basic-intermediate maintenance. The most recent issue I've had involves what I believe to be some sort of electrical issue. First things first, it has been running obscenely rich despite downsizing to a 62 (stock) pilot jet and 155 main at sea level with upgraded muffler. This made me suspicious of some electrical issue that prevents a full spark from getting to the spark plug. It wasn't until after 20-30 mins of street riding that I noticed the rpms at idle begin dropping at idle. Finally, they dropped too low and the bike just died at a stop light. I waited about 5 mins and will a little more effort than usual was able to get the bike started in 2-3 kicks and got it home. The insulation on the prongs of the ignition coil is cracked pretty bad and there is a fair amount of dirt and dust in that area directly under the tank. Other than that, the insulation for the wiring looks solid. I just checked the valve clearances today (had similar symptoms from tight valves months ago) and they're in spec. Bike starts first or second kick every time and has no issues until the bike gets hot and the rpms drop. I've noticed when cruising the bike seems like it misses a fire and the bike jerks ever so slightly, but other than that it has power and rides well and rarely backfires. Does anyone have any advice for narrowing down what is causing the issue or has had similar problems and knows a solution?? I know stators are known to go out on these old thumpers but it seems like that would also lead to problems when the bike is warming up? Are stators known to lose power when the bike is hot? Could it be the CDI? Ignition Coil? Any help would be appreciated!
  13. Just ordered this kit. I have had several issues with charging and keeping my battery charged. Not getting correct voltage when the bike is running. E-Start issues as well. I have replaced the battery a few times. Is there anything I will need to be on the lookout for when I swap out the old one? Will I need to do anything with the light bulb on the headlight? I thought I might have read somewhere that a change my be required. Thanks
  14. I have a 2001 ktm sx 250 with a repaired stator, it was always hard to start the bike, even after rebuild. Last time the bike booged down, thence I can't start it. I check everything on the bike, carburated right, still has spark etc... I measured the exciter resistance value, the manual says it should be 24Ω +- 15% and my value is 13,8Ω. I also measured the ignition coil and the secondary coil range is 10,8-16,2kΩ and my value is 6kΩ. My spark plug always was a bit oily, my suggestion is the spark is not strong enough, it is possible? Could be that the problem?
  15. I have been having an issue with my Ignition Coil on my 2002 YZ125. Let me explain the story of how it happened. Let me preface this by saying I know what is happening and I know what the specific problem is, I need to know if their is a way around this, and if anyone else has had this issue. So I go for a ride, everything works fine, end of the ride, go to wash the bike. Go to start it up afterwards, it does not rev out, as in it will idle but if you turn the throttle, the ignition doesnt advance, rpm stays same, but the system introduces more fuel and air obviously since throttle is open. This issue started about 6 months ago, so since then I have eliminated all the obvious and went through everything to determine it is in fact the secondary ignition coil that is failing. I am pretty proficient with this stuff and pretty much figured out the problem, but have never seen a topic on something like this and want to resolve the issue permanently. But I will walk through all the steps to ensure readers that it is this specific problem to save us both time haha. At the time i did not notice the ignition was not advancing and I naturally thought to look at carb, spark plug, plug cap, powervalve, top end, clocked jets, paper towels in airbox ect..... Well instead of even having to go through the carb, I was actually going to put a different carb on that night either way (Lectron Carburator), and that obviously didn't change anything. Checked Powervalves, changed spark plug, put different fuel in for the heck of it. Checked compression and also looked at the bottom end seals and made sure I did not have an air leak. Everything was perfect, as iv went through the entire engine a few months before this. So then I started looking into electrical. First thing I did was replace spark plug cap. That didnt do it, even though that was giving me wonky Ohms readings. Then I went through the entire electrical system, stator, ignition coil, kill switch. Everything tested good except for the ignition coil initially. Ended up replacing ignition coil. I also filed down the frame leads to bare metal that the ignition coil attaches too. ----- That fixed the problem, or so i thought. Started up and revved fine. Next week, I wash the bike, and it fails again. But this time I let the bike dry out... try a few hours later, and the problem is fixed again. At this point I determined that the water was causing the problem. So I go back and check both igniton coils and realize they both test the same, and that its really hard to get a steady reading on either of those parts. Throw the old one back in real quick and that works fine. Went through and checked all the wires again and used di-electric grease this time on things. Kept having this problem occasionally since then. It is never the end of the world because I know what is happening... and if I wait an hour, sometimes it takes a few, it will resolve itself. So the problem: Something going to the secondary ignition coil, or the coil itself is shorting or intermittently failing, and it is because of water. I do a very good job washing my bike and it always looks showroom condition, so I am spraying water everywhere, but all the electric is sealed up. I know a solution would to be not wash it as well or spray up under the tank where electric is, but that is not an option, I would like to resolve this issue. Thanks for the help -Kirk
  16. We spent weeks trying to determine why our 2001 520EXC wouldn't start after we did the top end and replaced the OEM stator with an upgraded TrailTech 100W (need to run headlight and a fan once it's dualsported). HISTORY: Before I tore it down, the bike ran almost perfectly, though the starter was hit-or-miss. I mostly used it as a kick-assist, because even jetted properly, it was tough to kick. However, I essentially rescued this bike from the desert in Saudi Arabia and it was almost completely destroyed electrically with some truly shameful bodge jobs. I replaced literally every electrical component but the pickup and rotor and had it running well, but was nervous because the outside was in such a frightful state, I couldn't imagine it was internally sound. If nothing else, I wanted to make sure the infamous deco lever stop bolt was addressed. Sure enough, all was well inside, with the exception of worn timing chain guides. Truly a testament to the legendary RFS! Once buttoned up, we found that with a sharp kick, it started first or second kick almost every time, though it was still a bit more difficult than it should have been. However, I could lay on the starter for 10 or 15 seconds and it would cough once or twice but never catch. Hot or cold, it didn't matter. I swapped plugs, compared sparks, checked coils and wires, dropped in an enormous 300CCA AntiGravity lithium battery, tested voltage drop at the starter, scrubbed grounds, inspected starter sprag, cleaned and wondered at the carburetor jetting, pondered whether I'd improperly assembled the auto decompression lever, pondered a busted woodruff key, second and third-guessed the timing, and generally went insane. Nothing was wrong. Absolutely maddening. After exhausting all the other intelligent options, I arrived at the solution by pure, dumb luck...or the longest, most methodical troubleshooting I've ever done. You be the judge. I only noticed the problem when we opened the ignition cover again because I was going to replace the new TT stator with the original. The air gap for the pickup (pulse generator) off the rotor's reluctor bar (I think that's the right name for the raised section) was at least 2mm or so. I was staring at the manual a couple nights before and a note about a 0.75mm gap stood out--primarily because that doesn't seem to be an adjustable component. I've never adjusted pickup gap ever, though I'm primarily a 2-stroke guy. Probably should have remembered from the stories about how sensitive some of the old points ignitions were to air gap. Using my 0.76mm feeler gauge, I bent the pickup bracket inward until I had drag on the gauge. Buttoned it up, and the bike started absolutely effortlessly on choke in a 45F (7C) garage. Zero hesitation, first poke. Starts first try every time now. Can't wait to get it out and thrash it a bit to see how it feels! This was literally a 5-minute fix, requiring nothing but an 8mm socket, feeler gauges, strong thumbs, and maybe a stator cover gasket. How frustratingly simple for a problem that took weeks to find!
  17. I'm having an issue with my drz. I replaced the stator 100% correctly regarding tucking wires under the brackets and loctiting the bolt but when I put it back together it won't start. It cranks but no spark. I've replaced the coil, and the CDI box. I've heard the wiring can be wrong with some stators, how do I check that? I have a multimeter but I'm not sure what to really check. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  18. Hi all, I'm new to the forum, so I hope I have posted this in the right place, otherwise let me know. Just acquired a 1986 XL600R. Sadly, it does not charge the battery, so the brake light, indicators, neutral lamp go dim and die after riding. Therefore, I am trying to measure the stator charging coil, as per the Haynes handbook instructions. But I cannot get a reading of the resistance when I measure the yellow wire that connects to pink, which is coming from the stator. I connect the red probe to the wire, and black to the frame, but nothing happens. Any suggestions or instructions on how to measure the stator? I've tried searching the forum, but cannot seem to find any post that lead to a breakthrough (but I am not a native English speaker, and my skills with a multimeter are, well, limited..) The previous owner told me that the stator has been changed within the last two years, so I am thinking more in the direction of the regulator/rectifier. Any help is greatly appreciated! Cheers from Denmark, Peter
  19. I have a 2002 Honda cr80. The spark is intermittent. About every 15-20 kicks will create a spark. It’s not the plug or plug wire. That was my first replacement parts. Any ideas would be helpful. CDI box ? Coil? Stator? thanks
  20. Hey guys, I've had a 2008 DRZ400s for a few years. As part of the winter maintenance I decided to check and loctite the stator bolts per the DRZ FAQs. The charging system is working fine, no problems, this is just preventive maintenance. When I pulled the stator the bolts were all secure, no problems there. Since I have it out, and the bike has 15,500 miles on it, I did the coil resistance test per the Clymer manual. All measurements are around 1.1 - 1.2 ohms, which is at the high end of the service range of 0.5 - 1.25 ohms. The stator doesn't look too great to me (see photo) but I don't have anything to compare it to. So my question is - should I go ahead and replace it or leave it alone? I'm thinking it's in the twilight of its operating life so I might as well replace, but I have no idea how long these things are supposed to last or where this stator fits in the spectrum of "she'll be right" to "bloody hell". What do you think?
  21. A few signs that your voltage regulator / rectifier is bad: 1) If your bike's battery will not hold a charge and dies after a few rides. 2) If your bike gurgles or hesitates when you hold your the throttle open at a constant position between 1/8-1/3rd. Other words, it stutters and runs poorly while trying to cruise at a steady rate. Makes jetting extra challenging and nearly impossible. 3) The unit is physically exploded (may need removal to verify.) See pic below. Here are some pictures of where your voltage regulator / rectifier are located on the bike as well as a damaged unit.
  22. I recently bought a taotao 110cc dirt bike that had no spark, the previous owner's dogs chewed the wiring. First thing I did was wire everything up by directly splicing the wires where I was pretty sure they needed to go and double checked while looking over diagrams. After not having spark I assumed I must be doing something wrong so I broke down and bought the whole harness which came with the loom harness, 5 pin AC CDI, coil, sparkplug, kill switch, and a new stator and plate. After replacing the stator and plugging all the wires into their correct places I still had no spark, I even tried disconnecting the kill switch and kicking it over, still no luck. The harness had two places to plug in a kill switch of two different types, I cut one of the connectors and held the black/white wire and the green wire and when I did this while kicking the bike over it shocked me at this point but still no spark. When all was lost I went to this 12v DC CDI system I made and hooked it up to my battery and connected it to the bike with alligator clips at the blue/white wire and the green to the negative on the battery along with ground to the cylinder head I got spark. I just can't understand why I'm not getting spark with the AC CDI system that I purchased for the bike.
  23. Anyone have a feel for where Suzuki is at on there late model DRs as far as the known factory flaws (loctite fixes)? Picked up a 19 with 500 miles on it but I’ve never had one so new. I’ve heard mumblings that some of the issues were resolved in the late 2000’s but I’m not sure if that was true or if it was just lazy people who didn’t want to take the time to make it right trying to feel better about the reliability of there bike. Any help or advice would be great. The bike is a clean slate and I’m ready to get my hands dirty.
  24. Hi All Trying to diagnose why my bike won't get regular spark. Reading forums I've come across people having issues with their pick-up & pulser coils. I did a resistance test on the wiring that I'm pretty sure is for these - but I'm very new to electrical stuff & it's confusing. The numbers I get don't match what I have in my manual (for DR350). Could anyone tell me if the numbers I'm getting suggest these coils are broken? Pick-up coil (Green & Blue wires) = 517ohm Power source coil (White & Brown wires) = 507ohm I also tested these 2 wires that are in the same connector as the pick-up coil (but aren't on the wiring diagram that I have) Yellow & grey = 522ohm It will make only one spark after plugging in the CDI - this is repeatable. I read on a forum that someone had a broken wire in their stator - took mine apart to check and no issues like that. Also read that the ignition coil needs to have bare metal where it bolts on for grounding and have sanded the paint back there. All the safety switches (sidestand/neutral/kill) are working properly. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
  25. So my TTR 125 has electric start and the stator has seen better days, no start and it didn’t electric start for awhile before. So I got to buy a new one, the ones for this model and the electric start ones are few and high priced imo. Here’s the parts number and exploded diagram for it. https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemparts/a/yam/50045bbaf8700209bc7941d8/generator The TTR 90 with electric start appears to be the same part, and the model numbers are one digit off, the third one. And appear the same, I can get a used one for a low price on eBay. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F174124574180 Has anyone dealt with anything like this? Thanks in advance.
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