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Found 6 results

  1. I have a 2012 yz125 and when I stop on the trails for a couple seconds with the clutch pulled in and it still running, it will start to bog before the powerband until I give it a few blips of throttle or hold the throttle where the powerband should be for a few seconds. After its going and I don't stop for a minute or two it works perfectly normal. I am thinking its the power valves but you can tell me if you have any other thoughts. Here is a video of what it exactly looks like when it happens. Its not my video. 52 seconds into the video it shows
  2. Hi guys, I have EC 250 2008 racing and I have kind of rattle when idling and sticking idle. I set my mixture screw 1,5 turn out from fully closed and idle screw a lot in. Bike idles really fine no matter if cold or hot, but when I blip the throttle idle sticks higher and remains until I put gear and loose the clutch a bit or plug exhaust with my hand, than idle is back at normal speed. Can it be because air leak? I have sprayed chain lube on carb manifold and no change, so there is no leak, but maybe crankshaft seal?? Although I have rattle on idle that I think is normal for 2T but maybe not. I have very similar rattle on Husqvarna WR 125 which is after engine rebuild. Is it normal or not? Maybe rattle from reeds? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIytJVgRp44
  3. Hey guys! first time poster here, and having some problems with my new to me 2006 DRZ400s. Upshifting works great, but when downshifting the shift lever does not always want to return to the neutral position, making it difficult to smoothly come to a stop. What I usually have to do is come to a stop in whatever gear I got stuck in and bump the shift lever until I can get it to go down to first. This doesn't always happen in higher gears but it happens almost every time trying to go from 2nd to 1st gear. An odd technique I found that helps is blipping the throttle up as I downshift, it seems the higher the revs, the more likely the lever is to reset. I have the most difficulty when coming to a stop with the throttle all the way rolled off. Another method that helps get from 2nd to 1st is letting out the clutch slightly, which will sometimes reset the lever. What could be the cause of this?? Any help to this motorcycle noob is greatly appreciated!
  4. I bought a 2008 YZ450F in decent condition. The throttle was tough to pull and struggled to retract, and sometimes simply refused without using force. As much as I like free cruise control on a racing bike, I would much rather ya know, live. i did a carburetor rebuild. Everything was mostly okay anyways besides a little dirt here and there. Adjusted the float, throttle does indeed respond well. Slide is not worn. I have confirmed the issue is not the carburetor end. The aftermarket throttle tube that was on there did not agree with the throttle housing and caused extreme friction. So I used an OEM one, seemed to solve the issue. Until I routed the throttle cables (yes, correctly.) and they started to disable the retraction AGAIN. so i got an OEM set of throttle cables. No matter how I install them, there is NO free play (which should be about 3mm, right?) when the cables are allowed to bow outwards of the bike, they retract the throttle properly. (Still without free play) But when routed correctly, they fail. What the heck is going on? Yes everything is lubricated and clean. It’s also mostly new so I don’t think wear is the issue... is my cable somehow too short? Should I try to cut some of the sleeve off of the throttle cables? Everything is adjusted to give as much slack as possible but it is not enough to give free play. please help! Time is of the essence.
  5. I've noticed that my throttle on my 16' YZ450FX takes a lot more to twist verses my prior KTM or some of my other buddies bikes. When I was at the National last year, Corey McDonald felt it was fairly tight too. He suggested I clean it and see if that helps. I did and it's still tight. Not ridiculously tight, but enough to cause fatigue during a hare scramble (I know... I know, I sound like a wuss! haha). Almost like the return spring is too tight. Is there a fix for this? Anyone else have this issue?
  6. hey guys, I did a little maintenance on the bike today and now it won't move. I replaced the counter shaft seal, performed a valve adjustment, replaced the air filter and replaced the rear brakes. After this I took it for a very short ride and about one minute in I heard a clunk and the bike died while in first gear clutch pulled. I tried starting it again while in first gear and clutch pulled in, bike ran but releasing the clutch the bike would barely move forward even with the clutch lever 95 percent released. The bike rolls perfectly smooth when in neutral and runs perfect when in neutral. With the engine off and the bike in first gear, it feels like the clutch isn't disengaging. Bike is almost impossible to move forward or backward like its in gear and the clutch isn't pulled. Ive adjusted the cables as far as they will go with no luck. Im wondering if any of the work I did could have caused this?
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