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Found 17 results

  1. So I stripped one of the screws on my reservoir cap for my front brakes. Anyone have any techniques for taking stripped screws out? I'm planning on replacing the whole reservoir cap with an aftermarket one, but I still need to get of the one I have on now. Thanks The aftermarket cap if anyone was curious: http://www.motosport.com/ride-engineering-front-brake-reservoir-cap?mmy=yamaha;yz450f;2017
  2. Does anyone know how I can get this cap off of my 2007 KX250F? It’s the bigger one that allows you to access the crank in order to put the engine at TDC and whatnot for setting the timing and stuff. I cannot for the life of me get it to break loose. I’ve tried drilling holes and using a punch and various tools to hammer it loose and it hasn’t worked at all. Not sure what to do at this point.
  3. OK here goes... Picked up an 04 200 EXC few months back, needed some work to say the least, wont go into detail of all the things i've fixed on the bike just the current and most present issue I cant seem to fix... it is smoking IE blue smoke/lots of splooge to the point that at the end of a few hour's ride, it's out the tail pipe, running down the back and dripping onto the swing arm/rear break caliper and blue smoking quite a bit. When I first got it, it smoked more and smelled like shit. So first things first went to the carb, I live on the Oregon coast (elevation/temp reference) it's old dirty/stained but inside looks good, came with jetting pilot-45, main-178 needle: no idea what brand guessing stock in the 3rd clip, adjusted the float height due to it leaking gas when bike was upright no tilt with the gas on, Bought JD jet kit and running pilot-45, Main-185 and Needle is blue 3rd clip (JD's recommend specs for my bike @ my attitude). I have also replaced my Inner crankcase seal twice (First time I thought I messed up the O-ring so redid to make sure). I've rebuilt the top end/new piston (same thing) cleaned the PV, NOTE HERE that the PV has some issues, it seems to work fine but the screw that goes on top of the cylinder, down into the PV/flap would not come out preventing me from removing the flap to clean it, however it move's/ function's correctly, and has minimum clearance on both sides. One of the PV cover bolts that also works at the exhaust spring holder, was over torqued at some point (impact driver prob), or a result in a hard impact, the hole the bolt goes into is flailed/jared open a bit, not bad, not in the way of any function/ PV Gearing/hinge, it is not needed for that area to be air tight as their is also a breather that goes out of the PV so will not result in an "air leak" or loss in Top end PSI.... anyway... it's still smoking.... quite a bit.. now the bike itself rides fine I feel, the carb does puke gas when tilted over slightly/ hard to start (kick start) after flooded (like all bikes tho) I don't have any stalling/low idle issues outside of user error on clutch control. Honestly outside of it smoking as much as it does I would think nothing is wrong with it.. I have also tried raising the needle Clip to 2nd clip and it changed nothing at all, not even feel of the bike/response and have a new Spark plug I have yet to put on the bike. I have also "compromised" the crankcase Gasket (new one in the mail) while I was putting the Crankcase back on but that should do nothing with the exhaust just a little gear oil leak not relevant but throwing it out there. So I am at a loss... I've been toying with the idea of getting a Lectron carb... However... would hate to drop $400~$500 and the issue still persist, if it's a jetting/carb/float issue that would fix it and improve MPH/fuel consumption Or something with the PV? but I don't see the PV causing that much smoke/sploogee... I've ridden the bike normally/hard and nothing's happened but I don't want to keep pushing it and possibly clip the bike. Any ideas? "Oh help me 2 stroke community you're my only hope"
  4. Well here I am again. Did a successful rebuild on my engine yet my dumbass managed to screw up re tapping those annoying shroud inserts on the gas tank. Yes I broke the tap off inside the insert. Saw all kinds of posts about how people had the bolt stuck and just spun it until it heated the surround plastic enough to let the insert slide out. But I’ve got a tap stuck inside. Nothing to grab onto or spin. Tried drilling and it’s not going too well. Any ideas? Also wouldn’t mind any ideas of how to fix the insert or what to use when I finally get this one out. But for now I’ve got my hands full.
  5. Hey, So the bolt that hold the rear brake pedal is stripped (well the threads in the frame). This is on a 2001 cr250. Because this is a special bolt with a collar for the brake pedal to sit on re-threading to the next size up bolt isn't really an option. Is there enough material there to drill out and us a helicoil? Would this be the best method? Anyone know the size/thread of the bolt off hand? side note: The bolt I had previous (fell out while riding and was a nice surprise when I went to hit the brake and couldn't find the pedal) and the new OEM one I got from Honda don't have any provision for a cotter pin even though the parts list show a cotter pin. did I just randomly have 2 bolts that are wrong or is this a 2000/2001 "special feature"
  6. The oil strainer on my WR250F is stripped. It won't thread itself out when loosening. I need to get it out and figure out what is stripped, the strainer threads, the frame threads, or both. Has anyone else experienced this or know what it is going take to fix? Thanks, BS
  7. kadkme1

    rocker stripped?

    hey guys. got a 04 ttr 225 here and alot of ticking in the head. went to adjust valves and intake checked out ok. exhaust on the other had is messed up. the little adjuster bolt thing with a square head wont thread in the rocker arm any more. it threads so far untill it just starts to stick out the bottom of the rocker then stops like it wont go any farther. almost like stripped or wrong bolt or something. very frustrating. it will run but with the most god awful head noise in the world!
  8. My CRF450R was hard to start, so I took it to a shop for Valve inspection They found the valves were way off, and they have now been set to: 222 on Top 2, 179 on Bottom 2 But they warned of a very big problem - the Upper Right Cam Tower bolt is stripped in the threading, and said that would require a new Head replacement They also said the Tensioner has no tension So I am wondering how serious of a problem the Stripped Threading is on the Head, because it seems to be very expensive fix. But they also said when the Cover is on, the bolt cannot escape. Some Question: 1) If I do ride it like this, can the problem get any worse - or has the damage been done and I may as well keep riding until it stops running if an entire head is to be replaced anyways 2) What parts will I exactly need in the replacement - because if I search for CRF450R HEAD, there are multiple parts packages and they are so pricey I want to ensure I get only what I need - seems like I may want to replace Valves too if they are close; and is the Tensioner a part of that package? 3) Should I try to get a Big Bore kit or something, so the large expenditure of time and money at least puts me to a point of better than stock? Thanks in advance - let me know if any pics or anything can help - really a sad day
  9. Look for some suggestions on repairing the Stripped male threads on the studs that clamp the front axle. As of know my thinking is to rethread it with the slightly smaller SAE threads and new bolt size. My guess is the previous owner overtightened and stripped them out. They were super loose when I loosened them when I changed the front wheel bearings.
  10. Hey everybody, long time lurker, first time caller, I'm in a bit of a pickle, I've seemed to mangle one of my carb's screws to the point of no return. One could say my carb's screw... is screwed! (Pun intended) Anyway, I ended up rounding the phillips head, then attempted to cut it into a flat head with a dremmel, stripping that too, and then trying to break it free with needle-nose vice grips, which wouldn't grip strong enough. I'll be going to the hardware store tonight to get a screw extractor to try, but I was wondering if anyone else had any ideas. Also, if I shear the head off where do I go from there? And don't worry, I already have the allen bolts to replace them with, just need to get this one out! Pics are below...
  11. So, i just bought my cr125 a couple weeks ago, and the bolts that go from the side panels to the seat are stripped. Everytime i try to remove it with a socket wrench, it just gets off, even with force added. The top of the bolt is stripped. I've tried cresent wrenches to fix it, and they just don't fit. I want to be able to remove my seat so I can get to the air filter to clean it, so far not going so good. Let me know what i can do to get the stripped bolts off!
  12. I recently purchased my son a used 07 CR85 and have made it a project bike build. After rebuilding most of the entire bike, I came across these two highly stripped out master cylinder screws. I am stumped, how can I get these suckers out without ruining the reservoir. Like many ham fisted bike owners, these suckers are in very tight.
  13. Is it possible to repair — or at least secure the bolt — in stripped gearcase threads? Picked up a used TTR50 for my daughter (she loves it!) and upon removing the training wheels — which attach via 4 bolts that hold the foot peg assembly and skid plate to the bottom of the engine — I discovered upon reassembly that one of the threads is stripped enough that the bolt slips on proper torque. Short of redrilling and tapping for a larger bolt, is there anything else that can be done to secure the bolt well? Thanks for amy tips!
  14. My seat bolt holes on the subframe are pretty much stripped on my 07 cr250. I’ve been using a beater seat off an 03 which doesn’t line up perfectly, so bolting the seat on has always been a pain and eventually caused the threads to strip from being removed so much to clean the air filter. Sounds like a helicoil would be a good fix? Does anyone know the specs of those seat bolts and what helicoil to get? Or perhaps retapping?
  15. I got gifted a pw80 from my uncle, figured I would start a new topic and pick your guy's brains if I have any questions, I'm a few days in and almost ready for her initial kick after being left outside to die since it broke its rear wheel clutch hub about a year ago. It was uncovered drinking water with no air filter, carb was toast, motor was seized, and every bearing, cable and movement point was frozen. I have about 20 hours into it and she's going back together. I know its a mortal sin but I disconnected the oil injection system and plan to run her premix'd. I've heard 32.1 is okay, but I want to run her oil heavy first tank since I'm sure the internals might be a little...… unwilling to move after sitting for a while. 120 main is what I heard will make them run okay, I'm at about 150ft above sea level, and bought a aftermarket carb QA parts carb from RMATVMC
  16. So I recently underwent the fiasco of dealing with stripped stud threads in the cylinder as a result of previous owner doings. In questioning the integrity of the other studs’ threads, I wondered if I could thread lock all of the other studs. Has anyone done this before? If I were to use it, considering I may want to remove the studs in the future for maintenance or something, would it be best to use blue or red loctite?
  17. Help! I had to remove the left side transmission case cover to retrieve a valve shim that had fallen down the side of the engine. When I was putting it back on I noticed two of the bolts wouldn' tighten all the way down. One was the short bolt that connect the oil filter cap to the case/cover and the other was a longer bolt that connects the cover to the transmission. Is there any alternate besides refilling a hole? Is this something I can use loctite on?
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