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Showing results for tags 'strippedbolt'.
OK here goes... Picked up an 04 200 EXC few months back, needed some work to say the least, wont go into detail of all the things i've fixed on the bike just the current and most present issue I cant seem to fix... it is smoking IE blue smoke/lots of splooge to the point that at the end of a few hour's ride, it's out the tail pipe, running down the back and dripping onto the swing arm/rear break caliper and blue smoking quite a bit. When I first got it, it smoked more and smelled like shit. So first things first went to the carb, I live on the Oregon coast (elevation/temp reference) it's old dirty/stained but inside looks good, came with jetting pilot-45, main-178 needle: no idea what brand guessing stock in the 3rd clip, adjusted the float height due to it leaking gas when bike was upright no tilt with the gas on, Bought JD jet kit and running pilot-45, Main-185 and Needle is blue 3rd clip (JD's recommend specs for my bike @ my attitude). I have also replaced my Inner crankcase seal twice (First time I thought I messed up the O-ring so redid to make sure). I've rebuilt the top end/new piston (same thing) cleaned the PV, NOTE HERE that the PV has some issues, it seems to work fine but the screw that goes on top of the cylinder, down into the PV/flap would not come out preventing me from removing the flap to clean it, however it move's/ function's correctly, and has minimum clearance on both sides. One of the PV cover bolts that also works at the exhaust spring holder, was over torqued at some point (impact driver prob), or a result in a hard impact, the hole the bolt goes into is flailed/jared open a bit, not bad, not in the way of any function/ PV Gearing/hinge, it is not needed for that area to be air tight as their is also a breather that goes out of the PV so will not result in an "air leak" or loss in Top end PSI.... anyway... it's still smoking.... quite a bit.. now the bike itself rides fine I feel, the carb does puke gas when tilted over slightly/ hard to start (kick start) after flooded (like all bikes tho) I don't have any stalling/low idle issues outside of user error on clutch control. Honestly outside of it smoking as much as it does I would think nothing is wrong with it.. I have also tried raising the needle Clip to 2nd clip and it changed nothing at all, not even feel of the bike/response and have a new Spark plug I have yet to put on the bike. I have also "compromised" the crankcase Gasket (new one in the mail) while I was putting the Crankcase back on but that should do nothing with the exhaust just a little gear oil leak not relevant but throwing it out there. So I am at a loss... I've been toying with the idea of getting a Lectron carb... However... would hate to drop $400~$500 and the issue still persist, if it's a jetting/carb/float issue that would fix it and improve MPH/fuel consumption Or something with the PV? but I don't see the PV causing that much smoke/sploogee... I've ridden the bike normally/hard and nothing's happened but I don't want to keep pushing it and possibly clip the bike. Any ideas? "Oh help me 2 stroke community you're my only hope"
Hello soldiers of mud DRZ 400: cheap bolts brought me here. my bike had replacement anodized bolt - M6: the seat bolt broke off in the frame threaded hole. I have to drill it. If I re-thread it, I have to move up a bolt size correct? Now I could weld an M6 NUT behind the drilled out frame hole. But I dont have a welder available. If I use a JB weld (weld in a tube) will it hold a nut to the frame? If it doesn't, then i'll struggle to get the bolt out of the nut...... rethread and move up to an M7? Bolt OR will JB weld hold a nut to the frame of the bike where the seat hole is on the bike's frame? Thanks!!
Hey there. I have recently purchased a 2015 Kx450f. On doing my first oil change on it yesterday when I pulled the secondary 8mm m6 thread drain plug out a bit of thread cam out on the end of it. When putting it back in I tightened it very gently to see but it gets firm and just keeps turning. I am wondering if. 1. I should helicoil it but I’m not sure if doing that will put heaps of metal shavings in the case. Or if it would even work due to the bolt being only around 10mm max. 2. use a new bolt and put a gasket maker or blue max on it and tighten it til it’s firm then let it set. There’s a loctite brand black gasket maker which is oil resistant maybe that would work? does anyone have experience with either of these things, or have a better idea cheers guys
Hello all, I am looking for the best solutions to a stripped out kick starter bolt. I've read that welding is not an option so I want to know what would be better. I'm worried about pre-drilling the shaft/ BOSS and putting a self tapper in there because the wall of the shaft looks thin. Is not fixing it an option? Will it cause issues (even though its a pain) to just leave it alone and have to put the kick starter on when i t needs to be kicked? Looking at the picture and the replacement bolt it looks like there could be room to get the broken screw out, what do you think? will it just cause more damage? Side note, i was not the one who stripped this bolt and i was not the one who tried to extract it so I'm not sure how it ended up looking like this. Ill be sure attach a few photos. Thanks in advance!