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Found 17 results

  1. Hello everyone, I've been away from the forum for a bit, after I ran the DRZ into the ground and couldn't fix it until now. I've read through many posts about big bores, but most of them are aimed at max HP and things like that. I'm not looking to make 55HP, but my engine is done so it needs everything. I ran the bike on the highway for too long, didn't check levels properly, vaporised all the oil and ruined the engine. The big end is gone, the cilinder wall is worn, the cams and chains are worn and even the valves are having issues. I ran it for a while with all these problems, since I had not other transport. Gotta love a bike on a budget.... For the last few weeks I've been looking for big bore kits and info on them. I want to build a DRZ that does a bit better on the highway, has more power overall but want it underpowered and overbuilt. Towards 50HP would be nice, but not a requirement. My budget is decent, but not endless, which gives me a problem: there are soooooo many brands and styles around, I can't see the forest through the trees. The prices differ immensely, as does quality. On top of that there are setups that just run on race gas, which I can't over here, so I'm looking for a streetable setup. Since I live in the Netherlands, Europe, I have to ship everything over, and to save money in the long run I would rather spend a bit more initially and get it right, instead of getting three different kits. Its a 2005 SM with a stock engine, I will get: Big Bore cilinder (not set on cc's, but looking around the 470 range) Piston Stroker crank/rod (crank is most likely done) Cams (don't need super hectic lift and duration) ACT gears Carb (39 or 41) All the consumables and bearings Its fitted with a Leovinci 3X, have the 3x3 mod, valve and other smog stuff is removed. Not a brand fanboy specifically, I've looked at and could find out about them: MaxRPM, both IceCube and the Stealth, looks great but pricey. CilinderWorks, not sure what their quality is but they're cheap. Athena, mixed reviews and medium pricing. HotRods cranks, famous name but no idea on durability. HotCams & Web Cams, I don't have a preference, whichever gets me the best cam. And a bunch of brandless cilinders, packaged with branded items. Impossible to find out what the level of quality is. Who can help me out on deciding on this setup? More top speed, more power over the whole range, but rather have less power and more reliability than maximum RPM. I know the best solution is OEM, but since I'm building it, I might as well add to it.
  2. Sunflash

    RTW 470

    So I have done lots of searching but can't seem to turn up the info I am looking for. So after a 25,000 mile run from Deadhorse, AK to Yaviza, Panama and back to my home in Alaska on a Rally Raid Level 3 CB500X..... I am now going back to my roots and picked up a 2004 DRZ 400 with about 2900 miles on it. Lots of reasons for it but the cut it short I know I was looking for something different for the rest of the ride around the globe. So my plan is to build a bombproof DRZ that can take me everywhere and back. To that effect I have already ordered an Athena 440 kit, will be going with the Hotrods +4mm crank kit, and the ACT wide ratio gears. Where my plan differs from most of the other power mongers is that I want to keep the compression low enough to run low regular fuel without going nuclear. That type of tuning runs a bit contrary to everything I can find info on. So who out there has done a low comp 470? Since the plan is a mild state of tune rather than the usual fire breather everyone else is trying to build does anyone have a good recipe for the spacer or gaskets to keep the compression low enough? Cams for the milder state of tune? FCR 39 going to be enough carb or should I be looking to the 41? My engine building has been limited to old air-cooled 4 cylinders and for max grunt not longevity on crap fuel. Lots more will be done to the bike but the motor spec is one of the ones leaving me a little out in the cold. Want the grunt of a bigger motor to pull the wide gears but not the short life of a rocket ship. Thanks for the help.
  3. So my nephew bought an 05kx125 and was told it was a 144. The cylinder is an athena as well as the head. He was putting a new ring in it and realized it is not a 58mm bore but a stock 54mm bore. He also noticed the rod was longer than stock. He thinks it is 1.5mm longer than stock. He has no idea what is the brand of the rod. He also mentioned the height of the cylinder is higher than a stock one. We assume it’s for the longer stroke. Does anyone know if Athena offers a striker version with a stoke displacement? Not sure how he would put a new bottom end in the motor. Any insight would be of help, thanks.
  4. eddster500r

    DRZ400 Mods

    2009 DRZ400sm I bought this bike with a little less then 600 miles. I have since put down more 60000 miles on the bike. I thought I would share a little about my bike and the modes i have been able to do. 1. Gearing I Run a 16 tooth front sprocket and a 37 tooth rear. And you can go all the way down to 35 tooth if you wanted to slightly modify the rear hub. I would advise against this. My opinion, a with mildly modified DRZ(exhaust and 3x3 mod) I would not go with taller gearing than 16-39 or 15-37. 2. Rear Tire, You can run up to 160/60 R17, My opinion 150/70 R17 is the best handling. 3. Rewiring Charging cable, by shortening and using a thicker gauge wire that is routed from the battery over to the starter relay and then back into the loom. As well as bringing down the Fuse AMP down to 15amp. 15amp is enough to operate 100 watts of light. 4. 4mm Stroker, Can be installed using the stalk piston and 91 pump gas. 5mm stroker needs to modify the crank case and replace the piston.
  5. I have a drz400s with a +4mm stroker kit. I was running a 4 layer base gasket to lower the compression bit ended up blowing a head gasket anyway from not tightening down the head enough ( did the 34.5 from the factory manual saw on here it was supposed to be 43). Now when the head gasket blew the head warped slightly so I got it resurfaced. When I got it resurfaced the machinest said he had to take .07 inches off which seems like a lot to me. Now with a stroker and that reduction in clearance I'm worried about where the compression ratio is. Has anyone in a similar situation got any insight? Should I be alright with a 4 layer base gasket or am I sitting on a ticking time bomb. Thanks.
  6. Run 1 is a 2013 Drz400sm with 3x3 mod, FCR carb, and yoshi exhaust. (32.45 HP) Run 6 is my personal bike 2006 Drz400s (64.66 HP) -Myers Racing 94mm big bore kit -Myers Racing +4mm stroker crank -Myers Racing stage 3+ Cylinder head (Moldstar90 valve seats, Bronze valve guides, Stage 3 port) -Web cam (MR grind) -Ferrea valves (+1mm all 4) -Isotropic treatment on transmission -43.5mm FCR carb -K&N filter
  7. Alright good news. Had saved up a bunch of money expecting to owe a significant amount for taxes.. Turns out I don't owe nearly as much!! Time to put the money to good use and build a nice performance motor for my drz. I am planning on doing a full 470 kit from ebay (Stage 2 cams, +4mm Crank, 94mm Piston/Jug) Has anybody else done this big of a displacement change? If so how bad will this hurt my reliability? I know it wont be nearly as reliable as stock, obviously.. just wanted to get a few opinions before I jump into ordering everything. Also, if I follow through with it I would be doing the MX39 carb swap. I am running a new Yoshi RS-2 full system, but will swap to MRD if it will make a significant difference. Thank you guys, Brad
  8. My trusty 2004 CRF450R is finally ready for a complete rebuild. I bought the bike new, rode my then 2 year old son on it, now he rides it and rides it well. We would like to up the low to mid grunt. Any recommendations? ML
  9. I blew up my '14 drz S a few weeks ago. Started, and ran cold up to to redline one the highway. I know it was dumb. But i have since installed a big bore kit and stroker crank. I also had the head serviced with new SS valves and had it ported and polished at Fastheads. I was running the 3x3 mod, and a JD jet kit. Everything else stock. Wondering if the bike will run well with stock carb and pipe, and what jetting to use. If it will run like crap, what carb and pipe do I want to run? (I want a quiet pipe) Normal operation is at 600 ft and cool, but do travel to colorado often.
  10. Hi all, I recently picked up a new project. A 1998 Beta Techno. The previous owner had almost everything redone on the engine. Repleted cylinder, new Vertex piston, new main and transmission bearings, along with some other stuff. I got it all back together and have been having some trouble with the engine. Before I say anything else I want to state what I have already done. Completely rebuilt the carb and cleaned every fuel and air passage on it. I have the float height set slightly leaner than the manual says because it dumps fuel out of the overflow when set to the stock position. It's got a 27.5 pilot and a 145 main jet, stock is 30 and 150. The needle is in the leanest position, the top notch (all positions still have the same revving problem). It seems to run rich at idle so I've got more pilot jets on the way. Freshly oiled air filter and no leaks in either of the rubber carb mounts. As for the electronics, I got two CDI boxes (with different numbers on them) and two ignition coils when I bought the bike. Both CDI boxes produce the same problem. The fan seems to be quite temperamental and even when I disconnect it entirely from the stator I still have the revving problem. It came with a receipt for a new stator and the stator looks to be new. I've got a 30x1.5 flywheel puller on the way because Beta decided to make the flywheel a weird size. I want to check the position of the stator to see if I installed it incorrectly. After 1/4 throttle the bike doesn't rev higher, when I open the throttle anymore it smokes like crazy. Reeds are slightly worn the top petals have less than 1mm of gap, I've run worse without issue. Would a slightly misaligned stator even cause such a problem? Do you guys think this is a fuel or electrical problem? Any help is appreciated. I found a video of someone with the same bike who has the exact same problem I do: https://youtu.be/k-jy6bw6d6g
  11. Hello All I am in serious despair!, I have been waiting 6months to repair my crf450r 2012 after the big end breaking. I bought second hand left and right crankcases (from a 2012) and a hotrods stroker/cylinder works big bore kit from a eBay seller. this kit is advertised as bolt on!, after installation the piston locks just before TDC, after inspection I was shocked to see the the piston raises about 1mm above the cylinder ??? WTF!. I have searched the internet and found no other issues of this sort, I checked the boxes and they all say for a 2009-2012, the kit did have 2 base gaskets and 2 head gaskets :-k . any help would be much appreciated as the seller does not respond and I have no idea what I should do. thanks in advance, Lee
  12. Hi all. I’m fairly experienced at working with engines, but that being said, every engine has its own specific issues... I recently purchased a new to me trail bike. A 1995 klx250. That looked to be in decent shape. Other than some popping on decel and at idle”what little it would idle” .. which I chocked up to a dirty carb. After getting it home and doing some more research.. I realized that this bike has had some “Stroker” mods done. The P.O installed a Stroker manual decomp lever, and hot start plunger routed from the air box to a port on the intake. And swapped the carb with a minkuni tm33 pumper carb, with a 142.5 main and 42.5 pilot .. I cleaned the carb checked the spark plug and have managed to get the bike running but the idle is very high and uneven and it is still Popping and idles rough ... when I try to turn down the idle adjustment to wear it should be it dies. In my experience I would say vacuum leak but I can’t seem to locate one anywere round the carb...any ideas? ... also I have the air/fuel screw turned out about 2 1/4 turns. Any one else had this issue with these mods. Any trouble areas to check out ? Generally I would just keep tinkering, but I haven’t got a lot of time to spend on it, so thought maybe someone would have some ideas. bike specs cyl250cc, comp 165psi., carb: tm33 pumper with 142.5 main and 42.5 pilot. Air screw about 2 turns out. With an open air box lid and a k&n filter
  13. I'm just starting to think about rebuilding my spare DRZ engine. I though I'd run the common knowledge stuff past here to see if there is anything I've missed. The engine is a 2007 E spec engine and has done 172.5 hours, the reason for failure is quite simply lack of maintenance and then lack oil, this lead to the cam eating the head due to oil starvation and was the reason that I purchased the bike - which is now my fully rebuilt 434 adventure machine with my last rebuilt motor in it (it was supposed to be a 462cc but I was duped by an EBAY kit seller). This is a longer term, time taking, exercise as most parts required will have to be ordered from overseas. The last time I did this it took well over six months to complete, however I'm in no rush. I have a good used head ready for a refresh. I am intending on using the old head for some practice at @mixxer 's porting before having a go at the new head. The motor is intended for road SM use and will be a 462cc, comprising of a stroker crank and big bore piston. So on the list: And any other item that presents as worn, broken, bent or out of specification that is unknown at this point. Most of the OEM parts will be from Partzilla, Other parts the TT store I have a set of Webcams 540/539 grind to fit There is a few other things also, mainly cosmetic, the clutch cover is missing the bottom fixing hole. Several bolts are "well used" and rounded, nothing some aftermarket bling bit's wouldn't fix. I was thinking a pro-bolt DRZ kit : https://www.probolt-australia.com/aluminium-engine-kit-suzuki-drz400/ and this for the buggered clutch cover: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Engine-Crankcase-Right-Clutch-Cover-Outer-For-Suzuki-DRZ400-400S-400E-400SM/164146833948
  14. I am currently rebuilding my yfz450. I decided to buy the hot rods 500cc stroker kit. I was wondering what jets I need to run. It has full fmf exhaust, uni filter, riding at 800ft. Above sea level. I currently have a ncqv needle on hand along with 170 through 180 main jets, and 45 through 55 slow jets. I don't want to do the trial and error thing for two weeks, what should I start with?
  15. Hi all, I recently acquired this DRZ from a buddy who had recently installed a 470 bore and stroke kit. Besides the 3x3 air filter and full delkevic exhaust (holy loud) the carb and cams are stock besides jetting (unknown sizes). Me being me, I got into researching the FCR carbs after hearing about them and got my hands in a brand new FCR MX 41 from the netherlands. It's got TPS and hot start. I ordered the 3d printed carb adapter for the non removable bell and an OEM drz400e intake boot. I asked the seller about how it's jetted right now and this was his response: Pilot- 55 Main- 180 Starter- 85 Main air- 200 Pilot air- 100 Then this...leak/needle 0,0 / OBDVR @ 5/7 Not sure what that all means. Could use some direction on where to go with the jetting. Would like to order any other necessary parts before the carb shows up next week. Thanks in advance.
  16. EDIT: ACT sorted me out after calling them. This is not trying to defame them, just trying to get my bike running before Friday. Their sales department is great, they're sending me the missing gear priority and are comping the taxes and duties. Can't wait to finally ride my bike with the ACT box. Hey all, I ordered an ACT gear set to put in my 470 stroker, but someone &%$#@!ed up royal and they sent me two third gears....not sure how low your IQ needs to be to make this mistake, but someone did...my mistake has been that I couldn't imagine someone being this stupid, so I never checked. I'm leaving for a bike trip this friday, the rest of the rebuild had been done and it was just about to be put together. Does anyone have a spare set laying around, or the 22 tooth fourth gear? I really don't want to rebuilt it with the old box and having to re-do the whole thing.
  17. Can anybody help with some information on a PR2 build cost? Long story short, bought a used RM85L that had a ton of work done. Full PR2 Suspension, PC pipe, assortment of anodized fasteners and brackets... But the one thing I can't find a price on, nor can my local shop, is how much the engine will cost to be repaired back to it's pre-theft condition. It is an RM112 Works Stroker Motor from PR2 Racing. The police need a quote and the PR2 website doesn't have anything set in stone. Have any of you recently purchased this package from PR2, and if so, could you tell me the cost before tax? When the bike was stolen, I had just removed the gas tank and top end to replace the piston and ring. This was late 2016. Jeff had corresponded with me at that point, and after inspection of all parts, he said the piston looked ok so just buy a ring. Whoever had stolen the bike also stole the box of parts sitting next to it (but they forgot to grab the gas tank and frankensteined an older one on LOL), and put everything back together. In doing so, they put too long of a bolt in the power valve cover, cracking a small part of the cylinder, left a large amount of dirt and debris in the bottom end, only torqued 3 out of the 4 base nuts, improperly torqued the head (pr2 super coolhead) leading to combustion gasses leaking into the coolant passages, and made numerous other smaller careless mistakes. Thanks for any help!
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