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Found 145 results

  1. The pds shock on my 2014 300 xc-w broke down and im looking for a replacement. Will a shock coming from a 2014 250 exc-f fit my bike? they have different part numbers so im not sure 12.18.7L.63 -- 300 xc-w shock part number 12.18.7L.67 -- 250 exc-f shock part number thanks 👍
  2. Wow, it's been a few years since I've been on here. Glad to see old farts like greyracer are still on here helping guys out. I recently had an experience that I had to pass along though so I thought I'd log in here and see what's up. I was going through one of my favorite bikes, my "old" '06 YZ450. (I recently rode a couple '17 KTM's and it made me appreciate my YZ even more.) While I was freshening up the suspension, I thought I'd lower it a little bit in the process. I've always been happy with the suspension on that bike so I didn't want to go crazy with big changes, just a little tweaking. Anyway, I needed some shock oil and seals and I wanted to see if anyone local had any in stock. (Something that is getting harder and harder to do. For the local SF Bay Area people, we just lost Zoom Cycles, THE go-to parts and accessories store for the last 45 years.) I do a little google searching and find Dave Johnson of Smart Performance is local to me. I give him a call and sure enough, he has everything I would possibly need for any suspension work I wanted to do. He puts together an order and I drive over to pick it up. I'm greeted by an obviously VERY intelligent, articulate, helpful and nice guy. I show him what I'm doing and he gives me tons of ideas and suggestions. I leave with everything I would need to build the shock and fill it with oil and nitrogen myself. The next day I realize that having a guy that's done hundreds, if not thousands of shock rebuilds purge the oil of bubbles in a vacuum chamber he built just for that purpose would probably be better than me trying to do it myself. I asked him if he would vacuum and charge the shock and he said no problem, bring it down! When I went back to have him do the shock, I also brought my fork parts to ask him about lowering ideas. Again, he gave me a ton of excellent information and some upgrade parts to put into the forks in the process. I left with a filled and charged shock in my hand that I had 100% confidence in it being filled perfectly with all air purged properly. I then spent some time on my lathe making a couple spacers for lowering the forks. Just for the h#ll of it, I thought I'd send him some pictures of what I came up with. AGAIN, he gave me his invaluable input and suggestions and it pushed me to make another set of spacers that I could be absolutely positive would work perfectly and dependably. I'm generally a pretty independent thinker and worker. When somebody influences me to be BETTER than I think I can be or do, that impresses me A LOT. Dave's suggestions and thoughts "pushed" me to do a better job and come up with a better final solution. For that, I wanted to return the favor by letting everyone know my personal experience with Dave and Smart Performance. I know this won't come as a surprise to many here, but I just thought I'd share anyway. I'm a HUGE fan of smart people openly sharing knowledge, and Dave is absolutely one of those people. Thanks Dave! John (aka gmtech16450yz everywhere else on the web. Google search that or "john's sky redline".)
  3. My question is in regards to my front forks for the second-hand bike I just purchased. I have been looking all over the internet for the last three days to find out a similar issue to mine, so I know where to start. When ever the bike is off the stand there is a excessive amount of slack in the front forks from the point where I pull the handlebars up to fully extend the forks to the point where the settled without out my weight on them. The issue is that there is virtually no tension in the process. The vertical free play/slack is far too much. Low oil, Shock springs worn, a need for spacers? I don't see any signs of leaking on the bushings. Compared to my other bike it is nowhere near the same. Im just wondering where to start and to look to help fix this because I can't find any troubleshooting that relates to this issue or has a term for this excessive vertical free play in the forks . The bike is a 2004 KX100. Any Info would be much appreciated. Thanks
  4. Hello, I am looking for a used 125cc dirt bike. I am puzzeled because I do not know what I want, what would you guys recommend and why would you recommend it. Also where could I get performance mods, specifically suspension and which of the bikes have the most tuning capabilities. I've narrowed my choices down to Kawasaki kx,Honda cbr/xr, Yamaha yz, and Suzuki rm around the 2000-2005 range. I'd rather hear from people who owned one of the bikes but advice from any of the experts is welcome P.S I'm sorry for any mistakes like the wrong "sub forum" or grammar as I'm on mobile
  5. i have been looking all over this forum for a definitive answer to this and some have said yes it will work, and some have said no because the shock clevis lengths and mounting bolts are not the same length. Someone please give insight to this. asking because i have a 03 cr250r and found a great deal on a 05 crf450r with a 5.7 kg/mm spring in it ( i weigh 220 lbs) on ebay.
  6. Hi All, Trying to start a suspension collective, Year and Model Valving (Factory Connection, Racetech, stillwell, etc.) Class (AA, A, B, C) Terrain Weight Springs Rider sag Clickers Comments on feel Ill start 2016 YZ250X Valving - Stock Class - C Terrain - New England woods, single track and hare scrambles Weight - 200 lbs of glory Springs - Shock 5.6kg Factiory Connection , Forks 0.46kg Factory Connection Rider sag 105mm Clickers - Front Comp 15 out, Rebound 15 out - Shock Rebound 14 out, High speed 1 and 3/4 turns out, Low speed 11 out Just changed settings as the factory 12 and 12 were too stiff for the roots and rock gardens. Felt amazing in the turns and on fast and flowy. Just upgraded springs to weight appropriate - will update once I ride Wednesday.
  7. Hey all, I have a model year 2000 drz400s that sits very low, the rear especially. It looks like all 2000s do from what google shows me. Why is this? I know so little has changed over the years and suspension is one of the things that actually has. Is the rear shock shorter? Linkage different? Anyone know?? I'd like to get the rear up to "modern" or "normal" height, the front I'm ditching for an SM front anyway. All searches I've done return only how to install lowering links to adjust height which obviously doesn't apply... Thanks!
  8. Is there ANYONE out there on this forum who can give a good honest and experienced review of how well the Slavens Stink Bug Killer works on XC-W models? Stink Bug Killer: Slavens Racing I'm 6'2" 190lbs geared up and have no need for a lower seat height, however it's advertised to make the bike much more stable at speeds. Sounds pretty general... Will a stock bike with SBK handle whoops? I'd rather spend $40 than $900 getting suspension reworked (probably still will). I wanna know how much different the bike handles with a SBK installed. Thanks, all
  9. I found a mint 2000 XR200R for sale, but I have a question about suspension travel before I drive out to buy it for my son. Somewhere here I saw a list of suspension travel by year (Chuck?) that notes a substantial drop in the year 2000. But everywhere else on line says there was no change at all from years 1992-2002 (cycle chaos, dirt rider, bikez specs). No change in suspension travel, and no change in seat height after 1992. Where has anyone seen the published specs showing this year 2000 change? I have googled and just can't find it....
  10. Hey guys I need some input on tuning my suspension for freeride/enduro. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here's my stats for reference: Bike: 2017 KTM 500 EXC Riding weight: 170lb Tire pressure: 10psi Sag: 115mm Current Settings: -Fork: compression stock, rebound -2 clicks slower -Shock: Low speed stock, High speed stock, Rebound -2 clicks slower -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Current Issue: The other day I did a hillclimb 3rd gear dicked a couple times. When my front wheel hit the rock outcroppings the front end really spanked into the rocks, I felt really hard hits in the bars, like the rim hit the rock. Same feeling when I hit potholes rippin 4th hard, the front end really bangs hard and the bike gets hucka bucka. Anyone with some experience have any suggestions what needs to be done here?
  11. I’m a DIY’fer all the way. But I’m wondering if I can change my Factory Connection springs (front: from .48 to .50, rear: from 6 to 6.7) on my 2012 YZ250 without changing other parts (other than obviously the seals for the forks) and if so what parts and where to buy them? There’s only a few parts available in the FC site that I could find. I already ordered my springs. What other type DIY service can be done? Any advice/guidance will be greatly appreciated! #yz250 #factoryconnection #doityourself #suspension #onabudget #frontforks #rearshock #spring #kyb
  12. Hey guys, I recently sold my 2001 YZ 125, and bought multiple YZ's... a 1998, a 2001, and a 2002. I rode all 3 and I know for a fact the 1998 YZ is the most quick. When you throttle it, it will go. The 2001 YZ 125 is average. Lastly, the 2002 is really fast (fastest YZ 125 I've ever ridden), but has no compression. It's weird that it has no compression, yet it's the fastest. I'm not sure what the PO's did with the carb or piston on the 1998 and 2002. I am selling the 1998 and the 2001, but keeping the 2002 YZ 125 since it has the updated plastics and stuff. Anyways, the suspension on the bikes are all garbage, and since I'm selling two, I don't want to fix it. But for my bike, how can I fix it? It is extremely bouncy, and when I go over a small hole, I literately jump 1 foot out of my seat and land really hard. If I harden the shocks, it will have no rebound and will also throw me off. What should I do? Also, shouldn't I set it up to my weight? Do I set the sag or does it need to get set up by a company like Pro Circuit? I would probably leave the front forks the way it is, unless it's required. Let me know, thanks.
  13. Great illustration on how to calculate triple clamp offset: http://litetek.co/Guide_TripleClampOffset_Honda_CB1.html
  14. I need to do the forks on: 2012 WR450F 2007 YZ250 Is there a trick to getting the compression damper piece out without that special fork cap tool? Heres what im talking about: 2012 WR450F 2007 YZ250 I rebuilt a pair of AOS forks with no special tools but I think the compression body came out with a 17mm socket. It was off a 2008 KLX450, I'm PRETTY sure top looked like this: Maybe someone can verify that 2008 KLX450R forks have that style of top cap. I cant remember and the bike is not in my possession atm. I dont like buying model specific tools so if there is a trick to getting those compression caps off let me know!
  15. So I emailed Factory Connection today to see what spring rate I need for the rear as I’m about 6’2” 220 lbs without gear. I also asked for a baseline front fork PSI to start at. This is what I received: Nicholas, The spring series we made for your bike is limited when it comes to larger/stiffer rates. The spring rate you need is 5.9/6.0 range. We don’t sell that over the counter as it requires special installation process. So we can’t sell the spring “over the counter”. It would have to be installed at our shop. Fork PSI I would recommend: Inner 160 psi Outer 11 psi Balance 160 psi Are they blowing smoke up my ass? What kind of ‘special installation’ could a spring take? I’ve changed and removed them before but not on a 16’ CRF before. Also, aren’t those psi settings for the Kawasaki KYB? I don’t think the psf2 have inner/outer/balance do they? Maybe he was having a bad day...or maybe I’m an idiot. FC’s website list there spring as ALS-0059. Can I not just order this spring and install it to set my sag correctly? Help?
  16. Hello, My name is Dan. I recently bought a 2001 yz125. I have been having jetting issues that i cant seem to fix. I have rebuilt the carb, tried a JD Jetting kit, and new reeds and nothing is working. I am looking for someone in the Central Jersey area who is willing to help me work on my bike and get it running strong. I have all tools necessary. I would pay $25 dollars per hour. This is completely legitimate. Feel free to text me at 908-448-9639. Located in Central New Jersey
  17. As the subject says, is the standard suspension up to par with what for example KTM is putting out now? Or should I plan on getting something like Fox or RG3... Boy rides MX
  18. Hi my brother has a 2006 trx300ex and we were starting to go ride and about 3 minutes into our ride he stopped because he noticed the front right side of the quad sagging down and we looked at it and the Front right shock was snapped at the bottom where it connects to the A arm and oil was leaking out of it. Has anyone ever had this happen to them?
  19. Hey guys, so recently I've noticed that my front pro circuit suspension is stiffer than hell. So I read on it and it said that sometimes it's because the front wheel is misaligned and the forks will not sit right. So I put the bike on a stand bled the suspension and got the axle nut loose and the pinch bolts, and every body said to push the suspension down or even press the brakes a few times to help align the wheel. I made sure to tighten the axle then tightened the pinch bolts. But when I tried to push the suspension down while everything was loose it barely moves at all because it's so stiff. I even tried putting the bike on the stand and turning the clickers counter clockwise to soften them up but they were out of adjustment. What do I Do? How do you guys realign the wheel? I've got a riding trip coming up soon and need as much help as I can get. I'll try to add a link to video I found of a bike doing the same thing.
  20. Hi, I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot. I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled. I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled? I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock. I must have been made of cheap pot-metal. Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism? Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome! Thanks!
  21. I have 05yz125 and do mostly trail ride. I’m 5’8” and don’t ride often enough. I was considering lowering the stance of my bike to see if it make it easier to handle in tight trails. Any thought on linkage changes and how to adjust the front forks accordingly?
  22. Today we’re going to be talking a little bit about automotive suspensions and how they work to smoothen the ride of your car. There are mainly three purposes of the automotive suspension system. First, they support the weight of the vehicle. Second, they maintain accurate tire contact with the ground. And third, they absorb any shock that you get through the road when you hit a bump. Most modern vehicles come with an independent front suspension. Which means if one wheel hits a bump it does not disturb the other wheel. Nowadays, people use Coil Spring to support the majority of weight in the car. As it has a really good characteristics for absorbing any bumps as you go up and down on the road. However Springs aren’t very good at dissipating that energy. In fact that’s why you have the shock absorber. Which is there to smoothen out the ride and make sure the tire maintains contact with the road. In modern passenger vehicles the two most popular suspensions are McPherson strut and double wishbone style of suspension. The main advantage of the McPherson strut suspension is that it’s really cheap and simple that’s why a lot of manufacturers are moving towards this design. The double wishbone design allows the wheel to stay perpendicular to the body as it navigates a corner or as it goes over a bump. And that maintains good tire contact patch no matter where the wheel is situated. Another advantage of this design is that it can be made adjustable where you can control the position of upper control arms ball Joints. Click to Know More About Ball Joints and other Suspension Components
  23. Hey guys, this is my first post so hopefully I'm posting in the right area! I just bought an '01 XR50 for my son a couple of days ago and overall it seems to be in pretty decent shape. I know that I will definitely need to replace the rear shock and the rear swing arm bushings. For the rear shock I'm not entirely sure of where to start. There is a lot of info online about replacing shocks on these bikes but most are upgrading it or converting it into a pit bike I think. In my case that's not what I'm interested in doing because my son is 3yrs old, approximately 35lbs, and I'm assuming that staying close to stock is perfectly fine. That being said, I don't know that I need to buy an OEM shock, or even that I need to replace the whole shock. Should I just replace the spring and seals? I honestly have no idea. If I buy an aftermarket shock I just want to make sure that its the right size for what I'm intending on doing here. I grew up riding dirt bikes and have worked on them a bit but never the suspension components. Thanks guys! Cam
  24. Ok, I'm new to trying to tune-in my suspension, and although im watching videos on it and trying to learn, I have a few questions on how I should set my sag with resprung and revalved suspension. Base parameters are this: Bike is a 2017 Husky FE 450 with the WP explor suspension. Tank is an aftermarket 4.5 gallon capacity, if front end load makes any difference with this topic. Both front and rear springs are swapped to a step heavier from stock. Forks are .49 and shock is 5.1 Both front and rear springs have also been professionally revalved along with the spring swap. I installed the modified suspension back on the bike myself, so the shop didnt personalize the setup. Using a Tusk sliding sag scale I measured the following values while following the instructions in both the manual and the scale: Sag of the bike unloaded and off the stand was 46mm. The manual indicates it should be 35mm. Sag of the bike loaded with me on it and no gear was 114mm. The manual indicates it should be 110mm. *I know I need to do this loaded up with gear, but I wanted to get a feel for what I was doing before loading up with everything. (Weight- wise, I know my gear adds 20 lbs, maybe another 8 on top of that depending on tools carried and water) That said, I am trying to get the current values to what the manual requires. It seems like I should be elongating the spring to drop from 114mm to the manual recommended 110mm- even further elongated with weight of gear on. If I do this im wondering- first of all- if that is correct, and if that would automatically bring the unsprung sag to the manuals 35mm from 46mm, or if I would need to make any other adjustments at that point. Im not sure what those would be if so. Then, with that sorted, Im thinking all Id need to do is set my clickers both compression and rebound. Id like the suspension on this bike to be a bit more plush than firm, and Id want to set the compression and rebound clickers accordingly. However, even that is a little confusing to me as Im not sure if both need to be at the same number of clicks to the softer setting, or if one would be softer than the other. This whole thing is a bit confusing for a suspension noob like me, so any input is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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