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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
Found 13 results
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Hi everyone and merry chrimbo to all. Ive pretty much finished my resto project and everything’s great apart from the dim lights. I bought the bike with the problem, and thought it would be an easy fix. Nothing seems to fix the fault. So far, I’ve replaced the whole wiring harness, the rear light and wires, brake light switch and wires, front light holder and wires, speedo cable and wires. All 6v bulbs and I even had the light coils checked and replaced. So everything has been done apart from the handlebar switchgear. I had the frame powdercoated, but sanded the main earth point for the harnsess, so it’s a good earth. Even, ground two points of the five engine mounting points away hoping that might help. All the electrics work like they should including the pass light, just dim lights. Has anyone had this problem? Does the engine need to be grounded at every point? I thought if the engine had one good ground that would be enough. Really at a loss with this, and if I can’t sort I have to admit defeat and had it over to an auto electrician ?
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I have a 2014 450 XC-W. I'm adding high/low beam, signals, horn, etc. I'm aware of the Sicass kit options but I chose to order OE KTM EXC harness components. I ordered the lighting and turn signal harness for a 2014 EXC (77711079000 and 77711081000) and decided for the time being not to install a keyed ignition switch. Instead, I ordered the key switch eliminator jumper (781119990000). I also got the Euro headlight and flasher switch (78111070000 & 78111029000). In looking at the parts breakdown, the XC-W and the EXC have the same "main" harness (7811075133). I'm in the process of installing the EXC harnesses and most of it is falling into place. Except for one thing; on the EXC, the key switch eliminator jumper simply replaces a jumper that's already in the harness. You simply unplug the ignition switch, install the key switch eliminator jumper in place of the stock jumper and you're good to go. Here's the thing; I don't have the "stock" jumper anywhere in my harness nor do I see the four pin connector where the EXC keyed ignition switch would plug into. Again, I realize my bike is an XC-W and the ignition switch wiring was not stock on this bike, but I have installed the lighting and flasher harness for the EXC. All other harness part numbers I can find are common between the XC-W and the EXC. I can't find a single harness part number that differs between the EXC and my XC-W (now that I've installed the two EXC harnesses). I can only assume the stock jumper and the four-pin ignition switch connector are part of an EXC specific harness, but I'm stumped as to which harness that could be. Again, I don't see any harness part number variation between the XC-W and EXC models. Thoughts?
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Hello, I have a 1989 XR250R that I am going to convert to a dual sport. I ordered the Tusk lighting kit and the drum brake switch. However, I do not know how to install the front brake light switch. What part would I need and how would I install? Sorry I am a noob. Thanks
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Hey All, This could just be me being a dumbass but I'm 100% sure that the gas switch is on PRI when it is running and it runs great, idols fine. But then I switch it to "on" and will be riding for a little and it the engine stops running and acts like it does when something runs out of gas. Any thoughts? Could the vacuum that sucks the gas be broken? Is it bad to run on PRI? Thanks
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Hello, I have an issue with my 2006 DRZ 400s. This is the first time posting. I have notice that when I am riding my bike at 60 to 75 MPH, I will start to get coolant going into the overflow bottle. In a 3 mile trip at 60 to 65, I will have about 5/8 " of fluid in the overflow bottle. At 40 miles or slower i never get coolant in the bottle. Fan comes on and off. I have checked, Fan works good, T-stat opens when it should, No air pockets in the radiator, did a test on the head gasket at top dead center and its good. Water pump is working good too. check in the radiators and both are clean. Running with the new stock radiator cap with 1.1 bar. The hot light works, but it's never came on. When i let the bike just idle, fan come on and off and i might get a spoon full of fluid in the bottle. I bought this bike used. I do not know if the carburetor as been re-jetted. Please help
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Hey everyone. I’ve got a 2019 beta xtrainer. Previous owner removed the horn/blinker/light cluster. The headlight works but is dim. I’ve been told that is neither high or low beam but a 5w pilot light. I’d really like to be able to at least have one of the 2 (high or low) that provides some light for when I’m headed back to the pickup at dusk. Is there a particular switch I can buy? Also...electrical is pretty foreign to me, and although I can work my way through lots of things I’m a bit nervous about this. Lots of wires and connections... I found this switch (link below) but it’s sold out. I can’t imagine this is a super difficult process, anyone have any suggestions? http://sicassracing.com/store/products/switches/head_light_switches/2015_beta_bar_mounted_hi_lo_off_head_light_switch
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Happy Tuesday all, 3 more days til ridin' :). I just picked up a 17' Husky FE 501 and was anticipating having the option to switch my maps and turn traction control on and off. Yet, there is no switch mounted on the bike and I was so damn excited at the dealer that I looked it over. The pamphlet that came with the bike says that all enduro models are equipped with the switch. Haven't called the dealer yet, but wondering if you guys know anything about this. Kind of feels like false advertising by Husky and KTM, aka I'm not receiving the bike that I paid for.
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Hello, Recently my '07 525 EXC was stolen, thankfully the Alameda police found it. Unfortunately the bike wasn't the same when she returned. It had a screwdriver ignition in place of the stock key switch. Do any of you have the pinout of the oem switch plug and switch? I bought a replacement switch from ebay and it didn't have a matching plug. I am trying to wire in the new switch, but I am unsure the wiring combo. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Wires-Universal-Ignition-Switch-Key-for-Honda-Yamaha-Kawasaki-Suzuki-KTM-/331584958637 From what I can tell, the switch works as: Switch Off Wire A + B = On Wire C + D = Off Switch On Wire A + B = Off Wire C + D = On Joe
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Hi! I unfortunately broke my turn signal switch today and can't seem to find any available other than bike bandit. It's part of the left switch cluser on the handlebars. The part number for the switch cluster is 800099721 Bike bandit is the only vendor that has it and it is retailing at 125 dollars! Anybody know where I could get a used one or another for cheap? Thank you for the help! -
Anyone have any experience adding a switch to the speedometer backlight, or power in? Anyone know of side effects to killing power to it all together briefly for stealth mode? I’m looking to add separate headlight and tail light switches as i had once done to an 08 230L. This seems to be the difficult / unfamiliar part. Thank for any info! -
XR400 e-start wiring harness upgrade- anyone using a 400EX Wiring harness but modified with XR650L or other control switches or have other electrical system upgrade th at will allow incorporation of turn signals and brake lights? -
Installed a combined start/kill switch from an R6 to my 2015 Wr450f today. Makes the bars look much cleaner in my opinion. I didn't wire it the conventional way, which had 2 problems. The conventional way has the R6 kill switch attached to the Wr's kill switch wires. This makes the flip switch on the bars reversed. So on is off and off is on. Also, you still would need to press the ignition switch by the dashboard to start the bike, which I didn't like. Here's how I did it: So, I attached the R6 kill switch (both pink wires) to the red and brown wire coming out of the original ignition button on the Wr. Leaving the other yellow and brown wire attached will preserve your low fuel light. Next, cut off the Wr's original starter button, and attach the 2 black wires to the R6 starter switch (black and blue wires). Now it's done. Flipping the switch to the run position will prime the fuel pump, and pressing the start button will start it up as normal. It overall looks cleaner and puts all of the buttons in one place. Here's a quick demonstration.
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So I'm just wondering how I would wire up a High/Low beam switch onto the Wr without using the whole tusk lighting kit. Any help would be appreciated.
