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  1. Recently got my dirtbike back after being stolen. What is the best clutch lever, throttle housing and grips on the market? Want a buttery smooth clutch.
  2. I just bought a 2002 drz400s with 10,000 miles on it. When I picked it up I only took a quick spin around a parking lot , not enough to notice any of the things I notice now. It had been sitting a while before I bought it (I bought it from a shop) so before the owner would sell it to me he took the carb all apart and cleaned it out. When I got it home, I put some new fuel in it and fired it up, it seemed like the idle adjustment was quite high. I backed that down a bit and it seemed to run ok for a little while. (bike hasn't even been running 30 minutes total since I bought it last week) now I notice the beginning throttle delivery seems very jerky and it seems like the bike is struggling early on and then gets better higher in the RPMs. I mistakenly left the petcock on prime the night I brought it home and had to change my oil today because I could smell gas had gotten into it(first time drz owner...lesson learned.) So I put mobile 1 20w-50 in it and a new filter and started it up to take it for a spin. It starts ok (not great), idles high on half and full choke as expected and then when off choke it has a kinda rough idle and if I blip the throttle half of the time it will just shut off. I don't want to turn this into an oil thread but is it possible 20w-50 is too heavy for the 50 degree temps outside? I know there is a vast amount of drz knowledge on this site so what do you guys think about whats going on? It has a stock exhaust, no 3x3 and as far as I know stock jetting, filter looks good (I am going to pull it and clean it anyway) and I'm about 500ft above sea level. Hopefully this info will help the drz gurus make some suggestions. Like I said this is my first drz so maybe the kinda instant jerk followed by seemingly lagging power delivery is normal for these, but coming off of any other bike I have ever ridden it seems a little strange to me.
  3. Hi guys, Had an interesting experience on the way to work this morning. My morning commute consists of mostly highway. I was driving in 5th gear at ~75-80 (15/41 gearing) and I got a quick choke on the engine, as if I was outta gas. Nothing huge, just a slowdown for a second. Now I'm still on the highway and everything seems fine afterwards but about two minutes later, I'm starting to see a bit of traffic ahead. Naturally I let off the throttle a little, but the RPMs stay very high, despite the throttle closing. Downshift and now the RPMs are even higher (as if I was on the throttle). At this point I pulled in the clutch, let totally off the throttle. The clutch works fine as all power was taken off the drive, but those RPMs didn't go anywhere. I've had a stuck throttle cable before and this does not seem to be the problem (from a quick glance). The throttle returns to its closed position no problem, but the engine is still revving at quite high RPMs no matter what. Relatively new (<6mo old Motion Pro) throttle cable that was properly lubed. Luckily I was able to get to work just fine, but upon turning everything off and restarting, same problem. Throttle seems to be stuck open and I have no idea what direction to go in. When the bike is off and I pull the throttle then release, I'm pretty sure I can hear the click of it closing completely, so I'm dumbfounded on this one. Apologies in advance because I'm at work and only have absolute basic tools on me, and can't get to the carb right now (also time restricted). FWIW, I can rev the bike higher than where it is stuck, but it will not go below a certain point. Like I said, throttle cable seems to return just fine, but it is definitely stuck open (maybe just the port on the throttle or something? maybe one of the springs? maybe jetting needle is fooked?) Thanks in advance, looks like I'm out of action for at least the next couple days
  4. So im not very experienced with bikes and ive started to notice a click. You can hear a clicking noise as soon as you give it throttle, only when you start to throttle never anytime else. Any help would be much appreciated.
  5. Trying to figure out where my carb issue lies. '05 250x, new to me. have cleaned tank and carb. fixed stuck hot start and has been running really well. good start, idle and solid through most of the throttle range. have a spot at sustained throttle, about 35 mph uphill on the road in 3rd or 4th. On trail as well. about 1/4 -1/3 throttle. Engine sputters. It picks up great if I get on the throttle or back off. My gut says I have a jetting issue. Bike has stock exhaust, top of air box is removed, screen removed from air filter. Jets aren't marked so I don't know if they are stock or the usual recommended upgrades I have been reading on all the carb posts. live/ride at about 6000'. Thanks in advance.
  6. Hey! so the throttle on my xr100 is sticking. like won't return. i was replacing back wheel bearings and had the bike up on a stand with the wheel off. i was trying to get the master link off the chain in accidentally hit the swingarm, pushing the bike off the stand and it fell on its left side on the garage floor. There was no visible damage suprisingly and nothing was damaged except the throttle. when the bars hit the ground it jammed the throttle tube into the entire mechanism. i know the issue is not with the carb because it will not spring back even in the free play. i took it apart and lubed the assembly and that helped a bit for only for a tiny bit. i was thinking just place the whole thing but thats like $30. any suggestions on where to get a new throttle tube for real cheap? or some other fix? Thanks!
  7. I just rebuilt the carb on my 2006 Honda CRF250R and I'm having issues with idling. I used a full rebuild kit and replaced every jet and gasket/seal. I fired it up for the first time and it idled a little low but steady with the choke out. I bogged it out when trying to give it gas and then it hasn't idled since. I have to constantly be twisting the throttle and it only runs when the accelerator pump is injecting the fuel but it dies if I hold the throttle open. Any advice?
  8. I have a 2018 fe 501. I just installed a JD Tuner on it. I noticed now that when I am idling with the clutch in, if I blip the throttle quickly the bike will quickly die. It seems to run good otherwise. It’s just blipping the throttle at idle. I turned all the settings to “stock” (all 3 across the board) and it still does it, although it is harder to make do it then it did on the “off-road” settings. What gives? Any ideas?
  9. Hey! I have a Honda crf250r 2004 the bike runs smoothly but the only problem I have that if I try to start it it usually takes me around 10 kicks maybe more to get it running. When its warm it kicks first try. When its cold I turn the gas on, the choke, twist the throttle maybe 2-4 times am I doing something wrong? or is something wrong with my bike?
  10. Like I said I have a 2008 KTM 450 exc. I live in Southern California along the coast in Dana Point. Riding is almost entirely all desert. So far average altitude is maybe 1-3k pretty much sea level to about 5000 ft is where I normally take it. Whenever I blip the throttle when stationary the bike dies. I’m trying to put some money into the bike to release some more power. I’ve gotten lots of recommendations: jd jetting, new exhaust system, gearing, suspension etc. so I want to get this throttle problem fixed with the right parts. Anybody care to point me in the right direction if jetting or jetting/exhaust is the problem for me ?
  11. Today I decided to clean the carburator of my crf250r 2005. It was my second time doing it. When I opened up the top of the carburator to remove the slide, I didn't remove the throttle shaft screw and I still slid the slide out, but the control arm is now stuck. This video explain what I should have done at about 1:00. The only difference is I didn't remove the throttle shaft screw and now the control arm is sutck up and I can't slide it back down with the slide. I was still able to remove the slide. Anyone knows how to fix this? I can't acces the throttle shaft screw anymore since the control arm is stuck up.
  12. Hey folks. First of all, I'm loving this site so far; having a great time collecting DRZ info and already ordered some stuff from the TT Store. So I did lots of searching in advance but I didn't find a whole lot of pics on the subject. Short story: I'm putting Renthal CR Highs on my DRZ so I decided to just re-route the throttle cables in advance. Many folks have said to route them on the right side of the frame so this is what I'm trying right now. I'm just not sure I like that the cables are almost touching the engine bolts and I'm also not sure about routing farther up towards the front of the frame. I snapped some pics of my current routing from carb to bars and am just curious if anyone can see anything problematic? In the second pic, I would be replacing the zip tie, tying the throttle and clutch cables together. Any better options that others have done? Thanks in advance!
  13. Hi there, this is my first bike and I'm having a blast learning about it. Took a spill this weekend and one of the wires going into the clutch housing was severed. Not sure what it does or what I need to order to replace it. I'm able to get the bike started with the electric starter (as long as I'm in neutral) and it seems to run fine, so I'm not sure what the impact is yet. Any ideas? I'm a DIY-er with my Wrangler - this is a new world though, so if I need to take it to the shop, I will. Just curious if its something I can easily fix. Thanks in advance!
  14. Hi, I jetted my bike today and decided to open up the cable area to lube it up. Not sure when exactly it happened but after I opened it up, sprayed some cleaner in there, then lubed it up the cable started sticking. The only other thing I did was put on the lock nut for the cable on the left side in this photo (it was completely off). Now the throttle just sticks open wherever I turn it too. It seems like it is not being pulled back into position not really like it is dirty and sticking because of dirt. It looks clean where I can see, it has been lubed everywhere, and I had no throttle issue before now. Any ideas? kx250f thanks!
  15. Hey everybody, first post after years of lurking. Saturday I traded my johnboat for another bike. A very rough 2006 ttr125 with a 150 big bore kit. (no idea who made the kit). She starts first kick no matter what, idles and runs great until about 7/8 to full throttle where it proceeds to fall on its face until I let up. Bike has an "aftermarket" carb that i'm having trouble identifying. The only marking on it is an "M" cast on the side of the body. the insides look brand new but the jets dont have sizes on them. I can post pics as soon as I get off work but without knowing what size jets I have i'm not sure what kit to purchase. Starting to think a new mikuni would be the best course of action. Any Ideas or discussion would be great. Thanks a ton in advance. -Ricky
  16. 2015 CRF 450R. 70~ hours did a top end and now it wont idle. After installing the top end and riding bike it wont idle once hot. I can set the idle cold to about where i want it but once i give it gas and its warm it either idles at 3k rpm or dies. WHen i say dies as soon as the throttle is not open the bike goes->0. Even when its cold and you give it throttle it almost hangs at 3k then settles to 2k but once fully warmed it dies. I have cleaned everything in addition to the steps below. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as im without a bike and losing hair over this. It seems electrical as i didnt notice that much of a power loss I have tried: remapped it all sorts of different ways, swapped throttle body from buddys bike that runs(TPS, injector, idle sensor, idle adjuster), checked all sensor and cleaned them, put buddys fuel tank on ( filter, pump etc), gas is not old, checked timing chain alignment( although the factory lines on the cam shaft are not perfect i believe with 98% certainty the cam is aligned properly) , air filters clean, no tlow on anti freeze, IAC sensor changed, sorry if this is in the wrong section, just trying to get some help
  17. I've been riding and racing my 2006 Honda CRF450R for a few years, got really used to it and plan to keep it, but my wife got me a 2015 Husky 450 for my birthday. I love the monstrous power, had the suspension all done so it handles nice, but at the track its a handful to control because of the sensitive throttle. More than once I've put it away after morning practice and brought out the trusty honda, because I'm just plain faster on a bike thats not trying to get away from me every time it hits a bump. I can hold the honda throttle steady through pretty much anything, the husky is just the opposite. I notice that the husky throttle has a lot lighter 'twist', and wondering if its possible to just put a little heavier throttle return spring on the husky.
  18. Hey all, so my bike is dying when i give it anything over 1/2 throttle. It is completely stock and I have pulled the carb and cleaned the 3 jets. Not very experienced with bikes so any help would be much appreciated. It was running rough when i pulled the carb now it idles perfect but bogs down under throttle. I have changed the plug and have tried running with no air filter. I also took the carb off again to make sure float wasn't stuck. Here is a clip of the bike https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6FW4yt2Oja3Wks5NDNGNXBiUjA
  19. I have a 2018 Fe 501 with only about 60 Miles on it. I noticed today that at idle, if I blip the throttle quickly and then let off the engine will either bog down or die completely. I thought it may be related to the JD tuner I had just installed last night, but I unplugged the tuner and it is still doing it. Has anyone else had this issue? Please help!
  20. Maybe someone can help me out. My 19’ KX250 is bogging real bad to the point it will cut off when I’m riding anywhere from 1/2 throttle to wide open. Starts up fine and idles no problem. I just had the valves adjusted and are within spec, I checked the stator with a multimeter and checks out good, tps is good, ignition coil is good, new spark plug with proper gap, did the 9V battery trick to clean the injectors and just put a new fuel pump and filter in the tank. Also fresh clean gas from when I did the pump, plus a fresh clean air filter. Can’t figure out why it keeps dying out. It’s gotta be fuel/air related because when I pulled the plug out it’s extremely lean... any ideas guys?? Thanks.
  21. I just bought a 2017 KTM SX-F Factory Edition. In a little plastic bag that came with the bike there is a round plastic piece that is a throttle attachment. It either makes the bike snappier or smoother. I prefer snappy and don't care much about smooth.. Does anyone know if I should replace the one on the bike with the one in the bag?
  22. Hi everyone, Really hoping for some advice on how other people have their 625 set up, and their experience with both the R&D Power Bowl 2 (or alternatives, though I feel the Boyensen Quickshots don't get the same reviews - and I'm not spending my money on gimmicks.) My specs - KTM 625 SMC 2007, 16,800 MILES. Titanium Akrapovic - twin slip on Stock header KTM airbox mod - steel cover with gauze 16-38 gearing (P/o had it 17-38) 188# main jet. This is it as far as I'm aware. So - it's a quick bike don't get me wrong, and I love the noise it makes, the torque and generally the character of the bike. But the 'light front wheel' everyone describes in 1,2,3 gears, I only experience in 1st. Short back story - I bought the bike and due to UK licence restrictions I had to put a carb disk into the inlet to restrict the power (by air flow). This meant the bike ran so damn rich it would bog at any more than 1/5 throttle. This didn't last long, I passed my test and took it out. My friend adjusted the fuel screw to make it a little leaner when the disk was in, and readjusted it when the disk came out, with the words 'its probably really rich how I've left it, but it's better than lean'. So I know my fuel economy isn't great, and the bike has good power, but this 188# main jet that's fitted sounds too rich. Most guys are saying between 170-182 and I'm planning to get it dynod and set up - I want it spot on. But I'm here to complain about the throttle response - the sharp wrench of the throttle seems to not have much power. I don't race this bike, and I don't take it to the track even, but I do want to get the best out of the carb. Second gear wheelies don't happen for me, let alone third. I don't really want to be trying to pull wheelies using techniques like clutch up, but the power wheelies you get, Only thing is - I just found out from the P/o that the bike hasn't had it's valve clearances checked since around 2500 of its 16,800 miles. I'm also concerned the spark plug is really due a change especially after all the rich running. So I need advice on the three solutions here - Servicing, analysis and re-jetting, and mods. I plan to take it for a proper service. I plan to get the carb cleaned and re-jetted (after dyno analysis), and I had been looking at the R&D powerbowl. However this is £180 ($250) and equals nearly the full cost of servicing and carb work. I hear some amazing reviews: 'tranforms the bike', 'how do people own bikes with FCR carbs and not own this' , 'how do people ride without this', and then I hear 'why do people turn to over-priced bolt on parts rather than a proper re-jet', and 'why do people refuse to rejet their bikes correctly, and use gimmicks instead'. But I'd rather not spend that money, as for example it equals a new set of tires down the road in summer when I've worn the current ones down. I've also got my eye on some tech7's, my current boots are &%$#@!ed. So what's the verdict? Will the carb rejet solve the issues, or only partially? If so, is there a cheaper alternative to the R&D Powerbowl that definitely does work? When I take it to the performance shop and run it on the dyno, will the mechanic need a JD jet kit to fully tune the carb? Or will a selection of jets suffice? And which ones? I appreciate any advice, I just want to get the bike running how it should, without throwing money at it. It just feels like it should accelerate with more urgency... After all that's why I have a supermoto!
  23. So, I bought this bike a month ago. It ran in the guys garage but I never rode it, just paid the man and loaded it up and brougth it home. So it runs, but is very hard to start...won't idle, backfires, spits, I have to keep working the throttle to keep it running. The first time I started it the throttle cable/throttle tube, etc...wouldn't even return so I parked it for some clean and lube...I wasn't wearing a helmet...it was 11:00 at night, snowing, I'd never ridded a BRP before...didn't want to have to pry myself off a parked car down the street so anyway here I am today. I've had time now to clean and oil the air filter, new spark plug, drained the tank, and carburator bowl, fresh fuel, new throttle tube, lubed cables, new grips, (new AVS levers), and so I'm back to where I started...Yesterday, with a ton of effort, I finally fired it back up. I almost quit trying to kick it; but I'd then try one more time. I finally tried a shot of starting fluid, but only caused a fire in the airbox but it quickly was put out...I had the Uni Filter (freshly cleaned) out with the choke on half; and it finally came to life. I had to keep working the throtte...I quickly flipped the choke wide open and it ran better and I thought it was going to run fine...I put it in gear and ran it down the street...hoping it would just run fine...One Block, Two Blocks, Three Blocks...turn around...same thing on return...I wheelied a bit in second gear...I know I was smiling...anticipating a nicley running bike that I now could continue to dump tons of money into. But then I got back to the house and I was still pumping the throttle, and then I thought well lets see how she idles...and flatline...................... I'm thinking rebuild the carb...AGAIN...the one reciept the guy gave me was fron his local power sport store for a carb rebuild and tune for $408...labor/parts etc...I am assuming it ran good then...??? What'd ya'll do?
  24. Hey ThumperTalk. Ive been wondering what it takes to mount a thumb throttle on a dirtbike. Specifically a 2009 ktm 300. I know it can be done. Ive read a lot about people doing it. My question is, if anyone has info on it or has done it, what throttle fits the best and how do you install it? I don't think it would be hard, I just want an opinion and to know if there is any problems I could run across. Thanks for any help
  25. Hello everyone! I recently bought my first "big boi" bike which is a RMZ250 2004. It has a pro circuit ti4 exhaust on it. Before that Ive ridden and worked on pit bikes. FYI I am a high school. So when I got this bike there was no compression so like anyone would do I checked the valve clearance it was pretty off and I fixed it and now it has a lot of compression. I started it with starter fluid and then turned on the gas and it started idling. It was kinda stuttering so I used a carb clean to clean all of the jets and used compressed air to blow out passages. Now when I twist the throttle it has good response and comes right back on idle but when riding when I go 50% throttle it just bogs. I checked the vacuum plate and its ok, I rechecked the timing and everything. It runs good on choke but on choke the idle is bad. I am pretty sure its not a case of false air. I have a 175 main jet, 42 pilot jet and 4 clips on obeks needle and 2 turns out on fuel mix screw. any ideas appreciated!
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