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Found 41 results

  1. Hey all, I've been having problems with my throttle position sensor on my Yamaha WR450F 2005. When the sensor is plugged in the bike runs very lumpy on constant throttle and is nearly un-ride-able. In the manual, and all over the internet, there are values of which the TPS must be set at and what resistance it should have. These are : 4-6 ohms resistance 0.58 - 0.78 volts My TPS is set perfectly within these values, being 4.9ohms and 0.72 volts. This indicates to me that my TPS is fine and there is no point buying another? But as soon as i unplug the sensor it does run NEARLY perfect, still very very slightly lumpy but hardly noticeable. Has anyone else had correct readings on their TPS but still isn't working? any help? I don't want to spend £300 on a sensor then it not actually be the problem? Thanks
  2. Hi Guys, New to the forum (I am one of the audio guys on a famous Harley forum - same forum name) I am at a loss at this point in time... I am pretty savvy from a mechanical perspective, did my research, etc etc. Need bike (2005 WR250F - Keihin CRF carb) running smooth for trip july 10th with bro. So the basics: - based in Las Vegas (~2500ft above sea level) - carb is CLEAN, spark plug at .6mm, clean new air filter - float set to 8-9 mm - starts up without an issue - got manual adjustable A/F needle - set to 2 -2.5 turns out (@ 2.5 seems to run a tad better) - jetting: Pilot #42, Main #175, leak jet #95! (high compared to stock according documentation) - Needle I cannot find a code on it - EDIT: needle clip in the middle on position 4. Symptoms: + stationary - starts and runs fine + upping throttle to 1/3 RPMs increase "smoothly" + full throttle: hits the RPM limiter so IMO no issue - Quick WOT > bogs (I believe that is what you call it) and dies (I can live with that, but not the next one) - I fiddled with the accelerator Pump timing at tad, keeping track of the original setting; did not seem to get rid of the WOT issue. - 1/3 - 3/4 throttle : it ?surges?... I mean RPMs go up and down in like 2-3 times per second (this is all not loaded so in the garage; When riding bike has the same behavior) when reading articles on the web and youtube's, it "points" to the main needle, right? or perhaps the leak jet is way too big...? I appreciate your help/comments/suggestions... If need be I can shoot a video...
  3. I have a 2018 500 Exc-f with only about 60 Miles on it. I noticed today that at idle, if I blip the throttle quickly and then let off the engine will either bog down or die completely. I thought it may be related to the JD tuner I had just installed last night, but I unplugged the tuner and it is still doing it. Has anyone else had this issue? Please help! Only other mods done are the bike is desmogged. I didn’t notice this until after I had removed the tank in order to install the JD tuner last night. Could this be related?
  4. I posted this last Oct... My son races an 02 cr250, mostly stock, fmf pipe, recently added a shorty silencer. 15 hours on rebuild...has always been a little slow to come back to idle but seems to have gotten worse. When riding hard it takes 3 - 5 seconds to come down to idle. I don't know what it could be! Jetting, reeds, air leaks...?? The response I got was to change the left side crank seal. It made a little bit of difference but didn't completely solve the problem. Over the winter it seemed to be less of an issue and into the spring racing. We did a fresh top end this summer and had the normal slow to come back to idle I expect for the cr250. It was running great and very strong. We have 8 hours now on the top end and the problem is back in a huge way. Almost un-rideable two weeks ago at Muddy Creek MX. When he clutches in the corners I can hear it at a high rev. My thoughts and questions... 1. If it's the left seal leaking air it would cause a lean mixture right? I pull the plug and it's dark. Wouldn't the leaking lean situation cause a lighter plug? I see a lot of threads pointing to air leaks and leak down tests, but no one tells what the plug looks like. 2. If it's the right side seal wouldn't it leak oil into the case and smoke? This would not cause a sustained rev would it? 3. Reading the plug dark, I moved the needle down thinking I have a rich mixture and it could be loading up on fuel. No change! Should I go farther or smaller main jet? The plug is dark but not dark enough that I think it's a mixture problem...and it runs smooth and no missing. 4. Someone said warm it up and spray starter fluid around the engine to see if I can find an air leak. But again wouldn't it cause a lean plug? 5. Throttle cable is new and very crisp...always has been through the good and bad times. Frustrated and ready to tare it down if needed but I don't know what to look for or what to replace. I'm looking for some been there done that wisdom. I've noticed a lot of threads state the problem, list suggestions, but never state what the solution was. My name is racer dad, and that's what I am. I'm not a pro engine builder but we do race 3 bikes and I have done about 6 or 7 engines now and this is the only problem I've not been able to solve. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  5. Hey TT members, Recently I pulled the trigger on a new stock '17SM as a first bike after hearing some of the fantastic reviews it gets here and elsewhere and rode it home stoked as can be this last friday. Stopped off 5 mins away home in a quiet street and got a feel for the thing, some take-offs, shifting, braking etc. was taking it easy but having a blast just with that. During this process I noticed that often when rolling on or off the throttle (to/from idle/freeplay) there can be a bit of a lurch particularly at lower speeds/rpm (coming around a corner etc.). From a bit of trawling around the forums it seems like that this may be 'lugging' the throttle? I guess I was expecting the idle/engaged transition to be a little less jumpy, I guess feathering the clutch at those speeds is required. Anyway I figure way I'll come back to a quiet spot for the next few weeks and build confidence, and particularly master the clutch before I spend too much time on the commute or in heavy traffic. Fast forward to the next morning. Get up early to avoid traffic and head off to do some more practice. Still noticing the lurch on and off, but trying to be smooth with shifts and matching the downshifts in particular. Lo and behold, I come to a set of lights, and begin to shift down (second to first?) - note, it gets a little hazy here - and quick as you know it, the bike is flapping from side to side, I'm gripping the bars wondering what is happening, and then I'm on my arse sliding down the street at 30kph having looped it out from under me. After going over it in my mind, I'm assuming I must have dropped the clutch during the shift and the sudden acceleration sent me back in the seat due to bad body position not gripping tank hard enough with legs, I instinctively grab the bars harder = more throttle, rest is history. Safe to say it scared the shit out of me and my confidence (and hip/neck) are a little battered. Thankfully helmet and gear did the job except for the jacket riding up during the slide and I'm counting my lucky stars that there wasn't anyone behind me or coming the other way. Bike seems fine, a little scratched is all. So for the questions. Obviously the above was pretty much completely rider error, and when the body and mind are ready to get back on I want to put the time into improving my skills (the irony of this happening on the way to do so is not lost on me!) I feel very humbled by the experience, and have a good sense of how far I have to go. In that vein, can anybody recommend any videos/instructionals/etc. for the drz or motard style bikes regarding braking, handling, clutch and body positioning? I feel like there's not a huge amount of cross-over from regular street bikes due to the ergonomics and height etc or am I off the mark there? also at the pre-learner course we were warned off using anything less than 4 fingers to brake with, but between the lurch in rolling off the throttle (even just to set up the brakes) and the braking it feels unsteady. Think I will adjust the levers down a bit to make this easier though. All that being said I'm still wondering about the lurch rolling on and off the throttle. Is this just due to the bike being a single cylinder and liking to rev higher? Is there a way to improve the smoothness from free-play into throttle especially at low speeds? It feels like it comes on and off quite strongly into engine braking at the engagement point. Does this change as the bike breaks in? I noticed that the manual recommends using the clutch below 15kph, though even below around 20 (from the unfortunately VERY limited time i spent on it) the engine was feeling a little unhappy. Just wanted to confirm that this is to be expected Sorry for the essay and appreciating the time taken.. Think I just needed to get it out my head a bit. Cheers, Rotts.
  6. Hi everyone, I've also posted this in the jetting pages... Not sure if it's standard practice to repost in a couple of relevant sections. If not let me know and I'll remove a post. Really hoping for some advice on how other people have their 625 set up, and their experience with both the R&D Power Bowl 2 (or alternatives, though I feel the Boyensen Quickshots don't get the same reviews - and I'm not spending my money on gimmicks.) My specs - KTM 625 SMC 2007, 16,800 MILES. Titanium Akrapovic - twin slip on Stock header KTM airbox mod - steel cover with gauze 16-38 gearing (P/o had it 17-38) 188# main jet. This is it as far as I'm aware. So - it's a quick bike don't get me wrong, and I love the noise it makes, the torque and generally the character of the bike. But the 'light front wheel' everyone describes in 1,2,3 gears, I only experience in 1st. Short back story - I bought the bike and due to UK licence restrictions I had to put a carb disk into the inlet to restrict the power (by air flow). This meant the bike ran so damn rich it would bog at any more than 1/5 throttle. This didn't last long, I passed my test and took it out. My friend adjusted the fuel screw to make it a little leaner when the disk was in, and readjusted it when the disk came out, with the words 'its probably really rich how I've left it, but it's better than lean'. So I know my fuel economy isn't great, and the bike has good power, but this 188# main jet that's fitted sounds too rich. Most guys are saying between 170-182 and I'm planning to get it dynod and set up - I want it spot on. But I'm here to complain about the throttle response - the sharp wrench of the throttle seems to not have much power. I don't race this bike, and I don't take it to the track even, but I do want to get the best out of the carb. Second gear wheelies don't happen for me, let alone third. I don't really want to be trying to pull wheelies using techniques like clutch up, but the power wheelies you get, Only thing is - I just found out from the P/o that the bike hasn't had it's valve clearances checked since around 2500 of its 16,800 miles. I'm also concerned the spark plug is really due a change especially after all the rich running. So I need advice on the three solutions here - Servicing, analysis and re-jetting, and mods. I plan to take it for a proper service. I plan to get the carb cleaned and re-jetted (after dyno analysis), and I had been looking at the R&D powerbowl. However this is £180 ($250) and equals nearly the full cost of servicing and carb work. I hear some amazing reviews: 'tranforms the bike', 'how do people own bikes with FCR carbs and not own this' , 'how do people ride without this', and then I hear 'why do people turn to over-priced bolt on parts rather than a proper re-jet', and 'why do people refuse to rejet their bikes correctly, and use gimmicks instead'. But I'd rather not spend that money, as for example it equals a new set of tires down the road in summer when I've worn the current ones down. I've also got my eye on some tech7's, my current boots are &%$#@!ed. So what's the verdict? Will the carb rejet solve the issues, or only partially? If so, is there a cheaper alternative to the R&D Powerbowl that definitely does work? When I take it to the performance shop and run it on the dyno, will the mechanic need a JD jet kit to fully tune the carb? Or will a selection of jets suffice? And which ones? I appreciate any advice, I just want to get the bike running how it should, without throwing money at it. It just feels like it should accelerate with more urgency... After all that's why I have a supermoto!
  7. I have a 2006 WR450F that has many mods already done before I purchased however I have an issue which I am trying to determine if it is the "bog" issue. I am running a Rekluse Z-Start Pro, rolling down a single track usually in third gear and approach an obstacle. I throttle on sharply to raise the front end and the engine dies. Can also happen from time to time in first and second gear, but usually always from an idling roll. Is this the "bog"? Just trying to determine if that is the direction I should start my troubleshooting with.
  8. Just bought a new 2017 yz250fx, has about 2 hours on it and ive already done an oil change, and overall made sure everything is in good condition. I rode for about an hour last Saturday around a farm and than stopped to turn off the bike, about 20 minutes later I came back and started it up and now every time I rev it/ blip the throttle the bike just shuts off. Than about 6 days later tried again, Now it wont even run without choke, I warm the bike up on choke and as soon as I shut it off bike turns off Not only do I want to fix this so i can ride my NEW bike, I am very pissed because its brand new and ive done nothing wrong to it. Any help is much appreciated
  9. Honeydoman

    2002 jr 50 Help Needed!

    Hi everyone new to this forum as well as being new to working on 2 stroke dirtbikes. I recently purchased a 2002 JR 50 for my son for Christmas, I have been tinkering with it to get it running good before christmas morning and now I'm in a time crunch with some much needed info. I have replaced the carb because the original was giving me fits and bike was constantly flooding, after new carb it fires and runs. I hooked the lines back up how they were when i recieved it but just found out it was incorrect. I had a line that I assume was the overflow line to the crank breather! Which being a diesel tech i know is no bueno. But the old carb only had one small line that was orginally hooked up there now the new carb has 2 small lines coming off? Im sure 1 is the overflow but I'm not sure what the other one is for I can post pics for reference anything would help. Thanks
  10. So, I have cleaned, and the re-built my carbs... and still have this issue. Any insight as to what else might be the culprit is appreciated! The bike starts right up, and runs great!, until I throttle back really fast, then it tries to die. I can take the throttle up slower and it goes through just fine. It's just the hard quick throttle back that you need to lift the front end up that seems to be the issue. 2007 450 EXC Thanks in advance!
  11. 2016 CRF450R- 70 hours did a top end and after putting it back together it doesnt idle. As i try to adjust the idle when warmed up it either dies or idles at 3.3k. I made sure the timing chain was correct, checked all connections, bike is clean, swapped out TPS, IAC, swapped tank( with fuel pump), Remapped and nothing. thanks
  12. Hi all, just recently cleaned my carb for the first time because my bike was running really rough. I noticed the pilot jet was slightly clogged so i cleaned it and the other two jets. (so i think) Put it back together and now it is idling like new. However, anything over about half throttle and the bike starts to bog down and if you dont let off throttle it dies. Let off and it goes back to idling fine. Did i do a crappy job cleaning the jets or could it be something else in the carb that i didnt clean. (i only cleaned the jets while i had it off) Could it be the slide?
  13. areichert19

    2002 yz250f jerky throttle

    I just bought a 2002 yz250f and I’ve been working out some of the bugs in it. I’ve adjusted all the slack out of the throttle in both directions in various different positions and the throttle is really jerky in first gear just cruising slow. I plan to trail ride this bike so this condition is not ideal. Anyone have an idea on how to make it less jerky?
  14. I've noticed that my throttle on my 16' YZ450FX takes a lot more to twist verses my prior KTM or some of my other buddies bikes. When I was at the National last year, Corey McDonald felt it was fairly tight too. He suggested I clean it and see if that helps. I did and it's still tight. Not ridiculously tight, but enough to cause fatigue during a hare scramble (I know... I know, I sound like a wuss! haha). Almost like the return spring is too tight. Is there a fix for this? Anyone else have this issue?
  15. Hey guys. First time posting but always use the great nfo on the this page. I crashed my drz about 2 years ago and I didn't notice any physical damage except a bent handlebar and some scratches. Didn't ride it again as I moved countries for 2 years. Just got back and wanted to get it started again. Did an oil change, changed handle bars, changed the battery, got most of the old fuel out (I think) and refueled it. Started it up no problem with the choke and it sounded fine. However it would stall if i took the choke off or tried to use the throttle. So i let it warm up for a bit. Come back to the bike and it's shooting out coolant and steam from the bottom hose of the bike. Changed the coolant thinking it may be old coolant. Now I'm scared to let it run for a while to see if it will overheat again. Still the same problem with the choke and throttle. Anyone have an idea of the problem? Cheers
  16. Josh Johnson


    So I just got done rebuilding my 2000 rm 250 bottom and top end. Its bored over 2.10mm to be a 265 (I believe). It has a Pro circuit header, FMF shorty silencer, and vforce 1 reeds. Its just barely broken in maybe an hour or two on it so far. It keeps fouling plugs and sounds a little rich. Its running a 160 Main (2 up from stock) and 48 Pilot (1 up from stock) with the needle clip on the stock setting. Should I change my needle clip position? Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated!
  17. Whaddup boys and girls, New around here, as well as very new to the dirt biking (riding in general) scene. I recently moved out of the city and more, country livin' so I got a dirt bike. I got a '04 YZ250F and haven't had much problems with it, except as I've been getting more and more comfortable on the throttle, and practicing my wheelies and such, I noticed... Low RPMs (Just above standstill, probably below like 10-20km/h) When i crack the throttle, it bogs if I'm going very slow/at a stand still. I have to release the throttle and twist the throttle more slowly (up to about 20km/h) then I can crack her wide open no problem. My question is, because I bought a racing bike, is it intented to be like this, since they would require a lot less low end power (since they're starting in dirt/mud/sand etc) or is there an issue with my bike. If there is an issue, what would possibly be the fix? Since i've had my bike (About 2-3weeks now) I've done: -oil change, air filter change, oil filter change, installed new sparkplugs and personal stuff such as suspension stiffness, handlebar position. Anything else I should be doing often other than those ^ (above) and is there a fix to my bike issue? or this how it is suppose to be? Thanks in advance homies.
  18. Throttle returns to original position very slowly. If possible reply to ****************@gmail.com.
  19. So I recently acquired a 1994 XR600R. Throttle action is nice and smooth and easy when the engine is not running. But as soon as you start it up the throttle becomes stiff making low speed riding snatchy and quite fatiguing on the wrist. At first I assumed it was the cables or twist grip needing attention but I then noticed that it is only bad when the engine is running. Its as if the vacuum pulled by then engine is is causing the slide to stick in the bore. Never encountered this before and I'm not that familiar with carbs so I thought I'd seek counsel here before I open it up. Any suggestions? Here's a pic of the carb :
  20. Chris Edwards

    Snappy throttle help!

    hey guys hey guys I need a little help. I just bought a 2017 Honda CRF250R I realize I should have got the X Edition but I can't trade up or get a different bike now so I'm left with trying to modify it to hit the trails. my question is I'm having a really hard time controlling the throttle at low revs and in tight technical terain because it's a Motocross Edition so what can I do to help the smooth the throttle so that I don't whiskey throttle it and end up on my back side all day long.. I am also new to riding g so any help please.
  21. dannyrg85

    Clicking when giving throttle

    So im not very experienced with bikes and ive started to notice a click. You can hear a clicking noise as soon as you give it throttle, only when you start to throttle never anytime else. Any help would be much appreciated.
  22. Hey! I have a Honda crf250r 2004 the bike runs smoothly but the only problem I have that if I try to start it it usually takes me around 10 kicks maybe more to get it running. When its warm it kicks first try. When its cold I turn the gas on, the choke, twist the throttle maybe 2-4 times am I doing something wrong? or is something wrong with my bike?
  23. Like I said I have a 2008 KTM 450 exc. I live in Southern California along the coast in Dana Point. Riding is almost entirely all desert. So far average altitude is maybe 1-3k pretty much sea level to about 5000 ft is where I normally take it. Whenever I blip the throttle when stationary the bike dies. I’m trying to put some money into the bike to release some more power. I’ve gotten lots of recommendations: jd jetting, new exhaust system, gearing, suspension etc. so I want to get this throttle problem fixed with the right parts. Anybody care to point me in the right direction if jetting or jetting/exhaust is the problem for me ?
  24. Huskyfe501

    FE 501 JD Tuner Issues

    I have a 2018 fe 501. I just installed a JD Tuner on it. I noticed now that when I am idling with the clutch in, if I blip the throttle quickly the bike will quickly die. It seems to run good otherwise. It’s just blipping the throttle at idle. I turned all the settings to “stock” (all 3 across the board) and it still does it, although it is harder to make do it then it did on the “off-road” settings. What gives? Any ideas?
  25. bhers

    xr100 throttle stuck

    Hey! so the throttle on my xr100 is sticking. like won't return. i was replacing back wheel bearings and had the bike up on a stand with the wheel off. i was trying to get the master link off the chain in accidentally hit the swingarm, pushing the bike off the stand and it fell on its left side on the garage floor. There was no visible damage suprisingly and nothing was damaged except the throttle. when the bars hit the ground it jammed the throttle tube into the entire mechanism. i know the issue is not with the carb because it will not spring back even in the free play. i took it apart and lubed the assembly and that helped a bit for only for a tiny bit. i was thinking just place the whole thing but thats like $30. any suggestions on where to get a new throttle tube for real cheap? or some other fix? Thanks!