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Found 35 results

  1. Kraut91

    2009 yz250f HELP!

    Tore bike down to check valve clearances, bike runs great. When I check with a feelers gauge I can't fit the .10mm gauge in, the biggest I can get is the .04mm and I can't seem to get my timing marks "I" and the marks on the cam sprocket to line up correctly am I doing something wrong pls help. Timing mark on flywheel "I" set at TDC and piston is all the way up. Any help would be appreciated.
  2. Hey everyone, new member here. I recently traded my 2001 Honda 250EX for a 1985 XR200R. The bike is tight all around and looks like it wasn't used much in its life. However, there is a noise coming from the engine that's not from the crank. It's up in the head somewhere. I adjusted the vales and started the bike up, only to hear a slightly quieter noise which led my father and I to believe that it's the Cam chain. If the bike ends up needing one, where can I find an aftermarket chain? I've checked eBay, xrsonly, and the normal part sites and I am not able to find anyone who has a chain in stock. I called my local dealer and they said they could get one for $70, but I just think that I can find it online for cheaper. It doesn't have to be OEM. Thanks
  3. So, I picked up a '03 CRF150F a few weeks back. Found out later that it had been rebuilt but UTI, supposedly. It has a BBR exhaust and has been re-jetted with a BBR jetting kit. Ran good until it started having difficulties starting. Changed the oil and it made it easier to start for about a week. Put in a new Rev Box because that's what it had in it, and that has fixed the hard to start issue. But even more lately, there's been a knocking or clunking sound from the bottom end of the engine. You can only hear this knocking sound though when the engine is returning to idle after revving it in neutral. And it has this knock or clunk whether its cold or warmed up, although it does get louder and more frequent when it's warmed. Don't know what it is and haven't figured that out, but when I was test driving it, I got up to fifth gear and all of a sudden it sounded like a valve or something from the top end broke. It was if the engine lost all compression because you could hear the air just blowing in and out of the cylinder. Pushed the bike forward and I could feel that the engine wasn't seized up, but trying to start it with the kick start wouldn't work. Wasn't able to start the bike so I removed the engine and disassembled the top end expecting to see a broken valve or one that wasn't seating right. However, the cylinder head is black and has quite a bit of carbon buildup, so I don't know if that would cause it. Or maybe a valve is out of adjustment or the timing? The connecting rod seems to be tight enough because when you pull the piston up and push it down, there's no slack, except for side to side, which is normal I believe. Valves? Timing? Carbon buildup? Something in the lower end? Any ideas?
  4. Hi all, so I recently snagged an 02 WR250f off of Craigslist that "blew while riding" and was seized and wouldnt turn over for dirt cheap as a project bike to fix and flip. (story of rebuild at the bottom if interested). I bought new parts, put everything back together and am having trouble setting the timing. Ive been down almost every thread out there in search of an answer and cant find anything conclusive. SO, Ive put the engine at TDC and set the intake and exhaust cam marks at the top of the head, confirmed that there are 13 pins between top timing marks, and that the lobes are indeed pointing away from each other at the 11 and 2 positions. After all that, I can "kick" the bike over by hand, easily. it feels like there is no compression and one of the valve sets is opening too soon, or late. Ive moved both cams forward and backward one tooth each way, experimenting, hoping to find a position that will run. and cant seem to get it to work. At one point, it did start, but would only run at mid to high rpm. but I dont remember what position I had the cams. I've also read about putting a yz cam in the wr, no clue if thats been done or not (how can you tell?). so that might also be throwing me off a little. any help would be awesome! -Evan Rebuild Story: So the head looked to be brand new or rebuilt as it was shiny and new looking and the rest of the motor had a used patina. It turns out the water counter balance gear had taken a dump and taken out the water pump gear in the process and had jammed the engine from turning. So I got a new counter balance gear and water pump gear, threw it all in and noticed the counter balance on the other side of the engine from the gear (next to the timing chain) was rubbing on the timing chain guide. It was making contact, but was still able to rotate all the way around. I am guessing that is what caused the gear to shatter. So, I used a dremel to grind the back side of the guide down just a tad where there was a wear mark and there doesnt seem to be any more contact.
  5. Anyone running a Vortex ignition on a YZ250F 2014-2018, or 450 for that matter? What advantages does it have over tuning FI/IG with the GYTR power tuner, and are there maps readily available for stock or mod and race fuel? I've messed around with the GYTR tuner on one of my bikes- 2017 YZ250F with bolt ons and VP racing fuel, but there is a lack of maps to run and I've heard there is more power to be had with the Vortex Ignition. I'm aware there are other less costly avenues to add horsepower.
  6. Hey there! I'm new to Thumper talk as a member but have read many help topics over the years, time to bite the bullet and get on board! Well To start I'm not new to working on bikes, Ive always done all the basic work on my Yamaha's, 3 to be exact. YZ250F, WR450F and now a WR250F. I'm also an HVAC Tech by trade so the electrical trouble shooting experience helps. I just bought this 2002 WR250F and It only started once and ran for about 30 seconds, sounded good. After that it wouldn't start, it gave a few false burps but nothing. Popped a few times on third kick with out starting but I was guessing it was fuel I dumped in by opening the throttle. I got spark! To my knowledge, what i was told by seller and from what I've seen upon opening it up, it has a 290 big bore kit, new valves- (I checked clearenses, intake in spec .13, exhaust say's .17-.22 I have .23) Not sure if thats a determining factor?? It also has newer cams and a decompression cam. NOTE, I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH 290 BIG BORE KITS, JETTING REQUIERMENTS etc... This may be the entire issue.... I took my carb off my 2002 YZ250F and put it on this bike because I know it works. I wanted to try and get it going since the carburetor that came with the bike was in a thousand pieces when i bought it. (Parts needed and on order, waiting). There is not much difference but...??? So i guess this is where the rest comes in. I went through the entire electrical system and ohm'd out everything accept the CDI box. see pictures. I couldn't find anything in the manual as far as checking ohm's. ?? I would think it would say but I didn't see anything. So here I am, is it just the carburetor? I mean it did run, it started with out the choke on like second kick and ran for 30 sec hand off throttle! I kicked my brains out two separate days checking different things and nothing after that. Please help! HAHAHA! Thanks!!
  7. frontline510

    Need help with Timing

    Hello everyone, I am currently rebuilding my top end on my 2001 Wr250f. Everything has been going smoothly until it came time to set the cam timing. I have set the motor to tdc, and slipped both cams under the timing chain. No matter what I do, I cannot seem to align the camshaft timing marks level with the head of the motor. The exhaust side cam aligns perfectly with the dot sitting flush with the head line. The intake side cam mark always ends below the head line or above. Neither way looks natural. The dot is either too deep to the point I can't see it, or too high to the point it floats above the head line. Which way is correct? Thanks in advance for any input.
  8. Hi all, I took apart my '86 Honda XL600r because the spark plug thread was stripped. Now I am in the process of putting everything back together but I have some questions. Also this is my first time taking apart a 4-stroke. My first question: Is my timing chain worn out? I can just lift it very slightly but it looks pretty tight and cannot move it a teeth when the tensioner is on. However the hole on the tensioner is not pointing up anymore but slightly to the back. My second question: When re-installing the timing chain I put the cylinder on Top Dead Center and tried to put the timing chain on the timing sprocket as precise as possible, however the marking stripes are slightly of when installed, if I move the chain a tooth it will be again too far of. Can I leave it like this? And is this adjusted by setting the valves?
  9. Pierre Legrand

    CRF450x Throttle Response off of Idle

    Using this short video that I have cued up to make a point. Is it possible to get a CRF450x to respond off-idle like this Husky? Just want to make sure that I have a realistic goal for my CRF450x...put in a JD Jetting Kit last week and have a Boyesen Quickshot3 and RD Fuel screw...all of these items have gone a long way towards cleaning up the bike's goofy EPA jetting. Have also gotten rid of backfire screen, pink wire mod, opened up airbox,...but my bike still isn't this clean off of idle. Is this just a feature of the CRF? Or can I reasonably expect to get it running as clean as this Husky? Thank you for any help.
  10. Hi all. I have a 1975 suzuki RV125 that has a magneto, points/condenser and is a 6V system. I need to pull the flywheel and points plate off do replace the crank seal and I am thinking I should just replace the points and condenser since, well, I suspect that are original yet! I have the workshop manual and have attached the relevant pages with respect to setting the timing. I *THINK* I understand how it all works (Have very little experience with points), but I'd like confirmation before I did in. So, here's my understanding: From the manual, it appears that the point plate cannot be rotated to advance/retard the timing, only the point gap. It also appears that when the points are closed, all current flows to ground and no spark. Using a dial gauge, I'll find TDC on the piston. I'll hook a multimeter up to ground and to lead stated in the manual and (here's where I'm guessing because I don't have this "special" tool) and test for continuity. The manual has me rotate the crank backwards (clockwise) until "the sound dies away" (assuming continuity breaks, meaning open points). At this point, the dial gauge should read 2.41mm (22deg before TDC). It's my understanding that if I set the point gap appropriately to spec and have them close/open right at this point, I'll have spark at 22deg before the piston reaches TDC. Seems simple enough, but it seems odd to me - is this setup standard or is this opposite of standard. I could have sworn when setting the timing on a 73 Honda CL 350 that the ignition sparked when the points closed. Also, in this setup, the points open at 22 deg before TDC, but must close at some point after that and remain closed until it rotates around again to get to 22 deg - it just seems odd to me you'd have a wearing/maintenance type of item like points conducting current more often than not. At any rate, maybe I'm all wet and have this all wrong. Thoughts? Thanks, Andy
  11. Ali S.

    2006 RMZ250 timing

    If I'm adjusting the timing on my rmz 250 and the timing is slightly or barely off, will it start? If it will would it get damaged over time or something? I just wanted to know just in case I timed it slightly wrong on accident.
  12. Otto646

    kx250f God Awful Noise KX250F

    I recently purchased a 2010 KX250F from a friend of mine that had been sitting in his garage for about 5 years. The bike seemed to be in decent shape and the price was right so i picked it up. I went through most of the bike before riding it (air filter, oil, greased all the bearings, adjusted suspension, changed all the fluids, etc) The valves sounded a bit loose so i decided to have a "Buddy of mine" adjust the valves. I get the bike back, go for a ride and the cam chain tensioner falls out while i was riding, luckily i caught it very soon after it happened and it never jumped timing. I put the tensioner back in and continue to ride the rest of the day. as the day goes on the valves sound much looser than they were originally before the adjustment was done, I decided to call it a day and tear the bike down myself. I shim the loose valves and button the bike back up, but now the thing sounds god awful. Straight up clacking coming from the right side of the top end. Since then ive probably had the bike apart and back together 4 or 5 times trying to figure out the problem. Its not the auto decompression valve, every valve is in spec, timing is solid, and the cam chain tensioner is working fine. I'm stumped. anyone have any thoughts?
  13. FatCowKiller

    Cam timing and clattering

    I have recently done a lot of maintenance to my WR 450f and there are still some issues which concern me with it, when I took out the clutch basket there was a gear with a bent piece on it (picture attached) This was probably done by the previous owner but I think it should probably be replaced? - When I checked the valves they were only opened for measuring when the knob things were pointed down instead of up, (picture attached) I dont know if the timing is messed up or if it has been retarded to the yz specs. ( the picture of the cam chain was when the valves were open, at the same time as the knob things were downwards in the other picture). -There is also a clattering noise from the engine but it seems to run fine? I will try to make a video for mine soon but it sounds pretty much like this persons - sorry about the bad pictures.
  14. I've been doing research over week now. Bought a 04 crf250r for $900 on terms it needed a cam chain. Come to find out the cam chain tension failed and the chain was shot. However there was a surprise. the left cam lobe closes to the cam wheel (in the head) destroyed the heads housing around the valve. Yes destroyed. Chucks of metal were found and the cap above the valve (under the cam lobe) was also destroyed and chewed up. The bike did run before i opened it decently well but did make noise (2nd 3rd kick). I didn't want to blow it up so i torn it apart. Now i have a new cam chain and tension valve cover gasket and flywheel stator (left side engine gasket) also new head is on its way. PROBLEM- Guys at the motorsports store said valves looked good and jug looked fine along with the piston (valves were still in head and he just glanced at them). QUESTION-Do i reuse the old valves in my new head (probably not) so if i order new valves can i use the old springs with the new valves? Last question, since ill have a new head and (if need be valves,springs,locks,seals) what size shim (referring to the small metal circles under the lifters) do i use since it'll be OEM. Please get back with me asap. Thank you!!
  15. Just finished adjusting the valves on my 2008 crf250r, I kicked once and the motor turned over maybe one rotation and then it locked up. I thought the cam was set correctly but it' possible its off. I also forgot to use the engine locking bolt on the bottom side that locks it at tdc while working on it but I wasn' concerned because I didn' feel like I was turning the engine the chain while working on it. Before the valve adjustment it kicked over fine. What could the issue be?
  16. billy400cc

    cam timing off. 2003 DRZ400s

    How do I fix this mess I've gotten myself into? I was adjusting valves and turned the engine over without the cam chain tensioner in place and ended up with the arrows at 11:30 and not 12:00. The bike is at TDC compression stroke. I am in the 15th pin though.
  17. ADAVEN6

    Need Help (Timing)

    I just replaced the rings in my 07 yz450f and when i put it back together it did not kick start so i pull started it and it ran (kinda) but at high rpms it would bog. i know its not the carb because i had it in another bike and it ran fine. but then i could not start it a second time. it would start for 1 or 2 seconds but not run. so i took it apart and found the timing was off (more then i thought) but one of the cam timing marks was always to high or to low. so i got it as close as i could but now it has a ton of compression, is that good? please help
  18. Hello. Im struggling with this one. 1996 Suzuki DR350se. Ran great until I parked it. I haven't driven it in 2 years. pulled it out and rode to store a couple months ago. when almost home, at a stop sign, it coughed and died. didn't want to start but did for a minute and spit out a huge cloud of black smoke. then wouldn't run again. I tinkered with it a bit and pulled the stator hoping it was a sheared woodruff key. sure enough! replaced the key and put back together. now it starts and idles although not well (better with choke on). as soon as I give it any throttle, it dies. It feels like ignition timing to me. I've gone through the carb and cleaned it 5 times with no change. Ive replaced the spark plug. Ive also tried giving it a light mist of starter fluid while cracking the throttle thinking its a lean issue and no change. Ive also sprayed starter fluid around carb while idling to see if theres a vacuum leak and found none. I dont think its carb related. stock CV carb. Pilot jet is clear. diaphragm looks ok. tried manually lifting main needle while cracking throttle and no help. What else could cause this? Is there a way to check ignition timing with a timing light? Thanks!
  19. freebird65

    TTR-230 timing adjustable?

    It is not clear to me in the shop manual if actual timing adjustments are possible on the TTR-230. Can anyone confirm? I am working from a 2005 shop manual on a 2014 bike. TIA!
  20. Cannot get CRF 450 to even fire under any circumstances. I've read so many posts, tried so many things including: Valve inspection and adjustments: Perfect valve seats and clearances - tested and re-tested Valve Timing: All 3 marks line up (right crankcase gear, Left flywheel (rotor) mark and overhead cam) Proven Piston is at TDC when doing this. Leak down test: In the very good range. 15% leak (Upper green area) of dial. Air is escaping through rings I guess. I hear gurgling which i'm guessing is the crankshaft sump. Spark test : Spark jumps 4mm - New PLug Impedance tests on coil and stator - check fine according to youtube video Carb: Using starter fluid to rule out carb. .Have also tried with serviced carb Have even push started by dragging behind car. No hint of starting. Any ideas on what to try next? Clue: Last time bike started it had been sitting for years, and started with old oil. Ran about 5 mins then shut off and has never fired since. The help is appreciated bigly!
  21. tater1994

    2000 wr400f cam timing

    I know this has probably been over a hundred times. But im at wits end. Does anyone know the STOCK timing for a 2000 wr400f? Right now i got it at intake came is at 9 12 and 3. And i got the exhaust cam retarded (clockwise) one link for the yz time? Is this right for a 2000? Ive heard that the 2000 wr400 the stock time was one of the cams retatded one link? Idk..it wont crank for nothin..it ran the other night for 20 min perfect. And hasnt since. Bowl keeps overflowing. Ive adjusted the float and tried to blow through the inlet with the float shut and it was sealed...its getting spark. Seems to have great compression. ..idk WTF else it could be! !??? Im at my wits end with this bike...
  22. Rx7man

    XR400 cam timing issues

    So I tore the 400 apart and put the new cam chain in, but the timing marks make no sense.. I line up the T mark on the flywheel and it doesn't feel like it's actually at the top of the stroke, with the valves closed it's still building compression.. could someone have put the flywheel on keyed wrong? sounds unlikely.. Yes, I'm sure it's the T mark and not the F mark... Should I put a dial indicator on the piston through the plug hole and use that as a mark instead? I've been getting so pizzed off with the automatic decompression I removed it all, and will just have a manual decomp like the 500.. so much easier to start! The old cam chain was REALLY stretched, I didn't have any accurate method of measuring it, but I'm sure if the were cut and laid end to end, the old one would have been 1/8th to 1/4" longer.. If you bent them sideways, the old one would bow twice as much as the new one. Should be getting the new tensioner for it here soon too.. I do NOT want a repeat of my close call. Any tips for getting that cam timed would be great
  23. I have done a lot of reading, research, trouble shooting, and work before I posted this. I apologize for how long this post is, but wanted to include all the details of what I've done to keep the thread in the right direction. So, I am having issues with my bike, and have done a ton of trouble shooting. Let me start of by saying I have checked my timing about 13 times, and have three other people verify it as well….I don’t think timing is an issue. I’ve also disconnected the kill switch. I’ve also rebuilt 4 top ends on various YZ250Fs in the past, however this is my first FI bike. My Bike: 2014 YZ250F GYTR head, FMF Ti Exhaust, 51 hours. Primarily ride track and race C Class (8-10 events per year). Work performed this time on the bike: Timing chain, a new 2015 stock piston, wrist pin, rings, and wristpin oil spray. Verify valve clearance after install, and rotation. I checked the cylinder, piston, rings, for clearance and tolerances. I checked the crank for tolerance as well. The piston has the F mark towards the front of the bike (which correlates with the intake valves, larger sized) (NO SPARK ISSUE): I put the bike back together and it would not start, no sputter, no burp, nothing. I diagnosed it as a no spark. I checked the timing and valve clearance (its dead on, and yes I know the exhaust valves go towards the rear of the bike), I checked the chain tension as well. I was trying to ground the plug to the valve screw and or the frame. I Disconnected and inspected all connections off the wiring harness, and checked for any fraying especially up around the radiators/frame area (all looked good). I followed the manual checking resistance on the kill switch, primary and secondary coil, spark plug cap, crankshaft position sensor, stator, checked ground, spark plug resistance and gap (also a new spark plug). I made sure the ECU was in the upright position. However, I was a retard and measured the secondary resistance of the coil including the cap…so it was 9k ohms over. I thought this was the issue, so I purchased and installed a new coil…but found this mistake after I already installed it. I pulled the clutch in and kicked the bike and Finally got spark!! My neutral switch is directly hardwired into the harness, so I could not pull it to check resistance. And for some bizarre reason, I get spark every time with or without the clutch pulled in. So the no spark issue should be cured....I think (see last few paragraphs). (I'm only able to see the spark when the spark plug is grounded to the frame, I don’t have the tool to inspect what happens when its installed in the head. I still am having trouble with a no start (next step CHECK FUEL SYSTEM) With spark figured out I’m still not getting a start, a sputter, any sign of life. I checked the timing again (its dead on). I checked the woodruff key on the flywheel, and can shine a light down the keyway and see the woodruff key in the keyway. I also checked that TDC is actually the same as what is marked on the flywheel by putting a long screwdriver in the spark plug hole and rotate the motor to see its highest position. I checked the timing again (its dead on). I dug deeper into the electrical system. I checked that I get voltage spikes from the stator, rectifier, and condenser. Unfortunately, my multimeter is just a handyman’s so it doesn’t hold the peak voltage, and takes the RMA so the spikes are lower than expected. However, I do see a spike in voltage for each of the electrical components listed above. I grabbed a GYTR programmer and connected it to the bike, No trouble codes showed. I checked the timing again (its still dead on). I continued looking into the fuel system. I set up a system to clean the injector with brake cleaner and a 9 volt battery, spraying cleaner into the fuel nipple and pulsing the injector. It sprays a large good mist, and did from the first spray. I then pulled the tank and connected the 9 volt battery to the fuel pump and can hear it spin. Checked the TPS with the GYTR programmer and shows no errors (throttle 5 deg at 0 and 88 deg at open I know I can adjust this better, but should not be a no start issue). I kicked 150 or so times. Variation of throttle open, closed, mid, Cold start open, closed….nothing. I pulled the plug and the plug shows only a little wet residue on the furthest parts from the electrode. The piston has a sheen of fuel when you shine a light down. The fuel line is not pinched, and you cannot squeeze the line, which is telling me the fuel pump is working, and the injector is spraying fuel. I also disconnected the fuel to injector connection and fuel sprayed like it was under a significant amount of pressure. As I was using compressed air (about 50 psi) to blow out the residual fuel from the top off the piston, I noticed air blowing out the exhaust. I rotated the motor to TDC, checked the timing, and blew again, still a bit of leak by…..ahhh leaky valves causing leak by and not allowing spark. I verified the valve clearance and it was still right in spec. Phase 2 So I pulled the head off to pull apart the valves. I found a bit of carbon buildup on the valves, and assume that during the cleaning, some of the carbon deposits were removed, and others weren’t which masked the valve clearance and sealing. Looking at my head, it needs seats to be cut and new valves. Fortunately, I know someone at Yamaha, and I had a spare GYTR head sitting in a box with 0 hours on it.....same part number as my existing one. I assembled the head, checked the valve clearance and timing. Rotated the motor lightly, and checked the timing and valve clearance again and chain tension. I kicked the motor over a few times, and checked the timing and valve clearance again. I also checked the timing chain tension, and the tensioner is doing its job. Assembled everything back together…….and still no spark…..WHAT the hell!!??!?! Checked the spark, and I still have spark. I tried spraying starter fluid in the intake and kicking….nothing. Sprayed starter fluid in the spark plug hole and then install the spark plug, still nothing. I checked the timing again, still dead nuts on. Had two other people verify the timing. I tried bump starting it, it sounded like bump starting a 2T with a fouled plug, just bog, bog, bog, wheel lock. Since there was absolutely no sputter, or sound of life with starter fluid, I’m thinking that it’s a electrical issue or a spark issue when the spark plug is attached to the motor. Thinking it might be a grounding issue, I pulled the ground wire off the frame (it looks as clean as the day it was installed), and reinstalled it. Still nothing. I am getting a fairly bright blue spark when grounded to the frame. I double checked the gap, and also tried a new plug....still nothing. I am now at a loss and feel like a retard. I really want to get back and ride some moto. I have talked with Yamaha on the phone a few times, and have helped me thus far. They have been great, but I'm a stubborn engineer, and would prefer to fix this on my own. I'm thinking the next steps are pulling the fly wheel and check the key (although I would think that verifying that TDC with the location of the mark on the fly wheel would prove this is accurate). Then replacing the Condenser, Stator, and/or ECU, then cam position sensor. I apologize for the extra long post, and have read and searched here and Vital (yes I saw the TPS thread on the 2015 YZ250F). Are there any other directions I should try, any other things I'm missing?…or should I give up and send it into a shop/dealer to diagnose? Thank you Joe
  24. SOLVED*** No timing issue, just had trouble lining up TDC Going to rebuild top end to fix low compression. Thanks for the help TT So I bought my 2003 crf230f a few months ago from a friend. The bike has definitely been ridden, and was blowing a little bit of smoke when I bought it so I knew the rings would be toast sooner or later. After a basic tune-up the bike ran really strong and I continued to ride it a few times a week for a couple months with no problems... Until last week when I was riding and it died on me. At the moment when the bike died, I was coasting down a hill so there was no extra stress on the engine, I just noticed the engine shut off- almost like running out of gas. From that moment on, the bike would not start so I towed it home and checked the essentials... Air, Fuel, Spark, Compression. Air- The new air filter I installed when I bought the bike was already covered in dust, so its possible the piston rings got even more dusted. I cleaned and oiled the filter anyway (the bike wouldn't start with the filter removed). Fuel- I recently changed my jetting to Mike Coe specs, and installed a larger pilot jet to eliminate popping on deceleration. The bike ran great with the new jetting and I know the carb is clean. I went ahead and cleaned out the gas tank and fuel lines and cleaned out the carb yet again. Spark- Spark plug was white due to running lean before I changed the jetting. Plug turned more of a brown color after jetting, indicating better A/F ratio. Replaced spark plug anyway and can see strong blue spark. Also, gas is making it to the plug. Finally did a compression test and had low compression. I adjusted the valves which were a bit out of spec, and saw no improvement. A wet compression test (one tsp oil in plug hole) showed higher compression, but still low, indicating the piston rings are toast. I ordered new rings and top end gaskets and will rebuild the top end next week. I was also wondering if I have a timing issue, since the engine at TDC (pic 1) shows the cam sprocket about 30 degrees (in the retarded position?) off from being horizontal with the head, as it should be according to the FSM and Clymer manuals. Also, when cranking the engine CCW by hand, the flywheel tends to spin past TDC and happens to align the cam sprocket perfectly horizontal with the head. Is my timing way off? Also, the flywheel has a || mark (pic 2) near TDC that I used to adjust the valves. Just today when I took the pictures, I noticed a |F mark (pic 4) that usually spins past quickly so I never saw it before. both marks appear close to TDC but the engine always wants to spin to the natural position (pic 5). Where is my true TDC? Manuals only show a |T mark. Are the cam sprocket lines supposed to be horizontal with the head? Maybe it jumped a tooth? I have read the cam chain tensioners are known to fail also. Edit: Found the T mark, updated photo near bottom of thread tl;dr Bike died on me, has low compression, going to rebuild top end. See pictures. Could this be a timing issue also? Does anyone know if the lines on the camshaft sprocket are supposed to line up with the horizontal lines on the head? Thanks in advance for the help! Pic 1- TDC at || https://imgur.com/QJXXjXH Pic 2- || mark https://imgur.com/v7dBSf8 Pic 3- TDC at |F https://imgur.com/DZCPBaT Pic 4- |F mark https://imgur.com/JbcVYhF Pic 5- Engine wants to spin to this position: Cam sprocket lines horizontal with head- https://imgur.com/S3rPRgd Let me know what you guys think. Has my timing jumped? I appreciate your help! Cheers, Spencer Edit: Finally found the damn "T" mark. Always spins past so I wasn't able to see it before. Updated picture posted near bottom of thread. Timing looks fine so just going to rebuild top end next week to restore compression
  25. nate9521

    02 cylinder on 99 kx250

    I am putting an 02 cylinder on a 99 kx 250 i bought. Ignition time for 99 is 11° BTDC @ 7000 rpm and timing for the 02 is 13° BTDC @ 7000 rpm. Is that a big enough difference where the stator should be adjusted or should it run fine?