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Found 13 results

  1. I purchased the bike a couple of weeks ago and on the test ride it was fine, but after getting home and taking more laps around the park, it stalled on me a couple of times during deceleration. So thanks to this forum I purchased the TPS tool and my reading is 0.71 which seems to be high from what I am reading. I am 24+ hrs better than a beginner, so maybe it is the Indian, not the arrow. Plan to set it down to 0.60 this weekend and give it a ride.
  2. Hey, guys. Sorry for my English) I am from Russia and write this text through a web-translator. I will try to convey to you the essence of my problem. About six months ago I bought a Suzuki RMX450Z 2010, which apparently was imported from the USA. At the time of purchase, I did not attach importance uncorked this Bike or not. But I immediately noticed that the previous owner has already installed some tuning, such as a silencer FMF Powercore 4, increased fuel tank, cooling Fan on the radiator and so on. The bottom line is, for the first few weeks, everything was fine, the bike worked flawlessly. But later, I began to notice that after some time after the beginning of the ride, the bike began to stall for no reason. As if he didn't have enough fuel. My friend and I decided that the problem lies either in the fuel pump or in the EFI unit due to poor quality Russian fuel. We decided to test our guesses empirically) the fuel pump worked properly, and the EFI unit visually also did not cause any suspicion, but just in case was cleaned with compressed air under pressure. Setting everything in place, the bike started without problems. At first even it seemed that everything is in order. But after a short time in the trip, the bike lost power, started failure at low revs, shots and terrible reaction to the throttle. TPS, we thought. Having restored factory values for throttle position sensor - we could not start the motorcycle at all) Having unsuccessfully spent several hours to find the cause of the failure, we gave up and decided to transfer the bike into the hands of a private service center. Then began a period of waiting for the results of diagnosis. After the cherished call from the guys, they reported that the problem lies in the wiring harness and need to order a new one. Well, I had to order from Japan wiring harness. After a long wait, finally a new spare part is received and transferred to the guys in the service center. Again the anxious waiting period, again a call from the guys I... another fiasco) and this time they said that the problem is not was in the wiring harness, and in fact, in the control unit FI. &%$#@!! - I thought, but I had no choice, so I had to order a new FI from Japan... And what do you think happened next ?) I got a new FI unit from Japan, handed it back to the guys and.... again disappointing news from them) My patience burst. No one knows what to do next. So let's summarize what we have. In the beginning of the post I intentionally wrote about some of the installed modifications on my bike. The bike is not the factory exhaust(silencer only), removed the throttle limiter, and also removed the snorkel. But I'm not sure that in the old FI unit had the right fuel cards written down, because according to the guys from the service, the old FI unit is also standard without modifications. Cherry bomb in my rmx I have not found too) But ! However, again, the first few weeks the motor bike worked great! How is that ? Could such symptoms be directly related to incorrect fuel cards ? The guys from the service center have already checked several times everything that can be checked - valve clearances, stator and magneto, fuel pump, fuel injection unit, all possible sensors including TPS, the spark plug was replaced, the wiring harness and FI were replaced (as I wrote above)... after all this, the motorcycle starts, works for a while and stalls, has sluggish response to the throttle, with loss of power, with sneezes and shots from silencer, failures at low revs/rpm (I don't know how to say it right) and as the guys from the service say the bike also has an unstable spark. What to do? Where to look ? Do you have any ideas ?? Sorry again for the English. With great respect to you - Vladimir from Russia).
  3. Hello, im wanting to find out what factory ohms/voltage is on the TPS (throttle position sensor) for my 2006 ktm 250sxf. Please let me know if you can help me out thanks!
  4. I think I've finally solved the flameout on my 2012 crf450r. I did everything short of sending the throttle body to injectioneering, which I have learned from these forums not to do if I ever want to see it again. What seemed to finally make the biggest difference for me was to adjust the tps while the bike was running and turn it up till the rpm's dropped and set it just before that. It was kind of like setting the air screw on a carb. I ended up at 0.60V for the TPS on my bike. It was set at 0.48V originally. As long as its warmed up I can wack the throttle wide open on the stand and it wont flame out, which I could never do before. It also hasn't flamed out on the past two rides since I set it. I'm having trouble finding the sources of what I had found online that taught me this method or I'd share the links to it. Maybe some of you already know about doing something like this. Anyways, reading into the injectioneering mod got me thinking too much. Although the flameout issue is solved, I can't help but thinking I could still get a better response off the throttle. What I've learned is the injectioneering mod changes three things. The butterfly valve is either replaced or modified so that it can rotate closer to 90 degrees when close, a hole is drilled into the bottom of the butterfly valve, and the tps sensor is reset for the new butterfly valve start position. I thought about messing with my throttle body to do these things but then decided it would be too much of a risk of ruining it. So looking on ebay for a cheap spare to mess with I noticed something. The pictures of the 2016 throttle body look like they have the hole in the butterfly and it kind of looks like its closer to 90 closed than the 2012 throttle body. Maybe Honda caught on over the years and incorporated these mods that seemed to work. So finally to my question. Does anyone know if the throttle body of a 2016 can drop into a 2012? Did the 2016 no longer have flameout and throttle response issues? Anyone think this is just a bad idea? I'm not sure I'll actually go through with it since I can finally live with the bike as is, but the idea has been nagging me so I'd like to hear what you guys think. 2012 throttle body 2016 throttle body my bike
  5. Bike is 2006 wr450f, dual sported. I tried to solve the steady throttle stutter with the TPS off and while it does help it starts to feel leaner and reduced power. While with the TPS I get the annoying stutter/miss. This was not so earlier and just started happening after I opened and cleaned the carb while reversing the upside down throttle plate done by PO(where the hole gets up inverted...this solved the idle issue completely). The needle clip is in 2nd from bottom, 2 jets that I photographed but don't know the names are 48 and 65. Main jet was slightly bigger than recommended. Other than the surging/stutter it rides fine. Appreciate any feedback and help Thanks Neel
  6. I Have a 2003 625 sxc with a mikuni carb and tps I am having a throttle position sensor voltage problem. The throttle position sensor with throttle closed it is reading at 4.8 volts At Wide open throttle its .78 I am reading I am measuring the voltage with the plugs still connected with the red lead form the DMM on 20v to the yellow wire and the black lead from the DMM to the black wire. I tried reversing the connections it was the same type reading but negative Has anyone had this problem
  7. Hey all, I've been having problems with my throttle position sensor on my Yamaha WR450F 2005. When the sensor is plugged in the bike runs very lumpy on constant throttle and is nearly un-ride-able. In the manual, and all over the internet, there are values of which the TPS must be set at and what resistance it should have. These are : 4-6 ohms resistance 0.58 - 0.78 volts My TPS is set perfectly within these values, being 4.9ohms and 0.72 volts. This indicates to me that my TPS is fine and there is no point buying another? But as soon as i unplug the sensor it does run NEARLY perfect, still very very slightly lumpy but hardly noticeable. Has anyone else had correct readings on their TPS but still isn't working? any help? I don't want to spend £300 on a sensor then it not actually be the problem? Thanks
  8. So I have a completely stock '15 500 EXC and with .585 vdc at TPS with 14/52 gearing and going to try13/52, seems to run fine with no issues. What would I expect performance wise if I de-smogged it & set TPS? Would a different map get me better low-end grunt? thanks
  9. Looking for some help and advice.. Rode my yz450f -15 last weekend and in the middle of the training session it started acting weird. I stopped at the side of the track and the bike was bogging and cutting out, ran fine on idle but as soon as i gave it any throttle it "suffecated" had big flames shooting from the exhaust at decel. I thought it may be vacuum in the tank but removing the gas cap didnt help. Couple of days later i started the bike up again at home and i ran fine, rode a short ride up and down the street and everything seemed ok. The other day at the track it was acting up again right from the start, soo i called it a day and went home. Started the bike up again when i came home and i ran good..what da f#ck is going on. I started to check for damage cables and connectors but everything looks fine, i also measure the resistance on the TPS. I later read in the manual that the TPS must be calibrated with the yamaha FI diagnostic tool, damn it! Also changed the spark plug. I read some threads about guys having problem with the TPS and yamaha even changed the parts nr on the tps soo there must have been a known issue with it. After i got the tps back on the bike it ran even worse, ran on idle for like 5 sec them died. Changed the tps 1mm, and tried again. Bike ran better but still not perfect. I emptied the gas tank and checked if there is a filter in the fuel pump, couldent find any filter, but i later found a thread describing how to disassemble the pump and clean the filter. Actually got some sand and dirt in the fuel from my gas tank but it wasnt a lot. Next week im gonna hook up a power tuner to look for codes. I feel pretty sure it either the fuel pump or the tps or maybe the injector. Next time in the garage im going to try the following: - Clean injectors - power tuner, codes? - clean fuel filter in the fuel pump - disconnect tps and see how the bike runs Its obviously running lean and not getting the correct amount of fuel at throttle opening, I dont really have much experience with these FI bikes. Dont have access to the FI diagnostic tool so at some point my dealer have to set up the tps for me. Seems very strange to me that the bike works one day and the next is acting weird, am i missing something? Would really appreciate some help!
  10. Hello everyone, I recently picked up my second KTM dirt bike, a 2015 350 XC-F after coming off my older 2006 250 SX-F. It kept having issues where the bike would completely die on me while riding. I sorted this out by putting new in fuel filters both in the tank and the small inline filter. It fixed my engine quitting problem, but then I realized I had a decel backfire and poping problem that to me sounded like it was because the engine was running too lean. I checked my valves to rule out a valve problem. Then I looked to the TPS on the bike. I read somewhere where someone said you could turn up the TPS to get it to quit. I incrementally stepped up the adjustment until the backfire went away completely. The problem is that it is turned all the way CCW. With the adjustment turned all the way up it runs like a champ. No back fires, no flameouts, pulls really really hard and the plug has that nice tan color to it that I would expect from a FI bike. The only thing that worries me is that if I put the sensor back at the .60-.70 voltage range where people say that they have been running them, the bike hardly idles and stalls at the crack of the throttle, but when I turn it back all the way up CCW it fires up and is unstoppable. My concern is that it isn't running at the stock voltage or even close to it. Also, I cleaned the injector using a 9v battery and aerosol injector/carb cleaner. I got some small pieces of dirt out but nothing big and it didnt change anything. I am new to these FI systems, but I thought they adjusted the fuel mixture automatically so to me it doesn't make sense why turning up the TPS changed the backfire. And I dont think it is a valve problem because of how it fixed it when I turned up the TPS. My question is 1) what is wrong with the bike to where it won't run at the stock voltage and 2) Am I hurting anything by running it how it is? Am I burning more fuel? I have been trying everything and I am pulling my hair out trying to figure out why it is doing this. But I have a new Lexx Exhaust with spark arrestor coming so I can ride in the mountains and if I have to turn the TPS up anymore to adjust for the new pipe I am up a creek because it is already maxed CCW. Thanks in advance for all your help, Josh
  11. sirthumpalot

    For adventure riders

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  12. Good day, I need help, I have a husqvarna fc 250 2014, when it is on it goes up and down the acceleration. check for tps and it says 4.7v / 4.8v. but when I want to adjust it moving it as it is commonly done. Nothing happens. always remains with the same voltage (4.8) that I can give solution?. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Buen dia, necesito ayuda, tengo un husqvarna fc 250 2014, cuando esta encendida sube y baja la aceleracion. chequee de tps y dice 4.7v /4.8v . pero cuando quiero ajustarlo moviendolo como comunmente se hace. nada sucede. siempre queda con el mismo voltage (4.8) que solucion puedo dar?
  13. Well the iggornant 17 year old that I am decided to rip the carb off without checking the service manual first for proper removal of the TPS connections. instead of discounting the connector at the wire harness I unscrewed the torx head screw to remove the whole thing. When I put it back together I noticed I wasn't getting the normal amount of power. Kinda suspected I didn't get somthing right in the carb. So I took it back off again the same way I took it off and double-triple checked my work and still had the same issue. So after further research in the manual I noticed that it said removal of the TPS was a no no cause it would result in loss of power. Is there a proper way to reinstall the tps sensor? I've searched numerous times on the topic of install but could never find a direct awnser. Any help you could give me would be appreciated thank you! I can awnser any questions you may have
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