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  1. Yesterday I traded my Isuzu P’up for my buddy’s ‘06 230. He’s had this bike since highschool so not the first time I’ve ridden it. I’m a fairly large guy at 6’5 and roughly 290lbs. Now, I know I have no business being on this bike but its good for putting around trails with the gf. Easy riding until the build is finished. Just looking for other bug guys’ experiences with aftermarket suspensions. Particularly the rear. The stock is completely blown out as you could imagine. I know I’m probably not gonna make out like a bandit from what research I have done. Just don’t know where to look. Thanks!
  2. I live in Michigan where the trails are largely loam with occasional stretches of pure deep sugar sand, as well as hard packed dirt (and the loam or dirt may have some rocks in it, and of course the dirt can get muddy, and the trails often have roots and in the fall leaves, sometimes wet leaves, all over the trail). My bike came from factory with Pirelli MT 320s which are, as near as I can tell, an all terrain intermediate tire that I've been pretty happy with except for one thing - when, on a loamy or dirt trail, I have to transition to pure, deep sand. Now the Pirellis are supposed to be inflated to about 16 psi but as near as I can tell most riders in Michigan, including me, ride with the rear tires at about 12 psi and the fronts around 8 psi. We reduce the air pressure as then the softer, flattened tires gives more traction in the sandy sections of Michigan trails. Now in reality, I may even deflate my front down to as little 6 or 4 psi, and rear to 10 or 8. Why? Because traction in Michigan sand is variable depending on climate. If it is wet and cool, even deep sand gives reasonable traction. If it is hot and dry the sand is highly unstable providing minimum stability. Of course, the problem with letting out so much air is that most of the time I (we) in Michigan are on loam or hard dirt, with roots and rocks interspersed, so it's unwise to ride with too little air in the tires. Now, no matter how experienced one is with sand, if is possible after riding a long stretch in dirt or loam to make a possibly serious mistake when one encounters the sand. Almost invariably my most serious mistakes happen in sand. It's usually a function of the front tire digging in to hot, dry sand or washing out. I want to emphasize how dangerous this is. If you don't often encounter hot, dry sand in your riding then you may not be able to appreciate the challenge that sand can be, especially when riding in proximity to trees (we have lots of trees and sand in Michigan). I was watching the Lucas Oil Pro Motocross race held at Southwick (on my computer) in 2017 and I was surprised to see how many (not all) of the top riders were uncomfortable with the sand at Southwick, and there were a lot of crashes. Aaron Plessinger took a bad spill on a fairly flat straightaway when his front tire washed out and then dug into the sand. It was then that it dawned on me that if the pros struggle with sand, then I need to be proactive and perhaps more aggressively seek solutions. I'm starting with tires, but my research raises more questions than provides answers so far - 1.) Pure sand tires, aka. "paddle tires" are too extreme for typical Michigan trails, which are mostly loam. 2.) So called "sand and mud" tires like the Dunlop Geomax MX12 are purported to be of a firmer rubber compound than a standard off road or MX tire, because the manufacturer wants a "firm" tire to to "dig in" and get traction in sand and mud. Conversely, they use a soft rubber compound in bikes that frequent hard surfaces like rock. The soft rubber is supposed to grip the hard surface better. However, here I (we) in Michigan are DEFLATING tires to get them flatter and softer, so why would I want buy a tire with an even stiffer rubber compound (here in Michigan, when riding in sand, if you can't depress the knobbies on your front tire with your fingers you have too much air in the tire - they have to squish, or you're risking the tire will dig in, or wash out, and throw you off bike). 3.) Sand and Mud tires don't have the regular knobby configuration, as they are designed to push sand mud and the self-clean, but then the problem becomes, if one puts "sand and mud" tires on a dirt bike and 80% of the trail is loam or hard packed dirt, is the cure worse than the disease? What's it like riding a sand and mud tire on loam or firm dirt? In short, while I could stick with a general purpose tire, and continue to deflate, it's those hair raising episodes in sand that compel me to seek a better solution. Any words to the wise out there?
  3. Hey forum. I was given a blown 07 Rm85l big wheel for free and have just put about $360 CAD into a rebuilding it, the connecting rod kit, piston kit, seals, and carb. Just wonder the opinions on if this was a deal or what. The bike came with papers and seems to be in alright working order asides from the motor, couple goodies, new wheel bearing front back and trickle tree bearing, new tire front newish tire rear, protaper bars, unbreakable break lever, handgaurds, large rad, and fmf shortie exhaust. I am about 5,9-10 157lbs. I just want to ride around on the trails for fun no racing and I'm wondering if I will have a terrible time, and if it will suffice for now? Thanks,
  4. Hi All, I am looking for a bike to start trail riding - no dirt biking experience up to this point. I found this offer today on the local classifieds: https://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/45131997 What do you guys think? Is this a good offer? I'm looking for a cheap, older bike I can learn on. Looking to do trail riding in the woods / mountains of Utah. If it's not a good offer, what would be a good price to offer for the bike? Also, how do we feel about a 2002? Is that too old? Will it have maintenance issues? Thanks
  5. Pictures are great, but I figured it could be fun to have a thread that is strictly dedicated to riding footage of our almighty girly bikes. There's been several people posting footage lately, so if this takes off and stays near the top of the forum for people to keep watching when we're bored, awesome. If not, then I guess it was worth a shot. I have quite a bit of footage, and some of my videos are rather long, so I'll just post 3 videos for now of 3 different areas that I went to last year with my new favorite trail bike. Nothing nearly as extreme as some of the riding others here are doing on their 230's, but still plenty of smiles to be had. This first video is from August and was basically my first week on the bike since buying. I had spent the previous months slowly getting the suspension and engine set-up, along with other trail-worthy mods. Fortunately, and not surprisingly, it felt fairly comfortable to ride from the get-go. This second video is from a trail riding event in southern Minnesota. They are actually horse trails but they hold this event on two weekends out of the year (1 in Spring, 1 in Fall) for us dirt bikers. Most of the trails are beginner/intermediate, but still very fun when the conditions are good. The third video is from some state trails that are more towards the northern end of the state. It was another trail ride event put on by our local district. Thankfully it wasn't a week later because we got dumped on with white stuff that is still here in April with more on its way...
  6. September 8th: https://waynecountymc.com/sprint-enduro September 14th and 15th: https://waynecountymc.com/monkey-butt-100
  7. I'm looking to get into the dirt bike market. I currently have a bike for the road - a Suzuki TU250X. This has quite a low seat height - 770mm or roundabouts - and this is comfortable for me. I could go an extra few centimetres particularly because dirt bikes are generally more narrow (so my legs won't be as wide apart) and I'd have thick dirt bike boots on. The dirt bike that I do get needs to be road legal as I want to ride it in national parks etc. rather then just private property. There are plenty of road registrable dirt bikes out there but the seat heights are insane. Most being around 870mm - 940mm which is way to high for me. I'm 5'2" with an inseam of about 63cm (I think). So, as you can imagine it's hard finding something that fits - with most bikes leaving my feet dangling. I have been looking at the Honda CRF250L, as its stock seat height is smaller then most. It looks like something that is marketed at the weekend trail rider rather than hard core enduro or motocross rider and that's fine by me - I just want something easy to ride. Its stock seat height is 875mm and I want to know what the best ways of lowering it - I don't weigh too much so lowering the suspension is okay (I know it affects the ride). Does anyone have suggestions? I also see the Suzuki DR200S - with a seat height of 845mm (which is lower) but I have to say I'm not keen on the way it looks... Silly I know. Suggestions on lowering this one? Otherwise, are there any other suggestions of bike model and their lowering techniques.? I'd rather not have a bike less than 200cc's. 250cc-300cc's is ideal. Any help would be amazing. I have been looking for some time but I am striking out. Thanks in advance! 🙂
  8. Today I went riding and was riding terribly. I am faster than most of my friends, but there are two that I just can't seem to keep up with or do the tricks they can do. Anyways, today I was riding with those two friends on railroad rocks and slid out and fell, which I have never done before. I feel like my bike's beating me up and I want to feel like I have more power and balance. I seriously need help on getting faster and more stable. What can I do to ride better and feel more in control? Maybe something's up with my bike which is causing this? But give me your guys riding tips! I need them! Thanks! P.S I also just recently upgraded to a larger, more powerful bike, which is my new YZ250F.
  9. Updated 05/05/2020: product is now USFS approved. If you’re looking for an economical, yet high-quality modular spark arrestor for your round core 2 and 4-stroke muffler, take a look at the solution from Fisch Moto. It’s offered in 5 sizes to fit a wide-range of mufflers and comes complete with everything needed for installation, including the correct Allen wrench. No drilling out rivets to install an expensive new spark arrested end-cap, Fisch Moto spark arrestors slide right into your existing end-cap. Making your bike spark arrested just got easier & more affordable. Manufactured in Canada, Fisch Moto precision machines the spark arrestor body from corrosion resistant 304 stainless steel and it’s held securely in place with 3 stainless steel set screws. Using the included Allen wrench, the Fisch Moto spark arrestor can be installed or removed in a matter of a few minutes. Spark Arrestor Kit Sizes Kit 20 (20.0mm-25.4mm / 0.800”-1.000”) Kit 25 (25.5mm-29.4mm / 1.004”-1.157”) Kit 30 (29.5mm-35.4mm / 1.161”-1.394”) Kit 35 (35.5mm-40.4mm / 1.398”-1.591”) Kit 40 (40.5mm-45.7mm / 1.596”-1.800”) 2 or 4 stroke, if your muffler core is round, chances are Fisch Moto has you covered. From the Horse's Mouth “There really was no middle ground option on the market for spark arrestors. You could change your full exhaust for one with a sparky in it, or you could dismantle your existing setup and put in something cheap. We just wanted to take our bikes out and ride and there was nothing available that made it quick and easy. We couldn't find a solution so we made one. Inexpensive, and quick to install. No need to set aside an afternoon to clean it out, you can do that in minutes before loading up.” Henry Pankratz, Co-owner Fisch Moto Fisch Moto modular spark arrestors are intelligently designed and built to last. Shop Fisch Moto Modular Spark Arrestors
  10. Hey guys, relatively new to riding dirt bikes. I am a solid mountain biker in Colorado and love technical riding and want to get into a new sport. I am looking at two bikes: an 05 crf250x and an 11 kx250f. Both bikes are in my budget (around 2k). The crf has an electric start and the kx has the fuel injected system. If I am going to be riding mainly trails which would you recommend? Looking for suggestions related to convenience as well as reliability and maintenance. Thanks so much for any and all help in advance!
  11. Looking for new people who are loyal riders in Florida that love to ride AND new spots tho ride hit me up
  12. Below is an image (red, white and blue) of a fairly typical dirt bike helmet, like the model I have. I found that when I struck a tree with my head (fortunately, going slow) that the impact of the tree with the projection out in front of the chin forced my head back sharply, giving me whiplash. I had neck pain for months. My doctor said if you sever/snap your spinal cord up high like that you would become a quadriplegic. Now, below second helmet design (red) I see more of in pro motocross races. Notice the chin is less pronounced. I also notice that in crashes in pro races the visor snaps off easily, as it should to lessen whiplash. So, am I riding with the wrong helmet in the woods?
  13. I am hoping to get some tips and advice on my recent purchase of a 2008 yz 250f. Before this bike I had an 02 wr426f. I switched to get a lighter bike that would be better suited for tighter trails and the track, and can definitely notice the obvious differences between the wr and yz. I am a novice at best, and am not an adrenaline junky either. I plan to do another hare scramble next year with the yz 250f after I get used to this bike. There is obviously a huge difference from the 426, and am wondering if i can close the gap between the two while maintaining some of the feel of the yz. Does this make any sense??? Do you have any suggestions on gearing or anything else that would help "smooth" out the low end power? I realize its already less intense than the bikes 2 stroke counterpart, but still wondering if there is anything that can be done? I do not need instant ripping power simply based on my riding style, but at the same time am not looking to putz through the trails and track. I was thinking of going up 1 tooth on the front sprocket, but from what I have read am now slightly concerned about that on the tighter trails that I ride. I don't feel the need to be the fastest rider on the trails or under any illusion that I will be getting "discovered" by anyone lol. I am 35 years old and weigh about 170lbs. I had considered dropping down to a 125, but think it wouldn't handle my weight well or might not hang in some of terrain that I occasionally ride. I appreciate any constructive advice!
  14. Hi I was wondering how good a 125 2 stroke would be for long distances. For example would it be a good bike for dirt roads and old rail road tracks? Also how long would a tank of gas last of fairly easy riding but still getting on it every once and a while? I have a yz250f and its a good bike but I love the simple design of a 2 stroke and am tired of dealing with the valves on 4 strokes. Anyways let me know what you think and thanks for reading.
  15. I have a 2012 YZ250 with FMF Fatty and Shorty combo right now but I’m not National Forest friendly here in NC. I mainly want to hear from those that have direct experience or knowledge with the FMF Fatty and PC 296 spark arrestor and how it plugs and plays. But also any arguments against it and recommendations are also welcomed! #yz250
  16. I recently bought a 01 YZ250 for simple trail riding and man I'm am freaking loving this bike. I mean my RT180 is great for ripping around on trails as well but the torque on the YZ is unbelievable. I'm gonna have a lot of fun on this thing as my skillset gains mass. Heres some gratuitous amateur enduro pr0n.
  17. I’ll be moving to Oceanside, CA area fairly soon. I’m looking for trail riding spots that have awesome views along with some gnarly terrain. Willing to travel 3-4 hours if the spot is worth it.
  18. Hi, I need some help everyone I have a yz250f I am just riding trails with it I like the bike but has way to much torque, what size sprockets should I use to bring down the toroque a lot ? 13/47 or is 13/45 to small ?the bike has stock sprockets of 13/50 any advice would be great thank you!
  19. Hey guys and gals, I'm a Long Islander that is looking to do some exploring up state. Anyone up there care to share their local trail rides? If you want to come down to Long Island and do some trail riding I welcome that idea as well. Its rather flat here, with a good amount of road crossings but still a good time. Let me know what you think. Heres a little preview of whats around here. https://youtu.be/x9jbGgwGfYk
  20. Just recently moved to Centreville Virginia (25 miles west of D.C.) and I'm looking for some places to ride, preferably some trails. If anyone knows of some places in Northern Virginia, Western Maryland, North Eastern West Virginia, South Western Pennsylvania, I'd appreciate some input. I've ridden Taskers Gap and Moto Cove but I'm looking for something new. Hatfield McCoy is a little too far, and MX tracks aren't my forte. Thanks! -DTEW
  21. Looking for good place to ride in south Florida and new people from Clearwater to spring hill area
  22. Check out my videos if you like watching trail riding videos! Really means alot! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbAudDXdM-RYMgrDkRalTYQ?
  23. With warmer weather and the riding season around the corner for many of us, I wanted to cover a topic that can either make or break an event. Whether you’re competing in a racing series or traveling to the track or trail, let's talk about event preparedness. More specifically, what spare parts should you keep on hand? Plus, what methods do you use to keep your spares organized? Honestly, I struggled with organization until I started working on this post. I had no method to my madness. Every time an event came up I’d do the same thing; throw a bunch of stuff in a box or the back of my van and head to the event. The sad part is I now realize this was a weakness of mine for quite some time, but didn’t do anything about it! Maybe you can relate? I finally said enough is enough. I don’t throw my tools in a cardboard box when I go to a race, leaving what I bring to the fate of my memory. So why would I do that with the spare parts I bring? I started solving this problem by compiling a spreadsheet detailing what spare parts I keep on hand for ice racing and hare scrambles. I realize that each discipline will differ and may have niche parts that should be kept. The goal here is not to definitively define what spares one should keep on hand, but to have a conversation and provide a resource that can be used to help people get set up based on their own needs. Once I took inventory of everything I felt I wanted to bring to a race, I went to Menards and went hunting for the perfect organized storage bin/toolbox. Here’s what I ended up with: Naturally, once I returned with the toolbox, my list grew and I probably need to go back for a bigger one. I intend to store a copy of the spreadsheet in the tote so I can keep tabs on inventory and know exactly what I have available. Should I get another bike, this system is easily replicable and my plan is to get another organized toolbox that goes with it. This system is how I went from being an unorganized “throw it in the van at the last minute” rider to a more relaxed well prepared rider. I’d love to hear how you handle event readiness, what you bring, and how you keep track of it. My hope is that by sharing our strategies we’ll save someone the misfortune of having a bad day at the track or trail. Perhaps I'll even end up with more things I need to add to my list. -Paul If enjoyed this post be sure to follow my blog and sign up for my newsletter! DIY Moto Fix Newsletter
  24. So I have been riding quads for fun my whole life but until recently (past two years) I have been doing a lot more trail riding and hill climbing. I have always worn just jeans and boots/tennis shoes, a long sleeve and of course a helmet and goggles. Are riding boots, riding pants, and jerseys really necessary for what I am doing or could I stick to regular clothes and work boots? Thanks.
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