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Found 6 results

  1. Was riding my 450, testing out a new speedometer, shifted into 2nd, moved a couple feet and heard a loud crack noise from engine area. Will not turn over, sounds like its jammed or seized from moving. My guess is tat the timing chain just exploded and fouled everything up. Haven't found time to open it up. Thought I'd go to forums to get some opinions on what to look at first. As far as back round info: Engine was opened up to replace some gaskets. replaced my valves and adjusted rockers to .05mm. Timing chain taken apart a couple times. Shifts through gears fine even though it doesn't run. I am not very fond of ktms or dirt bikes in general but fairly mechanically inclined. I don't know what to do so here I am on the forums. Any help or advice is much appreciated. Thank you.
  2. Hi, First time poster here. About a month ago I purchased a used 2002 DR-Z 400 S for an undisclosed amount. Was ridding it home ~300 miles and made it ~40 short of home. Flywheel starter clutch's bolts (X6) sheared leaving me stranded and left the stater mangled. Fast forward to now ~1 month later. Still haven't been able to take her for a spin despite devoting most my afternoons to her. When trying to start her I would just get occasional backfires, and finally with a different stater a brief start (maybe 5 seconds) on two occasions, now I'm getting nothing, just turning over. So far I'v: -Checked valve clearance (at tdc) all in spec. -Replaced stater twice, once with Chinese crap (just backfires), and now on rick's stater (2 brief starts) -Thorough cleaning of carb (fcr 39 mx) -Tested coil, wire, boot, and plug -Battery is good -Engine turns over -Oil was acceptable -Clean gas (stabilized) 93 oct -Comp test......60 PSI <--- ??? (seller may have vaguely mentioned its a 410?)(crap aftermarket piston/sleeving?) My questions: What could cause the bolts to shear?? It was ridding fine until I stopped for gas and had no starter motor flywheel engagement, why is it now not starting with engagement? If the comp is really that low can that be the cause of my failure to start, and really what gives here? I have yet to test the grounds, where do I check and is it worth testing given my situation? Recommendations, questions, ideas? Will post pics on request. Thanks all -Kindill
  3. Cody Robert John Allison

    odd engine noise low tone whine/howl

    I picked up a 2014 KTM XCF-W 350 with 36 hours on it off craigslist. I was told it had no problems with it and it was check out by a mechanic. Silly me thought is was a steal of a deal and picked up overlooking major potential issues. First off noticed the oil was way over full and oil leaking thru the weep hole (no oil was leaking after 30 min test ride). Tells me the water pump bearings need to be replaced. Done. Fixed that issue, no more leak. With new motor oil and filter and new coolant. The bike makes great power, starts on first try no issue except this very odd sound. I originally heard this sound during the 30 min test ride and this being my first KTM, thought this was normal. I now feel it is an issue. This sound is like a deep whine/hum. The sound resonates around the front of the motor, the tone is not affected by rpm's, no power lose, no issues starting, the sound is loud enough to hear inside my helmet doing hwy speeds, the sounds is almost constant (meaning that at certain speeds it may go away but it may just be drownded out my the sound of the muffler). The sound is heard at idle but not when the motor is cold(at first start up). The bike is not over heating. First thought is a spun bearing but then its not affected my rpm. Second thought maybe water pump but its not overheating. Third thought maybe its a thermostat not operating correctly as this would have nothing to do with rpm's and works with hot and cold engine. The only thermostat i know of is at the cap where coolant is added. If i am overlooking something or you have experienced this before. Please let me know. I am going crazy trying to figure this out. Have not come across anyone experiencing this same issue on this forum or google. What are your thoughts. THank you.
  4. First image has story and background, to summarize the bike ran "great" before "a groundhog chewed the stator wire" following which it would not start, the last few images are of the old stator which the owner had attempted to rewire "exactly the way they were found" to bypass the chewed sections with no success. I have since noted that there is no spark, replaced plug with parts store acclaimed "equivalent" to the NGK CR8EK which says Autolite 4403 Copper Core and gapped plug @ .6mm / .024" replaced wire / distributor cap there is no killswitch hooked up but "ran fine before without one" and owner was "using the decompression valve" as a killswitch, i advised him to discontinue that method. i used a voltage checker (one of those AA battery powered beepers idk if that would detect it) and did not note any power coming from stator, case, wires, or coil / distributor wire Are there any multimeter tricks I could do to determine source of issue? Is this supposed to be a dry stator and is the oil noted in case of stator an issue?
  5. First image has story and background, to summarize the bike ran "great" before "a groundhog chewed the stator wire" following which it would not start, the last few images are of the old stator which the owner had attempted to rewire "exactly the way they were found" to bypass the chewed sections with no success. I have since noted that there is no spark, replaced plug with parts store acclaimed "equivalent" to the NGK CR8EK which says Autolite 4403 Copper Core and gapped plug @ .6mm / .024" replaced wire / distributor cap there is no killswitch hooked up but "ran fine before without one" and owner was "using the decompression valve" as a killswitch, i advised him to discontinue that method. i used a voltage checker (one of those AA battery powered beepers idk if that would detect it) and did not note any power coming from stator, case, wires, or coil / distributor wire Are there any multimeter tricks I could do to determine source of issue? Is this supposed to be a dry stator and is the oil noted in case of stator an issue?
  6. Greetings to everyone. After a lot of searching I finally decided to join this forum in order to finally find a solution to my problem. Here's my story. Bought in a hurry an sm610 2005 (cylinder with the small tensioner) which wouldn't start cold. Only if I connected it to a car battery would it start but not always and not easy. Got a new 14amp battery and nothing. Spark plugs,starting spray etc nothing worked out. If the engine was cold it would start in an instant very very easily. Took it to a mechanic he told me that it had no compression so he grinded the valves. When I got there to take it back he told me that my pick up coil was in bad condition and needed to be replaced in order to start cold. Of course nothing changed after the valve job and after 5 hours of riding(not constant) my new head gasket blew and when I took it apart I found a crack in the water passage on my head right next to the blown up spot on my gasket. I don't know if it was already cracked or if it cracked after gasket blew all I know is that it was tightened properly as I was in front when this happened. I'm just trying to figure out why i can't get it to start cold. All answers are welcome. I had the head fixed and I'm ready to reassemble the engine. Could the pick up coil actually be responsible for this? Another thing I noticed. My tensioner had an apostate welded up to it so i needed a new cam chain as well as a new tensioner. I have these. Could the ruffled chain be in charge? The engine was perfect when hot starting and working like a charm. Please someone help as I'm ready to take the damned thing and throw it into the ocean. PS is the pick up coil from an lc4 engine compatible?
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