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Found 12 results

  1. Today I installed a TST fender eliminator, TST flush mount blinkers and new levers on myDRZ. During the test drive everything was fine. About an hour later I took it out to run to the store. I popped a wheelie and noticed I forgot to tighten the bolt that holds the clutch lever into the housing. As I was riding the wheelie the bolt fell off. I immediately hit the back brake and came to a stop. Put the bike in neutral and assed how I was gonna get home. Not even a minute later the bike sputtered like it was cold and the choke wasn’t on then the bike dies. I try restarting the bike but nothing happens not even a click or turn over noise, but it can be bump started and it runs fine(how I got home). My question is why won’t hitting the start button and pulling in the clutch start the bike I have to jump start it to get it to turn over. Keep in mind when I turn the key on all the lights come on it just won’t start when I press the ignition button. Any ideas on trouble shooting or possible causes? This bike has 1,189 miles on it and I completed the first service at the dealership.
  2. Greetings boys and girls, I recently became the proud owner of my very own KTM! A 2009 690 Enduro R (sitting just under 10k miles). I have lusted after this bike for many years and finally had the extra cash to pick one up. However, it hasn’t all been good. In the very short period of time I’ve owned it, it has left me stranded 3 times! I have been playing catch up on all the previous owners maintenance that he had “deferred” and in the process, trying to accomplish the mods needed to make this rig more reliable. I’ve got to say that when it is running, it is probably the most fun thing on two wheels. It eases the sting a bit for when it breaks down. Anyways, I digress… lets get down to the current issue at hand. Current Problem: Click here to see a video of what it does Once the bike is fully warm, usually after I have been riding around for 1-2 hours, the bike will all of a sudden start to sputter (as if it is suffering from a fuel cut) and eventually after a few moments it will die altogether. The problem can be more quickly brought on if I am riding around town in stop and go traffic in the hotter part of the day. The bike will start right back up again but will generally sputter and die again within 10-30 seconds if you continue to ride around. Or if you start it after it initially dying and let it idle, it can idle for up to a minute before it dies on its own. The main thing to take away from this is that it only does this when it is really hot. (usually 4 bars on the gauge, that’s as hot as it ever gets with the fan switch mod) I should also mention that there is no blinking FI light. Secondary problem: Sometimes when you start the bike the dash will flash the wheel size measurement on and off: “LENGTH 1870” and a couple other symbols for a few seconds to half a minute before it displays the speed and all the regular information. I don’t think this is related to the issues but I thought I’d make mention of it. Current mods and notable part replacements: *Akro Slip on *K&N drop-in air filter *Power Commander V with tune for pipe and intake (from Rottweiler) *CA Cycle works Fuel pump (less than 200 miles on it… the OEM one died a couple days after I bought the bike) *New in tank fuel filter (bike does not have an inline filter) *New KTM injector (less than 100 miles on it… old one dribbled fuel causing hard starting after sitting) *RR Manual Cam Chain Tensioner *New NGK spark plug *KTM Twins Low temp fan switch *-15 Exhaust Rocker *Valves recently lashed and are in perfect spec *All the emission components are removed What I’ve done so far: *Completely disconnected the Power commander from the bike and ran the bike in stock ecu config- the problem still occurs *Checked all electrical connections and took apart the bike and went over the entire wire loom - no defects noted *Checked the battery with a multi meter with the bike off and running, battery appears perfectly healthy both static and running *Swapped back to the old leaking injector – problem still occurs *Disconnected the tip over sensor – this causes an FI light, the problem still occurs *Disabled the kickstand sensor with a dongle – the problem still occurs *Replaced the voltage regulator with a nice mosfet unit, didnt fix the problem but the regulator runs so cool now! *Put a meter on the ignition coil and spark plug connector, both of these values read almost dead nuts in the middle of the specified range *Put a meter on the stator connector, the manual says the resistance should be less than or equal to 1 ohm at 68 degrees F. Both my measurements read 2.1 ohms, but its also about 80-85 degrees in my garage... so I'm not sure if this is acceptable or not? Possible ideas: *Throttle Body Sensors/ blade gears - This is something I'm hesitant to get into since if I mess with it and take it to the dealer I wouldn't want them to blame me for messing with it. I only say this because my dealer told me that KTM has warrantied complete throttle bodies for 690's before- even on older bikes like mine. *Fuel pump – God forbid this would be the issue since I just replaced this… but it seems like the bike is suffering a fuel cut and I know that they tend to have issues when they get hot… but every time this problem has occurred I’ve had at least 2 gallons of gas in the tank… I also triple checked my hose routing when I installed the new fuel pump/ filter and made sure it didn’t kink as it went in. *ECU failure - just grabbing at strands here... maybe its fudgin up when it gets hot for some reason. _________________________________________________ Sorry for making yet another 690 thread… Thanks for reading this, ANY input is appreciated. I will try to keep this organized as I remember to add things so it is somewhat easier to read over. THANK YOU
  3. All; Ran into some problems today and I'm hoping for some good pointers. I was out riding for only 10 minutes or so today on my kx450f that had previously been, dare I say it, reliable, and I had some strange issues culminating in some stranger ones. The first problem was a whining noise and reduced power, even though the engine was still running fine. I stopped and looked at it for a bit when nothing seemed to be wrong I kept going, it was fine under light power, but it soon did it again. This time, while I was looking for the culprit in neutral it jumped into a semi-gear, whining and pulling forward some, but not fully engaged yet. I knew something was wrong and rode it home, trying to keep it under light power. In the shop, I let it idle for a minute without finding the false gear and then goosed it once and it snapped into second with no input. As of now, after some experimenting, I have learned that the shifter feels fine, you can feel out 1st-4th including neutral. 1st-4th are all engaged, but so is neutral (I believe it is second gear, but I wasn't going to ride it to confirm and, as I will explain, it cannot just be in second gear) when shifting to second from "neutral" it makes the same noise/feel I'm used to. The odd bit is that the clutch no longer works as it should, when the clutch is out the tranny is hooked to the engine in every gear including neutral (again, I believe that is second) and when the clutch is squeezed the transmission is still hooked up in the gears, only releasing in neutral (so neutral cannot just be second gear). After removing the clutch basket I confirmed that the rear tire is engaged with the motor in the transmission somewhere which seems to me like it shouldn't be possible, I was previously under the impression that the only way for the transmission and the motor to be hooked up was through the clutch. While I had the clutch basket out testing this I had a look around at the gears and shift linkages visible from that side and all looked well, but I can upload a picture if you think the problem could be there. So, to reiterate, the problem began with some whining and then graduated into a full lock together. When the clutch is open (as it would be while sitting still in gear with the motor running) all of the gears remain hooked from the motor to the tire as it would be if it were functioning normally with the clutch closed. With the clutch closed, all gears and neutral result in the motor being hooked to the back tire. I am new here, but I hope you won't judge me too hard for that, I'm not a pro, but I have some experience working on various cars, motorcycles, dirt bikes and four-wheelers and I have a brother who is a Polaris mechanic who was similarly stumped. I really appreciate any help I can get. Thank you!!
  4. Hey all! I have a 2011 Gio X31 250cc that is losing compression gradually. It had amazing compression when it was new...but now it's becoming a tiresome task to kick-start when my electric start is down. It's burning a small amount of oil, but I don't even have to top it up between oil changes (~10 hrs. per change). I'm thinking it just needs a valve adjustment to bring the compression back up. I'm surprised how good this engine has been. I ride it hard and it keeps up with bikes 2-3x the hp and refuses to die! I don't know how to adjust the valves on a 4-stroke, let alone a Chinese one. If any of you know how to adjust the valves on a Gio X31 250cc I would appreciate the help! Do I need to pull the engine for this? Thanks
  5. i've been lurking for a couple of years and this forum has been an immense help. a lot of very knowledgeable dudes here that i hope can enlighten me. '08 150f. i replaced the battery with an anti-gravity lithium but the fuse blows when i connect it. had the battery tested, it's fine. tried my 12v lawn mower battery and the fuse blew. l have the service manual so i tried to troubleshoot it. i determined(wrongly lol) that the relay switch was bad and ordered one($65&non-returnable). the fuse still blows. i can connect the batt. directly to the starter and the engine turns over. i then check continuity for the ground side of the 4p connector. none. manual says clutch switch or neutral switch. i had bypassed the clutch switch to put on asv f3 perch and lever. so i untape the wires and fiddle with it and finally get continuity at the 4p connector ground side. hallelujah, i've got it i think. i connect battery AND THE FUSE BLOWS. i'm almost ready to take it to the shop and let them figure it out but wanted to ask here first for any ideas. so why in the @#%@ does the fuse keep blowing when i connect the battery?
  6. I have a 2001 DRZ400e that has had a rough life. I have had it about a year, and about a month ago I noticed that it had a lot of top end noise coming from the cam chain. I ordered a new chain from hot cams, and a manual cam chain tensioner from the TT shop (as I have heard that the stock automatic ones are known for having issues). I installed my new chain, making sure that my cam timing was correct, and installed my tensioner according to the directions that came with it. I fired it up and the noise was gone. I took it on a victory ride for about an hour towards the end of the ride I started noticing a different noise. I pulled over and when it was idling, I heard a little click, and the bike shut off. I tried cranking it for just a second and it cranked really quickly. I walked it home and haven’t dug into it yet. I am hoping that it just jumped a tooth at a lucky time and didn’t bend any valves or anything, but I’ll know more later. I’ve never used a manual tensioner before, so any ideas of what could have caused this? Any other issues this could have caused?(provided I don’t have a hole in my piston) BTW this is my first post here, so let me know if I need to do anything different, or post it in a different category. Thanks
  7. I have recently been having problems with my honda mtx 125. It will run great for 10 minutes then it will die on me if i give it any throttle. The bike will idle fine but cuts out if I give it any gas. When I let it Idle for 1 minute it will work fine for another few minutes then the same problem happens. I have adjusted the carburetor many times to see if it was because its too lean or rich but the problem happens either way. I am running 40:1 fuel mixture. I recently replaced the head gasket and I noticed the piston needs replacing as its very worn, could this be the problem? Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated!
  8. Hey everyone! I'm new to Thumpertalk and found out about you through research on my first bike purchase ( 2006 Suzuki DRZ400SM ). My wife new I had been checking this one out for some time and got it for me. I am new to riding and a friend recommended I check out a supermoto as well. this was on my bucket list for a while ( learn to ride a motorcycle ). Anyways, she paid 2,500 for it. Tires are Battleax S20 hypersports, got them for a deal from a local shop in Orangeburg, SC. The reason I'm posting is when I was riding out to a friends house the other day I hopped on the freeway and went to the next exit about a mile away, the bike died on me and I could not restart it. I was in 4th and didn't notice I should've shifted 1 up, by that time I was getting off the exit. I wasn't in 4th for that long and not sure what I did. I know im a big newb but was wondering what are your recommendations? When I was pulled over the battery started dying once I tried to start it multiple times. Had fuel in it, drove it the day before no issues, and have been driving all summer with no hiccups ( starts up on first try as well, well did haha ). I had my wife grab me a new battery at the store and started draining that one as well while attempting to start. I never leave the lights on or kill switch engaged. The bike would began to start with battery and never turn over. I can here the exhaust ever so lightly but will not hold if that makes sense. All help would be gratefully appreciated! And how do you like the setup? I plan on changing the headlight and refurbishing the exhaust ( the guy we bought it from-friend was awful at loading and unloading the bike when he borrowed it ), the owner before the guy we bought it from made all the modifications ( guy we got it from did not obviously ). The Yoshi plates were damaged during loading and unloading the bike as they don't have much respect for things. I spoke to a rep from Yoshi and said they were not difficult or costly to replace badging. The bike has approx. 10,000 miles on it and is a joy to ride. I didn't want to buynew because I'm new. What I do know about bike : Protaper grips, Protaper Henry Reed Countour bars, Brembro Clutch, Rear handle bar brake, Hel brake lines?, Excel rims, cracked reservoir tank, 50 stunt bike savers ( that will not protect exhaust lol ), Acerbis hand guards, Acerbis front fender, Trailtech headlight ( not bright at all ), Yoshimura RS4 twin carbon exhaust, Rear delete of some sort, and think its a trail tech screen, a quick battery connection near battery box, Moty 4 cell battery, and aftermarket seat cover with a hole cut out in the middle under cover ( maybe use to hide battery there or tried and didn't work ), Thumper talk case savers, New Bridgestone Battleax S20 Hypersports 140 rear I don't plan on riding much offroad with this bike because of my area Charleston SC and because of the exhaust. I do not see that the airbox mod was done and looks to be a uni air filter as well. I plan on modifying the bike and know the airbox, jetting, and exhaust are recommended first upgrades. Should I just upgrade the carb to a 39 and go that route and will I still need to modify the airbox if I do so? I want to bring this bike back and to upgrade it the right way. Sorry for being long winded but I'm new and thought to give you as much info as I could would help The only thing I've done to this thing is add fuel and remove a bunch of randomly placed manufacturer stickers I did notice what looked to be fuel from the hose hanging above the left foot shift lever from time to time as well
  9. Hey guys, thanks for taking the time to read. A couple of days ago I went on a little beach ride and come across a shallow crossing (Salt water) and decided it should be okay if I wash it well after. Anyway, I crossed the water a little bit too fast and got a bit wet. Around 500m - 1KM after the crossing, the bike cut out. Couldn't get it going and had to push it home, luckily it was only about 1KM away from home. I got it home, had a beer and went back to try and start it again and it started right up so I thought nothing of it. A couple of days later I attempted to go for a ride and couldn't as I drained the battery trying to start it previously. So I charged the battery right back up to approximately 13.6V. It kicked right over and I took off, got about 500M and it died again so I pushed it home. Checked the battery voltage and it was fine, so that is not the issue. Checked all fuses and they are good. So I left it for a day, and started it again the next. Exact same thing, rode about 500M and dead. What do you gents think is the issue? I don't know whether its an electrical issue, like maybe some connections of oxidized up (happens very quick here on the coast). Or maybe its something to do with the fuel not getting into the carby. What is the first thing I should look at? Thanks a ton guy! Bonus, here is the video where the drama occurs (Starts at 6:50)
  10. Hey everyone, I am new to the world of 2 strokes and I am having an issue with a 1996 CR250r that I recently acquired. To begin with the bike will bog down when I first hit the throttle and will do so again if I let it sit for a bit. However the problem goes away if I am constantly on and off the throttle. The larger issue however is that the bike seems like it is hitting a rev limiter at 3/4 throttle and the power is lacking for a bike this size. Id appreciate any help in trying to figure this out.
  11. I've got a 2013 Husqvarna WR 300 that has been giving me some trouble. I purchased the bike a few months ago knowing that I needed to throw in some new wheel bearings ASAP. After a ride or two I ordered some bearings (all balls), thew them in, and went out for a ride. The wheel seemed okay until I got it back into the shop on a stand and.... what do ya know... there was play again in the front wheel at the bearings (1/8 to 1/4 inch at the tire... not good.) After taking the wheel apart I realized the hub was cracked where the oil seal seats. With that being said, I ordered a new (slightly used hub) off eBay and transferred the rim and spokes over to the new hub. I just drove in some new bearings into the new hub, put the wheel on the bike, and somehow there is still around an 1/8 play in the wheel. I've checked everything I know to and am about ready to sell the thing. Does anyone have any advice or experience with this kind of issue?? Any help would be much appreciated!
  12. (Bike: Husqvarna FE350 / KTM EXC 2016) I need to test my rollover switch in an attempt to diagnose why my bike died 30 minutes after being dropped hard on granite and never restarted again (I have fuel pressure and spark and I might have enough compression, no wire appears damaged, good stator, good injector voltage, but fuel pressure 10% below min spec but that's another topic). I know nothing about electric diagrams so I don't understand the symbols within the sensor (B26). But I understand from what I found on Youtube that there should be at some point a change in continuity when the sensor is tilted or upside down and consequently the bike shuts down (that happens a lot with the riding I do). I've checked for continuity between the 3pins in all possible configuration with the switch in the up position, then upside down. There is no continuity regardless of the position of the sensor. Is this normal?
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