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Found 49 results

  1. My 2011 TE-250 has a sooty exhaust (black powder) both at the pipe sleeve prior to the silencer and at the discharge. Does this indicate to rich, timing off? Starts and runs great, some low end bog...
  2. Back story. Just finished complete rebuild new head, valves, crank, bearings seals, and muffler bearing. I've checked, double checked ,and checked again timing. Exhaust valves are .011 and the intake are. .007 (I know a frog hair loose). It will fire right up when towed and it will stay running. So I am assuming ( I know) the carb probably needs some help. Can you guys point me in the right direction as I am baffled by carburetor theory and function. By the way happy Mother's Day to any that are reading brad
  3. Hello all, Some time ago i made double exhaust in my DRZ 400 SM, it was modifited since year and now its completly ready. I record a movie with some explanation "how its made" and soundcheck after all - english version is in description ( i will do my best to repair it becouse my english is not too good ) . It cost me a lot of work and time to make it good and now i want to show it to the world xD So, what you think about it ?
  4. Hello, My name is Dan. I recently bought a 2001 yz125. I have been having jetting issues that i cant seem to fix. I have rebuilt the carb, tried a JD Jetting kit, and new reeds and nothing is working. I am looking for someone in the Central Jersey area who is willing to help me work on my bike and get it running strong. I have all tools necessary. I would pay $25 dollars per hour. This is completely legitimate. Feel free to text me at 908-448-9639. Located in Central New Jersey
  5. I have a DRZ400 with a 440 Athena kit, OEM Mikuni jetted (cheap brand), Yosh exhaust, 3X3 exhaust recirculation cut off, hoses plugged. DID ANYONE TRY PUT A DR650 CARBURETOR ON A DRZ???? What jetting I should use with that? I think it's a 40 mm carb
  6. Hey guys I need some input on tuning my suspension for freeride/enduro. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here's my stats for reference: Bike: 2017 KTM 500 EXC Riding weight: 170lb Tire pressure: 10psi Sag: 115mm Current Settings: -Fork: compression stock, rebound -2 clicks slower -Shock: Low speed stock, High speed stock, Rebound -2 clicks slower -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Current Issue: The other day I did a hillclimb 3rd gear dicked a couple times. When my front wheel hit the rock outcroppings the front end really spanked into the rocks, I felt really hard hits in the bars, like the rim hit the rock. Same feeling when I hit potholes rippin 4th hard, the front end really bangs hard and the bike gets hucka bucka. Anyone with some experience have any suggestions what needs to be done here?
  7. I have a 2003 xr650r. Favorite bike I've ever owned. I recently found an edelbrock carb for it and have began the install. I split the subframe from the frame to easily expose the slide to set initial idle gap. When I removed my silencer to allow for the subframe to drop enough I noticed the inside of each header is a different color. The furthest plug from the spark plug is white to light gray. The closest header to the plug is bark brown/black. Is this just to unequal burn relative to the plug position? The white is concerning to me (I dont want to be too lean obviously). I tend to stay on the rich side just to be safe and the silencer tip is dark gray color... wet concrete color haha. Any input on the edelbrock carb setup or info about the header colors is greatly appreciated. I'm around 3500-4000 ft elevation. HRC hop up kit. Factory carbs I had 68 pilot and 167 main.
  8. I've got a 2014 wr250r, 3800 original kms on it. First owner did all the mods to it and This is my first summer using this bike on the road and this is my first bike with efi. I am a novice with tuning the EJK controller and I used the recommended settings for the mods on the bike but it is getting really bad bog at high acceleration in 5th gear, shifting up solves it but when it happens I get 0 throttle response. I am looking to see if anyone has some settings I can try out on my bike or any advice on how to tune it as I think its still running rather lean. Mods: Q4 slip on (stock header), K&N Air filter, Flapper mod, Dobeck EJK Programmer Outside temperatures are right now averaging around 50 degrees and will be used primarily on road until the trails thaw out late april. Thank you!
  9. Hey guys. Ive been running into some trouble with tuning my fcr carb on my 2000 Honda xr650l. Its desmogged, de snorkled and has a uni air filter. Ive spent some tme trying to tune it but after talking with some guys i was going way to rich. I followed thier suggested tuning of 158 main, 48 pilot, NCVT needle 3rd clip from the top. After doing that the bike fired right up, way better than any of my other trys but when it heated up it would want to die. When i tried taking it back around the block it had a bad bog when i opened the throttle (ive adjusted the AP circuit properly already and tested it). It was also backfiring alot and at one point just conked out. Any insight that would help me? Thanks!
  10. I've never been able to properly adjust my 2014 DRZ400S fuel screw. I went so far as to buy a $70 motion pro spindle screw driver designed specifically to tune carbs and it cant get the job done either. I'm convinced no tool is going to solve this problem so I'm coming to you guys in search of the best, or most widely accepted, extended fuel screw on the market for my particular carb. I've heard of people using electrical butt connectors with some success. If there are any similar alternatives that work just as well please let me know.
  11. This month I want to discuss three easy ways to improve engine cooling for your dirt bike or ATV and explain why they are effective. As improvements are made to an engine that increase its power, the amount of heat the engine will create will also increase. Effectively removing heat from the engine and cooling it is very important as the power output of the engine goes up. The cooler an engine runs, the more power it can produce. There are three ways that the aftermarket attempts to improve the cooling system of a particular engine. 1. Increase flow through the cooling system. 2. Increase the cooling capacity of the radiators. 3. Increase the pressure of the cooling system. Let's dive in. 1. Increase flow through the cooling system The flow through the cooling system can be increased by installing a water pump impeller and housing designed to increase the flow rate of the coolant, such as the Boyesen Supercooler. The reason increasing the flow rate of coolant works is because the rate of heat transfer from the engine to the cooling system is directly proportional to the mass flow rate of coolant. This is thermodynamics jargon, but there are two key parts to consider. First, how much coolant is flowing, and second, at what speed the coolant is flowing. The more coolant that flows and the faster it flows will reduce the temperature difference between the point where the coolant enters into the engine and where it exits. This next part is not quite as intuitive. When the temperature difference between the inlet and outlet is reduced, the average coolant temperature is lowered. When the average coolant temperature is lowered the engine will run cooler. This is why fitting a water pump, which increases the flow of coolant through the engine, improves cooling. Boyesen SuperCooler H2O Pump Impeller 2. Increase the cooling capacity of the radiators Radiators consist of a series of tubes and fins which run from the top to the bottom of the radiator. These are often referred to as the radiator’s cores. As coolant enters the radiator it moves through the series of tubes and heat is transferred from the coolant to the fins. Air passes over the fins and heat is transferred from the fins to the air. This transfer of heat from coolant to air is how radiators reduce the temperature of the coolant. Coolant temperatures can be reduced by upgrading radiators in three ways, by increasing the frontal area of the radiators, by making the radiators thicker, or by using materials with better heat transfer properties for the cores such as those by Fluidyne. For all practical purposes, increasing the radiators’ frontal area and improving the core materials is rarely a viable option for dirt bike applications. This is because there is little room for the radiators to begin with and they are susceptible to damage, making the use of expensive core materials a risky affair. Unfortunately, both of these options are better improvements to make before resorting to increasing the thickness of the radiators. Increasing the thickness of a radiator is not as efficient of an improvement as increasing the frontal area of the radiator. In order for thicker radiators to cool more effectively than their stock counterparts, airflow past the radiators is key. When the thickness of a radiator is increased, air must travel a greater distance through the radiator before exiting. The speed the air is traveling plays a big role in determining how quickly the air heats up as it moves through the radiator. If the air is not traveling fast enough through the radiator, the air temperature will rise and equal the coolant temperature before reaching the end of the radiator. Once this happens, heat transfer stops and whatever portion of the radiator remains will not help with cooling. In order for a thicker radiator to be effective, air must flow quickly enough through it so that the exiting air temperature is at, or better yet, below the coolant temperature. In conclusion, benefits from adding thicker radiators will be more prominent in applications where speeds are relatively high. Whereas in applications where the bike is hardly moving, improved cooling may not be noticeable. Fluidyne Oversized Radiators 3. Increase the pressure of the cooling system The last alteration to the cooling system that can be made is to install a high pressure radiator cap such as CV4. As coolant temperature increases, pressure increases inside the cooling system. The radiator cap is designed to be the pressure release point in the cooling system in the event that too much pressure builds up. This can occur as a result of overheating or a blown head gasket for example. By designing the radiator cap to be the weak link in the system, other parts of the system, such as seals, don’t end up getting damaged from being over pressurized. The radiator cap features a plug and spring on its underside. The spring is designed to compress once a certain pressure is reached, at which point the plug will move upwards and uncover a pressure release hole where excess pressure will be vented. CV4 High Pressure Radiator Cap The coolant’s boiling point and ability to conduct heat are necessary factors in understanding why a high pressure radiator cap can help improve engine cooling. Water alone boils at 212°F (100°C) while a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze boils at 223°F (106.1C). Radiator cap pressure designations are usually advertised in bar, with most stock radiator caps designed to withstand pressures up to 1.1 bar (16psi). The more pressure a fluid is under, the more difficult it becomes for the fluid to vaporize, and the higher its boiling point becomes. When water is under 1.1 bar of pressure, the temperature water will boil at is 260°F (127°C) while a 50/50 antifreeze mix will boil at 271°F (133°C). By installing a radiator cap designed to withstand higher pressures, an additional increase in the coolant’s boiling point will be seen. High pressure caps are usually designed to withstand 1.3 bar (19psi) of pressure. This 0.2 bar (3psi) increase in pressure over the stock system will increase the boiling point of water or antifreeze by 8.7°F (4.83°C). This will then bring the boiling point of pure water or a 50/50 antifreeze mix to approximately 269°F (132°C) and 280°F (138°C) respectively. While this small temperature increase alone won’t do a lot for your engine, coupling a high pressure cap and using coolants with better heat transfer properties can do wonders. Antifreeze (ethylene glycol) alone is not an inherently good conductor of heat. In fact, pure antifreeze conducts heat about half as well as water, while a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water conducts heat approximately three quarters as efficiently as pure water. This means a cooling system using a 50/50 mix of antifreeze would have to flow faster than a cooling system filled with pure distilled water in order to achieve the same cooling efficiency. What this means for you is significant cooling gains can be made by using distilled water and an additive called “Water Wetter” in place of an antifreeze-water mix. Water Wetter is an additive that improves water’s “wetting” abilities (another whole subject), adds corrosion resistance, and slightly increases the boiling point of water. A high pressure radiator cap in conjunction with distilled water and Water Wetter as the coolant is by far the best route to go for high performance applications where freezing is not an issue. For applications which must still be resistant to freezing, the antifreeze-water ratio can be altered in favor of mixtures incorporating more water than antifreeze so that the cooling efficiency of the mixture is improved. Just bear in mind the freezing point of the mixture as it is thinned with water will be reduced, so you will need to pay close attention to the environment you are operating in so that the coolant is never susceptible to freezing. A frozen coolant system can ruin an engine and makes for a very bad day! I hope you enjoyed this post on three easy ways to improve your engine’s cooling. Feel free to add your engine cooling tips, tricks & questions in the comments section below.
  12. I have a 2008 YZ450F with a stock header pipe and Pro Circuit T-4 Slip-On Exhaust. I'm 99% sure the slip on is shot because its loud as hell and when I take it off and shake it it rattles. I would repack it but the screws are all stripped ect. Anyways I've gone over the carb multiple times and I've got it running pretty well. The only issue I have with the bike is that it sputters and pops around 1/2 throttle when I hold it there. When I give it full throttle from any RPM it runs great or when I give it about 3/4 throttle it spins up like a top to redline. Initially the popping and sputtering was way worse I made the situation better by moving the pilot jet up in a few sizes from a 45 (stock) to a 62. The issue has gotten way better since then but I'm not super sure what to do from here. Should I keep moving my pilot jet up in size because that's a pretty large jump right? I tried changing my needle clip position but that didn't help much if anything it just made starting it worse and little to no impact on the ride. Any input on this would be helpful. I don't want to buy other slip on. Also as for the rest of the carb I'm very sure everything else in it is what it needs to be at. I've replaced all the gaskets and O-rings cleaned all the jets, valve holes ect. fixed the accelerator pump timing. I just thinks its strange that my pilot jet size is going so far from the stock 45, but all symptoms point to the bike running lean.
  13. What is this Red Top Jet Needle without any other markings on it? When I bought my 2012 YZ250 a few months back it wasn’t long before I took the carb apart and noticed it had a JN with no markings on it. The only thing I could ID on it was that the top/Head was painted red. I tried replacing the JN with others (EW, EJ, CW) for ID reasons but nothing seem to work as good as the Red Top JN. It just seems to be the magic JN! Need to know for future reference and recommend it to anyone!!!
  14. Hey Everyone, I have just recently gotten back into riding, and I have been trying to get my sag set on my bike. I have a 2005 RMZ 450. The manual calls for 104mm of rider sag. I am a bigger guy, 6ft and 320lbs. I know the spring that is currently on the bike is stiffer than stock, but I am not sure what the rating is on it. I currently have the bike set at 120mm rider sag, and 10mm static sag. I know this means that my spring is too soft, and I need to go to a heavier spring. However, I probably wont be able to switch out the spring for awhile. So for now, what is the best sag setting with my current spring? Should I try to get rider sag closer to 104mm, or should I worry more about raising my static sag? I do mostly trail riding and I am a novice. Will messing around with adjustments on the rear shock help?
  15. Hi all, I've just come to the part in my build where I was looking for confirmation about what carb setup / jets, needle etc I need in the factory FRC39 off my E for the FMF slip-on and E- header pipe that I am using. I can't seem to gain access to the spreadsheet. Attempts come back with denied access. Has anybody else had this issue?
  16. I picked up a 2001 YZ that had the stock carb replaced with a Mikuni TM34 http://www.mikunipower.com/TM01.htm The stock jetting is vastly different from stock. The bike runs but I haven't had time to do any testing as of yet. I was hoping that someone has done this already and has some baseline jetting that worked for them.
  17. I am stumped on what to do and looking for guidance. i have a 2018 Drz400sm. put it through the first service then went through with the 3x3 mod with JD jet and full FMF pipes. followed everything the jet kit said and tuned for sea level with blue needle in 3rd position 160 main and 25 pilot and fuel screw 2 1/2 turns out. Took the bike for a spin and it ran like crap. Idle is fine . But the bike just has no power anywhere and feels like a 50cc machine. Top speed was 95kmph on the road. So following this a took the carb apart and tried more jetting combos thinking it was just running lean. No success. Still slow with no response. I put the bike back to complete stock jets and exhaust and taped over the 3x3 hole to replicate the snorkel back in. And even then it ran the exact same no power and weak response. So currently the bike is sitting back at full fmf exhaust , blue needle in 4th position, 160 main 25 pilot and 2 1/2 turns out with 3x3 airbox standard air filter. All to which it runs slow like the throttle doesn't work but every now and then it surges in power for a second and dies away. i looked into the TPS ( throttle control sensor) and it is running the correct resistance of 5 at closed throttle and 3.9 open. What could be the problem? help would be much appreciated.
  18. Finally getting this 05 KX250F up and running. It's kicking over (most times) fairly quickly. However, when it gets going it's Idling at what seems to me to be high or will die out if I start adjusting the idle adjustment. I've done the recommended jetting from 40 to 42. My question is, I know where to start the air/fuel screw but when trying to find to sweet spot for idle where do you start with the idle screw and how do you work back and forth to find a nice idle? TIA
  19. Hey all! I have a 2011 Gio X31 250cc that is losing compression gradually. It had amazing compression when it was new...but now it's becoming a tiresome task to kick-start when my electric start is down. It's burning a small amount of oil, but I don't even have to top it up between oil changes (~10 hrs. per change). I'm thinking it just needs a valve adjustment to bring the compression back up. I'm surprised how good this engine has been. I ride it hard and it keeps up with bikes 2-3x the hp and refuses to die! I don't know how to adjust the valves on a 4-stroke, let alone a Chinese one. If any of you know how to adjust the valves on a Gio X31 250cc I would appreciate the help! Do I need to pull the engine for this? Thanks
  20. So, I bought this bike a month ago. It ran in the guys garage but I never rode it, just paid the man and loaded it up and brougth it home. So it runs, but is very hard to start...won't idle, backfires, spits, I have to keep working the throttle to keep it running. The first time I started it the throttle cable/throttle tube, etc...wouldn't even return so I parked it for some clean and lube...I wasn't wearing a helmet...it was 11:00 at night, snowing, I'd never ridded a BRP before...didn't want to have to pry myself off a parked car down the street so anyway here I am today. I've had time now to clean and oil the air filter, new spark plug, drained the tank, and carburator bowl, fresh fuel, new throttle tube, lubed cables, new grips, (new AVS levers), and so I'm back to where I started...Yesterday, with a ton of effort, I finally fired it back up. I almost quit trying to kick it; but I'd then try one more time. I finally tried a shot of starting fluid, but only caused a fire in the airbox but it quickly was put out...I had the Uni Filter (freshly cleaned) out with the choke on half; and it finally came to life. I had to keep working the throtte...I quickly flipped the choke wide open and it ran better and I thought it was going to run fine...I put it in gear and ran it down the street...hoping it would just run fine...One Block, Two Blocks, Three Blocks...turn around...same thing on return...I wheelied a bit in second gear...I know I was smiling...anticipating a nicley running bike that I now could continue to dump tons of money into. But then I got back to the house and I was still pumping the throttle, and then I thought well lets see how she idles...and flatline...................... I'm thinking rebuild the carb...AGAIN...the one reciept the guy gave me was fron his local power sport store for a carb rebuild and tune for $408...labor/parts etc...I am assuming it ran good then...??? What'd ya'll do?
  21. Hey guys - I recently purchased a 1988 XR250R and took my first ride this past weekend (love it)! I'd like to check the valve clearances - I've seen conflicting info and would like someone in the know to confirm for sure. One place I read said Intake should be 0.05MM/0.002IN and Exhaust should be 0.08MM/0.003IN Another said Intake should be 0.10MM/0.004IN and Exhaust should be 0.12MM/0.005IN Can someone confirm for certain for me which of these is the right answer? Appreciate any feedback
  22. Hey blokes, I have a 2018 ktm xc250 and I am chasing better suspension settings so I don’t need to spend any money on it just yet. It has the WP AER 48 fork and the DDC monoshock with linkage. I weigh 75kg with my gear. I am running the clickers slightly softer than standard and the fork pressure on a lower setting. I ride mainly enduro with a mixture of rocky gravel tracks to sandy stuff. I’m happy with the rear of the bike but the forks seem to be aggressive in action and I jar my hands and get very tired arms towards the end of a race. Has anyone found the sweet spot to tune these things but keep them stock? And if not what is the best option without spending rediculous money? Cheers ?
  23. Anyone running a Vortex ignition on a YZ250F 2014-2018, or 450 for that matter? What advantages does it have over tuning FI/IG with the GYTR power tuner, and are there maps readily available for stock or mod and race fuel? I've messed around with the GYTR tuner on one of my bikes- 2017 YZ250F with bolt ons and VP racing fuel, but there is a lack of maps to run and I've heard there is more power to be had with the Vortex Ignition. I'm aware there are other less costly avenues to add horsepower.
  24. I own a 1998 Honda XR100R and I've noticed that fuel pours out the overflow when I revv the engine, it also doesn't require any choke to start it cold. I have the carburetor apart at the moment. I'm wondering if the fuel is related to float level and I also heard somewhere that being able to start with no choke cold means the fuel mixture is too rich? Hown do I fix these issues??
  25. Heyo! Let me start by saying hope everyone is keeping safe and healthy right now and thank you in advance for any help. Since i had some free time i decided to go ahead and try the fcr-mx 40 carb mod on my XR650L. Its been desmogged, desnorkled and has a UNI air filter, aside from that everything is stock. It came off a 2002 CRF450R ad was cleaned and rebuilt with a fresh kit by myself. I got the Nos adapter installed on the carb and than installed the carb on the bike. I followed some recommendations for tuning but could never get it to run just right. Just before i took it off i had it running well enough to get my to the gas station but it was still running a little funky. I noticed to increase in power or throttle response and when i would open the throttle i felt a minor bogging. Ok, so that brings me to now. I decided to do the Daves Carb Mod on my original carb and install it on the Xr so i can at least ride while im figuring out the FCR. I followed all the instructions, the only exception is i put a 152 main jet because that it the largest one on hand. when i went to start the bike it was having a bit of trouble, i had to hold the throttle open a little to get it started. Now here is the problem im concerned about. When it started it was puffing white smoke and the exhaust was popping a lot. It almost sounded like a to stroke. This has got my a little confused and that is why i am reaching out now. If you have any help for either of the carbs i would greatly appreciate it. Sorry for writing you a book, hope you liked it. Here is a run own of the bike and carbs: XR650l: -Uni Air Filter -Desmogged -Desnorkled Ridding in Montreal about 600-800 feet above sea level. Fcr-Mx 40mm: CRF450R Needle 5th clip position -48 Pilot -170 Main -All other jets are stock Stock CV Carb: -Cleaned and rebuilt with a fresh kit -Daves mod -55 Pilot -152 Main -Screw 2.5 turns out
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