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Showing results for tags 'tusk'.
Found 15 results
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I recently converted my DRZ-400E to a street legal by way of the tusk light kit. I am now blowing fuses. The wiring looks good, but I am wondering if I am using too much wattage for my standard 10 Amp fuse??? Any suggestions?
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Hey all, I utilize a Baja Light Kit but am looking to add a rear brake light in addition to just the turn signals which come along with the Baja kits. Theoretically, can I utilize a Tusk rear fender brake light in conjunction with the Baja system. It seems to me that I would have to employ two different switching systems on my handlebars to allow this as well as wire the rear fender brake light in a different way. Am I just a little crazy in the attempt of something like this?
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Started winter engine rebuild for my CR250. Clutch is total crap. Basket is grooved and looks like it was filed once before. Inner hub has some groves and shows signs of slippage and heat. Plates all look warped. What brands of clutch friction and steel plates are good. I have always run Hinson kits. Tusk has a competition kit (includes both plates and springs) but it’s so cheap ($65-70)I worry it’s junk. ProX ($150) is only $50 less than Hinson if I can find the Hinson kit with the friction & steel plates and springs all in one. What brands should I stay away from and what brands am I pissing money away for a name?
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I need to replace the upper shock bearing on my 08 Crf450r and figured I might as well do the linkage while I’m at it. I’ve seen videos that show a vice, sockets and torch getting the job done for most of the bearings. However I see that some sort of blind bearing puller tool is needed for the longer piece of linkage. Has anyone used the Tusk brand slide hammer bearing puller to do this? Seemed like the cheapest option, I but read reviews saying it’s not a puller designed for “linkage style needle bearings” therefore the tool may only last one or two jobs??? It’s listed for $70 on RMATVMC right now. Anyone have luck with it? If not any other recommendations? Don’t feel like spending upwards of $200 for a tool I’d use once or twice... Probably just take the linkage a shop at that point... Any info is appreciated.
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hello everyone out there name is Luke, I'm new to the forum so hopefully this is in right spot. I own a 2009 yz450f and I just put new Tusk clutch plates and heavy duty springs in it. It shifts between gears nicely and back into neutral pretty good but when I pull the clutch in and slap it into first from neutral it seems to clunk. It's not a real bad clunk, but I don't remember how smooth it was when I first got it and I'm wondering if it's common or normal for it clunk a little bit going from neutral to first? Thank you for your time have a great day peeps!
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I am converting my 2005 Honda crf250r dirt bike into a street legal supermoto but have run into a problem. I used the tusk lighting kit and upgraded stator to do the conversion. Everything is working on the bike, turn signals, computer, taillight, on/off switch, ect. except the headlight!! I simply cannot figure out how to wire it to the tusk harness. Since its a race bike, it didn't have an existing headlight. The headlight I bought is the Poliosport Halo. Included are the diagrams to the headlight and the handlebar switch. If someone could explain how to go about wiring the headlight I would really appreciate it. -
My buddy in Utah just put some 30mm handlebar risers on his TT-R230. He's happy with the results. https://www.google.com/url?hl=en&q=https://www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a%3Dss5egUMOE2wstCaZ%26u%3D/watch%3Fv%3D0Il-U11x6ac%26feature%3Dem-uploademail&source=gmail&ust=1524790132971000&usg=AFQjCNFNpFFoPkEfml1Kggj362yVFjESAQ
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Hey all, Through out the years of dreaming and envisioning the prefect dirt build (perfect to me), I have finally came across the mods that I think make this the best possible DRZ dirt mod list on the cheep. I am a young married college student so my budget is slim to none, however I'm a motorcycle addict. Due to my tight budget and big imagination I had to do some selective purchases to revamp my 2005 DRZ-S. When I bought the bike it was pretty much bone stock, except the seller did hook it up with 3x3 mod, correct jetting, and yoshi RS3 full system. While I did love the bike in its 'almost' natural form, the 320lb scale weight and spongy trail performance was quickly hindering my off road capabilities. In short, I wanted to drop some pounds, give her a face lift and tune the suspension to my taste. What I ended up with was exactly what I had envisioned, and I did it on the cheep. What I want to do here is throw down a list of all the parts I used to make my bike lighter on the scale, prettier, and all around better. The mods I did made a night and day difference with off road performance, it sits just a hair over 300lbs now and had no problem keeping up on hard trails, single track, and wicked hill climbs. Starting from the top down and front to back: Pro Taper 7/8 CR high bend (RMATVMC) $62 BikeMaster 7/8 bar risers (amazon) $28 Clutch+Brake Pivot Levers CNC (eBay) $20 Fly Racing hand guards (amazon) $46 Odi ruffian grips (RMATVMC) $9 Winllyat Motorcycle Turn Signals (amazon) $18 (4 pack) GOOFIT Universal 12V 35w (amazon) $26 Acerbis Front Fender 02 Yellow - 2007 SUZUKI RM250 (RMATVMC) $20 Suzuki gel seat (amazon) $180 Primary Drive 520 Chain (RMATVMC) $43 Tusk LED brake light (RMATVMC) $29 Kenda Trackmaster set (RMATVMC) $107 120/100-18 Rear 80/100-21 Front Let me know what y'all think of this look and if you have done anything similar. The sky is the limit (and the pocket book) with these bikes so post your images and lets see what you got!
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Hi Guys. I bought this TUSK tach to install in my 2018 YAMAHA YZ 250X: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-tach-hour-meter-p Does anyone know how I should configure properly? Depending on the option set, the idle values are completely different! Please, see the pic attached. Which setting should I use? "1P1r", "1P2r" or "2P1r"? Remembering that my 250X has no battery or headlight! Thanks to all for help!
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Had my bike tapped out on pavement then she locked right up, held the clutch, came to a stop, loaded her up, top end looks perfect. Trying to find the next best bottom end to OEM standards.. I didn’t expect anything of this kind of nature but here we are and I believe it’s only the bottom bearing on my rod, Hope I can get some suggestions on getting parts and also is there any suggestions for tools (crankcase splitter, flywheel puller, bearing and seal driver) as I’m on my way to Edmonton tomorrow for a break the bank kind of day, any opinions are greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!!
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I purchased a set of tusk impact wheels from ebay (a reputable seller) for my 2001 yz250. HOWEVER. after installing tubliss and a brand new tire i go to install the wheel and BEHOLD!!!! the bearings on the new tusk wheel are not the correct size for the axle of the yz. I called RMATV and confirmed that there has not been a wheel compatable with an 01yz250 made........ frustrating considering the $ spent so far. looking at the images below... does anyone think/know of a solution? id prefer to swap out the bearings in the tusk wheels for ones that will work... instead of sending the new wheels back.
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My battery is dead and I can't seam to charge it up. I've got this awesome 300 XC 2015 2 Stroke which has a two Kawell LED lights ( I think they are the 18 Watt version that pull 32 volts). It has the stock stator and voltage regulator. It has a Tusk TLP7ZS Lithium Ion battery which is dead and won't charge. It died out in Green River, UT area last weekend and I kick started the bike for a few days which was no big deal, but I'd like to get a functioning light and have the E start work if I'm going to haul all that E start stuff around. I recently installed a Trailtech computer on the bike and hooked it up to the battery so I could monitor the voltage. At one point while I was riding I watched the voltage drop but I can't say for sure what this looked like because we were riding great trails and that's what I was paying attention to. I unhooked the computer for the last two days of the trip to see if there was a short and the battery might charge off the stator. The first thing I checked was the main fuse near the battery and it was in good shape. It got pretty cold on this trip, under 30 degrees at night and at one point I left the light turned on and likely drained the battery. The battery had not been maintained over the winter but the bike had been ridden a few times so in theory the Lithium Ion battery should have been charged up before the Green River trip. It's likely the battery got really run down during this process due to my own negligence. I'm thinking of cleaning the ground connection and replacing the battery with the stock KTM lithium Ion and seeing what happens. I can look for other obvious shorts around the heat sensor and the rest of the electrical during this process. Based off what I've shared here 1. Are there other issues I should be looking for 2. Is the stock stator even powerful enough to handle 2 18Watt LED's? 3. What's the best way to charge and maintain a Lithium Ion battery if I do buy a new one, do I need a special charger, I looked at the Shorai ones but don't want to drop coin if I don't have to. Thanks for the help, I want to avoid wasting money on batteries if possible and would like to learn how to solve this problem myself.
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Will be used with soft luggage to support the extra weight. I understand this can be an issue with the gas tank subframe. Thanks, Mike
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I was looking at purchasing the Tusk D-Flex shields with the integrated turn signals. My XR400 already has Acerbis Rally Pro-X hand-guards on it. i was looking for a little more coverage of air deflection and the added bright turn signal. I found it is cheaper to just buy the shields and turn signals instead of the whole kit. I was just wondering if they would mount right up or if i would have to drill holes. I was wondering if anyone else had put different shields on their hand-guards bars. Any help would be appreciated.
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In case you haven't seen the recurrence of woods riders destroying their wrists while riding with wrap around handguards here's a photo of a member who did such. Now, since we know this can happen with wrap arounds, what are the consequences of flag style? How often, if it all, do users smash their fingers? What's the best pair of flag style handguards, for woods specifically. DirtbikeChannel on youtube said that the Cycra rebounds are a lot stiffer than most flag style, is that true? What are some stiffer style flag hand guards looking to avoid breaking my wrists and fingers.
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