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Found 16 results

  1. Has anyone installed and used a Checkpoint impeller? I see dirt rider had an article about them and I've been curious about them. I've been having overheating problems recently and after spending well over $200 on brand new radiators I've discovered the radiators weren't the problem. So I bought new piston rings since they were out of spec (supposed to be like .15 and they were .5) and then thought about buying one of these aluminum impellers to help the problem instead of keeping the flimsy plastic one. I've read mixed reviews about them. Has anyone had any luck with them or is it basically just paying for the same overheating problems to happen?
  2. OK here goes... Picked up an 04 200 EXC few months back, needed some work to say the least, wont go into detail of all the things i've fixed on the bike just the current and most present issue I cant seem to fix... it is smoking IE blue smoke/lots of splooge to the point that at the end of a few hour's ride, it's out the tail pipe, running down the back and dripping onto the swing arm/rear break caliper and blue smoking quite a bit. When I first got it, it smoked more and smelled like shit. So first things first went to the carb, I live on the Oregon coast (elevation/temp reference) it's old dirty/stained but inside looks good, came with jetting pilot-45, main-178 needle: no idea what brand guessing stock in the 3rd clip, adjusted the float height due to it leaking gas when bike was upright no tilt with the gas on, Bought JD jet kit and running pilot-45, Main-185 and Needle is blue 3rd clip (JD's recommend specs for my bike @ my attitude). I have also replaced my Inner crankcase seal twice (First time I thought I messed up the O-ring so redid to make sure). I've rebuilt the top end/new piston (same thing) cleaned the PV, NOTE HERE that the PV has some issues, it seems to work fine but the screw that goes on top of the cylinder, down into the PV/flap would not come out preventing me from removing the flap to clean it, however it move's/ function's correctly, and has minimum clearance on both sides. One of the PV cover bolts that also works at the exhaust spring holder, was over torqued at some point (impact driver prob), or a result in a hard impact, the hole the bolt goes into is flailed/jared open a bit, not bad, not in the way of any function/ PV Gearing/hinge, it is not needed for that area to be air tight as their is also a breather that goes out of the PV so will not result in an "air leak" or loss in Top end PSI.... anyway... it's still smoking.... quite a bit.. now the bike itself rides fine I feel, the carb does puke gas when tilted over slightly/ hard to start (kick start) after flooded (like all bikes tho) I don't have any stalling/low idle issues outside of user error on clutch control. Honestly outside of it smoking as much as it does I would think nothing is wrong with it.. I have also tried raising the needle Clip to 2nd clip and it changed nothing at all, not even feel of the bike/response and have a new Spark plug I have yet to put on the bike. I have also "compromised" the crankcase Gasket (new one in the mail) while I was putting the Crankcase back on but that should do nothing with the exhaust just a little gear oil leak not relevant but throwing it out there. So I am at a loss... I've been toying with the idea of getting a Lectron carb... However... would hate to drop $400~$500 and the issue still persist, if it's a jetting/carb/float issue that would fix it and improve MPH/fuel consumption Or something with the PV? but I don't see the PV causing that much smoke/sploogee... I've ridden the bike normally/hard and nothing's happened but I don't want to keep pushing it and possibly clip the bike. Any ideas? "Oh help me 2 stroke community you're my only hope"
  3. Hey all, im shopping for my first two stroke. I’m a woods rider and I’ve found what looks like a great deal on an 250 sx. Changes in bike thus far are lower gearing on chain and softer spring on shock, bark busters and handlebar risers. I will certainly need an xc gas tank and probably work on forks. Anything else I can/should do to make this single track worthy?
  4. Hey guys/girls, I'm looking at buying a new KTM and don't want to spend the money without riding one first. I'm on the fence between the 250 and 300xc models. I race c class in local hare scrambles and will be racing my first GNCC (Camp Coker) in a few weeks (I'm pretty slow btw). I love casual trail riding as well. My current bike is an 09 200xc. My riding buddy has a 2020 300 husky and It is an absolute dream to ride, but at 170lbs wet I'm not sure I wouldn't be just as happy with a 250 and have less felt weight in the single tracks. I'm always looking for new people to ride with and would enjoy meeting up with someone at a local compound. We have a pretty awesome private 6mile loop in Sumter, SC also. Its tough to spend 10k on something without giving it a test ride... Hit me up if anyone's interested, KTM or not!!
  5. I have been on the hunt for a clean 05-07 CR125 for some time now and stumbled across one near my home. Asking price is $3500 and the bike is damn near showroom CLEAN. Seller claims it has about 15 hours on it and looking at it I believe him. Completely stock other then a PC pipe and silencer and some Flexx bars. The highest dealer value I saw in either KBB or NADA is $2200 but I will admit that sounds low for the condition of the bike. I am thinking $3000 tops. Am I crazy or does the $3500 asking price for an 11 year old 125 sound a bit out there?
  6. Hello, I'm in need of a bit of help with my 1986 cr250r forks I'm trying to rebuild. I've taken off the fork seals and the rings that go after them. I've unbolted the drain, the top spring cap, and the dampening rod bolt at the bottom. Can someone please tell me what else I am missing to take them all apart?
  7. Having issues with clutch engaging. Wheel still grabs withe clutch engaged. Step 1: checked lever. Ok Step 2:checked cable. Ok Step 3: opened housing to clutch cable engaged by hand...still locks up. Step 4: replaced entire clutch assembly. Discs,pads,basket,springs. Still having exact same issue.
  8. I did it. Finally quit beating around the bush and decided to go for it. Now the proud owner of a bran-USED 2014 KTM 350 XC-F. Bought it today, only had the chance to ride it down the road and back and I think I’m in for a treat. Previously had a 250 XC that I bought used November of 2016. Kept buying parts and constantly working on it to get it where I want it, but with out any luck so I decided to go back on the four stroke route. Anyone have any recommendations for aftermarket on it? It already has a lot including a skid plate, boyesen super cooler water pump, hand guards, rear brake rotor guard, radiator braces, mouse bibs in the tires, brand new Dunlop MX 3 S tires, radiator fan, shorai lithium battery, side grab bar, and ktm silicone hoses.
  9. Hi guys, probably a stupid question here, but I figure you can never be too safe. I have some Motorex 15w-50 from my 2010 KTM 250 XC (which I sold) and I was wondering if it would be okay to run in my 2014 KTM 350 XC-F which calls for Motorex 10w-50? What would be the side effects of running a 15w-50 instead of a 10w-50? Also, if you have any suggestions of good oil to run, please feel free to recommend it and give your reasons why. Thanks guys. (Attached is my 350)
  10. Hi all, need to flush out a thirty yr old tank that’s got propably thirty years of grit. Not sure what to use; scared of separating oil as it’s a two stroke.
  11. As I was inspecting my new-to-me bike that I just purchased, I noticed there is a grove on the back side of my front brake rotor that goes completely around it, and you can feel it with your finger nail. I have noticed some poor performance, but I figured it was because of the new pads that the previous owner installed just before I bought it hadn't seated yet. However, I've ridden a couple times and it doesn't seem to get much better, if any better at all. Is that enough to explain why when I pull in the brake as hard as I can, it only slows me down a little, instead of going into a stoppie and over the bars (as I wish it would)? Should I look into buying a brand new rotor? I have no pictures of it, I'll try to post some when I can.
  12. Hello everyone! I am new to the forum and this is my first post. I would like to ask for some advice regarding some upcoming motorcycle purchases. My parents are in the process of purchasing a mountain cabin here in Colorado (Redfeather lakes) some time soon. The cabin is surrounded by dirt roads and trails so they intend to buy several dirt bikes for me as well as my younger brother and sister to put around on while we are staying up there. I would like to ask for some advice/ suggestions regarding which motorcycles would be the best choice for me (my younger siblings as well). So, I have a few years of dirtbike-riding experience on a crf100, but that is it. I haven't ridden one in a long time though I do have a sport bike which I ride a lot now. I have an affinity for two-strokes and would love to pick one up. There are several nice older ktm 300 exc's on craigslist for around 3,000 dollars , as well as several yz250s in a simlar price range. I would love to have the ktm, but I am afraid that the maintenance cost will be very high despite it being a two stroke. The yz is a motocross bike but I hear that they can work as a trail bike. There is even one nice looking kdx 220 that I have my eye on (My friend says that its the greatest trail bike ever made. Is that true?). Would any of those be preferable to another, and come someone touch on the maintenance costs of those bikes (replacing top ends and such?)? There is always the option of a four stroke as well and I guess there are a lot more options there, though as i said I would prefer a two stroke. I saw a few nice xr400s, some crf450x's (is that overkill?), a REALLY nice klx 300 (my dad had one of these), some others also. Basically, can someone chime in on what would be the best bike to get? Does this all just boil down to preference? Basically I am just looking for a reliable, fairly powerful bike that I could pick up for a few grand and is preferably 2 stroke but doesn't have to be. Thanks!
  13. Hey guys, I was hoping some of you could help me out. Recently my bike (2010 KTM 250 XC) started overheating a lot. As soon as it got up to temperature it would start peeing coolant out of the overflow tube. I changed out the stock 1.8 radiator cap for a CV4 2.0 radiator cap. Still continued to pee it out. I went through and checked the head and cylinder to see if they were warped. They are not and I also changed the base gaskets and head gaskets. Still continued to pee out. I bought and swapped out new over-sized radiators, new silicone hoses, and a new billet aluminum water pump impeller. Flushed the system and filled it with Engine Ice antifreeze at about 1/4" above the fins. It still continues to pee out. I've heard different things about how the reeds could be causing it and also my jetting could. My jetting is set up perfectly for my weather and where I ride, and my reeds looked fine on inspection. The only thing I have not checked is my clutch pack. It has some chatter and when the bike is cold it shifts pretty hardly into first gear on the first initial take off. In fact it shifts so hard it lurches forward and wants to die and I have to give it a little throttle or it will. (Also, if the bike is in gear on the trail and I pull in the clutch and try to hit the e-start the clutch doesn't engage until I give it a little throttle). I run what the manual recommends for oil (Motorex 15w-50) and at the right amount. I also changed it about 2 hours ago. Since that is the only part of this bike I haven't really looked at I was just wondering since all of that other stuff didn't seem to work, could my clutch be causing the overheating issue?
  14. I'm caught between a rock and a hard place. My 2010 KTM 250 XC won't stop peeing coolant out of the overflow tube. I've used 3 different radiator caps (two of the oem 1.8 bar caps and one CV4 2.0 bar) and it still continues to pee coolant as soon as the bike starts up. I just recently bought and installed brand new radiators [GPI on eBay for $88 (the seem fine just the welds are a bit crappy and you can see inside of the tubes where the metal from the welds drooped down but there are no blocks)] and silicone hoses (profactory hoses) thinking they were the problem since the old radiators were bent in like bananas. To my dismay that was apparently not the issue. I've had everything apart and looked at. Has brand new base gaskets, head gaskets, radiators, and radiator hoses. I've bled the radiators like the manual says and there are no bubbles like air leaking into the system or being in the system. The jetting is also perfect. The only thing I haven't changed out is the oem impeller in the water pump but it looks to be in great condition. Any ideas on how I can fix this problem before it gets worse? Also, has anyone else had this problem and figured out how to fix it? I ride it in mostly tight 0-10 mph trails and also some 10-20 mph trails.
  15. So my bike won't start and idle. It kicks over and tries to start but then bogs out and dies, even when giving it throttle. I noticed after it dies air is rushing out of the power valve vent hose, like alot of air... never did that until today. What the hell is going on? The air rushes out for about 3 seconds after bike dies. It must be compression getting through somehow but I'm not very familiar with how the power valve works. I'm gonna tear into it eventually but has this happened to anyone else and how do I fix it?
  16. So I just got a brand new bike and I bought new exhaust ended up not liking the exhaust I bought and decided to go stock, The only thing I miss is the way my fmf factory fatty looked, my stock pipe is painted flat black from the factory and I was wondering if anyone had some tips or tutorial on different ways to re-finish my pipe. Thanks Walker.
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