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Found 94 results

  1. Hi all I have a ktm 300 exc 2017, didn’t make any mods, and run it about 20 hours. Last two rides I noticed a knocking sound coming from the engine, that stops on high revs. I have checked all the common causes (that I know of): loss parts and clutch, both are OK. I suspect that the problem is related to a jetting issue, maybe a lean mixture, or maybe it is related to detonation. Did someone encounter this issue? Any ideas? Your help please.
  2. RiDiculous

    Street Legal KDX

    I own a 2002 KDX 220R. I'd like to see if I can make it street legal because it'd save me a lot of money. I live in California and since it's a 2002 model, I think I can do this. I just need to know what I'd need to make it street legal, aside from a spark arrestor.
  3. Hello everyone, I have a 1974 Yamaha gt-mx 80cc and recently replaced the crank oil seal and doing so I had to remove the clutch basket and plates. Reinstalling the clutch and bolting it back together with the gasket, I fired her up and threw her into first gear and nothing... There was no acceleration when revving the throttle. Any advice on what it may be, I have tried adjusting the throttle cable but nothing changes and there is no screw/bolt in the clutch for adjusting like other dirtbikes might have. p.s. the clutch and acceleration were working before I took it apart Thanks in advance
  4. I am 5'5/5'6 134 pounds and 14 years old and am looking to get a new bike. I ride trails and might do some racing. I am coming off a klx140l and have outgrow the bike (power and size). I am looking at yz/kx/rm 125 and kx 100. Lots of riders I know are saying get the 125 and grow into it. But it sounds like a lot of bike. Any suggestions on which bike I should get?
  5. I have just put a new transmission in a 2005 kx85, and everything spins freely while the case bolts arent tightened, but as soon as i tighten the case bolts the transmission and crank suddenly become very stiff and hard to move, what could be causing this?
  6. Brendan Taylor

    CR80RB Please Help

    I found this screw in my Cylinder, and I'm not sure what it is or what it's for. It's a 2001 CR80RB anyone know what it is? It's just a random screw in the side of the cylinder and i dont want to mess with it until im sure what it is.'
  7. Ok so heres my shot at a bad ass engine conversion and as usual i need a wimter project. Any help or input is appreciated. So i have a rolling chassis 1983 kx80. All the plastics and suspension are in fair condition. I recently purchased a 1992 y250 frankenstein bike. My plan is to stuff the yz250 engine into the kx80 frame and create the kids dream bike. I have a couple yz250 frames in which i am going to cut off the cradle and weld it onto the kx80 frame so it will accept the centerline exhaust. Also the original kx80 frame wouldnt fit the yz250 engine. I will fabricate all new motor mounts except the rear swingarm/motor mount. I will use the kx80 swingarm bolt and get a sleeve fabricated for the yz250 engine to accept the kx80 swingarm bolt. Will need spacers fabricated to align the drivechain. I will get a custom 520 rear sprocket for the kx80(gearing undecided). Will have detailed pics tonight
  8. 83 yz250

    PLEASE HELP 1983 YZ250

    hey there I've got a 1983 yamaha yz250. this is my first bike and I'm the third owner. the second owner i bought it off off believes the engine was rebuit because the motor pulls stong he says. by the time i pulled up to his house the bike wouldnt start and he said the carb is really clogged up and its been sitting for 8 months. i managed to get him down pretty low so i bought it. $460 CAD so this is the problem. i got my friend to clean the carb since he knows how and it took him about an hour. we then put it back together. we completely drained the fule and went and got premium fuel and i think we used a 40:1 mix ratio. we also flushed the coolant and replaced that with new coolant. we then tried starting thr bike and it didnt start. we thought maybe the engine was flooded so we took out the spark plug and it was wet. sl we dried out the engine and then tried starting it again. it started after about 30 or 40 kicks while holding full throttle. at this point it was about 9pm and we were tired. we drove it around in first gear killed the bike and gave it two kicks and it started up. we then shut off the fuel while and let the bike shut off so we dont flood the engine again. a week later we go to work on it again cause the idle wasn't the best so we cleaned the carb completely, put it back on and it took about 30 mins of me and my friend taking turns kicking the bike to start it up. once it started up we let it warm up gave it a few revs amd then went onto drive it. im new at dirtbiking so i stalled it. gave it two kicks right away and it started we drove it on my street in first gear only and brought the bike back. i stalled it coming to a stop but then gave it 1 kick right away and it started up right away. i then let it idle for a few mins then i stalled trying to move the bike. i was talking to my friend for about 1 minute and kicked it again and it didnt start. we had to spend another 30 minutes kicking it to start it again. and once we started it we did the same thing. drove it then killed the engine and gave it two kicks right away and it started. after that we killed it waited 1 minute and it wont start again. so basically once the bike is started after an exhausting amount of kicks. u cant shut it off for more than one minute or it won't start again... yes the bike has compression. brand new fuel. brand new spark plug i got it the same day it took alot of kicks to start it. also we tried starting it with the air filter off incase it was dirty but its pretty clean. any help at all will be appreciated and i hope u guys can help me fix this! thanks for your time
  9. Paul Olesen

    How to Separate Your Crankcases The Right Way

    “Splitting the cases” is often referred to as a daunting or undesirable task, but if you are well prepared and properly equipped then it can be a straightforward job. To alleviate any concerns you may have with the task, I want to discuss best practices and share some tips that you may find useful when dealing with crank bearings that utilize an interference fit with the crankshaft. We’ll get started by discussing preparatory items and work through to completing the job. Preparation I always recommend prepping for crankcase separation by thoroughly reviewing the service manual. This is important in case any special instructions are present, such as guidance on how the crankcases should be positioned. Typically, it is advantageous to lift one half off the other in a certain orientation due to the way the gearbox or other components are installed. Secondly, a review of the manual may highlight any specific hardware that must be removed prior to attempting to split the cases. From a tools standpoint, a crankcase splitter tool is a worthy investment because it will help ensure the job goes smoothly. Case splitters are relatively inexpensive and widely available. Alternatively, for the budget conscious or lesser prepared, a case splitter is something that could be fabricated. Whether buying or making, ensure you pick up a model with a protective end cap for the crankshaft or fabricate one. We’ll discuss the end cap later. The other tools required are all fairly standard and include your typical sockets, wrenches, and soft mallets. Wooden blocks or other soft semi-malleable spacers should be selected which level and raise the crankcases off the tabletop. This allows the cases to be positioned so that the split line between the cases lies horizontally and subsequent splitting can be done vertically. This will help ensure evenness of separation as well as reduce the likelihood of components falling out of the cases unexpectedly. As much as shortcuts are desirable, just about everything external to the cases must be removed in order to successfully split the cases. Clutch, stator, crank gear, etc. must be removed prior to case splitting. Your service manual will provide further clarity as to what needs to come off. Technique & Tips Once you’re ready to separate the cases, the first thing we’ll need to do is remove all the crankcase bolts. The crankcase bolts should be removed via any prescribed patterns outlined in the service manual. Since the crankcase bolts are typically several different lengths, ensuring the location of each bolt is well documented is extremely important. As I discussed in my post on keeping track of bolts, the cardboard gasket method or any other you find suitable should be utilized so that the reassembly process is straightforward later on. After the crankcase bolts have been removed, the crankcases should be inspected one final time to ensure no hardware that should have been removed prior is hitchhiking. Trust me, trying to separate cases only to find there is one last forgotten bolt is quite frustrating! Once you’re confident all the necessary hardware has been removed, position the cases on the blocks with the correct half facing up. Next, install the protective cap over the crankshaft. I advise using the cap whether you own a two or four-stroke simply because in both cases it helps preserve the end of the crankshaft. This is of particular importance on four-stroke engines that utilize an oil feed that passes through the crank. Once the crank end is protected, proceed to install the crankcase splitter. Select threaded holes that are as close to equispaced from one another as possible to promote uniform loading of the case splitter. When threading the case splitter studs into the crankcase, make sure you engage at least 1.5 times the diameter of the stud diameter. For example, if the stud is 6mm in diameter make sure at least 9mm of thread engagement length is achieved. This will help ensure the threads are not stripped when you attempt to separate the crankcases. With the crankcase splitter installed begin tensioning the main bolt against the end of the protective cap. Proceed to tighten the bolt until the crankcases begin to separate about a 1/16” (1.5mm). Once separation has occurred, make sure that separation is even all the way around the cases. Due to the way the case splitter loads the cases, the area near the output sprocket tends to lag. Case separation needs to be even so that the dowel pins used to pair the cases together don’t bind. If the output sprocket end of the cases hasn’t separated, use a soft rubber or plastic mallet to gently tap in that area. Tap carefully and only on case areas that appear sturdy. Once you’ve created an even gap, proceed to tension the splitter bolt, tap when necessary, and fully remove the crankcase. Upon separation, make sure that no gearbox components, such as washers, have stuck to the case. What I’ve described is the ideal sequence of events for a successful case separation, however, occasionally the cases won’t be as cooperative. In the past, I’ve had to deal with crankcases where moisture has found its way into the dowel pin bores and corroded the dowel pins. This effectively seizes the dowel pins in their bores and makes the separation job more challenging. If the crankcases are being resilient to separation, stuck dowel pins may be a potential problem. Most dowel pins are located opposite one another and their exact position can often be referenced in the service manual or in the crankcase section of part microfiches. Once the location of the dowel pins has been confirmed, a torch can be used to lightly heat the dowel pin areas. Heat will expand the metal surrounding the dowel pin and aid in freeing up the stuck pin bore. Usually, a few careful rounds of heat, tension on the splitter, and well-placed tapping is enough to free up the pesky cases and get them separated. Alternatively, if the heat does not help, applying a penetrant to the pin bore areas is another option that may help free things up. If you find yourself dealing with stuck cases, the key is to be patient and think through all your options. In these types of situations, most mistakes are avoidable and are usually the result of rushed decisions. Once the cases have been separated, the remaining tasks of removing the gearbox and pushing the crank out of the remaining case half can commence. I hope you’ve enjoyed this write up on crankcase separation and that it makes you more prepared for the job. If you’ve got additional crankcase separation tips that you want to share, please leave a comment below. For additional engine building information, whether two or four-stroke, check out my engine building handbooks. Each handbook is offered in print or digital form, contains over 250 color pictures, detailed instruction from start to finish on full rebuilds, and contains a wealth of information pertaining to diagnostic testing and precision measuring. Thanks and have a great week! -Paul
  10. MotoXRacer_19

    AMA Numbers

    Does anyone know how to, or if you can, change your AMA number? The race number, not the full thing.
  11. In today's post, I'm very excited to share details about my new book,The Two Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook. As with all of my blogs and technical resources, my goal has been to bring riders clear and concise technical information. My two-stroke book exemplifies this and puts nearly 300 pages of engine building knowledge at your fingertips. I wroteThe Two Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook to be an all-encompassing guide on engine building. From the moment there is doubt about the engine's overall condition to the time the rebuilt engine is broken in, I give you a step-by-step guide to help you work towards a successful build. My aim was to create a definitive resource that hit on all the relevant topics you'll encounter as you proceed through an engine build and take any guesswork out of the equation. Throughout the book, engineering knowledge and practical experience are fused together to detail the how and why behind the way procedures are performed, parts are designed, and engine performance is affected. This is the most important and valuable aspect of the book, and it's something you won't find in a service manual. The book doesn't just tell you to bolt part A to part B, it teaches and explains the correct way assembly procedures should be performed and why it is necessary to do so. It also explains the intricate relationship between parts, where to look for wear patterns, and shows examples of worn and damaged components. If you're interested in making modifications to your engine or if you're curious about how certain modifications affect performance, I wrote an entire chapter dedicated to the subject. Within this chapter a discussion on how performance parts such as expansion chambers, port timing modifications, and cylinder heads alter overall engine performance is included and helpful suggestions are provided to aid you in choosing the correct components for your build, depending on your specific riding needs. If you have a thirst to learn more about how your engine works and a desire to correctly disassemble or assemble an engine to professional standards, you will benefit greatly from this book. Whether a complete beginner or a seasoned builder, with nearly 300 pages and 250 images worth of information, there is fresh and useful knowledge for everyone. There is also valuable material packed into this handbook that doesn't just pertain to the act of building the engine. I include instruction on diagnosing engine problems, sourcing and determining which parts to replace, using precision measuring tools, setting up your workshop, and additional tests and inspections that should be performed when preparing racing engines. If you just want to build your engine back up to stock spec, you are covered. If you want to go the extra mile and prepare a racing engine, you are also covered. In a way, this book allows you to choose your own ending by giving you all the tools and knowledge you need to complete your build at whatever level you decide. As a way to thank you for your support, we're offering TT members 15% off during a special TT pre-sale which runs from now until December 5th (when the book officially launches). Simply follow this link to learn more and order: ThumperTalk Pre-Sale Thanks again for all your support as we've grown DIY Moto Fix from an idea to a thriving community of riders who are passionate about making their machines perform better through their own hard work. Thanks for reading and have a great week. -Paul
  12. Hey guys I just bought a bike last night. So the seller said the bike will turn on but then die. We didn't try it because it was really late at night and it was raining (seat was wet). But he said if you bump start it, it will turn on and ride. So what do you think the problem is? I just want to make sure it runs... I probably won't be able to bump start it till Saturday (rain)... It's a four stroke, and I know absolutely nothing about them. Thanks.
  13. Ghent's05KDX200

    Transmission Oil

    My manual says to run oil 10w-30 or 10w-40. What brand makes the best clutch oil for a two stroke? What oil do you guys and girls run in your Two stroke dirt bikes? any particular ones to stay away from? Also, semi synthetic, full synthetic, or non synthetic?
  14. PRIOR INFO Hey all, before i start i want to introduce some prior info in case it helps you guys give me some feedback. I'm a south Florida sand track rider that currently rides a 2015 CRF150RB and would probably classify as a 85cc B rider. I learned to ride on this bike and I still feel it has plenty of room for me to get better on and still has plenty of power left for me to use, i usually only top out 4th gear occasionally with a 56T rear sprocket. The reason i'm considering a 125 within the next year or so is because i'm 5'7" and growing and about 130 pounds and soon i wont fit on this bike. I figured that a 125 two stroke would be perfect since i'm still able to find power with this bike and i ride sand a lot, also so i don't get lazy . ACTUAL QUESTION Currently I'm set on a CR125R because i'm just a Honda guy and from what i've heard these days if your getting a Japanese bike is pick your favorite color and ride it because most of us don't push the bikes to the limit anyway. In my area I see only 1998's 2001's and 2004's. I don't know much about the year history but i heard there were weak engines from 01-04 and the aluminum frames sucked from 99-04. You guys have any insight? The 04's look the best around here but i'm not sure they perform the best.
  15. Let me start off saying I LOVE my 08 CRF450. It performs close to flawless...is in like new condition...zero complaints. So no real reason to replace it. With all the updates to the new Husky TC250 and KTM 250SX I am considering making the switch back to 2strokes. Just trying to gauge if I am just hyping myself up a bit over the new 2strokes or if it is worth considerong selling the 450 and picking up a new TC250. I mainly just ride on practice tracks for fun. I dont race serious and may run 1-2 per year. Just want to get some thoughts or if anyone already switched to a new 2stroke. I know it's a bit easy to hype yourself up when you want something.
  16. So I am currently working on a 1997 CR125 and plan to make a full race build on it. But I have been noticing that there are not very many aftermarket parts the biggest being the plastics and graphics for it due to the frame,tank,sub frame, etc. I was wondering if its possible to put that engine into a CR125 frame anywhere from 98-07 and how hard that would be to do. I have a welder but I am not confident enough to weld new motor mounts. If you guys could help me out with this that would be great.
  17. QuinnEXC

    Float troubles

    After doing some adjusting to my float, my 2 stroke has started running a lot better than before but started acting a little bit funny. First, It's a little bit of a pain to start. Then, The idle feels low and it dies if not given gas. Also, if I'm on the clutch while coasting it tends to die. Lastly, bottom and mid power feel pretty good, but the top end power feels weak. Whenever I stop it pours a little gas out of the vent hoses. Is my problem still my float? If so, how do I adjust to fix this?
  18. braaap721

    CR250 clutch not working

    Hey all, I'm new to this forum. I bought a 2001 CR250 a couple weeks ago, and it worked great. I bought a new clutch lever off of ebay and installed it. The lever must have been a wrong one, because I no longer had any free play. The lever was clamped tight against the perch, and even after I loosened it all the way (from both adjustment points) it would not loosen up. I took it off and installed the stock lever again, but there is now almost no free play again. The hand adjusted one is almost as far as it goes, and the other one is adjusted as far as it goes. I have enough free play, but I can't loosen it out any more. Also, since putting the stock lever back on, when I try to start the bike in first gear (with the clutch lever pulled all the way in) the bike pulls forwards fairly hard. Why does it do this?? I don't get why it worked perfectly before, but now it's all wack. Any help is appreciated.
  19. Matt Myszka

    2T 150 or 250!?!

    Hey guys, I'm new to thumper, but I was hoping I could find someone who could help me. HERES THE DEAL! I've been riding 4 strokes for about 7 years now, but the 2T world has recently gotten my attention! I currently ride a 2006 YZ250F. (Fully rebuilt by myself;). I ride the piss out of it and I feel like it's missing something. I've tried shaking things up like riding different terrain(sand dunes,Rocks,etc.) I thought maybe I would try a 450, I got to ride my buddies CRF450X. lol that bike humbled me. It was way to high and It felt a LOT heavier. I crossed out the 450 bc I think it would be a waste and I wouldn't be able to push the bike to its limits. With that being said I'm trying to decide between (2017 Ktm 150 sx, 2017 Ktm 250sx, and 2017 YZ250 and/or the X model). Here's me.. I'm roughly 5'8" 175-185lbs. I lift 5-6 days a week. I enjoy riding anything and everything as long as I get to ride.
  20. Cole Way

    Boyesen pro reeds install

    I was looking to replace the old boyesen power reeds on my 01 cr250, so I ordered some boyesen pro reeds for it. But these ones have 3 holes in the lower petals where the cage has 2 larger holes. Is there any way to make these work or should I send them back? Can I modify the cage without &%$#@!ing it all up? Sent from my SM-G900F using ThumperTalk mobile app
  21. Trevor gray

    KTM 250 MXC?

    I have been riding dirt bikes for a little less than a year and I always ride trails and enduro. I have a crf250x right now and want to get a two stroke to go with it, should I get a Ktm 250 mxc? Or should i go with a yz 250 or cr 250? I've heard good and bad things about all of these bikes, and I need some help making a decision. I am going to look at this bike soon: https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/mcy/d/2000-ktm-250-mxc/6552466361.html. I don't know if it is a good deal or not. Please help.
  22. I got a new to me 2001 yz 250 which has a healthy motor and jetted properly for my elevation. The problem I'm having is when I'm in gear riding and push in the clutch the rpms don't drop to idle but if I give it gas it doesn't slip and revs freely. I can start the bike in gear fine and looked at my clutch already which has plenty of life left and my clutch basket is in good condition to. I adjusted my clutch freeplay which was already in spec. It has aftermarket clutch lever and I maxed it out as far as it can go outwards but the rpms still wont drop to idle when im trying to coast in gear. Another weird thing is if I'm stopped in gear with clutch pulled in it is at idle speed. Any suggestions is appreciated because I don't know what else to check.
  23. KTM introduced its lastest EXC models at the iconic Erzberg in Austria. For more information visit http://www.ktm.com/enduro
  24. AnimalMother85

    Another bike build thread

    This is the saga of my poorly maintained 2003 YZ250 that I bought about a year ago. I added a few mods last summer to help me get by then deployed to Africa for 6 months. The poor bike was riddled with SAE hardware, spray foam where there should have been gaskets, and ziptied rear fender, a horribly cut seat, and plenty of other unspeakable things. However, it came with a title and the engine did run pretty strong at the time...even though it had a hint of engine noise. Over time, the noise progressed and I knew what had to be done. While I was away, I coerced my wife into sending a used crankshaft i bought out to Mr. Crankshaft so I'd have a spare for a quick swap... This is it after I replaced the fuel tank that had a split in it and put a lectron carb on. It still wasn't that smooth and the wheel/tire combination were unforgiving, plus, the suspension and rebound were set for a wanna-be-freestyle MX rider. This is the transition to where it was before I really dove in GT216AA Front with Nitro Mousse 18" Rear with Shinko 505 Cheater rear and Nitro Mousse Low Enduro bend Flexx bars (eventually putting steering dampener on) SSS Forks and suspension done by W.E.R. DEP Armored Enduro Pipe Steahly 9oz Flywheel Weight Devol Skidplate IMS/Zipty tank Non-cracked white rear fender Tall seat...I forget who made it, but it does what it do and fits well. Head cut by 218 (head was cut after this photo was taken) rock kickstand During this ride, I had next to no bottom end due to a stuck powervalve. This was my first ride since I came home. I never really tore into the engine, so I got in there, cleaned it up and replaced a broken powervalve pulley and a few areas where parts were missing from the previous owner(s). Two weeks after this picture, I took it out to the mountains for the fourth of july and it started to get real nasty sounding and not in a good way This is why: While I was in there, I figured I'd send the top end out to Eric Gorr...and since that has a 2.5 week lead time, I might as well get the frame in order. Now my bike looks like this. The frame was spray bombed over who knows what, which was over the the original finish. That is being re-mediated. To be continued...
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