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Found 34 results

  1. Hi there, new to the forums, I bought an 03 Yz250f that had a few problems I found after I bought it. The float was stuck in the carb so I had to clean that. Installed a new adjustable fuel mixture screw for easier tuning. But it still wasn't running right, the radiator is leaking through the overflow, and the radiator cap is good. It pops more then it should. I get they pop a lot, but it was way to much considering that it was running a rich fuel mixture. So, I figured head gasket might be bad, and while I had the valve cover off to check to gasket might as well check valve clearance. But while taking the valve cover off I broke one of the screws, half of it is still in the valve cover, and the other got stripped out.. I have a ton if tools so I can get them out, and if it comes to it I can cut the valve cover off and buy a new one. But I've been looking online and can't find the screws that hold the cover on. So where can I find the screws(the Allen wrench ones) that hold the valve cover on? Where can I find a new head gasket that isn't 30 bucks? And what else should I do based off of the problems I've had so far. Thanks in advance! Ben
  2. lukerpm

    kx250f not starting after rebuild

    Hi guys. I have a 2011 fuel injected kx250f. I just put a new piston in it and adjusted the camshafts and valve shims. they are all adjusted perfectly in spec. I have put the bike back together now and have been trying to start it all day. It has spark and compression. However you can hear air coming back out the air filter when kicking it over. every around 10 kicks it backfires but doesn't start. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  3. Dale Crabtree

    2009 CRF230f idle problems

    I have a 2009 crf230f that I recently bought. It starts great other than being cold natured. When idling it will be fine then it will blow air back through carb and into air box. You can hear this happen and fill the air come out of the top of air box. This causes the bike to lose rpm's and will eventually kill the engine. Can someone please tell me what is causing this? Intake valve issue, carb adjustment or other? Thanks
  4. chris.scott664

    Valve Shimming Trouble

    Hey Guys, Doing my first valve shim on my 07crf250r. bike is real hard to start, i changed my oil and cleaned my air filter. even cleaned the carb..so im guessing its the valves. Measuring the exhaust valves were fairly simple; as in i could tell when the shim fit and did not. cant say the same for my intakes. im having a real hard time determining whether or not the shim is fitting between the cam lobe and the valve bucket. any tips or tricks from some anyone with more experience than i do? my exhausts are .23mm and .25 mm so one is just barely in spec and one is slightly out of. don’t know what my intakes are because i cant figure out how to measure them. in the pic i was trying to use .09mm shim. dont know if they help but i couldnt upload the video thanks in advance
  5. Hi guys! I own a DRZ400s and have a question about taking a different approach to the standard leaky petcock Fix. So, I just ordered the fix a lot of people recommended on here for the leaky stock petcock: The Petcock off of a Yamaha Raptor. I did this after looking for other vacuum petcocks and not finding good alternatives. However, I found a part made by Pingel, and was wondering if it would work in conjunction with the Yamaha Raptor petcock, in order to give me the perks of the Suzuki Vacuum Petcock, without it's shoddy craftsmanship and limited life. Could one of you guys help me out, and tell me if this would work? Do I just place the Pingel Inline Vacuum Valve on the fuel line between the Raptor Petcock and the Carb? Or does the Pingel Valve work as a petcock all on it's own? Thanks guys. Besides hitting the dirt often, I am trying to use my DRZ to zip around Los Angeles and make deliveries with postmates/grubhub/etc, so I would not like have to shut off the manual petcock every time I hop on/off the bike. Thanks again guys!
  6. ronbuell

    Valve stem diameter?

    I need Valve stem diameter for YZ/WR250F. About to order seat cutter, and I couldn't find it in the book, just the clearance for guide/stem. Thanks
  7. I purchased this bike used, told it needed a new battery and igniter coil. I was lied about its condition and ripped off. Now I am trying to get it running. After many fixes already. The engine was turning extremely hard at certain points. So hard that a fully charged car battery could not turn it easily. I thought the valves might be off so I tested the clearance and they were way off. Some of them require a greater than 4mm shim (so something is wrong) I measured the clearance in true top of: Ex top: .457 mm Ex bot: .584 mm In top: .406mm In bot: .432 mm I took off the head engine and nothing looks too bad. The ex bot valve looking the worst, but not enough to justify 2mm of buildup. I am cleaning them now and putting everything back together shortly. What is the next culprit to look at? the timing chain? Any other suggestions? Thank you!
  8. FiveMg

    Wr250x help

    Here's the deal, bought a 2008 wr250x last year. The bike had 16000 km on it. The bike worked great for the first month. Then it had a hard time starting and then it wouldn't start unless you jumped it(would start fine on button when warm) with clutch but then it would run fine all day. Took it to the dealer and they adjusted the shims and know it runs fine. The dealer told me the next time this happens the bike would need a complete over haul do to the wear and its has the lowest shim they could get it. They told me It may work fine for a month or Year or two maybe but then its not going to start again. Last year when I called the guy I bought it from and asked him did he every had any trouble starting it, He said Sounds like you need to get your valves checked. Did he shim them at dealer and they told him the same thing so he sold it to me? How would he know it was the valves? Manual says 26k and I only got 16k. I only put 800k on it why would they go out of whack so fast. I'm pretty confused on the whole matter. Just looking for any input thanks.
  9. Raph911

    Reed Valve Issue ?

    Hi guys, I got a kx 85 2001 and i have a problem.. since i got it, sometimes its hard to start but since 2 days, i've started it but died when i went for a ride and wouldnt start anymore. So my problem : the bike crank but is really hard to start (if it start).. and if it start, it die.. and again hard to start. -Spark is good, air filter is clean, jetting seems okay (needle look pointed and carb clean), after a lot a cranking the gas get out by the overflow of the carb (so i have gas with good ratio 40:1) and the motor was replaced recently at 135psi of compression. Another thing, a got spooge from the exhaust. Now i am checking for the reed valve, they're not broken but i see a really little gap with my light and if i turn over the plate, its really worse. So do you think they were already turned by someone else ? Does a really little gap can cause a hard start/bogg like this? Should i change them for new ? Another idea on what i should look?? Thx !
  10. Just a heads-up alert about all those manually operated petcocks on eBay and the web. Look for the only 1 or 2 out there with the outlet tube or nipple vertical downward and below it. All other 100 models on ebay have the outlet tube pointing right at the choke pull lever. This forces a tight turn which on some fuel hoses will shut the hose and reduce fuel by 80%. Also when removing and installing the tank the hose must first be removed, or its a struggle to get it past the choke pull knob. The knob could be damaged or rod bent. Attaching the hose on the petcock after the tank is in place is tough because of the sharp downward angle needed. Here are a couple of images. I tried 2 different hoses. The light color hose was a high pressure air-compressor hose, it went flat. The black hose is a 1/4" fuel injection hose and it did better. I ended up routing it in a circle forward then back to the carb. Im going to buy a new petcock with the downward tube next.
  11. RockyMtnMark

    Valves: To Adjust or Just Ride?

    Good Morning, Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S. It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011. I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt. Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm. Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30 My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down. My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec. They are no more than 25 microns out of spec. My question is, do I really need to shim these? Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses? As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80. Thanks!
  12. I have a 2018 KTM 250 SX and I have found my way to this forum because my ktm dealer is the only one in a two hour radius and does not know a lick about their own bikes. Also all of my family and friends have never had KTM's or Husky's. I race motocross and am in the Intermediate/B Class, I weight 185 pounds. So I was hoping I had some KTM gear heads on here to help me answer some questions. Warning: I am about to ask a lot of information so if some threads are already created just please point me to the link. My main goal is kind of crazy in my mind... I need more longer wrap out time in 2nd gear but need 3rd gear to be snappy out of turns so I do not burn up my clutch. I ask this because a lot of the tracks I ride at in Missouri have pretty good size jumps right out of a sweeper or sharp turn. I dont like to hit them in 2nd right now because I get the Ronnie mac air boner affect in the air (because 2nd gear is very snappy and short). 1. Does anyone have any recommended adjustments for the RED power valve spring? (turns out/turns in?) Also what is the tool/socket I need to adjust, Robertson? What size? 2. Any recommended suspension settings other than the manual? 3. My manual says the bike has a Performance ignition map that can be plugged in? Is that correct or is that only for the EXC models? 4. What rear tire has everyone seemed to run on this bike, 120 or 110? 5. Hate the long silencer exhaust, Should I run the FMF Shorty or the ProCircuit Shorty? 6. What size rear sprocket seems to work best for motocross with this bike? 49? thanks for the much needed help!
  13. TheAirborneCheese

    YZ125 Missing Exhaust Bridge

    I bought a 2004 YZ125 a couple years ago and the bike has run like a charm. Anyways a couple weeks ago I was riding and the powervalves snapped and hit the piston and I lost the top end. Anyways I ordered a new top end and replacement powervalves but as I was inspecting the cylinder I noticed something. The cylinder bore survived just fine and just needs a deglazing but I noticed that the entire exhaust bridge is missing. The cylinder has been sleeved with an LA sleeve and the exhaust bridge on the inner bore of the sleeve is perfect but the original aluminum exhaust bridge in the cylinder behind the sleeve is completely gone. Is it ok to throw the new powervalves and top end in or am I looking at needing a new cylinder? Also thinking about it now, if the exhaust bridge had just come completely out as I was riding would I have lost it in the pipe? There isn't any evidence of shavings or pieces of the bridge anywhere in the exhaust port or the pipe. Also, the piston has no damage other than from the powervalves hitting it. It makes me think the exhaust bridge has been missing since before I bought the bike
  14. TLDR: valve locking nut fell off. found the nut and replaced it. Bike still won't start. I turned up to a trail ride a few weeks ago, started the bike 2nd kick as usual, rode across the paddock to another car in the car park and stalled. I assumed it was because the engine was cold and I've been meaning to check the valve clearances. I tried to start it for quite a while but it would only sometimes fire or backfire, then stall straight away. Was looking all over the bike to figure out what's wrong. After opening the valve inspection caps I noticed the locking nut for the right rear intake valve had disappeared. So I took the valve cover off in the car park to take a look around. Couldn't find the nut so I called it a day and took the bike home. Now I've been working on the bike every night since last weekend and It's still a problem. The first step was to find the missing locking nut. Checked under the cam, removed the head (not that I needed to, just wanted to torque up the cylinder bolts). Checked under the clutch cover. Managed to use a magnet to shift the nut across the bottom of the sump, then suck it out of a small opening using the magnet. The nut was oval so I put it in a vice to make it circle again. Turns out thread need to be quite accurate so it's not going to work. Thankfully I have a spare xr250 to borrow a locking nut. After Installing the locking nut and checking all valve clearances, the bike wouldn't start again. It's still doing the same thing it was with no locking nut. I double checked the cam sprocket is aligned properly. It's about half a tooth retarted, which is fine according to other people on here. Yesterday I tried towing the bike behind a car to start it. I noticed very consistent and rhythmic firing from the bike. Roughly (but consistently) every 8 or 16 revolutions, the bike will fire once. After it warmed up slightly (from dragging it around behind a car), It would fire twice instead of once. Today I swapped the carb with my spare XR to make sure it's not a carb problem. I haven't tried towing it around the paddock, but it feels the same kicking it over. Sometimes fires and stalls immediately. So I guess the locking nut has damaged something in the engine to cause this but I have no idea what. the only damage I saw was denting through the head where the cam chain goes. There is a small, what looks to be spring loaded oiling line that touches the cam. Because of the denting, it's no longer spring loaded and stays in the compressed position. There's a tag on the cam that pushes on the oil line in. No idea why but just though I'd mention it. I suspect this could be a very difficult problem to isolate so I'm thinking of selling the XRs as is and upgrading.. After having just spent $600 on a rebuild :(. Any ideas on what I can do? The bike with the problem is a 2001 XR250R, My spare is a 1994 XR250R. Are there any parts you suggest I swap between the two for testing?
  15. BRAAAP_Man555

    Worn Valve springs = less power?

    So i have this 06" crf250r new high compression piston in a new cylinder and i recently changed all of my valves. I did not change the springs. I found a small piece of valve spring in my flywheel. Could this make my bike have less power? How do you test valve springs to see if they are still good? Is it safe to ride as is? Feels like carb is a little off but thats a different topic.
  16. naromando

    Piston, Rings, Valves Rebuild Help

    I have a 2009 CRF250X. It was in dire need of a new piston, rings, valves, springs, and reshimming; the bike had zero compression prior to doing this work, I let it go far too long. I couldn't get valves back into tolerance by just shimming either. I did the job myself and this is the first time I've done any of this, just teaching myself from YouTube and the service manual. I did have the valve seats done by the local shop to make sure that was done right since the valves ate into the seats pretty well. I finished the job and it runs again. It will only start by using the kick start though. The electric start turns the engine over, but it won't start even after the bike is warm. Also, it stalls after sitting idle for a little bit in neutral. I tried adjusting idle screw and it will stay running if I have the idle high enough, but then it is set too high for normal use. Other than these 2 issues, the rebuild seems to have been successful! I'm looking for help on what you guys think the issue could be that it doesn't want to start with the electric starter, but will with the kick start??? And also reasons it could be stalling at idle after a job like this??? Where should I start?
  17. So I was feeling pretty good having done just finished replacing the shims and re-timing the cams. As I was double checking the timing by rotating the motor via a socket, I stuck my finger where the ACCT would go and could feel the cam chain go slack and then immediately get tight. The cam chain would move about inch or so (I attached a picture of the cam position immediately before the cam chain goes slack) Is this normal motor operation as the motor goes through the cycle? For the rest of the cycle the cam chain tension is consistent. I have never closely monitored the behavior of the cam chain but it strikes me as being odd, and something that could be damaging at 7000 RPM. Please help a brother out, I am at a loss and dont really want to start taking apart the bottom end for no reason. I know it s hard to diagnose from a keyboard, but would appreciate any guidance.
  18. In an effort to redeem myself from dredging up an 11 year old thread yesterday I decided I would contribute some much sought after info to this forum. I am in the midst of a complete tear down and refresh of an '07 WR450. I started with the chassis, bearings, wheels, and suspension--and will work my way into the motor last. I am currently re-springing, sealing, and valving my fork, as the prior owner was much heavier and had it set up for him. All is smooth and easy until I get to removing the base valve (compression) to release the damper rod from the lower fork tube. In the past I had luck just shooting it with an impact and the assembly would be free. Not on this fork.... So I set about ordering the Motion Pro damper rod fork tool (Part # 08-0117) BUT that tool only works on 47 mm and under forks. The WR is 48 mm. And of course there is no chance of a dealer having the OEM Yamaha tool--or me paying the exorbitant amount for that piece of tooling. (OEM part #'s 90890-01494, YM-01494) Then it is off to the forums and Google to try and find some answers. I discover that many, many, bro's have asked about what tool to use, or a DIY trick such that they can remove the damper tube and base valve. Many suggest that having the fork leg fully assembled, with springs and all, then loading the upside down leg and shooting it with an impact driver will release the base valve from the damper tube. I definitely believe this and many report having success with that method, though it often requires an extra set of hands. I aint down with that....especially when it comes time to put it all back together and I am going to want the tool to assure that assembly is torqued to spec. So I set off to Home Depot with a fork lower, and my 2 year old. First to the plumbing aisles. First the kitchen and toilet stuff, no luck there. Then into the pipe aisle, 1-1/4 black, or galvanized pipe looks really close but the OD is too big. Time to get creative. Think about what other applications around the house use tubing, or pipe?.....preferably thin walled. Immediately I head to the closet and storage/shelving aisle....thinking clothes hanger rod. I take the 72" piece of decorative pipe and stick it into the fork leg in my cart, while the 2 year old amuses himself with my vernier caliper. Booyah, lets take this to the register, search over. I am very confident from eye-balling it that I can make the tool from this piece of closet hardware! I take the 72" piece and use a pipe cutter to chop off a 12" section from the end without the label sticker or barcode. (shit, I may just return it doubting the clerk is gonna measure) From that piece I make a trace of the OD of the 1-5/16 closet rod circle end. Then I divide the tracing up into equal parts by drawing a tic-tac-toe, or hashtag #### across it. Mark off 4 of the "boxes" on the end with black marker, and use a hacksaw and cut off wheel to remove all BUT the marked pieces. Leaving me with 4 prongs that resemble a "castle". Clean it all up with some filing, and grinding. Then I bored a 3/8" hole through the non-castle end to pass a piece of rod through to use as my handle. I fish the homemade tool around for a second, and it locks right into place! Then while holding the tool I shoot the base valve, 14 mm allen, with a cordless impact and it comes right out. I can't say for sure...but I do not think it was very tight and a "regular" hex wrench or allen socket would work just fine. Also I decided to take some measurements of the damper tube and its tooling receptacle should anyone ever want them. The outside diameter of the tube that protrudes above the flange for the removal tool is ~28 mm The 4 slots that the teeth of the castle tool will fit into are about ~15 mm The distance between the tool slots, when measured on center of 2 parallel holes is ~30 mm The inside diameter of the lower fork leg is ~46 mm It took me 45 minutes in the Depot to look, 20 minutes to fabricate the tool, and the material cost about $20. I have enough left over closet rod to probably make 7 more of these things! If I don't return the remaining 60" to the store...PM me with your address and like $6.10 shipping and I'll cut you off a piece! LOL I really hope this helps many people, and let me say...I can't believe how easy and well it worked! Check out the pics for clarity. You're welcome...
  19. Hi - I recently finished a successful valve job on a CRF230F and decided to do the other bike (CRF150F) right away because I already had all the right tools and such out. Ha. Well, my surprise is that on my 150 when I use the crankshaft nut to find top dead center, right after I see the "F" for "firing" in the sight hole and I'm ready to turn a little farther to get "T" to "top", the motor wants to slip past the "T" rather than letting it stop at the "T" point. The 230 didn't act this way. It was happy to stop at the "T" for me. On the 150 I found this behavior both on the compression and exhaust strokes. I could have a helper hold it at "T" for me, but I'm wondering if this is a sign of something else. Thoughts? [BTW, the reason I"m wondering about other possibilities is that while the 150 runs fine at least when it's warm, I find that when it's near idle and cooler that sometimes I hear it "stutter" when I'm just adding a tiny bit of throttle above idle. The stutter is pretty pronounced and seems like the engine isn't very happy - but the stutter only happens once and then goes away for at least a handful of seconds before it stutters/hiccups again - but as it warms all seems fine.] Dunno if this is a typical kind of behavior or if it might be a sign of a timing chain issue of it being stretched or slipped/skipped and if the above symptom is just another thing pointing to that problem. Thanks! bob
  20. TeamGrey

    07 yz250f

    Have anyone used wiseco center intake valve with the four rest beginning OEM? How does it turn out in terms of power and reliability?
  21. Hey guys! I'm currently rebuilding my 04 kx250f and am getting towards the end! Unfortunately, when I was about to put the valve shims back they dropped onto the table and I'm not sure where they were originally now... I know it's a rookie mistake but I didn't write down which shim was with which bucket.. Is there a way to at least somewhat guess? The dimensions are 2.94, 2.95, 2.90, and 2.54. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!
  22. Hi there! I wanna put some new valves in my old training bike - 2010 CRF250R. My main question is, what parts I should buy - what parts I should replace? FASTHEADS offers a rebuild, were they use the follwing parts: Beryllium Copper Intake Seats, Bronze Manganese exhaust guides, Chromium Nitride Coated Ti intake valves, Kibblewhite Black Diamond exhaust valves, OEM springs. They change the intake seats to actually match the titanium intake valves (stock seats are not perfect for the Ti intake valves) New exhaust guides, because they are mostly gone because of the rocker arm They leave the intake guides and exhaust seats (probably just re-cut them). --- Thats what I have on my list: New titanium intake valves - Del West or Xceldyne ? New intake seats - Beryllium Copper or MoldStar®90 (Beryllium-Free Copper) ? New exhaust valves - OEM Honda or Kibblewhite Black Diamond ? New exhaust guides - Bronze Manganese or MoldStar®90 (Beryllium-Free Copper) ? New valves springs - OEM Honda or...? When everything is true what they say about the MoldStar 90 stuff it's better than BeCu. Is this enough or should I replace everything seats and guides intake/exhaust? Any advantages if I go all titanium intake plus exhaust valves? Don't think so... Thanks in advance
  23. Hi, have an 84 pe 175 and really struggling getting the bike to run properly. Carb was thick with crud, so replaced the pilot and main jet, along with the needle valve assembly. Set the needle midway and mix at one and half turns out. Didn’t run great and raised the needle clip up to lean it out, and 2 and half turns on mixture. Runs ok, but does have a flat spot from close throttle to full open and is dumping fuel back into the box and leaving a puddle. And I can’t understand why. As I said replaced the usual suspects, checked the float and level and all seems good. And although the carb looks good, can’t determine if this worn out, Reed valves or I’m Just being stupid? Any advice would really help, as its doing my nut. Cheers
  24. Kawasaki.275

    2015 kx250f problems

    Hi guys any response would be great. So I just got this 2015 kx250f like 3 weeks ago and I haven't got to riding it that much but since then I've already noticed a few things that are a little abnormal. Whenever the bike is warmed up or even ridden for a while the clutch seems to be jerky and not smooth when taking off from stop. what could be causing this jerkyness? I've replaced the oil in the bike and adjusted the clutch line, nothing helped. When the bike is rolling I can shift the bike into neutral but not when stopped (while the bike is running of course). Also the one that is really concerning me- whenever the bike is cold started(and idling), idling( when warmed up) or cruising in low rpm and trying to accelerate I hear this knocking noise. But whenever I'm revving the bike just a little bit all the way to high rpms the noise seems to go away. It doesn't loose any power and it's only at really low rpms. I can confirm it's coming from the engine and not the chain since I've adjusted the chain to spec. Thanks in advance
  25. Hi guys, new here, I have a 1981 Honda xl500 and it's fantastic. While I was riding yesterday, as I shifted into 3rd or 4th from 2nd, my bike didn’t want to stay in gear and would revert to neutral. When I squeezed the clutch to shift back down, my bike died. This all happened once and I assumed I ran out of gas, but started my bike again and kept riding, where it all happened again a block later. I think, “Bike is probably out of gas, no problem, I’ll go grab some gas and keep going.” This is where it gets weird. I start filling my tank and almost instantly notice gas leaking out of the engine. I stop pouring and look – it is coming out of the carb. It looks like it could be a designated overflow drain but since I had only put about 1-2L of fuel in the tank, I do not know why it would be overflowing. I turned my gas shutoff to the off position and it stopped. When I turned it back on again, the gas was draining out of the overflow drain as well as another overflow drain on the other side of the carb! I didn’t want to keep filling gas in the tank just to watch it keep leaking, so I stopped filling the tank and gave up for the night. What should I do? Thanks in advance for any advice given!