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Found 51 results

  1. Hey guys -- I don't have a KTM shop near my house so I need to place an order online. Can anybody recommend a decent online shop with good prices on valvetrain components? I will be looking for an intake valve with spring, retainer... the whole kit. Also, should I stay with titanium, or switch to stainless or whatever? I don't race, and would prefer to save cost and make it more reliable with less maintenance, if possible. This is for a 2016 350 XCF
  2. lukerpm

    kx250f not starting after rebuild

    Hi guys. I have a 2011 fuel injected kx250f. I just put a new piston in it and adjusted the camshafts and valve shims. they are all adjusted perfectly in spec. I have put the bike back together now and have been trying to start it all day. It has spark and compression. However you can hear air coming back out the air filter when kicking it over. every around 10 kicks it backfires but doesn't start. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  3. 2008 crf250r. Just installed new gaskets for top end and new rings. I also adjusted the valves since the exhaust side had tightened up. I cleaned the jets in the carb prior to the top end work (which took about 3 weeks) It is still as difficult to start as before and i have to give the throttle a slight twist when i crank for it to start up. It will not idle and feels like it's significantly slower. I didn't ride it much before the top end work so maybe I'm just used to my 450 but it seems like it's sluggish. It doesn't pop at all though so what could be causing this?
  4. Owchimata

    xr440 top-end rebuild

    SO I'm having my top end rebuilt - one of the exhaust valves is clearly dumping oilso Im sure the valve is done and/or valve seat. So far I plan to have the following replaced: (Used parts) Cam (staying with stock and the one I got shows very little wear) Head (found a used one on ebay that looks to just need some lapping) Rocker Arms(on the used head) Head Cover (New Parts) Wiseco 440 top-end gasket kit Kibblewhite Black Diamond Valve kit with new springs, seals, etc New Cam Bearings New sparkplug. Am I missing anything for the rebuild and while it's open, should I consider doing any other work? thanks!
  5. Hi there, new to the forums, I bought an 03 Yz250f that had a few problems I found after I bought it. The float was stuck in the carb so I had to clean that. Installed a new adjustable fuel mixture screw for easier tuning. But it still wasn't running right, the radiator is leaking through the overflow, and the radiator cap is good. It pops more then it should. I get they pop a lot, but it was way to much considering that it was running a rich fuel mixture. So, I figured head gasket might be bad, and while I had the valve cover off to check to gasket might as well check valve clearance. But while taking the valve cover off I broke one of the screws, half of it is still in the valve cover, and the other got stripped out.. I have a ton if tools so I can get them out, and if it comes to it I can cut the valve cover off and buy a new one. But I've been looking online and can't find the screws that hold the cover on. So where can I find the screws(the Allen wrench ones) that hold the valve cover on? Where can I find a new head gasket that isn't 30 bucks? And what else should I do based off of the problems I've had so far. Thanks in advance! Ben
  6. I'm new to adjusting valves and do not want to mess anything up. I have already checked my clearances the exhaust valves were good and the intake were not. I checked the shims with a micrometer and wrote everything down on the piece of paper below. What I need help with now is doing the math to figure out what shim size I need to put back in the bike. Thanks for the help.
  7. CT2

    DRZ Motor Need Advice

    Hey guys, Looking for some information and advice. Have a 2006 DRZ400S with 10,600km on it. Just picked it up. It had been sitting since sometime in the fall, maybe September. It started and ran for a couple minutes. Run down of what I've done: took the carb out and apart, wanted to give it a clean. Found the O-rings on the float needle seat, and the main jet holder were deteriorated. The rest of the carb seemed ok. Checked the oil dip stick, smelled like gas. Makes sense, carb must have been leaking gas into the motor. When I removed the carb, there was a puddle of gas in the engine intake. I went to check the valves, got the valve cover off, then went to take off the caps so rotate the engine and line up the timing marks, and as soon as I started unscrewing it oil, or more like gas, started coming out. Got the oil pan under it, and cracked the case oil drain bolt... a mixture of gas and oil poured out, A LOT came out... I don't know how much volume is available in the engine, but the amount of gas/oil that came out filled the entire oil catch pan, must have been 4 or more litres. Not good... I rotated the crank and lined up the timing marks, the cam lobes seemed to be in the correct location, the lines all made sense I think. I checked the valves: EX= 0.23mm-0.25mm IN=0.15mm I was able to rotate the engine with the spark plug still in... should I be able to rotate the crank with the spark plug still in? Does the auto decomp allow this, or is there an issue there? The engine rotates, it isn't stuck or anything, however it seems that it gets a little stiff at the top of the stroke, and at some point makes a click. Here is what I can see so far: The cams appear to be in good condition to my untrained eye, thoughts? Appears to be properly timed, 15 pins between teeth, little confused by the numbers on the cams, no idea what they mean. Also I'm assuming these are the stock cams, I don't think any work was done on this motor. Looking down the intake at the intake valves. I also stuck my scope down the spark plug hole, but it was too big to get into the cylinder to see anything meaningful. So, what to do next... do the cams look ok? What would the gas in the motor have possibly damaged or done? Could it have hydro locked the motor and blown something (hence turning over even with the plug on)? Best way to flush the system of the gas? Should I pull the head? I'm thinking yes just so I know whats going on in there... this would be the first real motor work I've done. Just wanted to get some opinions. Thanks in advance!
  8. Hey there! I'm new to Thumper talk as a member but have read many help topics over the years, time to bite the bullet and get on board! Well To start I'm not new to working on bikes, Ive always done all the basic work on my Yamaha's, 3 to be exact. YZ250F, WR450F and now a WR250F. I'm also an HVAC Tech by trade so the electrical trouble shooting experience helps. I just bought this 2002 WR250F and It only started once and ran for about 30 seconds, sounded good. After that it wouldn't start, it gave a few false burps but nothing. Popped a few times on third kick with out starting but I was guessing it was fuel I dumped in by opening the throttle. I got spark! To my knowledge, what i was told by seller and from what I've seen upon opening it up, it has a 290 big bore kit, new valves- (I checked clearenses, intake in spec .13, exhaust say's .17-.22 I have .23) Not sure if thats a determining factor?? It also has newer cams and a decompression cam. NOTE, I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH 290 BIG BORE KITS, JETTING REQUIERMENTS etc... This may be the entire issue.... I took my carb off my 2002 YZ250F and put it on this bike because I know it works. I wanted to try and get it going since the carburetor that came with the bike was in a thousand pieces when i bought it. (Parts needed and on order, waiting). There is not much difference but...??? So i guess this is where the rest comes in. I went through the entire electrical system and ohm'd out everything accept the CDI box. see pictures. I couldn't find anything in the manual as far as checking ohm's. ?? I would think it would say but I didn't see anything. So here I am, is it just the carburetor? I mean it did run, it started with out the choke on like second kick and ran for 30 sec hand off throttle! I kicked my brains out two separate days checking different things and nothing after that. Please help! HAHAHA! Thanks!!
  9. My Honda crf70 started blowing a lot of smoke, so I changed the rings. Still blowing a lot of smoke after ring change. Opened the oil filler/dipstick and have a ton of back pressure through crank case. Could have been doing that before ring change...I don't know. I bought standard sized rings. Should I have bought oversized rings? is this a valve adjustment issue?
  10. TY REX

    Who knows what this is?

    Just did a cam rebuild strictly by the service manual and now there is an intermittent ticking coming from the cam cover area. Does anyone know what this is?
  11. Ali S.

    06 rmz 250 valves

    I opened the top end of my 06 rmz 250 because I was going to open up bottom, and I saw that one of the intake tappets for the valve had some marks on it. Is that a clearance problem?
  12. 2008 crf250r. Just installed new gaskets for top end and new rings. I also adjusted the valves since the exhaust side had tightened up. I cleaned the jets in the carb prior to the top end work (which took about 3 weeks) It is still as difficult to start as before and i have to give the throttle a slight twist when i crank for it to start up. It will not idle and feels like it's significantly slower. I didn't ride it much before the top end work so maybe I'm just used to my 450 but it seems like it's sluggish. It doesn't pop at all though so what could be causing this?
  13. I just finished rebuilding the top end on my 2001 wr250f. The bike has an Athena 290 big bore cylinder and piston. I never checked the valve clearance before the rebuild. After rebuilding, I checked the valve clearances. All three intake valves have zero clearance. I cannot get my .03mm gauge to slide in. The exhaust valves are only slightly on the tight side with .015mm each. I double checked and made sure I wasn't on the exhaust stroke. I have zero clearance on all valves on the exhaust stroke. I even tried turned the flywheel back and forth from TDC and measuring to see if my timing was off, causing the zero clearance. These test also had zero clearance on the intake valves. Have all three of my intake valves worn down to the point where there is no clearance? When I had the head off, the bottom of the valves looked decent. Slightly blackened, with a small amount of carbon, but I didnt notice any major wear, chips or cracks. Anyone got any idea what's going on here? Thanks in advance for your guys' wisdom.
  14. Last time I had my valves adjusted I had a shop do them, so I will preface this by saying that I may have adjusted them incorrectly myself because I do not recall this noise, and the kickstart problem that has come with it, after the previous adjustment. However, after completing what I believed to be a successful valve adjustment (I used the crank lock method to ensure I was at TDC) I immediately noticed this very loud ticking noise coming from the front right side of the engine that was not there before. This noise is separate from the normal noisy clutch sound that will go away when the clutch is engaged. This noise itself however, seems to subside when I pull in the decompression lever. The throttle response on the bike felt good when I rode it, and the electric start works just fine. The only noticeable issue (which is what is making me decide not to ignore the noise) is that my kickstart now feels like a brick wall and harshly snaps back at me, whereas before it would kick over the bike fairly effortlessly in no more than two kicks hot or cold. I will post a video of the bike riding and of it running while in the garage. Any suggestions for how to fix this are appreciated. Thanks in advance to all! Garage (rip kickstart/excuse the monologue): https://youtu.be/wG3lT3gixMw Riding (everything seems fine): https://youtu.be/ylqQpcufWzA
  15. hi, my 06 yz450f was perfect, it would start first kick when cold and hot, with putting a good amount of hours on it started getting harder to start when cold, now it wont start at all when cold unless pop started, doesn't idle and runs choppy until warmed up once warmed up starts first couple kicks and has power. my guess is the valves need to be shimmed? I was going to have my local shop check the valves then I was going to put a new top end in after anyways I put this top end in 150hrs ago. (bike was taken apart I used the piston that came with bike) im going to have to do better with keeping up with valve maintence this time around.
  16. MotoxMike7

    2014 CRF250r Engine Mods

    Hey everyone, I'm actually new to the forum and just created my page, so hello to you all! Anyways, I have a 2014 Honda Crf250r that I purchased in December of '16 with only 34.5 hours on it. I have since ridden that bike everyday that my work schedule allows, and she now has 100 hours on her. I have noticed the bike has become a bit harder to start, taking 10-20 kicks compared to the 1 or 2 that it would originally take to start it. Once the bike hit 100 hours, I decided it was time to tear it down to the frame and open up the heart of the beast. Upon removing my stock air boot, I noticed some dirt in my throttle body. After removing my throttle body, I also noticed some dirt where the throttle body connects to the engine... Probably why my bike is getting hard to start... Now I have not opened up my engine yet, and this is where you guys come in to help, but what exactly should I replace internal wise in my engine at 100hrs? I consider myself a C or B class rider, and I stay in the upper rpm range of my bike frequently. I would like to gain a little bit more power out of my bike, specifically in the top end/over-rev area since my bike has enough bottom end already to pop wheelies in 4th if I really try. I was thinking a high compression piston, cam, and idk what else. I don't want to lose bottom end power though, and I would like these internals to be reliable too. What part recommendations do you guys have, and what are some good brands? Hotcams/Procircuit/Carillo/Wiseco/etc
  17. Rainnosaurus

    2010 KX250f - won’t start, cold start

    I bought a 2010 KX250f from a guy who bought the bike brand new back in 2010 (only had 1 owner). The guy put a high compression piston in this bike. Also he was pretty much running straight race gas because when he took it to the shop, they must have messed with the jets because they weren’t stock anymore. I got new jets. Currently at...........………Pilot Jet - 42. Main Jet 185 I’ve messed with my air screw and tried a few things out but I still have to kick my bike like 30 times before it finally starts! The piston is supposed to be high compression but it doesn’t feel that way. I’m thinking of just replacing it and going back to stock??? Any thoughts? Ive read that valve clearance is an issue with this year bike... Also that Kawis need a little throttle when you kick. It ends up flooding every time. Send help please!!
  18. trying to get my motor to run better. working on the TOP END Kawasaki klx250 valve specs exhaust: 0.15-0.24 mm intake: 0.10-0.20 mm First Time: took it apart to check the valves. (without removing tensioner) put it back together changed the oil notes: it was making a tapping sound (prob the chain ) shifting bad Second Time: took it apart again, reset the timing, reset the tensioner and sub tensioner checked the valve clearance -exhaust: 0.14 and 0.15 mm -intake: 0.13 and 0.10 mm notes: after the second time runs a lot better , shifts smooth as hell and no more chain noise **but slight tapping noise and a lot more backfire , this is what I'm worried about** I want to get the exhaust to around 0.21mm (I think the tapping is the valves) slight hesitation , I think its the carb or exhaust
  19. hey all, yesterday had a DNF from an engine issue, well got it home and in a couple hours of washing and tear down found out it had broke an exhaust valve... the bike has aprox 260 hrs all together, obviously i never thought about when i should be replacing valves, top end has about 60-70 hrs on it (hour meter fell off and didnt notice for a race or too... oops.) it didnt damage anything it looks like other than the valve and the piston. so onto my questions. im looking at all the valve options. i have lapped many a valve and have even done a few 3 angles myself. but i dont know which one i should go with being all relatively equally priced? are stainless just as good? if my titanium lasted this long should i just put oem's back in? only really asking because i am extremely hard on the bike (3 hour races brutal dust and mud constantly tapped out in 5th.) also because ive seen alot of engine carnage but have never seen a valve break like this.
  20. I have a 2008 ktm exc 450 and recently replaced the head gaskets and now Im checking the valves. After rebuilding everything up to this point, id been able to get the camshaft with timing chain to slide into place just fine. But after removing one of the rocker arms to put a valve shim in, the cam will no longer slide all the way in. It stops with about 1/4 inch left and it feels like theres a fluid pressure preventing it from goin the rest of the way. I can force it if I try hard just enough to get the plate on the gear portion, but its not enough to screw tight. Did I mess something up? How do I get it to slide in like i did before?
  21. Basically, we all know 2004 is the year of the terrible valve issues on the Honda 250r, so can I buy a 2007 Head and put it on the 2004 cylinder?? Also what material are the intake valves on 2004 CRF250R
  22. I bought a non-running 2015 Crf450r from a guy who said that the local honda shop said it needed a new ECU. The bike has maybe 20 hours on it tops it is spotless. I changed the ECU and got nothing. Started to dig deeper and found out it had no compression. The nikasil (however it is spelled) had completely flaked off the upper third of the cylinder. Replaced the cylinder and put in a new piston still nothing. Swapped out the fuel tank in case the pump was bad, nothing. Checked all electrical connections and everything looks good. After a bunch of headache, finally got the bike to start by spraying starting fluid in the cylinder AND applying an external power source to the fuel pump. Once the bike starts up, it idles fine, revs fine, etc. However, it WILL NOT start without the external power source. Since finding this out, we have replaced the stator and tested all of the connections going to the ECU for a break or bad connection. Still nothing without the power source and starting fluid at the beginning. I am lost at this point as far as where to look next. Any suggestions or tips would be very much appreciated.
  23. KLX250s 2009 I want to rebuild the top end, - new valves - new head gasket - new rings Can I do it without removing the motor? how much work does it take & do I need any special measuring tools?
  24. So, I recently re-aquired my old 2013 XR650L from the guy I sold it to, and I have been doing a few minor mods and giving her a nice over haul so she runs really good. Pulling off the lowering link they guy had on it and putting the stock link back in, and re-greasing everything while I am at it. So I am 1 bolt away from having the shock off and I thought to myself: maybe I should go ahead and spring for a new... well, spring, and gold valves for the shock and respring and install gold valves in the front. I have heard the XRL rear shock is pretty decent and just needs a new spring. Any thoughts on this? If that will get me 90% of the way to half decent suspension I would be happy. Or is it totally worth installing gold valves? The forks are pretty bad so I am assuming gold valves are a must to get them somewhat under control. Thoughts?
  25. DeAndrae Loewen

    What Goes into a Valve Job?

    Hey! I recently bought a seized up 2009 YZ250F planning to rebuild it. The cylinder was rehoned and I replaced the crankshaft, most of the bearings, piston, timing chain, and some other smaller parts. Everything was working okay until I got to checking the valve clearances. The guy I bought the bike from (a mechanic) had taken apart the top end before he sold me it so I hadn't seen the valve clearances until now. The exhaust valves were fine, running at .20mm on the left and .18mm on the right with 1.70mm shims (the printed number). The leftand right intake valves were slightly out of spec at .08mm and .09mm. I was able to get the left clr. to .13mm on a 1.40mm shim and the right clr. to .10mm on a 1.55mm shim. Once again, these were the printed sizes, but it still seems weird to me that I had to go down two shim sizes for that small clearance change. I'll get back to that later. The real problem was the middle intake, which was zeroed out on a 1.40mm shim. I switched it with the smallest shim I have (1.20mm) and I still couldn't fit the .005mm feeler underneath the lobe. My question is what do I need to do when the valve can't be shimmer any further? Will I need to have the seat recut? What all goes into replacing valves. I've never seen it fully explained. And on the left and right intake valves, I've heard that once your shims are under 1.70mm you need to look at working on your valves. Is that true and would anything be done differently than on the the mid intake valve? I'd really appreciate it if someone could tell me what goes into a valve job and if my valves should be replaced. I've been looking around online for a couple hours and found only bit's and pieces. If someone has already answered these questions, please, point me over there. And if I'm asking the wrong questions, just let me know, I'm not here to be spoon-fed answers, but just couldnot find a full explanation. Sorry about the long post. It's my first time (probably) replacing valves, and I thought more people might want a good idea of what goes into a valve job. Thanks in advance!
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