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Found 56 results

  1. Hey there! I'm new to Thumper talk as a member but have read many help topics over the years, time to bite the bullet and get on board! Well To start I'm not new to working on bikes, Ive always done all the basic work on my Yamaha's, 3 to be exact. YZ250F, WR450F and now a WR250F. I'm also an HVAC Tech by trade so the electrical trouble shooting experience helps. I just bought this 2002 WR250F and It only started once and ran for about 30 seconds, sounded good. After that it wouldn't start, it gave a few false burps but nothing. Popped a few times on third kick with out starting but I was guessing it was fuel I dumped in by opening the throttle. I got spark! To my knowledge, what i was told by seller and from what I've seen upon opening it up, it has a 290 big bore kit, new valves- (I checked clearenses, intake in spec .13, exhaust say's .17-.22 I have .23) Not sure if thats a determining factor?? It also has newer cams and a decompression cam. NOTE, I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH 290 BIG BORE KITS, JETTING REQUIERMENTS etc... This may be the entire issue.... I took my carb off my 2002 YZ250F and put it on this bike because I know it works. I wanted to try and get it going since the carburetor that came with the bike was in a thousand pieces when i bought it. (Parts needed and on order, waiting). There is not much difference but...??? So i guess this is where the rest comes in. I went through the entire electrical system and ohm'd out everything accept the CDI box. see pictures. I couldn't find anything in the manual as far as checking ohm's. ?? I would think it would say but I didn't see anything. So here I am, is it just the carburetor? I mean it did run, it started with out the choke on like second kick and ran for 30 sec hand off throttle! I kicked my brains out two separate days checking different things and nothing after that. Please help! HAHAHA! Thanks!!
  2. Hey guys -- I don't have a KTM shop near my house so I need to place an order online. Can anybody recommend a decent online shop with good prices on valvetrain components? I will be looking for an intake valve with spring, retainer... the whole kit. Also, should I stay with titanium, or switch to stainless or whatever? I don't race, and would prefer to save cost and make it more reliable with less maintenance, if possible. This is for a 2016 350 XCF
  3. lukerpm

    kx250f not starting after rebuild

    Hi guys. I have a 2011 fuel injected kx250f. I just put a new piston in it and adjusted the camshafts and valve shims. they are all adjusted perfectly in spec. I have put the bike back together now and have been trying to start it all day. It has spark and compression. However you can hear air coming back out the air filter when kicking it over. every around 10 kicks it backfires but doesn't start. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  4. I'm new to adjusting valves and do not want to mess anything up. I have already checked my clearances the exhaust valves were good and the intake were not. I checked the shims with a micrometer and wrote everything down on the piece of paper below. What I need help with now is doing the math to figure out what shim size I need to put back in the bike. Thanks for the help.
  5. Owchimata

    xr440 top-end rebuild

    SO I'm having my top end rebuilt - one of the exhaust valves is clearly dumping oilso Im sure the valve is done and/or valve seat. So far I plan to have the following replaced: (Used parts) Cam (staying with stock and the one I got shows very little wear) Head (found a used one on ebay that looks to just need some lapping) Rocker Arms(on the used head) Head Cover (New Parts) Wiseco 440 top-end gasket kit Kibblewhite Black Diamond Valve kit with new springs, seals, etc New Cam Bearings New sparkplug. Am I missing anything for the rebuild and while it's open, should I consider doing any other work? thanks!
  6. CT2

    DRZ Motor Need Advice

    Hey guys, Looking for some information and advice. Have a 2006 DRZ400S with 10,600km on it. Just picked it up. It had been sitting since sometime in the fall, maybe September. It started and ran for a couple minutes. Run down of what I've done: took the carb out and apart, wanted to give it a clean. Found the O-rings on the float needle seat, and the main jet holder were deteriorated. The rest of the carb seemed ok. Checked the oil dip stick, smelled like gas. Makes sense, carb must have been leaking gas into the motor. When I removed the carb, there was a puddle of gas in the engine intake. I went to check the valves, got the valve cover off, then went to take off the caps so rotate the engine and line up the timing marks, and as soon as I started unscrewing it oil, or more like gas, started coming out. Got the oil pan under it, and cracked the case oil drain bolt... a mixture of gas and oil poured out, A LOT came out... I don't know how much volume is available in the engine, but the amount of gas/oil that came out filled the entire oil catch pan, must have been 4 or more litres. Not good... I rotated the crank and lined up the timing marks, the cam lobes seemed to be in the correct location, the lines all made sense I think. I checked the valves: EX= 0.23mm-0.25mm IN=0.15mm I was able to rotate the engine with the spark plug still in... should I be able to rotate the crank with the spark plug still in? Does the auto decomp allow this, or is there an issue there? The engine rotates, it isn't stuck or anything, however it seems that it gets a little stiff at the top of the stroke, and at some point makes a click. Here is what I can see so far: The cams appear to be in good condition to my untrained eye, thoughts? Appears to be properly timed, 15 pins between teeth, little confused by the numbers on the cams, no idea what they mean. Also I'm assuming these are the stock cams, I don't think any work was done on this motor. Looking down the intake at the intake valves. I also stuck my scope down the spark plug hole, but it was too big to get into the cylinder to see anything meaningful. So, what to do next... do the cams look ok? What would the gas in the motor have possibly damaged or done? Could it have hydro locked the motor and blown something (hence turning over even with the plug on)? Best way to flush the system of the gas? Should I pull the head? I'm thinking yes just so I know whats going on in there... this would be the first real motor work I've done. Just wanted to get some opinions. Thanks in advance!
  7. 2008 crf250r. Just installed new gaskets for top end and new rings. I also adjusted the valves since the exhaust side had tightened up. I cleaned the jets in the carb prior to the top end work (which took about 3 weeks) It is still as difficult to start as before and i have to give the throttle a slight twist when i crank for it to start up. It will not idle and feels like it's significantly slower. I didn't ride it much before the top end work so maybe I'm just used to my 450 but it seems like it's sluggish. It doesn't pop at all though so what could be causing this?
  8. Hi there, new to the forums, I bought an 03 Yz250f that had a few problems I found after I bought it. The float was stuck in the carb so I had to clean that. Installed a new adjustable fuel mixture screw for easier tuning. But it still wasn't running right, the radiator is leaking through the overflow, and the radiator cap is good. It pops more then it should. I get they pop a lot, but it was way to much considering that it was running a rich fuel mixture. So, I figured head gasket might be bad, and while I had the valve cover off to check to gasket might as well check valve clearance. But while taking the valve cover off I broke one of the screws, half of it is still in the valve cover, and the other got stripped out.. I have a ton if tools so I can get them out, and if it comes to it I can cut the valve cover off and buy a new one. But I've been looking online and can't find the screws that hold the cover on. So where can I find the screws(the Allen wrench ones) that hold the valve cover on? Where can I find a new head gasket that isn't 30 bucks? And what else should I do based off of the problems I've had so far. Thanks in advance! Ben
  9. The manual says to check valves every 600 miles. I try to be diligent about maintenance but in this case there was a slight... lapse... and there were 3700 miles on the clock. Oops. Anyway I checked and adjusted. Highly recommend the Bikers Choice tool. Details and pix here: http://bit.ly/2Rp70Kc How often do people check their valves and what do you find in terms of gaps?
  10. trying to get my motor to run better. working on the TOP END Kawasaki klx250 valve specs exhaust: 0.15-0.24 mm intake: 0.10-0.20 mm First Time: took it apart to check the valves. (without removing tensioner) put it back together changed the oil notes: it was making a tapping sound (prob the chain ) shifting bad Second Time: took it apart again, reset the timing, reset the tensioner and sub tensioner checked the valve clearance -exhaust: 0.14 and 0.15 mm -intake: 0.13 and 0.10 mm notes: after the second time runs a lot better , shifts smooth as hell and no more chain noise **but slight tapping noise and a lot more backfire , this is what I'm worried about** I want to get the exhaust to around 0.21mm (I think the tapping is the valves) slight hesitation , I think its the carb or exhaust
  11. Basically, we all know 2004 is the year of the terrible valve issues on the Honda 250r, so can I buy a 2007 Head and put it on the 2004 cylinder?? Also what material are the intake valves on 2004 CRF250R
  12. I have a 2008 ktm exc 450 and recently replaced the head gaskets and now Im checking the valves. After rebuilding everything up to this point, id been able to get the camshaft with timing chain to slide into place just fine. But after removing one of the rocker arms to put a valve shim in, the cam will no longer slide all the way in. It stops with about 1/4 inch left and it feels like theres a fluid pressure preventing it from goin the rest of the way. I can force it if I try hard just enough to get the plate on the gear portion, but its not enough to screw tight. Did I mess something up? How do I get it to slide in like i did before?
  13. thunderdriver007

    2007 CRF450R Engine Parts

    Motor parts from an '07 crf450r, will fit a couple other years. Located in Shreveport, Louisiana. I'll ship or you can pick up in person. I'd like to sell the parts in the pictured groups (minus the last miscellaneous picture). If you'd like parts/ bolts/ anything from that last picture just open up the picture in microsoft paint and draw a circle around what you want to make it easier for both of us. Make a reasonable offer and we can do payments through paypal. Thanks for looking and feel free to ask questions.
  14. KLX250s 2009 I want to rebuild the top end, - new valves - new head gasket - new rings Can I do it without removing the motor? how much work does it take & do I need any special measuring tools?
  15. hey all, yesterday had a DNF from an engine issue, well got it home and in a couple hours of washing and tear down found out it had broke an exhaust valve... the bike has aprox 260 hrs all together, obviously i never thought about when i should be replacing valves, top end has about 60-70 hrs on it (hour meter fell off and didnt notice for a race or too... oops.) it didnt damage anything it looks like other than the valve and the piston. so onto my questions. im looking at all the valve options. i have lapped many a valve and have even done a few 3 angles myself. but i dont know which one i should go with being all relatively equally priced? are stainless just as good? if my titanium lasted this long should i just put oem's back in? only really asking because i am extremely hard on the bike (3 hour races brutal dust and mud constantly tapped out in 5th.) also because ive seen alot of engine carnage but have never seen a valve break like this.
  16. I bought a non-running 2015 Crf450r from a guy who said that the local honda shop said it needed a new ECU. The bike has maybe 20 hours on it tops it is spotless. I changed the ECU and got nothing. Started to dig deeper and found out it had no compression. The nikasil (however it is spelled) had completely flaked off the upper third of the cylinder. Replaced the cylinder and put in a new piston still nothing. Swapped out the fuel tank in case the pump was bad, nothing. Checked all electrical connections and everything looks good. After a bunch of headache, finally got the bike to start by spraying starting fluid in the cylinder AND applying an external power source to the fuel pump. Once the bike starts up, it idles fine, revs fine, etc. However, it WILL NOT start without the external power source. Since finding this out, we have replaced the stator and tested all of the connections going to the ECU for a break or bad connection. Still nothing without the power source and starting fluid at the beginning. I am lost at this point as far as where to look next. Any suggestions or tips would be very much appreciated.
  17. Recently purchased a 93 xr250l. Bike starts 3-4 kicks but has very loud tapping sound. Checked the valve clearance and set to 005 for exhaust, and 004 intake and no change at all. Old owner said he ran it low on oil and tapping started. What else should i be looking at? Thanks!
  18. So, I recently re-aquired my old 2013 XR650L from the guy I sold it to, and I have been doing a few minor mods and giving her a nice over haul so she runs really good. Pulling off the lowering link they guy had on it and putting the stock link back in, and re-greasing everything while I am at it. So I am 1 bolt away from having the shock off and I thought to myself: maybe I should go ahead and spring for a new... well, spring, and gold valves for the shock and respring and install gold valves in the front. I have heard the XRL rear shock is pretty decent and just needs a new spring. Any thoughts on this? If that will get me 90% of the way to half decent suspension I would be happy. Or is it totally worth installing gold valves? The forks are pretty bad so I am assuming gold valves are a must to get them somewhat under control. Thoughts?
  19. DeAndrae Loewen

    What Goes into a Valve Job?

    Hey! I recently bought a seized up 2009 YZ250F planning to rebuild it. The cylinder was rehoned and I replaced the crankshaft, most of the bearings, piston, timing chain, and some other smaller parts. Everything was working okay until I got to checking the valve clearances. The guy I bought the bike from (a mechanic) had taken apart the top end before he sold me it so I hadn't seen the valve clearances until now. The exhaust valves were fine, running at .20mm on the left and .18mm on the right with 1.70mm shims (the printed number). The leftand right intake valves were slightly out of spec at .08mm and .09mm. I was able to get the left clr. to .13mm on a 1.40mm shim and the right clr. to .10mm on a 1.55mm shim. Once again, these were the printed sizes, but it still seems weird to me that I had to go down two shim sizes for that small clearance change. I'll get back to that later. The real problem was the middle intake, which was zeroed out on a 1.40mm shim. I switched it with the smallest shim I have (1.20mm) and I still couldn't fit the .005mm feeler underneath the lobe. My question is what do I need to do when the valve can't be shimmer any further? Will I need to have the seat recut? What all goes into replacing valves. I've never seen it fully explained. And on the left and right intake valves, I've heard that once your shims are under 1.70mm you need to look at working on your valves. Is that true and would anything be done differently than on the the mid intake valve? I'd really appreciate it if someone could tell me what goes into a valve job and if my valves should be replaced. I've been looking around online for a couple hours and found only bit's and pieces. If someone has already answered these questions, please, point me over there. And if I'm asking the wrong questions, just let me know, I'm not here to be spoon-fed answers, but just couldnot find a full explanation. Sorry about the long post. It's my first time (probably) replacing valves, and I thought more people might want a good idea of what goes into a valve job. Thanks in advance!
  20. Hondadevotee

    Difference between 03 & 06 head

    Can anyone tell me the physical difference between a 03 & 06 head? I have a 05 and I'm looking to put a 06 on it to try and get away from the valve issues of 05. Long story but I was sent a head from a 06 and it has a hole on the right side which my 05 doesn't I then tried to put an ex valve from my 05 spares kit and it was to big to fit in the stem??? From what I can see of the parts fiche the hole has a cover (metal with a black circle) on it. Have I been ripped off and sold a 02, 03 head? I can't find much info on it but it looks like the extra hole might be for the decomp arm/lever.
  21. I'm COMPLETELY confused! I bought new guides and valves for my 650r. Knocked in the guides and reamed them with Honda's reamer, 07984-ZE20001, as pr shop manual. What I then find is that the exhaust valves can enter the guide tightly, but the intake cannot. I checked the numbers, and it seems to me that the new valves (14711-MBN-670 and 14721-MBN-670) are larger than they should be, but are not called OS (over-size) Here are my measurements and the standard measurements from the shop manual The reamer is 6.6, so my question is: why are the valves larger than the guide ID / reamer??? ANY help on this would be deeply appreciated! Cheers!
  22. Supermotofool

    Valve Question

    This has been an ongoing issue, as I am sure some of you are beginning to notice.. sorry for the somewhat repetitive posts in advance. My valves were out of spec, I was only getting 85-90 PSI of compression. I shimmed my valves to the correct clearance, and I got the compression up to 150 psi. Now after riding my bike for 15-20 minutes, it will start doing the same thing it did before - it will idle super low and eventually bog out. I had the idle adjustment turned up very high, when I gave it a little throttle the idle would kick up for a couple seconds, then it would settle back down to extremely low and bog out. To me this sounds like something with the idle air circ, or jetting. Could something with the valves cause this as well? Want to get a second opinion before I send the head in for the $500 rebuild and still have the same issue. Thank you all again!
  23. Just finished adjusting the valves on my 2008 crf250r, I kicked once and the motor turned over maybe one rotation and then it locked up. I thought the cam was set correctly but it' possible its off. I also forgot to use the engine locking bolt on the bottom side that locks it at tdc while working on it but I wasn' concerned because I didn' feel like I was turning the engine the chain while working on it. Before the valve adjustment it kicked over fine. What could the issue be?
  24. rbcross62

    2013 KX250F kickstarting issue

    Hey guys, we can really use some know-how on this issue, thank you in advance for any help you can provide! We've been struggling for a few weeks with a kickstart issue with a 2013 KX250F. My son purchased the bike grenaded; broken valves, damaged head, bad piston and cylinder (piston jammed sideways in cylinder), bad crank and rod, bad bearings, and all the other issues that go along with these. We sent the head to Millennium for repair and we also had them install Kibblewhite black diamond valves and springs. We installed a new crank, crank bearings, a few other bad bearings, new cam chain, Cylinder Works cylinder, Vertex piston, gaskets, and reworked head. We shimmed the valves and checked them a few times with the new springs - we ended up make a small change in one of the exhaust shims and they are all now within factory spec - 0.10-0.15mm intake and 0.17-0.22mm exhaust. The bike did sit for over a year with fuel in it, but we emptied it and put in rec gas (90 octane without ethanol) along with seafoam and some injector cleaner. We have just over 60 pounds of compression when we tested it. With all that said, we can not get the bike to kick start. We can kick it until our leg falls off and she won't start. Now, if we push it and it turns over once or twice and doesn't start then we are able to kick start it. If we spray starting fluid in the throttle body it will also kick start. We tested the capacitor and it seems to check out. We're not sure if it could be an issue with the fuel pump, although once it's running it runs great. We push started it up until now and we've run it on a trail system for a few hours without any issue. The fuel injection works great without any hesitation so it seems that the injectors and fuel pump are good. Once we shut it off it will kick start within a few minutes just like it should. If it cools down for about 15 minutes then it won't kick start again. When we pulled the tank off we did notice that the gas leaks out of the fuel pump and never stops leaking out. When we apply 12 volts to the fuel pump in testing it sprays fuel quite well. As I said before, once started it runs great and everything works as it should. We have a little over 2 hours on it and she's still running strong. We are out of ideas as to what the issue could be and any help here would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for the great community! Rich and Josh
  25. I just put an fmf powerbomb on my 2006 yz250f and started it up a few times and have began to hear a slight tick in the top end. I also turned the bike over maybe 20 times without starting it to test for air leaks in the exhaust. Could this have caused too much back pressure and thrown off my valves? (the muffler plug WAS in). I know the normal 4 stroke engine noise, but this doesn't sound too normal. Could you guys take a listen and let me know? Hoping it's a normal sound. Any help appreciated! Video of sound:
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