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Found 20 results

  1. Just bought a 2015 KX 450F and I'm looking for a rim and sand paddle. I want a separate rim & tire so I don't have to worry about mounting and unmounting the tire on the rim. Looking to buy used to save some $$$$. I found a rear rim from a 2012 but not sure if it will fit my 2015. Does anyone know if this will fit my bike?
  2. I can't find a light weight flywheel to replace the one in my 2014 500EXC. It is going to be used strictly for hill climbing so quick shifting is very important and I need to be able to get the bike up to high RPM's as fast as possible. A flywheel weight is easy to find, but I can't find a replacement that is "lighter". Can anyone help please
  3. My wheel has some pretty serious lateral movement. I dont have a truing stand but my buddy could lend me a spoke torque wrench. Would I be able to eliminate the lateral movement only using the the torque wrench ? regards
  4. I'm in the process of truing a new rim to the rear hub of my DR. I have the rim laced and have double checked to make sure the short spokes are on the sprocket (large) side of the wheel. I have noticed while tightening the spoke nipples that the spokes had been starting to protrude from the nipple heads. This could only happen if there was not enough offset distance from the edge of the sprocket side of the hub to the edge of the rim. Currently I have about 1 1/8 inches measured with a straight edge across the face of the hub to the rim with a scale. I have loosened the sprocket side of the spoke nipples and am attempting to move the rim toward the disk side of the hub with the opposite spokes. Most of the wobble is out now and I have quit for the night. Thanks in advance for any advice. Does anyone have the correct measurement for this offset? Any help would be appreciated.....
  5. Recently bought a dirt bike. It was missing the rear wheel spacers, so I cut custom made ones and installed one to each side of the rear wheel. After doing this, the wheel has become extremely tight and does not move freely anymore in neutral and when the bike is off. If i were to ride maybe 10 hours on this, the bearings would become damaged because of how tight the wheel is. I was wondering how to relieve the tension in the wheel? I was thinking of installing an additional wheel spacer to the middle of the wheel hub so it’ll relieve the tension? Would this work?
  6. Hi ! I have a deal on 2 wheel with tire but i wonder if they would fit... so does 2 wheel from a kawasaki kx 80 1995 can fit on a kawasaki kx85 2001 ? Tire size are the same ! Thx !
  7. I'm looking into buying some extra wheels to just swap out when I take my DRZ 400 out to the dirt. They have the stock wheels on it now but have 70% street 30% dirt tires on it right now that just won't cut it out in the dirt. I found some 1982 IT 250 DID from Yamaha but I'm not sure if they'll fit right on or what kind of modifications I would have to make to get it on there. Thanks for help guys!
  8. I've got a 2012 Beta 400RR Enduro and I'm curious if anyone has put a cush drive hub on one or can at least tell me what I need to know. I tend to ride the bike on street to the trail and I've been kicking around this idea to make it a bit more road capable. I've heard that hard-mounted sprockets wear worse when riding on hard surfaces and it can also send more vibration through the trans and wear the gears faster or worse. Does anyone know of a cush hub or whole wheel that would easily transfer to the Beta or any other solution similar to this idea?
  9. I found a complete BW80 roller for 150 bucks. I've always been interested in these fat tire bikes, so I began thinking of a way to fit a built 212 Predator engine in it. After a couple days I began the project. I will be posting images as the project progresses. Feel free to throw some ideas my way, or ask questions. Here we go! So I began with drilling out the tabs behind the original shock mount just to give the shock a little more stiffness. I weight 170, and by doing this it kept me from bottoming out. I do plan on figuring out what size rear shock I can buy that will lift the bike a little more, you'll see why soon enough.
  10. I need some insight on what the differences of an eighteen inch rim are compared to a nineteen inch rim. The bearings on my 01 cr completely went out and busted inside the hub, ruining it. I figured rather than buy a hub and deal with getting the spokes in true id just but a complete rim. i dont have much $$ at the moment and im trying to get to the track by oct 10th. I found a complete rim on ebay but its a nineteen. my CR250 has 14/53 sprocket setup and i was wondering if it would affect my performance or how it would change how the bike delivers power? i dont have money for a new sprocket too atm, what should i do?
  11. I want to know does different dirt bike wheels fit on each other, for example will a crf 250 2009 front wheel fit on a rmz 250 2006 dirt bike ? (or back wheel to)
  12. Does anyone here know of any places that sell seals and or bearings by size or part number? I have a wheel with an aftermarket hub that requires seals and bearings with larger ODs than the OEM Yamaha hubs. In case it matters, the seal size is 25x42x7 (#30-4207) and the bearing size is 25x42x9. FortNine is cheaper to Canada than the wheel vendor in Pennsylvania but I was wondering if anyone knows of cheaper mail-order places in Canada or stores in Ontario. The seals can be generic/non-moto as long as they are the correct size and are "TC" style (double lip, single spring ring).
  13. (At this point my front brake is strong, could do endos) So my front tire pops, I take the wheel off. Take it to a shop, they fix it, I bring it back, put it on the bike, disc slides in without issues, but now my front brake is so weak, and it comes to the handle bar quite easily. So I try to bleed them out, but can’t get them any better than what they were already at when I put the wheel back on. But they were perfect before? So why? It can’t be my pads, this is pissing me off. 06 rmz450
  14. Hey guys, I need some advice. I have a 2019 SM and I noticed some gnarly wear on my wheel spacers. I know it's soft metal, but these gouges are concerning. Can anyone tell me what could be causing this or if this is normal? I've heard mixed things so far, so I really need some expert advice. Bike rides perfectly fine, does not wobble at high speed. Rear wheel is torqued to 72 ft/lb and both bearings and spacers are always cleaned and regreased before being mounted. Wheel bearings look shiny and new and the rubber looks perfect. I routinely swap out the 17" street tires for 18/21 knobbies to go offroad, which is how I noticed this. The spacers do not interchange between wheelsets, so I'm positive they're the correct set for the SM rear wheel. Any help would be appreciated.
  15. I recently bout a 17 ktm 50sx off of another owner. At first the ktm rode fine, and the tire somewhat free spun. After a couple of rides the rear wheel started to have some drag. I noticed at that time the rear brake was sticking. So I changed out the rear brake pads, then later the disk. After resolving those issues it didn’t take long before the rear wheel started to drag again. Now the rear wheel has no free spin. I’m wondering if the clutches need changed? Or a bearing issue? I took off the chain and the tire freely spins, so whatever the case is something internally with clutch or a bearing of some sort... please help
  16. I just pulled the rear tire off my drz-400s to replace and these nipples look pretty damn rusty. Should I replace them, or just duct tape 'em back up and call it good?
  17. Bought this bike used a few months ago and it was dark out so i didnt notice this crack in the rear hub. Its on the sprocket side. Ive been riding on it for for months like this and the crack hasnt widened or spread at all. Not sure what to do. Wheels are VERY expensive for this bike. See attached pics. replacing the wheel would involve me setting the offset and Truing and everything which would be my first time doing so, So im a bit nervous. if i do replace would this wheel work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Warp-9-Racing-Wheel-Assembly-Rear-SM-4-25-x-17-/203082994931?_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:AQAFAAACQBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkZ%2F%2B%2BjiCUbgvzhyyof3jXZImghya5nEYeCSGpRoKGyxggFptQigOK5bcC1c35q4g3KfSUpDLtwQKVYGJxLvVF39eqxlTdsXsLmCsv4rlqXYS585Xjj4qcxqZB1YXkaznMzILBMu%2Btm0lXxIEYOVPs0CwcTVCsMQztXqIpW%2FHfrsIHq8hEdVJnojX35mqP91Ws2%2BCiyZNPnZjKH9JT0rVV%2FdrPhUWM0wS%2Fwsf0967CuaZHSaIJUr11wA1FUusReOUJsMiXCo0MHdZ8iBfllfyfR%2BIaJue0pVrThwV2wCytEWJyNB7FEsQsyXQB7BnvMD8L7JRVCZSJX4qYizd6f3XSYhNA5WtyZVM7TLg9poSzIa3%2FpAmnntzMxkvvGXIR%2FQFodUVv6b8ixkIZ1JSAKsS7t0u0ULF9a6vyZpjiXA%2B1a%2FM8I8vcNmDlqFS5wNC28tXE6evRJuBVAStcjcRnyXFD5y9K7OdL6eO47ygED%2BLCuy64KNLP1H9ZJwlCtqoMZKAWrIisy7DVUtHjzC5WiyO52cqySioDOXixpa82dYQeZ0YnqYGaQu393N0Wk%2BLlCe%2Fs%2B77GIJ%2Bi3d4W2fXIJOhFyGMB0w8yZ5gCt4y3yK%2BH8JTKo2bzvqR8dGhC%2FkjSXnvb1rIvoBqNItfVpNu3ED0JPsqILgEMpXJf9sPjDWERX63JO%2B5VpxQkLEA6JL7E%2BuTwSZPVWh2IW1sNN5wAOGIjAw%3D%3D%7Ccksum:20308299493170f419abae4f4cec81a863c682a9c3f4%7Campid:PL_CLK%7Cclp:3268220&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=203082994931&targetid=1192081307704&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=21143&campaignid=11774733487&mkgroupid=113829509425&rlsatarget=pla-1192081307704&abcId=9300474&merchantid=118949009&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6Pibua2u7wIVUr7ACh0QCgxKEAQYCSABEgIdUfD_BwE&pageci=64794503-fa44-4bce-8f8e-239a0d1d78fe
  18. So i know there are lots of discussions about stuck wheel bearings, but my problem might be a little worse. My hub is completely frozen onto the shaft, bearings and all. I've tried everything from pounding, heat, and a gear puller. but even better, my hub is also stuck onto my A-arm, neither of the spindles will seperate. I know everything is off that is supposed to be off, and the only thing i can remove is the A-arm from the quad. And lastly i cant just keep the old bearing in because my hub is damaged. I'm thinking the guy who owned it thought "i should JB weld them on so they don't fall off". Yes that's literally the only logical conclusion i can come to, its that stuck. if you have an idea, please help. Otherwise should i just bring it to a shop? if so what kind because i just rebuilt the top end and and dont want to spend tons of money. how much do you think this will cost? And i don't want to have to replace the A-arm because they are an expensive aftermarket pair. Also, the reason i have the theory about the previous owner; he has a record of forgetting things like washers on one head bolt, or sealing the head with silicone seal, or striping out the oil drain plug. Yea that guy is an idiot But anyways if you guys can give me some input, maybe you have had a similar problem or sum, at this point anything helps. Thank you (Its a 2008 polaris outlaw 450 with rath A-arms) not a ton of hours either
  19. I have the 2017 fx450 before this I'm going to change the front and rear wheels to the super motor wheel. But because I hate spokes wheels, I'm going to change to a casting wheel. I need some information for you.
  20. Hey all, First time posting so I apologize if I do something incorrectly. I recently purchased a 2016 DRZ400SM. After riding the bike for a few hundred miles, I noticed that an oscillating vibration developed between the speeds of 30-60 MPH. The vibration was vertical, and seemed to vibrate for 1-1.5 second intervals. I had fresh Dunlop Q3+ tires installed by the previous owner. Even though the balance of the wheels appeared to be spot-on, I removed the weights and rebalanced both wheels. This did nothing to solve my problem. I then checked the runout of the wheels, and the front appeared to be considerably out of round, both on the rim and the tire. I took the front to a local dealership where they trued the wheel, however there was a significant amount of uneven vertical runout on the tire itself, which I assumed to be from the wheel being out of round. I replaced both the front and rear Q3+ with brand new Michelin Pilot Power 2CTs. After riding for about 200 miles, I am beginning to notice uneven vertical runout forming on the brand new front 2CT. While not as pronounced now as it was with the old Q3+, I am beginning to notice that same vibration that I noticed before. I took the front wheel back to the dealership where it was trued, and the showed me that the rim is still (as far as I can tell) perfectly true. There are no obvious deformities in the wheel itself, I am positive both the front and rear wheels are properly balanced, and I am running reasonable tire pressures (26 front/28 rear). So now my question is- what should I try next to solve this problem?
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