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Found 23 results

  1. Hello TT peeps. I currently have an 11' Ktm 450 exc which i am converting to sumo. Still on the fence about getting cush drive rims or standard rims. Not too much info on what cush drive does for wheelies. I know its smoother on the tranny and chain but will it make much of a difference with slower wheelies/stunting? I had a DRZ with standard rims and slower wheelies were very choppy and almost impossible to control smoothly. Any advice/tips/help will be much appreciated. 🙄 Also.... will 5" rims be pushing it for chain rub? Should i just stick with 4.25"?
  2. I have a 1989 RM250 that I just finished rebuilding and I have some questions about the gearing and torque. First off, I am 6'2 and 225lbs if that makes a difference. Right now it has a very good top speed and decent acceleration with the 50/13 or 3.84/1 gearing ratio it has right now. As a track bike it feels OK but because I do a lot of trail and enduro riding and need to be able to pick up the front end a bit easier to get it over logs and such. I prefer to stay away from clutch wheelies if I can so even if I crack the throttle in 1st the front wheel only likes to raise a few inches off the ground and I cant sustain a wheelie like I can on my 83 KDX175. I was planning to re-gear the bike with a 54 tooth on the back. I am hoping this can be changed with the gearing ratios and its not a power valve or carb problem. I am hoping that this would up the torque a bit but I am new to re-gearing and I don't know If it would be a big enough difference on the trail. If anyone knows anything about the topic I would appreciate any information.
  3. Hello, i see many factors can make wheelies easier such as tire pressure, bald tire or maybe the positioning of ( handle-bar, brake pedal or shifting lever ). Anyone has any setup to make wheelie On a dirtbike easier plz share it here. this is not how to wheelie thread!! This is about achieving the best setup for a better control on a wheelie. For example, i just bought a yz450f 2016 and i am struggling with side to side balance past balance point. Got better when lowered the tire pressure but still struggling a bit!
  4. I have had success with some other forums here on TT, so I decided to see if ya'll can solve one of my biggest problems: wheelies. I don't care about trying to hold a wheelie, or get good at them (not yet anyways) because I can't even get the front off the ground in the first place. I get that wheelies take a ton of practice, and I am not going to become Graham Jarvis over night, but I can't start learning how to wheelie if I can't get the front up in the first place. Here is the situation: I ride mainly desert stuff, anything from technical single track to wide-open sand washes, but no matter what soil I get in I can't get enough traction for a wheelie. I have tried in every type of terrain there is (on the west coast) and can never get the front up even an inch. I have tried on my 2018 husky TE250, my 2012 CRF250R, and my friends FE501 (derestricted and has a rekluse, my buddy says he can't stop the front from coming up because of the rekluse) and I haven't had any luck at all. My biggest problem appears to be traction (I ride on wide hybrid tires, so this shouldn't be a problem) because when I give it gas the tire either spins or the bike stalls. I haven't been able to find the sweet spot where the bike doesn't stall and I still get traction. I have spent hours of practice just trying to get the front up a bit, and the most I've been able to do is de-weight it a bit. I know the problem is in my technique, even though I am a bit small for the bike (but really not that small for it) I have seen 13 yr olds wheelie 450s no problem. I just can't get traction, since in order to get traction I have to give the bike less gas and any less gas and it just stalls. I can lift the front easily (and even hold a wheelie for a bit) if I use a kicker with a bit of speed, but the technique doesn't seem to transfer over to simply lifting for me. TL:DR I can't wheelie because my tire either slips or the bike stalls. I can not find the sweet spot that gives traction and delivers power to the ground. when I say "can't wheelie", I mean that I cannot lift the front wheel even an inch off the ground (not exaggerating, I am just that bad).
  5. Hi guys, my dirty little secret is that I was terrified of wheelies but also really wanted to learn and improve. I looked around for a system or tool to possibly help and what I discovered is that wasn't really anything, until I found these guys. I reach out and asked if I could test it to see if was worth the investment and more importantly see if it would help me practice safely and accelerate my learning curve. After only two session I went from 5 foot wheelies to 75 feet wheelies and also it really help me find the balance point. I still have a ways to go but I wanted to share how innovative and a quality product this is if your looking to safely improve your wheelies on a motorcycle or motorbike. So whether you just want to learn how to wheelie or want to practice how to wheelie this system or tool helps you progress your wheelie because it has different settings that you can adjust and your wheelie skills progress. Here my review showing the product brief install and then into the practicing and some advice etc. I hope someone finds this helpful, I sure as heck did! Braaap! https://youtu.be/QKY10fQa6tg
  6. Me enjoying my favorite little bike
  7. So I'm wondering if anyone has any tips on wheeling a 110, I can't get my ttr 110's wheel of the ground with out putting my feet on e ground. Even then it only lasts for a second. Anyone have Any tips? Thanks
  8. Hi everyone, Really hoping for some advice on how other people have their 625 set up, and their experience with both the R&D Power Bowl 2 (or alternatives, though I feel the Boyensen Quickshots don't get the same reviews - and I'm not spending my money on gimmicks.) My specs - KTM 625 SMC 2007, 16,800 MILES. Titanium Akrapovic - twin slip on Stock header KTM airbox mod - steel cover with gauze 16-38 gearing (P/o had it 17-38) 188# main jet. This is it as far as I'm aware. So - it's a quick bike don't get me wrong, and I love the noise it makes, the torque and generally the character of the bike. But the 'light front wheel' everyone describes in 1,2,3 gears, I only experience in 1st. Short back story - I bought the bike and due to UK licence restrictions I had to put a carb disk into the inlet to restrict the power (by air flow). This meant the bike ran so damn rich it would bog at any more than 1/5 throttle. This didn't last long, I passed my test and took it out. My friend adjusted the fuel screw to make it a little leaner when the disk was in, and readjusted it when the disk came out, with the words 'its probably really rich how I've left it, but it's better than lean'. So I know my fuel economy isn't great, and the bike has good power, but this 188# main jet that's fitted sounds too rich. Most guys are saying between 170-182 and I'm planning to get it dynod and set up - I want it spot on. But I'm here to complain about the throttle response - the sharp wrench of the throttle seems to not have much power. I don't race this bike, and I don't take it to the track even, but I do want to get the best out of the carb. Second gear wheelies don't happen for me, let alone third. I don't really want to be trying to pull wheelies using techniques like clutch up, but the power wheelies you get, Only thing is - I just found out from the P/o that the bike hasn't had it's valve clearances checked since around 2500 of its 16,800 miles. I'm also concerned the spark plug is really due a change especially after all the rich running. So I need advice on the three solutions here - Servicing, analysis and re-jetting, and mods. I plan to take it for a proper service. I plan to get the carb cleaned and re-jetted (after dyno analysis), and I had been looking at the R&D powerbowl. However this is £180 ($250) and equals nearly the full cost of servicing and carb work. I hear some amazing reviews: 'tranforms the bike', 'how do people own bikes with FCR carbs and not own this' , 'how do people ride without this', and then I hear 'why do people turn to over-priced bolt on parts rather than a proper re-jet', and 'why do people refuse to rejet their bikes correctly, and use gimmicks instead'. But I'd rather not spend that money, as for example it equals a new set of tires down the road in summer when I've worn the current ones down. I've also got my eye on some tech7's, my current boots are &%$#@!ed. So what's the verdict? Will the carb rejet solve the issues, or only partially? If so, is there a cheaper alternative to the R&D Powerbowl that definitely does work? When I take it to the performance shop and run it on the dyno, will the mechanic need a JD jet kit to fully tune the carb? Or will a selection of jets suffice? And which ones? I appreciate any advice, I just want to get the bike running how it should, without throwing money at it. It just feels like it should accelerate with more urgency... After all that's why I have a supermoto!
  9. I have a 2013 ktm 250sxf, sweet bike and all but whenever I go to do a wheelie/practice them ive been told by multiple different youtube videos to use the clutch pull it in and give it gas all in one motion. Well I go to do that in like 2nd gear and it doesn't even do that much justice as they made it sound in the video, like I could get up in the wheelie just as easy without the clutch. I have tried it in 3rd gear as well and same thing doesn't seem like the clutch is doing anything, and the bike runs perfectly fine as well. Any tips for the wheelies or suggestions to why this isnt working? It is a hydraulic clutch by the way so maybe that has something to do with it?
  10. So i got a 1990 xr200r. Do i need to worry about starving the engine of oil when wheeling? Also if im not moving fast how do i keep my bike cool because its aircooled? Im not going fast and i dont wanna blow it up a few miles into trails lol. Thank you everyone. Hope yall have a good day or night
  11. Hello all! I have everything setup and ready to go. I did the S to SM swingarm conversion, and I was lucky enough to have a friend that gave me 2 of the 50 stunt dual piston calipers for free off his bike after he sold it. All I need now is the bracket, a master, and a line, but this is where I want to be sure I make a good choice. I was thinking about going with the Dominator clutch cap on top of the brembo master cylinder.. But I am not sure how much adjustment there is on that. What would you guys recommend for the a stunt clutch/master setup? I do have the short impaktech clutch lever on currently, is there a good master that will fit with my clutch? All input is appreciated! Even trolling for a good laugh. lmao Thanks everyone!
  12. so i just bought a 120cc pitter and practiced wheelies for about a week. Im already good at wheelies on my bicycle and can hold a balance point wheelie using rear brake for a solid 30 seconds. but on my pitter i can get up to balance point but my body just wont let me tap my rear brake when i need it. the only reason i dont loop out every time is because i drop the throttle and let engine brake take over. im not always so lucky tho
  13. Whats up guys. I am wondering if I should upgrade my Drz400, or just sell ot and get a Wr450? Some background: I have a 2000 Drz400 (kickstart ONLY) that I street legaled. The updrades it needs are: > New clutch pack = ..?(want oem so prob. An arm&leg) > Clutch cable = 14.00 > Steel braided brake line = 43.00 > Rear caliper rebuild kit = 19.00 > Rear brake pads = 16.00 > Carb rebuild kit = 50.00 > Upgraded headlight = ..? (Any suggestions?) > Possibly sumo wheels $145.00 without the clutch pack, headlight, or wheels. I will also need to upgrade or refurb. the rear shock at some point. I am wondering if it is worth going all out with the Drz, or switching to a wr or yz? I like that my bike has the updraded cams and carb already and the reliability factor. I also like the weight and extra power of the wr/yz. I just don't know how long they will last before rebuild and general maintenance vs the Drz. So, what do y'all think? Thanks
  14. Looking to see some Supermoto action on this forum. Post Pictures of your Supermoto 🔥 Here is my 2018 Husqvarna FE450 Supermoto ✊🏻 The White Dillard 🇧🇲
  15. I am a young man who loves and likes SuperMoto. In foreign countries, not Korea, culture and eyes are developed to create a good environment. Not in Korea. So I have a lot of difficulties running YouTube. I want you guys to give me a little time to help me. It's my channel. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5AvGz7FA5f7XS0-dLCVVqw?view_as=subscriber
  16. Made a little video of me riding some new trails we discovered, I had no clue where I was going. But I found out a way to ride a pretty fun loop to practice for woods races on. Check the video out, feedback is appreciated
  17. So I found 2 different stunt cages that I'd like. They have two different mou ting options, and I am curious as to which one would be better! You can see, one mounts high. The other mounts high as well as low to the frame and swingarm. Both wiukd be in black. Just curious as to which would be better, and offer a better crash protection.
  18. TL DR - looking for a small fun bike. Want reliability, speeds of under 70, and easy wheeliability. After recently getting into an accident going 70 on my drz400e supermoto, my family thinks its time for me to hang it up. I don't want to, but also want to respect their concern to an extent. My plan is to downsize to something just as fun (close to it at least) but less intimidating for them. My options so far are a grom, crf 150, 110, zuma 125 scooter and anything else y'all can think of. I'm looking for something light, reliable, isn't made to go above 70, and fun (love doing wheelies, safely of course). I don't mind street legaling a bike as I live in TX and its pretty easy. I love the size and weight of the 150 but am questioning reliability. Love the reliability of the grom but really want something a tiny bit bigger and more dirt bike orientated. I just think the zumas are funny and look like a good time, same with the pitties. What do y'all think? Just play it safe and go with a grom, or is the 150 reliable enough for damn near everyday street use? Thanks for the advice, stay safe.
  19. Hi everyone, I've also posted this in the jetting pages... Not sure if it's standard practice to repost in a couple of relevant sections. If not let me know and I'll remove a post. Really hoping for some advice on how other people have their 625 set up, and their experience with both the R&D Power Bowl 2 (or alternatives, though I feel the Boyensen Quickshots don't get the same reviews - and I'm not spending my money on gimmicks.) My specs - KTM 625 SMC 2007, 16,800 MILES. Titanium Akrapovic - twin slip on Stock header KTM airbox mod - steel cover with gauze 16-38 gearing (P/o had it 17-38) 188# main jet. This is it as far as I'm aware. So - it's a quick bike don't get me wrong, and I love the noise it makes, the torque and generally the character of the bike. But the 'light front wheel' everyone describes in 1,2,3 gears, I only experience in 1st. Short back story - I bought the bike and due to UK licence restrictions I had to put a carb disk into the inlet to restrict the power (by air flow). This meant the bike ran so damn rich it would bog at any more than 1/5 throttle. This didn't last long, I passed my test and took it out. My friend adjusted the fuel screw to make it a little leaner when the disk was in, and readjusted it when the disk came out, with the words 'its probably really rich how I've left it, but it's better than lean'. So I know my fuel economy isn't great, and the bike has good power, but this 188# main jet that's fitted sounds too rich. Most guys are saying between 170-182 and I'm planning to get it dynod and set up - I want it spot on. But I'm here to complain about the throttle response - the sharp wrench of the throttle seems to not have much power. I don't race this bike, and I don't take it to the track even, but I do want to get the best out of the carb. Second gear wheelies don't happen for me, let alone third. I don't really want to be trying to pull wheelies using techniques like clutch up, but the power wheelies you get, Only thing is - I just found out from the P/o that the bike hasn't had it's valve clearances checked since around 2500 of its 16,800 miles. I'm also concerned the spark plug is really due a change especially after all the rich running. So I need advice on the three solutions here - Servicing, analysis and re-jetting, and mods. I plan to take it for a proper service. I plan to get the carb cleaned and re-jetted (after dyno analysis), and I had been looking at the R&D powerbowl. However this is £180 ($250) and equals nearly the full cost of servicing and carb work. I hear some amazing reviews: 'tranforms the bike', 'how do people own bikes with FCR carbs and not own this' , 'how do people ride without this', and then I hear 'why do people turn to over-priced bolt on parts rather than a proper re-jet', and 'why do people refuse to rejet their bikes correctly, and use gimmicks instead'. But I'd rather not spend that money, as for example it equals a new set of tires down the road in summer when I've worn the current ones down. I've also got my eye on some tech7's, my current boots are &%$#@!ed. So what's the verdict? Will the carb rejet solve the issues, or only partially? If so, is there a cheaper alternative to the R&D Powerbowl that definitely does work? When I take it to the performance shop and run it on the dyno, will the mechanic need a JD jet kit to fully tune the carb? Or will a selection of jets suffice? And which ones? I appreciate any advice, I just want to get the bike running how it should, without throwing money at it. It just feels like it should accelerate with more urgency... After all that's why I have a supermoto!
  20. How to I gain confidence to stand up wheelie? I can get to balance point sitting down, hold it for a bit, and can bring it down with the back brake when I go to far (still learning to tap it gently though). But when it comes to stand up wheelies, I have some trouble. I feel like the farther that it comes up, the more it pulls my body back, hence making me pull the throttle more, etc. How do I bring them up without feeling like I am going to whiskey throttle? Thanks for the help.
  21. Just a couple vids of the riding I've done this season. I hope you enjoy!
  22. I got a 2004 crf50 with a bbr setup, I'm trying to wheelie but Idk how too. (Ik there's a lot of forums out there but they're not explained well. Do I wheelie in 1st or 2nd gear? I don't have enough money to buy 50stunt pegs and 50stunt rear handbrake. So here it is...I'm in a parking lot rolling in first gear I pull up with my feet hanging but I can't hold it. I try to put my feet back on but I always drop the front wheel down. Then there's the times I use 2nd gear wheelies, I pull down and then up and I give it throttle but it doesn't come up at all. What am I doing wrong?
  23. Hello. Looking to get a pit bike. Originally I was looking at a 85 2stroke but I hear they are a lot of work to maintain. Plus pre 2002 are the only greenstickered 2strokes in ca. Tell me I’m wrong, I’d love a 2stroke. So I thought I was settled on the klx110l, but then I saw that a lot of people jump the regular 110. I’ve also heard the 110l is harder to work on? I think clutch would be fun to really learn tight corners and wheelies. Clutch would also be nice to teach friends, but no clutch would be even easier for the lady. Do most pit bike races have clutch separate classes? someone also recommended pitster pro, but are China bikes reliable? Any how, I’m open to different brands and basically all recommendations. Any advice at all is much appreciated. thank you, Cole
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