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Found 11 results

  1. ThrottleTwistFilms

    Exploring Trails

    Made a little video of me riding some new trails we discovered, I had no clue where I was going. But I found out a way to ride a pretty fun loop to practice for woods races on. Check the video out, feedback is appreciated
  2. JacksonDRZbeast

    Cush Drive on 450

    Hello TT peeps. I currently have an 11' Ktm 450 exc which i am converting to sumo. Still on the fence about getting cush drive rims or standard rims. Not too much info on what cush drive does for wheelies. I know its smoother on the tranny and chain but will it make much of a difference with slower wheelies/stunting? I had a DRZ with standard rims and slower wheelies were very choppy and almost impossible to control smoothly. Any advice/tips/help will be much appreciated. Also.... will 5" rims be pushing it for chain rub? Should i just stick with 4.25"?
  3. Supermotofool

    Handbrake / Clutch lever setup

    Hello all! I have everything setup and ready to go. I did the S to SM swingarm conversion, and I was lucky enough to have a friend that gave me 2 of the 50 stunt dual piston calipers for free off his bike after he sold it. All I need now is the bracket, a master, and a line, but this is where I want to be sure I make a good choice. I was thinking about going with the Dominator clutch cap on top of the brembo master cylinder.. But I am not sure how much adjustment there is on that. What would you guys recommend for the a stunt clutch/master setup? I do have the short impaktech clutch lever on currently, is there a good master that will fit with my clutch? All input is appreciated! Even trolling for a good laugh. lmao Thanks everyone!
  4. so i just bought a 120cc pitter and practiced wheelies for about a week. Im already good at wheelies on my bicycle and can hold a balance point wheelie using rear brake for a solid 30 seconds. but on my pitter i can get up to balance point but my body just wont let me tap my rear brake when i need it. the only reason i dont loop out every time is because i drop the throttle and let engine brake take over. im not always so lucky tho
  5. I got a 2004 crf50 with a bbr setup, I'm trying to wheelie but Idk how too. (Ik there's a lot of forums out there but they're not explained well. Do I wheelie in 1st or 2nd gear? I don't have enough money to buy 50stunt pegs and 50stunt rear handbrake. So here it is...I'm in a parking lot rolling in first gear I pull up with my feet hanging but I can't hold it. I try to put my feet back on but I always drop the front wheel down. Then there's the times I use 2nd gear wheelies, I pull down and then up and I give it throttle but it doesn't come up at all. What am I doing wrong?
  6. Fsxfisherman1

    Stand-up wheelie tips

    How to I gain confidence to stand up wheelie? I can get to balance point sitting down, hold it for a bit, and can bring it down with the back brake when I go to far (still learning to tap it gently though). But when it comes to stand up wheelies, I have some trouble. I feel like the farther that it comes up, the more it pulls my body back, hence making me pull the throttle more, etc. How do I bring them up without feeling like I am going to whiskey throttle? Thanks for the help.
  7. Hi everyone, I've also posted this in the jetting pages... Not sure if it's standard practice to repost in a couple of relevant sections. If not let me know and I'll remove a post. Really hoping for some advice on how other people have their 625 set up, and their experience with both the R&D Power Bowl 2 (or alternatives, though I feel the Boyensen Quickshots don't get the same reviews - and I'm not spending my money on gimmicks.) My specs - KTM 625 SMC 2007, 16,800 MILES. Titanium Akrapovic - twin slip on Stock header KTM airbox mod - steel cover with gauze 16-38 gearing (P/o had it 17-38) 188# main jet. This is it as far as I'm aware. So - it's a quick bike don't get me wrong, and I love the noise it makes, the torque and generally the character of the bike. But the 'light front wheel' everyone describes in 1,2,3 gears, I only experience in 1st. Short back story - I bought the bike and due to UK licence restrictions I had to put a carb disk into the inlet to restrict the power (by air flow). This meant the bike ran so damn rich it would bog at any more than 1/5 throttle. This didn't last long, I passed my test and took it out. My friend adjusted the fuel screw to make it a little leaner when the disk was in, and readjusted it when the disk came out, with the words 'its probably really rich how I've left it, but it's better than lean'. So I know my fuel economy isn't great, and the bike has good power, but this 188# main jet that's fitted sounds too rich. Most guys are saying between 170-182 and I'm planning to get it dynod and set up - I want it spot on. But I'm here to complain about the throttle response - the sharp wrench of the throttle seems to not have much power. I don't race this bike, and I don't take it to the track even, but I do want to get the best out of the carb. Second gear wheelies don't happen for me, let alone third. I don't really want to be trying to pull wheelies using techniques like clutch up, but the power wheelies you get, Only thing is - I just found out from the P/o that the bike hasn't had it's valve clearances checked since around 2500 of its 16,800 miles. I'm also concerned the spark plug is really due a change especially after all the rich running. So I need advice on the three solutions here - Servicing, analysis and re-jetting, and mods. I plan to take it for a proper service. I plan to get the carb cleaned and re-jetted (after dyno analysis), and I had been looking at the R&D powerbowl. However this is £180 ($250) and equals nearly the full cost of servicing and carb work. I hear some amazing reviews: 'tranforms the bike', 'how do people own bikes with FCR carbs and not own this' , 'how do people ride without this', and then I hear 'why do people turn to over-priced bolt on parts rather than a proper re-jet', and 'why do people refuse to rejet their bikes correctly, and use gimmicks instead'. But I'd rather not spend that money, as for example it equals a new set of tires down the road in summer when I've worn the current ones down. I've also got my eye on some tech7's, my current boots are &%$#@!ed. So what's the verdict? Will the carb rejet solve the issues, or only partially? If so, is there a cheaper alternative to the R&D Powerbowl that definitely does work? When I take it to the performance shop and run it on the dyno, will the mechanic need a JD jet kit to fully tune the carb? Or will a selection of jets suffice? And which ones? I appreciate any advice, I just want to get the bike running how it should, without throwing money at it. It just feels like it should accelerate with more urgency... After all that's why I have a supermoto!
  8. Hi guys, my dirty little secret is that I was terrified of wheelies but also really wanted to learn and improve. I looked around for a system or tool to possibly help and what I discovered is that wasn't really anything, until I found these guys. I reach out and asked if I could test it to see if was worth the investment and more importantly see if it would help me practice safely and accelerate my learning curve. After only two session I went from 5 foot wheelies to 75 feet wheelies and also it really help me find the balance point. I still have a ways to go but I wanted to share how innovative and a quality product this is if your looking to safely improve your wheelies on a motorcycle or motorbike. So whether you just want to learn how to wheelie or want to practice how to wheelie this system or tool helps you progress your wheelie because it has different settings that you can adjust and your wheelie skills progress. Here my review showing the product brief install and then into the practicing and some advice etc. I hope someone finds this helpful, I sure as heck did! Braaap! https://youtu.be/QKY10fQa6tg
  9. Schwartz2M5

    my xr50

    Me enjoying my favorite little bike
  10. ThePhantom157

    How to wheelie a 110?

    So I'm wondering if anyone has any tips on wheeling a 110, I can't get my ttr 110's wheel of the ground with out putting my feet on e ground. Even then it only lasts for a second. Anyone have Any tips? Thanks
  11. Hi everyone, Really hoping for some advice on how other people have their 625 set up, and their experience with both the R&D Power Bowl 2 (or alternatives, though I feel the Boyensen Quickshots don't get the same reviews - and I'm not spending my money on gimmicks.) My specs - KTM 625 SMC 2007, 16,800 MILES. Titanium Akrapovic - twin slip on Stock header KTM airbox mod - steel cover with gauze 16-38 gearing (P/o had it 17-38) 188# main jet. This is it as far as I'm aware. So - it's a quick bike don't get me wrong, and I love the noise it makes, the torque and generally the character of the bike. But the 'light front wheel' everyone describes in 1,2,3 gears, I only experience in 1st. Short back story - I bought the bike and due to UK licence restrictions I had to put a carb disk into the inlet to restrict the power (by air flow). This meant the bike ran so damn rich it would bog at any more than 1/5 throttle. This didn't last long, I passed my test and took it out. My friend adjusted the fuel screw to make it a little leaner when the disk was in, and readjusted it when the disk came out, with the words 'its probably really rich how I've left it, but it's better than lean'. So I know my fuel economy isn't great, and the bike has good power, but this 188# main jet that's fitted sounds too rich. Most guys are saying between 170-182 and I'm planning to get it dynod and set up - I want it spot on. But I'm here to complain about the throttle response - the sharp wrench of the throttle seems to not have much power. I don't race this bike, and I don't take it to the track even, but I do want to get the best out of the carb. Second gear wheelies don't happen for me, let alone third. I don't really want to be trying to pull wheelies using techniques like clutch up, but the power wheelies you get, Only thing is - I just found out from the P/o that the bike hasn't had it's valve clearances checked since around 2500 of its 16,800 miles. I'm also concerned the spark plug is really due a change especially after all the rich running. So I need advice on the three solutions here - Servicing, analysis and re-jetting, and mods. I plan to take it for a proper service. I plan to get the carb cleaned and re-jetted (after dyno analysis), and I had been looking at the R&D powerbowl. However this is £180 ($250) and equals nearly the full cost of servicing and carb work. I hear some amazing reviews: 'tranforms the bike', 'how do people own bikes with FCR carbs and not own this' , 'how do people ride without this', and then I hear 'why do people turn to over-priced bolt on parts rather than a proper re-jet', and 'why do people refuse to rejet their bikes correctly, and use gimmicks instead'. But I'd rather not spend that money, as for example it equals a new set of tires down the road in summer when I've worn the current ones down. I've also got my eye on some tech7's, my current boots are &%$#@!ed. So what's the verdict? Will the carb rejet solve the issues, or only partially? If so, is there a cheaper alternative to the R&D Powerbowl that definitely does work? When I take it to the performance shop and run it on the dyno, will the mechanic need a JD jet kit to fully tune the carb? Or will a selection of jets suffice? And which ones? I appreciate any advice, I just want to get the bike running how it should, without throwing money at it. It just feels like it should accelerate with more urgency... After all that's why I have a supermoto!
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