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Found 13 results

  1. To those of you who ride both during summer and winter, how often and which jets do you have to adjust? Let's say you get the jetting bang on during the summer at 30 degrees. How much of a temperature difference is enough to make you re-jet? And if there's a big change in temperature (let's say you want to ride at 0 degrees during the winter, same altitude), which jets do you change? Is it enough to just change the main jet and adjust the air screw, or do you change the main jet, pilot jet and the needle (or the position)? I want to hear from those who have personal experience, concrete examples with jet sizes would be nice. I've read many tutorials on jetting, but most of them just tell you how to adjust the jetting right now, not the things I mentioned.
  2. It is cold cold COLD. I needed to do something so I studied my manual and made one change. N8RW, everything else is my warm weather set up even the air screw and clip position. I've been running it from 0 deg. F up to about 14 deg. F in the video below and it runs just like it does in warm weather. Even the burble or whatever is the same! It feels really good, curious what you guys think. Try not to laugh at the carhart riding gear and the empty rain-x jugs! they work.
  3. Hello all! I winter-commute cross-town in my city; Uppsala, Sweden. Our city loves salting the roads in the winter. So much so that the chain and sprockets on my winter-commuter basically needs a bi-yearly replacement. It's either that, or face a chain sandwiched in three layers around the front-sprocket, much like what happened this year in early spring at rush-hour... No amount of cleaning and oiling the chain helps unfortunately. Besides, a daily wash with kerosene and re-oiling is just not practical when the thermometer shows -15 centrigrades... Flushing the chain with water daily to get rid of the salt, is obviously not a solution in winter for physical reasons (the whole effing bike freezes in an icy armour...). Replacing chains and sprockets bi-yearly is a cost that runs up fast, so even if a stainless-steel chain would be more expensive to buy, I'm thinking it'd still be cheaper in the long run if I could extend the replacement with a year or rather two. However, have you ever heard of stainless steel motorcycle chains? Or are they as rare as the fabled unicorns? Generic rusty motorcycle chain from https://pixabay.com/p-555162/?no_redirect. PS. This is no troll posting. It's a real problem for me. DS.
  4. I purchased a DRZ400S during the summer and had some fun riding it around the dirt planning on getting my license when I get back from college which brings me to the fact that I can't bring it with me or winter ride it. I will be winterizing it. I have done some research on here and elsewhere on the process and understand the basis. My only question is with the chance of faulty petcocks on these bikes (mine appears good as of now but wouldn't put it past it to go out in storage), is it ok to leave the fuel house off and wrapped in some electrical tape or something of the sort as well as the carburator's intake valve just to be safe?
  5. The only other trails we saw were deer and moose! Came across a pack of wolves too but the camera battery had shit the bed 😑
  6. Fall 3 race offroad series at GHORV that is suitable for all skill levels. We will offer a Long Course, Short Course and Kids Course all designed for the skill level. Round 1 starts next Sunday October 8th. Long course is a 7.2 mile loop, Short Course is 6.4 mile loop, Kids 9-12 is 1.5 mile, and 8 and under is .7 hope to see you there.
  7. Okay so I absolutely hate taking my carb off to jet it, especially in the winter when I may only ride it once or twice when there isn't enough snow for the sleds. What if instead of jetting for the winter, I just restrict the air box in order to counteract the increased density of the air and lean condition by idk duct taping a side or a half shut? Seems like it should work right?
  8. Ready for flight! Installed my GL winter hand guards on the 500. I've used these guards on several bikes now and they are great for below 30 deg riding. I've used several other brands that didn't hold up over time, the GL guards are legit and hold up extremely well (this is the 3rd bike this set has been on). Very tough and resilient. Just to answer a couple questions...no they don't catch wind and yank the bike all over, no they don't adversely affect handling, they DO help keep your hands warm and dry during the winter months, they DO look odd but I'll trade that for warm hands . They attach to the bike with the GL polyurethane possibilities straps (note: I always drill a hole and pin the GL guards to the bikes handguards to keep them securely in place and to keep from having to constantly readjust them). If your looking for warmth I'd highly recommend the GL guards for wet/winter riding. And there you have it.....KTM 500 Dumbo edition lol. Mounting hole that I added...keeps the guards in one place and is easily removable. Hodakaguy
  9. I'm changing my oil for the winter. Bike is going to be in a cold but dry garage DRZ 400SM QUESTION: After I change my oil can I still put a hundred km's on before storing or have I defeated the purpose of oil change? Is oil meant to be changed and not used at all prior to storage? The reason being is I am changing my oil in a separate garage from where I am storing it so the new oil will get a little use out of it in the ride to storage unit Thank you! Also Im using a couple of ounces of motor oil instead of fogging oil........if this is life or death chime in BUT it doesn't seem to be a big deal...at least not with the thousands of arguments currently happening - as I type - about fogging oil vs regular oil, chain lube vs gear oil...and the oh so controversial pressure washing your bike argument....and not to mention climate change and dolphin extinction......if fogging oil wont bring world peace.....why bother right?
  10. Just bought a 2007 YZ250, my first 2 stroke. Want to stud the tires and ride it through the winter. Elevation is about 300m above sea level. Temperature ranges 0 to -20 degrees Celcius. What should I jet it at for these temperatures? Do I change needle position also? Not sure what current jetting is, oil ratio is 32:1 and tons of spooge out the exhaust pipe. Thanks!
  11. I've just bought some ice tires and I was thinking about taking a ride in the snow, I'm woundering if there's anything I need to prepare/do before I ride or if there's anything specific to keep in mind while riding? bike is a KX250F 2015 btw. Any advice is appreciated. As for the riding conditions, It's about 0 degrees C and the snow is about a foot deep of powder and there's some hard packed snow underneath. (Sorry for my bad writing english is not my native language.)
  12. Hello I am storing my recently bought 2003 yz125 for my first winter ever of owning a dirt bike. I looked at some videos and articles to know how to store a motorcycle in winter for the best survivability of the bike and I saw that some people suggest to spray some fogging oil in the air intake directly while runing the engine OR put a teaspoon of engine oil in the spark plug hole and crank the kickstart a bit to coat the inside of the cylinder with oil so it dosen't rust and all. Is this really necessary? I was thinking because my bike is a two stroke, and it ran with a 32:1 yamalube mix it should have already got its fair share of oil in the cylinder right? Also, is using a stand high enough so the wheels don't touch the ground really an important thing? People say its gonna mess with the suspension and flaten the tires otherwise, is that really something that could happen? I use a standard triangle stand but I go mess with the bike at least once a week so is this really going to be a thing for me? Thanks in advance. If ever you have good tips for winter storage let me know, I am all ears.
  13. The start of the budget build on my 2017 SSR 125!
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