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Found 41 results

  1. Joe Schmoe

    TE511 Turn Signal Wiring

    Hi Everyone, So I recently picked up my new 2013 TE511 ! Very excited, but I do have a problem. When I bought the bike from the owner he used it for off trail riding only and took off the turn signals / license plate. He said 'all you'd need to do is hook it up'. No problem I thought, right?! Well turns out I took off the headlight to expose the electricals but I think he pulled out quite a few wires and the flasher module. Can anyone take a look below and let me know what these taped up wires go to and how to hook up the lights? Do I need a three pin flasher module or a two pin? One of the photos shows the entire area with the missing flasher module in the top right. Another Image shows two sets of 'blue wire, brown wire'. There is a close up of a yellow, red, and black wire taped off. Lastly, there is the photo of the green, black, white wires coming from one of the turn signals. How do I hook this up?
  2. Jon Stewart

    DR250 Simple Wiring Diagram

    Hi all. I had a hell of a time trying to find a wiring diagram for my bike so I rewired it and here's the diagram if it might help somebody. It's a 1994 (ish) DR250 (possibly a jap import djebel) with kick start only and no battery. The loom I made has all lights and brakelights but no idiot lights or indicators. Just a simple stripped-back electrical system.
  3. I have a 2007 klx250s, and had a leak in my non-fill radiator, so I bought a used one and stuck it on. However, the temperature gauge that came with the new radiator is a different thread size than mine, and has one wire with a bullet connector, where for some reason my existing one has two wires. I tried sticking each of the two wires into the bullet connector to test for a reading, but it was left blank for both. Anyone know why there are two wires, or what I can do to fix this issue? First picture is my old gauge, second is the new one
  4. WheelieWIll

    R6 Switch on 2012-2015 Wr450f

    Installed a combined start/kill switch from an R6 to my 2015 Wr450f today. Makes the bars look much cleaner in my opinion. I didn't wire it the conventional way, which had 2 problems. The conventional way has the R6 kill switch attached to the Wr's kill switch wires. This makes the flip switch on the bars reversed. So on is off and off is on. Also, you still would need to press the ignition switch by the dashboard to start the bike, which I didn't like. Here's how I did it: So, I attached the R6 kill switch (both pink wires) to the red and brown wire coming out of the original ignition button on the Wr. Leaving the other yellow and brown wire attached will preserve your low fuel light. Next, cut off the Wr's original starter button, and attach the 2 black wires to the R6 starter switch (black and blue wires). Now it's done. Flipping the switch to the run position will prime the fuel pump, and pressing the start button will start it up as normal. It overall looks cleaner and puts all of the buttons in one place. Here's a quick demonstration.
  5. I recently have been wanting to put a led light bar on my yz125 for night riding. I've looked everywhere for wiring diagrams and can't seem to find anything that makes sense to me. I purchased a 45watt stator from electrexworld and I have installed it but I can't figure out how to hook my light bar to it. There are two yellow wires that come out of the plug and I don't know what to do with them. Can anyone help me or provide me with a wiring diagram? PLEASE!
  6. So I'm just wondering how I would wire up a High/Low beam switch onto the Wr without using the whole tusk lighting kit. Any help would be appreciated.
  7. I would like to turn my 2004 crf250r into a duel sport. It is stock. I would like to put a light bar on the bars, brake light, and blinkers on front and back. I'm not familiar with electrical work or the stator, flywheel, etc. I was thinking about getting a small motorcycle/atv/lawnmower battery and finding somewhere to stick it on the bike and wire all my lights directly to that but that sounds sketchy. I also thought about finding a battery pack (probably lithium) powerful enough to push the lights. But idk where to start. I know I can run it to the stator but idk anything about that. Any information and tips will help me a whole lot. Please and thank you. I just really don't know where to start.
  8. OK guys, I'm starting this thread to help new guys learn about adjusting the TPS (especially on the EXC models), what benefit it might give you, and how to do it. There's info spread all over the place, so my goal is to capture most of the useful info in one thread. Please share your experiences here. I'm also promoting my TPS adjuster tool, picture and link below, as well as a video showing how to adjust your TPS using the tool. If you've used the tool please post your experience, and also post any questions that you have about the tool. http://www.tpstool.com Here is how to adjust your TPS the easy way using this tool: For me, adjusting the TPS combined with desmogging completely eliminated the popping on decel and the burbling at small throttle openings. 0 to 1/3 throttle is now very smooth and so easy to control! Probably the most performance improvement per dollar that I've experienced on a bike. Lets hear your experiences!
  9. I need to replace the plug on the wiring harness that connects to the tank of a YZ450F. I've got the tools to crimp terminals, so installing a spare connector would be easy. However, I can't find it as a separate part, and don't want to buy an entire harness. Any suggestions for finding this part? KTM publishes a list of spare connectors for their bikes, but I could not find anything like this for the Yamaha. Thanks in advance!
  10. metalpedal199

    DRZ 400 brake light issues

    i have a 2002 drz400s with the stock tail light. the running light works but when i go to press the brakes the light doesnt get brighter. ive changed the bulb out and it is still the same. when i turn the parking light on the light does get brighter. ive tried jiggling around some wires but no luck. ive read some other threads saying it could be a switch but im not sure on how to check if the switch is bad. Thanks in advance
  11. ahayto

    Ktm exc wiring help

    Hi all, some help is required. I have bought a Ktm exc200 which i am very happy with. Thr previous owner had removed most of the wiring needed for the lights and horn etc and i want to get it working again so i can get an MOT and green lane it. The instruments still work but it looks like the wire to the rear brake has been cut at the master cylendar. See the attached pic, can anyone tell me what the connectors are for?
  12. Hi everyone and merry chrimbo to all. Ive pretty much finished my resto project and everything’s great apart from the dim lights. I bought the bike with the problem, and thought it would be an easy fix. Nothing seems to fix the fault. So far, I’ve replaced the whole wiring harness, the rear light and wires, brake light switch and wires, front light holder and wires, speedo cable and wires. All 6v bulbs and I even had the light coils checked and replaced. So everything has been done apart from the handlebar switchgear. I had the frame powdercoated, but sanded the main earth point for the harnsess, so it’s a good earth. Even, ground two points of the five engine mounting points away hoping that might help. All the electrics work like they should including the pass light, just dim lights. Has anyone had this problem? Does the engine need to be grounded at every point? I thought if the engine had one good ground that would be enough. Really at a loss with this, and if I can’t sort I have to admit defeat and had it over to an auto electrician 😞
  13. Hi everyone, First time poster long time listener. I picked up a 1977 xl100 project for my wife this week and my intention is to turn make it a strictly off road bike. No lights, kick only just the absolute minimum. The bike as it stands is "missing" its wiring harness as well as it's rec/reg, fuse box, battery tray and more. Assuming that the components I have work(coil, stator, contact breaker), I need to know: -will I need a battery -what other components would I need and or can I do away with. -is a custom wiring harness something a wiring NOOB could build -is there a custom wiring resource
  14. ThumperCurtis

    '99 XR400R Enduro Wiring Updates

    So here is my conundrum - I have wired up my own harness for my enduro package as I did not like the Tusk version with lots of things I did not want or need. I've wired three different bikes and can read the wiring diagrams fine - even designed/built my own 12V harness with capacitor for my 1970 CT70. Back to the issue - everything works with the exception of my 12V aftermarket horn. I tagged off the blue wire for the headlight (headlight works fine) and sent it to the horn button and then to the horn and then grounded back to the wiring harness. When I press the horn button the light dims and the horn barely sounds - meeeep meeeep. I checked the voltage draw and its only like 1.7V to the horn. Just awful and wont pass DMV to get my street license plate. So I put on my thinking cap and drew on my experience with my CT70 (solid state with a capacitor instead of a battery) and I think the absence of a battery is likely the culprit on my XR400 as it typically evens out the voltage draw on the system (similar to the battery) to provide power to all components. So my question is what if I put a 0-25V 22,000uF capacitor (like I used on my CT70) on the White/Yellow wire coming out of the AC regulator that eventually ties into the BLUE wire that feeds the headlight, horn and rear running taillight? Would that provide the stabilization for the voltage draws when I use all of my accessories? Thanks for any help.
  15. I've run a 125cc Lifan engine on my pit bike for around a year now, and it has performed really well. I decided to wire some lights to the bike and I faced some problems. The engine came with all the electric components and wires required for ignition, and it also has a light coil in it from the factory so I thought wiring some lights should be easy. I made a very simple wiring for the headlight and the tail light (picture of the diagram attached) and I used a multimeter to check the connection between ground and the wire just after the regulator. Results were good, switch worked just as I thought. Then I installed the light system to the bikes wires. I read from somewhere that the red wire coming from regulator is a power wire (12V) and can be used for different components like lights. So I went on and connected the red wire from the regulator (which by the way had nothing else attached to it before) to the light system, powered the engine up and I got no light at all. I checked the voltage on the red wire while the bike was running, and it was around 6 volts. This surprised me as the regulator that came with the engine was supposed to be regulating the voltage to 12V. I have a couple questions: How many volts come directly from the yellow light coil wire? is the wiring on my light system wrong or is this all happening just because of the weird regulator? Many thanks!
  16. Hi all, new guy here with lots of questions I have a 2002 wr426 that is mostly street legal, it has headlight, tail light, brake light, and a mirror. I will be using my phone as a speedo for the time being until I get a Trail tech vapor. The last thing I need is a horn. I attempted to wire a spare horn to a R/C battery I had laying around but no dice. I don't know a whole lot about electronics which is why i'm here. I would like to have a 12V battery to make wiring in accessories easier, but I don't know what battery or how to tap into the stater to recharge said battery, even if I had to simply run it total loos and charge it every now and again. I believe the bike has UFO LED brake lights, so there is DC power????? Thanks
  17. WheelieWIll

    Need help with wiring

    So as I'm adding more and more auxiliary accessories to my Wr450f, I'm running out of room on the battery terminals to connect things. I've seen some "power distribution blocks" but they're all made for huge 0 gauge wire. Anybody have any ideas of what I could do? Or something like this, but for much smaller wire. Like 20 gauge.
  18. Yamaha2122

    2009 TTR 230 tail light/brake light wiring

    I bought a tail light/brake light from Rocky Mountain atv for my 2009 TTR 230. I have everything wired together the way I was told to do it but when I turn on the power nothing happens. Maybe I have it wired wrong. 3 wires come out of the light. Red, yellow, and black. The black I used as the ground, The yellow I ran to the brake switch and then to the starter and the red I connected to just the brake switch. This is my first time trying this so it could be very wrong. Anyone know where each wire connects to or if I am missing something? Thanks
  19. I recently bought the universal Tusk Enduro lighting kit for my 2009 Yz250f and the Polisport MMX headlight in hopes of street legalizing my bike, I ordered the kit and the headlight but shortly after found that to connect the compact control switch I need a pre existing headlight and the wiring from the headlight to connect it with, and then the battery that comes with the kit is not said to be powerful enough to power both the headlight and the tail light. Could some one let me know how I can possibly hook up the headlight separately or possibly a larger battery I could use to power both the headlight and taillight easily?
  20. edmuliz

    New DR350, several different questions!

    Hi guys! I have just bought my 1996 DR 350SE and I'm super happy about it! This will be my second moto after Aprilia RS 125 I'm preparing it for 'technical inspection' on Tuesday and I hope you could help me with several questions that I have: 1) The front light was disconnected and I had to sort out the wiring. Once connected, I noticed that even with the high beam off the indicator is slightly lit (see the attached picture). Shout it be like this? 2) When I was connecting the front light I noted two wires connected to nowhere. I traced them back to the clutch lever. Any ideas what they are for and should I fix it? 3) Do you use fully or semi synthetic engine oil? 4) I have to connect turn signals in order to have the motorcycle road legal, but I didn't see any mounts nor any loose wires. Where should I attach and connect the turn signals? Thanks guys in advance! ^^
  21. steve chancey

    '99 Husaberg 501 parts/info

    Hi, Steve here. I have acquired a '99 Husaberg 501 and am trying to put it back in service after it has sat for a few years. I am almost done, I think?. But still have a couple small items that I would like to talk to someone about before I finish and fire it up. If anyone knows where I can find a "parts manual" online, please let me know. I have found these and used them for several other brands and found them very helpful, with their exploded views of the different parts assemblies. Especially when, as in my case, the bike was apart when I got it. Also I have installed a new ignition system and THINK it is all hooked up correctly, but would really like to have someone with more knowledge, or a similar bike, confirm a connection or two. Any help would be appreciated. I am finding all kinds of parts and info from England but very little here in the States, especially for an older model like this. Thanks, Steve
  22. Looking for folks to do a read here and see if I messed anything up. Ideally someone who does professional installs of the BD/Skene. I'm continuing on with mods for a RTW starting in May. I really wanted the Baja Designs Squadron Pro, as I think I'll have at least some unplanned night travel, and that could happen in remote areas. That head mount stadium lighting looked pretty good. The BD-SP lights have to have a dimmer if you are planning on road travel internationally is my understanding. So I also got the Skene controller sold through Baja Designs. I am not covering the physical install of the light here using the rubber straps, instead this is just the electrical. My requirements were: 1) It must work with the factory high/low switch 2) it must come on when the bike powers one, just like the factory light does. 3) Ideally all wiring changes should be in the headlight areas 4) the wiring should be 'downstream' of the rest of the bike so that electricaly if I botched it or there was a short, only the lightening should be affected. 5) it should be clean. I chopped off all of the connectors on the skene controller and went to bare wire, so it all looks like OEM stuff. Obviously, do this at your own risk, and don't get pissed at me if it does not work. Start by removing the factory headlight. It unscrews on the side and unplugs via the H4 plug which is black and has 4 wires into it (B/W, White, Dk Yello, Light Yellow) --------------------------------------------- Stop and take a good look at the factory wiring. Here is what you will see coming from the battery: A thick bundle coming from the rear of the bike goes into a 9 pin yellow connector with 7 wires going into it(Y/white, Blk/white, dk blue, Y, Black, Lt Blue, Lt Green). I'm going to call that connector the 'hub'. That connector goes to the left side signal, and high/low beam switch on the handle bars. Some wires from the left side handle bar controls come back into the hub, another set of wires coming from the handlebar switch is in a bundle going to the H4 connector and then to the lamp. You can see the split of the one of two thick bundles in the attached first photo below if you UNPLUG the yellow connector you completely disconnect the left side controls from the bike and the headlight. You can then take a multimeter and test the hot side of the now unplugged yellow hub (with the key on/off to verify its switched power). What you will find is this at the power side of the hub: Yellow/White: switched power, the power comes to this only when the key is on. This is where we will get the power to the Skene controller. Blk/White: On the DRZ all Blk/White is ground. We will use this as the ground to the Skene Controller Yellow : this is activated when you switch the light to high beam on the handle bar. You can see this on wiring diagrams here on thumpertalk reproduced here. Its a simple switch, when you push high beam it sends current down that yellow wire. This is the actual brains of the hi/low beam and what the Skene controller needs to switch the BD lamp to high beam. So this yellow is an output from hand switch and runs down the H4 connector wire to the H4 plug as the light yellow wire. We will plug this into the Skene controllers white high beam control wire. Other wires: necessary but not used by the Skene controller or the BD lamp. --------------------------------------------- Overall what we are going to do. 1) The skene dimmer has a very nice illustration of the wiring attached below. 2) We have a single lamp, so the Skene doc says to combine(splice) the striped violet/wht and striped orange/wht together in the case where you only have a single light (skene controllers are used for cars and such so it can be tailored to a bike). Also we have to use a ground from one of those wires. That ground and the spliced violet/wht, orange/wht wires will go to the two prong Skene plug that goes into the actual connector on the BD light. Locate the two prong plugs (2 of them to start) on the Skene controller wires that are compatible with the plug on the back of the BD light. We will splice the connectors together on the Skene side then plug a single plug into the BD, discarding one of the two Skene plugs that came with the controler. 3) We want to hook up the power and ground to the wires coming from the battery to the corresponding wires on the input side of the yellow hub. 4) The output of the switch at the drivers left handbar is the lighter yellow wire going into the H4 connecter so that has to be attached to the white control wire of the Skene ------------------------------------------- Splicing/connecting wires: Everyone has their own way of doing this, there are tons of youtube videos on the topic. I like the Nasa method. You have several wires you want to "tap into' where you strip a wire in the middle and tie a new wire into it, and you have a couple of wires where you just want to connect the ends together. I soldered all of my connections, let them cool, then used liquid tape to cover all of the open wire, then wrapped that in high quality electrical tape. For splicing into an existing wire, which you do not want to cut, I used the Irwin Vise Grip wire self adjusting splicing tool. You just lay the wire still connected on both ends into the tool and it will strip and area off the middle of the wire leaving the ends completely intact. ------------------------------------------- Detailed instructions: 1) When you do the work, leave the wires open until you test the light fully to make sure all is well. Obviously with all that exposed wire, make sure don't short any of them together. 2) turn the key off. 3) unplug the yellow hub connector. If you have a meter, you may want to switch the key on and off and verify the above info at the yellow hub connector, and also at the H4 connector, obviously leave the key off before you start cutting wire. 4) On the Skene, you will end up cutting all the wires to length, so you can start by cutting the bundles coming out of the Skene to an apropos length for your bike, obviously leave a little extra. 5) Splice the Skene Black wire into the Blk/White wire behind the hot side of yellow connector hub (the side coming from the battery). That's ground. Use the wire stripper to expose the blk/white wire coming from the battery and splice in the Skene ground wire. 6) The Skene comes with good instructions indicating that you can combine the solid Violet, Orange, and Red from the Skene controller all together so do so. Just cut and strip the ends of the violet,orange and red wire together. Splice those 3 to the wire with the fuse on it that comes with the Skene controller. Then connect that singe fused wire to the yellow/white 'hot wire' coming into the yellow connector hub. Use the wire stripper to expose the wire in the Yellow/white wire, again behind the hot side of the hub and splice it in. You should see red/violet/orange wires from controller merging into the red wire that goes through the fuse, and then the wire on the other side of the fuse spliced into the yellow/wht wire at the back of the yellow 'hub' connector. 7) Now you hook up the 'brains'. Clip off the H4 connector that used to go to the old headlight. Strip the end of the light yellow wire, and attach it to the Skene's white wire. 8) Working just with the Skene side now. Cut off both of the two prong connectors on the skene striped orange/white and violet/white lines. You will reuse one of the connectors so make sure you leave enough wire on the back of it to reuse. The connectors have a striped line and a ground line running into them. Ultimately these are what power and ground the BD light. Trim the wires to size. Strip the orange/white and violate/white and combine them. You should only use one of the black ground wires and it should go into the Skene ground wire (they have it looped together in the package I got, not shown in the Skene diagram). Now re-attache one of the adapters to the combined striped wire and to ground. 9) you can cap off the other 3 wires going to the H4 connector (Dk yellow, Black/wht, white). 10) plug the two prong Skene adaptor with the striped violet and striped orange wires, and the ground wire into the back of the bD light. See skene plug to BD light adapter attachment below. 10) at this point you should be able to test the light. turn on the key and make sure that with the key on and the hand switch on low bean that the light comes on, just like the factory original. Then switch to high beam and make sure it work. Attachment below of completed wiring at the controller should help. Zip everything up, making sure its water tight and yur done.
  23. Hi I'm Shelby, and new to the mechanic world. I just shimmed my valves, cleaned the carb, and rebuilt my water pump. Started it up and it fired up first kick. Ran for ten minutes and died. Wouldn't start for about ten min. Once I let it sit, it started back up and ran fine. Then died when it got got again. I checked the stator and it reads 17 ohms. The other wire read 240 ohms. What else could it be? Could the stator still be shorting out when hot? thanks for the help in advance!
  24. SoCalXR600Rmonkey

    Older dual sported XRR's

    well hello all, seems like forever since I posted last. and it has been five years. wow! at least I never quit reading all the posts. as I fix OP's XR's (doing lots of wiring esp) I have noticed that almost all the bikes have an original Honda harness with the dual sport wiring laid over it. most dual sport kits supply new leads for the positive side of new lights etc but most often the add on stuff tags into the Honda GREEN ground wire. the Honda harness had little to control so there is one small (I am hard pressed to call it 18ga) GREEN ground wire running end to end in the harness with a branch off it to frame ground at the coil mount. darn near every harness I look at has a pretty sad looking "branch" wire. that is, the wire is all discolored and brittle from being overloaded. so my thought on this is to remember to inspect that wire when you find yourself having electrical issues... it may not be the cause of your problem but that's a perfect time to check it out and upgrade it. I cut the old wire out any time I remove a tank. feel free to get proactive. have a dandy! neil
  25. got tired of dealing with 4 lugs screwed to each terminal on battery. dual sport kit, cooling fan, battery tender + oem lugs. ordered fuse box kit from eastern beaver. http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/3_Circuit/3CS-Sealed/3cs-sealed.html
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