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Found 14 results

  1. I bought this bike 8 months ago and it ran like a champ since I got it. The guy I bought it off of had the bottom end completely rebuild right before I bought it off of him, he had receipts showing the bottom end was only done 2 weeks before I bought the bike. Well I went out riding yesterday and in the middle of hitting a hillclimb it locked up and shut off on me. I was reading that wiseco makes garbage crankshafts but I wasn't sure if it was just because it was a wiseco crank is why it failed or if I was doing something wrong. The synthetic looking stuff they put on the crankshaft melted and seized my connecting rod. It's a 1999 KX250
  2. Hello there, today I just finished putting my bike together for the second time now after it keeps seizing up I originally pulled it apart because the shift drum cracked and transmission was damaged the bike ran fine before I pulled it down it never missed a beat. I went to put it back together after I rebuild the transmission and put new crank barings in when I went to start it, it just wanted to seize up I thought this might have been the Piston because it seemed a bit old at 168 hours so I got a new one put it all back together same issues it idels fine but when you go to accelerate at wants to seize up, then it gets hard to kick. no it's not the timming like 10 million people have said it's some weird bottom end issue could be the crank or rod even tho they were perfectly fine before it was pulled down. when it seizes up you just put it in gear and pull it back and it's fine again so confused on wtf is happening please help. cheers blake
  3. Seized my engine last weekend because i put in my oil filter one backwards... i'm a dummy. Needles to say I need a new cylinder and a new piston this is what i'm ordering or at least planning to order.. Piston : https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/974/3784/Wiseco-Piston-Kit?v=533&s=47466 Cylinder: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-KAWASAKI-KX250F-OEM-CYLINDER-JUG-TOPEND-TOP-END-KX250-KX-250F-250-F-RMZ250/192304125998?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 going used on the cylinder to save some money. My question is.. has anyone done one of these and if so do you have a step by step how to? or know of a video on how to do it? on a bit of a budget and want to get back riding as soon as possible. Thanks for looking!
  4. First off, I know that there are multiple posts on the cast/forged piston debate. I keep jumping between being firmly decided on one to the next. Here's my situation. This is the first bike I've ever owned (1999 KX250) and have ridden it for 2 seasons now. I use it for mostly trail riding with a few visits to the local track to display how much of a noob I really am. I noticed piston scoring through the exhaust port and not knowing the history of the bike I opened up my can of worms. I am at the point where my head was sent out and re-plated (due to small chips in the plating) and I found play in the crank bearing so the case is now split in half. I ordered the Hot Rods bottom end kit (CBK0055) and swapped out my input shaft and output shaft first gear with a '97 transmission as found in other threads here on TT. The crank was a wiseco, but rebuilding it was not an option anyways as some previous owner decied that the crankshaft threads on the stator side were too long and cut off all but a few threads 🤦. So now that leaves me with the decision: What piston to use? Wiseco? Vertex? Pro-X? OEM? I know that many people like the wiseco/forged pistons for longevity. People stated that the forged pistons didn't need as much clearance as in the past, etc but these posts were back from early 2010's. I am leaning towards Wiseco as I assume if anything forged has become even more versatile but my thoughts keep thinking "How likely is it to cold seize? Is it more likely to score my new cylinder than a cast?" and "If more clearance is needed for forged should I be running a cast in my recently plated (stock size) cylinder?" I just tend to over think things sometimes but the last question is the one that is bugging me. Thanks for any opinions/help. Also, is the case sealant just like a high quality silicone? I hear people mentioning HondaBond and YamaBond is good for this. Is this the same stuff you use on for grips?
  5. Hi, I have a 99 Cr250 that I want to replace the clutch basket on. Figured I go with wiseco since they have a nice warranty. On their website they want like $270 for the basket kit then on eBay I could buy one for $170. I just not sure why the eBay deal is a $100 cheaper and if I should buy it. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Clutch-Basket-For-Honda-CR250R-CRF450R-CRF450X-/390928120937?nav=SEARCH http://www.wiseco.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ItemID=WPP3009&ModelID=123&ModelYear=1999&AppID=5959
  6. Been looking for after market crank for 99 rm125. Seems like no one makes aftermarket. Engine is apart and searched the part number it’s a wiseco for 2000-2003.. supposedly it doesn’t fit. bit is for sure 99, checked vin on frame and engine. can I rebuild the wiseco crank to put a pro x con rod? Lower rod bearing blew (rod seized) cranks spins free. Any feedback will help..
  7. Hey Guys I thought I would share the placement of my WISECO Fuel Commander. Please subscribe to my channel, share or like it. This video shows the steps needed to install the WISECO Fuel Commander Controller for the Fuel Injection system on my WR250R. This install can be difficult if you don't know what you are doing. But hopefully the video helps you figure out the steps needed to install this thing. If your not comfortable have a Mechanic install for you. I definitely felt a snappier feel along with my No Toil Air Filter Mod. I bought this in hopes to have the capabilities to properly fuel my bike during stock and new exhaust mods. Well When I get it anyhow. SO if you liked the video please check out all my current and future videos on my channel. Cheers.
  8. Have anyone used wiseco center intake valve with the four rest beginning OEM? How does it turn out in terms of power and reliability?
  9. I'm in the process of organising the bits and pieces to fit a 270 kit to my sons 92 XR250. My dilemma is the head gasket. I've been told the best option is a cometic gasket to suit, but I haven't found where I can buy one of these in Australia yet, or the part#. My options as I see it are: 1/ Source the Cometic gasket 2/ Buy a Wiseco top end gasket kit (WS5425 to suit 75.5 to 78mm bores) 3/ Buy an 84/85 XR250R gasket as they had a 75mm bore and would only be 1mm difference as per using a std head gasket on the 84/85 with a 1mm overbore. Does anyone know if they are a direct fit other than the bore size? 4/ Buy a standard gasket, draw up in cad and have it laser cut out of copper. Can anyone weigh in and help out?
  10. I know that I've seen complaints about the quality of some Wiseco cranks over the years. I received this press release yesterday and wondered if this might change things? Honestly, I can't say I have any knowledge of Falicon products. Does anyone here? http://www.faliconcranks.com/
  11. I'm sure this has been debated somewhere on the site before....buuuuut, can't find the 411 I'm looking for. About to do a clutch kit on my 2007 450X......haven't opened it up yet so don't know condition of the basket. If this thing is notched out, which basket do you guys suggest? I'm trying to bullet proof the bike on any upgrades. I already bought an OEM clutch kit (plates, springs). I think I've got it narrowed down to 3 baskets: 1. OEM.....Honda engineers are typically on point 2. Hinson....advertisements say the race teams use this one, but whatever.... 3. Wiseco.....these are supposed to be Forged and super strong Any experienced opinions would be appreciated.
  12. Ive got a 2003 CRF450R that needs to rebuilt. I have been looking around trying to find the best option on complete rebuild kits. Some say stay OEM, Wiseco top and Hotrod bottom? What would be the best brand?
  13. Hello guys, this is my first post on here as I am in need of some help, I have been following these threads for a long time now because they contain very useful information. nut i have never made a post of my own because I have normally been able to find the answers to my questions in existing threads. anyways, I have just finished rebuilding my 2002 Cr250, i used the crank that was already in it and just replaced the crank bearings,crank seals, all external oil seals, as well as sending my cylinder off to millineum technologies for a bore a re nicaseal of the cylinder(back to stock bore) as well as replacing the piston with a wiseco Pro-Lite piston(I drilled the holes for the exhaust bridge as I have always done).( a new OEM cylinder head was put on as well) so here's my problem, I believe my damage to the top end was due to air leaks thus a lean burn down of the top end. I have gone through my break-in procedure and done 4 heat cycles and then an idle run through of the gears. today I did a half throttle and then an about 3/4 throttle pull through the gears. the bike felt like it ran good and had good power except it felt like it fell a little flat in the top peak of the RPM(so there's problem number 1) my second issue is after these pulls the silencer and pipe silencer joint were covered in spooge.(i know a bit of spooge is to be expected after full days worth of riding but not after a 10 minute run through of the gears) the spooge problem led me to believe that the jetting was the issue and that the bike falling a liittle flat high in the rpms and the spooge were connected(i have a stock mikuni carb with the recomended jetting for a pro circuit pipe 380 main, 32.5 pilot stock needle on 3rd clip position)(i was running a 340 main and 30 pilot before the rebuild but i felt like that was a little lean) i then pulled the plug and looked at all of it and the coloration of the porselin is leading me to beleive the jetting is lean(even on stock jetting and 4 sizes up on the main from where i used to be) the plug looking lean scares me a tad as this is what i fekt like caused my top end failure before. so i really need help from the jettng gurus here that can give me good info attached are pictures of the plug,spooge and new top end any help would be appreciated, i would like to fix the spooge problem and the falling flat feeling high in the rpm, i just put alot of money into this motor and i want to do it right to prevent andy further problems.
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