Search the Community: Showing results for tags 'wont'.
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Hi guys, I got a kx 85 2001 and i have a problem.. since i got it, sometimes its hard to start but since 2 days, i've started it but died when i went for a ride and wouldnt start anymore. So my problem : the bike crank but is really hard to start (if it start).. and if it start, it die.. and again hard to start. -Spark is good, air filter is clean, jetting seems okay (needle look pointed and carb clean), after a lot a cranking the gas get out by the overflow of the carb (so i have gas with good ratio 40:1) and the motor was replaced recently at 135psi of compression. Another thing, a got spooge from the exhaust. Now i am checking for the reed valve, they're not broken but i see a really little gap with my light and if i turn over the plate, its really worse. So do you think they were already turned by someone else ? Does a really little gap can cause a hard start/bogg like this? Should i change them for new ? Another idea on what i should look?? Thx !
Hey guys maybe you can help me out here. I have an 07 CRF450R just recently rebuilt the whole bike. Bottom end, bearings, top end, valves (changed to Kibblewhite SS valves and springs), cam chain, and clutch. Bike does have a bigger flywheel to run lights on it with the stator that came with it since it is running in supermoto trim and is street legal, all in good shape still. Carb is also clean and everything is in good shape, had to put a new hot start in there and a choke. Valve clarence is in spec maybe a little on the looser side (possible could effect it from starting?). Gas is also new and not old gas. First time starting it started up in 2 or 3 kicks (don't remember exactly lol) but it started up fine no resistance sounded great only problem was I didn't have the cam chain tensioner tightened down causing the bike to go out of timing and shut off after idle for a bit. No biggie just put it back into the timing marks and put it all back together again. After that it did start up 1st kick but I ended up killing it because I wasn't going to ride it or anything just wanted to see if it starts up. Although it stared it was hard to kick as in took a lot of weight and effort way more then the first start up. Tried to getting it running again next morning and no luck. Kick start takes most of my weight and a lot of force. Looked around online for similar problems people said timing by one tooth most likely. Ended up doing timing again and now it kicks though easy and less effort I got it to start but it would not idle for more then a few seconds. Been trying to start it up and I still have had no luck 100 kicks later with breaks in between lol. Was hoping to get some other thoughts on my situation seeing that I'm just mentally exhausted at this point and my leg is 100 times stronger lol. Maybe it could be timing still and I over looked it after doing it and looking over it so many times? Could the valves being a bit loose be the problem even though it was fine initial first start up? Also was wondering maybe the auto decomp could be bad? Any way to check that? Swear I have undone the valve cover so much I'm pro at putting the two front screws in lmao had the bike for over a year now as well. Sorry for a long post but any input to help me get this running again would be nice. Thank you in advance.
Hey Thumper Talk community I've been all over the forums trying to find out what is going on with my 09 drz400sm clutch. So during the end last riding season I noticed my clutch lever started feeling poor. Just didn't give a very good feel but still functioned just fine. I thought the lever just needed to be adjusted. So in preparing for this up coming riding season here in Minnesota I started to adjust my clutch lever. No matter how I adjusted it at the lever/perch/cable area I could not get it dialed in. I then proceed to work on the clutch arm and see if that was the problem. From what I was reading the clutch throwout post needs to be rotated all the way counterclockwise, then the arm place in either the original position or parallel to the bike. I feel like I have tried every position and every time it leads little to no room in the cable to adjust it at the perch and wont fully disengage the transmission. The clutch lever has great feel but no slack in the line and will barely allow me to rotate the rear tire while the lever is in and in gear.(not fully disengaging) I started to think something inside the clutch was wrong even though it worked fine last season. I followed this clutch inspection guide and everything is in tolerance. I'm kind of stumped. I even tried to put everything back to how it was last season to see if i could get something but no luck. I have zeta levers and a replacement cable (original cable snapped). Both worked fine in the past. Let me know if you have any suggestions. I appreciate your time. -Justin