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Found 78 results

  1. Hey guys! Im gonna start out with posting all the information i think is needed for you guys to help me with this problem! Stock engine 2007 crf250r. Valve clearances are good and have JUST been shimmed with a double and triple check. Jetting is 175 main, stock needle position, 45 pilot and 50 leak jet. 1000ft above sea level. Im still having a terrible time starting and it used to be a 1 kick bike. I haven't changed my kick routine at all. 3 slow kicks, 3 throttle twist and then kick. Will sometimes start if i give it some gas when kicking. And then it starts 1-4 kicks after its warm. Im lost and dont know what else to look for. Thanks!
  2. 2007 KX250F w/ 269cc big bore Recently bought this bike and had a mechanic tune it up. Valve adjustment and some other basic stuff. He said the it was in great shape. It’s been riding like a dream, I’ve probably put about 10 hrs on it. Yesterday before a short ride I topped off the oil and started towards the trail head it’s rode about 3 miles and was cruising in 5th gear and suddenly lost power. Throttle was very boggy, almost unresponsive. Then the bike stalled. I took a look no and leaks or anything but then bike wouldn’t start from kicking or bump starting after that. Loaded it into the truck and got home and realized there was too much oil in it. So I drained it out and put the right amount of oil in and it still won’t start. Please help.
  3. 2007 YZ450F which apparently had the float bowl needle stuck open, filling up the crankcase with fuel. My buddy rode the bike for less than 2 min. not knowing the crankcase was full. The bike died. It will not restart after draining the oil and refilling to the proper level. Some background on me just so you know I'm not a total newbie. I'm the father of a retired Pro Motocross/Supercross kid. I've been wrenching on bikes every eve. for a lot of years. I built all of my sons bikes until we started receiving them directly from Star Racing/ Factory Yamaha. I've not previously experienced this? The bike has good spark, good compression, I even tried starting fluid to rule out fuel delivery problem. I tore the motor down thinking bent rod? Rod looks completely straight. I poured solvent into both the intake and exhaust ports of the head - no leakage through the valves and valve stems do not appear to be bent? To me it seems and feels like a timing issue however nothing appears to be off, timing looks to be dead on? Something happened as a result of the crankcase being too full, but what? As I said, I tore the motor down, removing the entire top end. I inspected the connecting rod, it looks normal. I rotated the crankshaft which rotated smoothly? After not seeing anything on the bottom end I decided to reassemble with a new piston, rings, wrist pin and timing chain. Buttoned it all back up last night and still nothing, barely a pop every now and then? Anyone experience this before? What went aria?
  4. Back story. Just finished complete rebuild new head, valves, crank, bearings seals, and muffler bearing. I've checked, double checked ,and checked again timing. Exhaust valves are .011 and the intake are. .007 (I know a frog hair loose). It will fire right up when towed and it will stay running. So I am assuming ( I know) the carb probably needs some help. Can you guys point me in the right direction as I am baffled by carburetor theory and function. By the way happy Mother's Day to any that are reading brad
  5. I have a 98 cr125r, i have done a lot to it. rebuilt the carb, new top end. It still wont start unless i prime the cylinder. Once it starts it runs good but also wont idle. my friend said it might be the jet or reed valves. what do you think
  6. I have a JAILING 2005 125cc Chinese dirt bike I cleaned the carb After it was sitting for 3 years not being ran. I changed the oil fuel lines flushed out the fuel tank with fuel. Fixed ignition being wired in reverse new spark plug and everything. I bike kicks over and starts for about 2 seconds and then dies any suggestions and what u should try? Link to video of Ike trying to start -
  7. Hello. I was putting the first ride on a new top end on my bike last Thursday. I landed an jump and my bike bogged out like it ran out of gas. I assumed it fouled the plug and went to change it. When I got to my car I took the plug out and it had great spark. I tore into it the next day. Everything in the carb seemed fine. I took the air filter off, still wouldn’t start. I checked to see if the reed valves were damaged, nope. I even took the exhaust off to see if it had somehow clogged. After all this I still can’t figure out what is wrong with it. I poured some gas down the spark plug hole and it still wouldn’t run. There is no reason why this bike shouldn’t run yet it won’t. Any and all help will be appreciated. My only guesses is there’s something up with the carb or there’s no spark under compression. I’m grasping at straws here.
  8. Kracer05

    2016 KX250f

    I have a 2016 kx250f I have had 0 problems until just recently I put a new spark plug in and did a ride session at English town in new jersey. The bike stopped running halfway threw the day and when I pulled the spark plug it had no sign of fuel. I am just looking for helpful tips because I have replaced just about everything and I'm tired of wrenching.
  9. I just bought a used 2004 Honda Crf50 with a 88 big boar kit. I got it home and noticed when I shifted up the most it went up was 2 gears but its a four speed. Then when I shifted back into neutral it would not move forward or back. This is very weird. I tried to shift down like 20 times and nothing. It has a clutch lever on the left side of the bike if that has anything to do with it. I just dont know why it wont shift? Any advice please leave it for me.
  10. Okay so ever since I bought the bike a few months ago it always started up 1st try as long as I was at TDC (obviously I'd miss it sometimes so sometimes 2-3 kicks). The bike runs perfect is what I am trying to get across. Last night, 5/22/19 bike was running perfectly, and towards the end of the night (30mins before track closed) I went to truck to take a break and jumped back on it and it wouldn't start. So weird... So kicked a few more times, nothing. Waited around 20mins and tried again, still nothing. I dug further and decided to check the spark on the spark plug, spark plug looked like shit for one (see attached images) and I tried to get a spark out of it and I couldn't, bought one from AutoZone for $5 and came back and tested spark, saw a spark, great, put together bike and tried to kick a few times, nothing... So I ended up checking the valve clearances and they seemed fine and in spec Put everything back together again and at this point I was like hm... lets see what happens if I put a little bit of gas, about 1/2 of the top of a water bottle worth into the cylinder. Put the sparkplug back in and kicked it once and it started! Left it on for a few minutes to let it idle / rev it a little then I shut it off, re assembled the rest of the bike then sat back down on it once I was done and kicked it and started up first try again. So my question is, why all of the sudden did it start to seem perfectly fine?? Did that little bit of gas somehow unclog something along the way when it fired up the first time? I was just so confused because I really didn't do anything except replace the spark plug.
  11. Said I recently brought a Suzuki RM 125 2000 this Autum for £1,150.00, about 1400 USD. I haven't rode for a few years so didn't want to spend too much on a bike again if I didn't get back into it. I've been out on the bike a few times and considering the year it seems not too bad. I have now stored it for the winter and I am looking forward to spring and getting back into MX. I will be looking to do a minor over hall of the bike next year, fork seals, air filter, exhaust baffle ect. One thing that is playing on my mind though, in the past, about 10 years ago I used to ride KTMs, notably a 125 sx 2004 and 125 exc 2006, fantastic bikes. The RM does feel notably slower than both those bikes, lower end and power band, it seemed to bog alot more so need to cluch and down alot. The guy I brought the bike off said it had seen better days when got it. When I got it he had Just done rebuild on it and ran it in. I saw the pictures. Taking this on to consideration, and the age of the bike, I have no idea how many times the engine has been cracked. I have been advised that there is a limit as to how many times you want to crack an engine and rebuild it. It is running not too badly, I do however want to jet it and have a look at the I side my self. If it does need a new piston and rings, would it be worth putting the money into such a old bike? I say this because I like riding on the pipe and tearing the f out of it. I.e would such an old engine be able to handle that amount of revs a.d how many engine rebuilds realistically can you get out of an old bike before it's days are up? One thing to consider as well is it is 20 years old, before to long may be worth something if in good condition stored?
  12. When I first got this bike the people were 30 mins late and they said they were getting gas... and they rode the bike to me where we were meeting (strange because they drove an hour to meet me). They had to be trying to start the bike for that entire time. When they rode the bike over to me I shut it off and started it about 4 times and ran fine. No popping/ fluttering. I drove back home and I cant get the bike to start since then. I contacted dude and he said it was very hard to start and he said make sure the fuel pump turns on (these guys are not mechanically inclined to the slightest. The bike was missing lots of bolts) He claimed he replace the stator and for them to get the bike to start they hooked it up to a car battery to jump it; which took about 10 mins with 2/3 throttle. Since then I have checked: -Took fuel pump apart, the filter was slighty dirty so I cleaned with break cleaner. I also have gas in the fuel line. Also fresh gas (pump 93). Also swapped tanks completly from a running bike (2014 yz250f same part number tanks and fuel pump). - Cleaned throttle body and made sure I was getting a good stream of gas through the injector. - Getting good consitant spark. - Took connections apart and filled with dialectric grease - Checked fuses - Checked the valves They were way out of spec and I am suprised it ran like it did with the valves that far from spec. I will revisit this today to make sure I didn't do something wrong. Clearances I used were Intake: 0.12mm-0.19mm Exhaust 0.17mm-0.24mm (Motor smells burnt as well) - The battery has a voltage of 12.3 - Compression was about 85 (did not use a leak down tester) - took the fly wheel off to make sure the key way was still there. - I tried jumping it off the car just like the other goons did out of anger. Nothing. Then I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it started and ran like shit and had to keep the throttle about half way. After I did this when the starter is on the bike it makes a grinding noise when I kick it. When the starter is off the bike, the noise no longer exists. While I had the starter off the bike the shaft moved freely. Then I hooked up a negative to where it bolts to the motor and a positve to the connector and it worked like it should with out any noise. I think I need to solve the starting noise before I can dig into the root problem of the bike not starting. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
  13. Just got my 1972 Honda XL250 back up and running after a fresh cylinder, piston and rings. I replaced the intake gasket and have a new Chinese 1979 carb all hooked up. Bike usually starts first kick when cold but after I run it a little bit it will either shut down when getting low RPMs when taking off (like I stalled it but it just wants to die), or ill turn it off and go to kick it over 20 seconds later but it wont have it unless its been sitting a couple minutes or so. Choke or no choke, i usually take the plug out and its dry then put it back in and it fires right up. Carb issue? I have another little carb without a return cable but I like using the new one I bought because it has a return cable. I tried turning the carb air/fuel mixture screw a turn or two in both directions and running it like that but no difference, really. I did die on a mountain and took the plug out the other day and it seemed to maybe have a weak looking spark but it was sunny out and I wasnt sure. have at me!
  14. Hey guys i have an 08 450 YZF quad & got a problem with ignition. new battery & was riding for a couple of hrs when me son took it for a ride & he stalled it & the bike wouldn't start again. theres no power at all. have checked the battery , the fuses etc but i just not sure what else to look for. Any ideas.... CHEERS
  15. Hi guys. I have an XL600R that hasn't been started in 20 years. I just rebuilt the carb changed the oil along with the oil filter and spark plug. Any suggestions to get the bike up and running ?
  16. apollo 125cc dirt bike i was riding, it ran fine and had no issues then the chain came off and broke my magneto cover. everything looked fine except for the case cover. when the chain came off it stoped the bike but i was not going very fast. i bought a new case cover and went to start it and it wont start unless i pull the throttle back wide open then it starts but only idles with it wide open and if i let off it dies and if i keep it wide open it only stays running for 5-10 seconds then dies and ether spits fuel into the air filter or pops and white smoke comes out the air filter. also when i kick it it sometimes spits gas into the air filter out of these 2 like ejection points in the carb. it ran perfect with no issues till that chain came off and broke the cover. It is getting fuel, the jets are clean, the air filter is clean, and i do not know what it is. Please help
  17. I have a 2007 ktm 105 sx and I accidentally cold seized it a while back so I rebuilt the top end and now it won't start anymore. I cleaned the carburetor, still won't start. I've tried and checked everything, it has plenty of spark (brand new plug, i set the gap correctly), it has 110 psi compression (requires 90 psi to run), and I know that the fuel is fine because I just mixed it myself to the proper ratio (32:1). Does anyone know why on earth I can't get my bike to start!?!? Any ideas to try, anything finicky about this year model? Thanks in advance for any replies
  18. So I have a 2006 crf250x I rebuilt the engine myself, had a maintenance shop trouble shoot it to see if i did it right or if i did something wrong and they said everything was perfect. So now i just rebuilt the top end and had the maintenance shop perform a leak down test to check if i resurfaced my head correctly and if i had good compression. Results came back to me saying that yes indeed i have no leaks and i have good compression... They also said my exhaust valve clearance was good but my intake had 0 clearance, they quoted me for $250 to have them do it so i instead just took it home and did it myself the bike reads (.003"in) to large from the spec clearance on the left intake and my right intake reads in between the specified clearance (.005"-.001"in)0.12-.03mm) my question is and ive already tired, will it not start with one valve having too large of a clearance? Yes its getting fuel yes it has compression(or at least its capable of sealing compression), yes it has spark and yes the timing it 100% correct.
  19. Help request for non-running 00’ WR360 from Joaquin in Glenville NC 2000 Husqvarna WR360 History: Purchased used 19 August 2019, had been sitting in owner’s garage for 2-3 years unused. Owner said it was running when parked. The moto appeared used but in visually in very good condition. Has an R&D Husqvarna Australia decompression head and Victa auto-decompression valve. Original Kokusan rotor/stator and original CDI/Coil. Has FMF exhaust. After carburetor disassembly and cleaning, the engine idled briefly but stalled when throttle applied. Started with difficulty with throttle in open position – blew out decompression valve foam filter from housing. Found that the auto decompression valve stem was broken. Ordered a used long shaft valve and diaphragm rebuild kit in Australia and installed it. Exhaust removed to confirm there were no obstructions. Piston appeared visually good through exhaust port and through spark plug hole. Compression feels strong without decompressor, but much easier to turn over with it installed. Ran briefly (enough to get a psi reading) when compression tester put in place of decompression valve – used engine stop switch to stop engine. Saw small spark when checking spark plug (actuating kick starter by hand while viewing plug) Removed carburetor again to recheck pilot jet and adjust float height (17mm). Very brief, intermittent engine sputter since then (with/without choke), cleaned and checked all electrical connections, took continuity readings (the only values found were from online forums – no specifications found in service manual, please confirm values with my readings below). Changed fuel from canned 2 stroke (1:40) to self mix non ethanol 1:40 Removed flywheel rotor with OEM part to confirm woodruff key is present and to check stator timing mark aligned with case mark and visually inspect stator/rotor – all appear OK. (see continuity readings below). Latest – cannot get engine to fire with or without decompression valve ====================================================================================================== Electric Test Values Note, all connections cleaned (including engine/frame mount), stator visually inspected and timing mark to case confirmed (rotor removed and key is intact). Stator Trigger, Lighting, Charge Coil: 2.0 ohms (yellow to earth), from generator to voltage regulator Stator Pulse, Pickup Coil: 127 and 135 ohms (blue to light blue), from generator to CDI, two reading from two multimeters Ignition Coil – low tension: 1.0 ohms (white/blue to earth) Ignition Coil - high tension (total with cap) 18.8 ohms, without cap 14.0 ohms, cap only 4,8 ohms Engine Stop Switch: (white to earth, OK ground), from CDI to ground and black switch ground OK to ground CDI to Coil: (white/blue) 0.9 ohms to ground, (black/white), OK to ground Voltage Regulator: cleaned mount and contact (yellow to ground OK) Spark Plug NGK B8 EGV (new) with 0.6 mm gap Carburetor: Keihin PWK 38 – disassembled: appeared clean inside, no orifices obstructed Needle: Keihin DDJ Slide: 7 Main Jet: 172 Pilot Jet: 42 Pilot Screw (1.5 turns out) Idle Screw (1.5 turns out) Elevation: 3,500 feet Other: Victa Decompression Valve- rebuilt, functions correctly HiFloFiltro: cleaned/oiled FMF Gnarley Exhaust removed - no obstructions found Reed Valve removed - nothing unusual seen Intake Manifold Boot and Boot to air filter - both intact and pliable Fuel: Home Depot canned, synthetic two-stroke fuel 1:40 and non-ethanol 1:0 mix with Amsoil two stroke synthetic oil (both fuels 92 octane) Compression: 163 psi (engine ran briefly with compression gauge attached)
  20. 75 husky,, 250 new piston and rings, new filter , new carb, new everything, timing set, won't start or even try to, sent motor to pvp cycles in Kentucky, the guy kept it for 14 months, called, sent emails, had to get grumpy, sent it back no gaskets in carb, reeds, stripped and loose head bolts ,etc ,etc. ordered parts, didn't even send the right ones,. Any old husky riders know what might be wrong, 71 and still riding, when I get it started!!!!!!!
  21. Hi all this is my first post, sorry if it's not in the proper area. Anyways I'm very puzzled with the current state of my 2008 YZ250, I rebuilt my bottom end fairly recently, out in all new bearings, seals, gaskets, and a couple new tranny gears. I checked the crank shaft to make sure it was smooth and the bearings weren't being side loaded and everything checked out. I put around 20hrs on the bike over the next few weeks and ended up breaking my inner clutch hub. I replaced it and now there's lots of friction somewhere, the kick starter is very difficult to move, I pulled the cylinder and everything checked out there. I'm really confused, my bike worked great a clutch part broke, I replaced it and now the crankshaft doesn't wanna rotate easily. I'm really hoping to not need to split my case again, has anyone heard of anything like this or have any ideas? Thanks!
  22. Hey guys, I’ve got a 2011 kx250f and when I go to kickstart it, it pops and shoots flames out the exhaust. The only way it starts is if you bump start it behind something for a minute or two. Any ideas on what it is..
  23. Good Morning TT experts: I am hoping that someone has come across a similar issue and might have an idea; we were set to leave for a fun filed weekend and might be one bike down; It is a bike i just bought for my new to biking kid. I bought a used Cr 125 from a kid about 3 months ago. At the time it ran good, took it around a MX track for about five laps, and it was good to go. Fast forward to last weekend, son took it to the desert and it was bogging when getting on the throttle. It then got harder to start throughout the day; the thing would fire first kick the week before. I figure it was a carb or jet issue, so i took the carb off and cleaned out everything. This is not my first carb clean/ rebuild so I was pretty confident that was what it was. So when i got the JD Jetting Keihin( looks brand new) apart, the pilot looked a little plugged. I blew it out with compressed air and then hit it with carb clean along with the other jets and holes. Put it all back together and now she wont start. Checked the plug and it is a little black so switched it, then checked and it has spark( had a kill switch issue in the past). Re-pulled everything out, checked that I put things back together properly, and still nothing. The float looks to be correct, the reeds are newer vforce and look with a flashlight to be ok. Fuel is about 3 weeks old, and its the same that has always been run in it. Compressing feels normal though i did not put a tester on it. I even hit it with a little straight gas mist from a spray bottle to see if that would help. So I'm stumped, any ideas? thanks
  24. Hi guys, I recently bought a second hand husky txc 250. I did a couple of bush rides on it and loved it. It gradually became harder to start, eventually I could only bump start it, it refused to start on the starter or kick regardless of the engine being hot or cold. And now it won't start at all. It will fire and rev a couple of revolutions and then die again if I try bump start it. Here is what I have checked so far : New iridium plug, sparking well. New fuel filter. Fuel pump working and pumping fuel Electrical connections cleaned with contact cleaner and connected well. Fuses are good. Temp sensor is good Efi throttle body is clean Battery is charged up and strong. Exhaust is clear of obstructions Air filter new and clean. Anybody got ideas? I guess I could pull the top off and check valve clearances? But I think this model is shimmed. Also the compression still feels great under the kicker. Thanks for reading Daniel
  25. Hey guys, I bought a 1998 yz250 that needed a top end rebuild. When checking the bike out the top end was already off, piston still on the rod. It turns over freely. I pressed the kick lever down and the piston obviously goes up and down. Basically the bike was a $700 buy that needed a top end. no big deal. new excel rims and dunlop tires, had everything to rebuild the top end already, new renthal bars, grips, etc. plastics worn out but no big deal. well worth the $700 in my book. So here's where my problem lies, after putting the top end back together, i'm finding it super difficult to kick. before i put the head cap on, the piston moved up and down smoothly in the cylinder as i pushed down on the kick lever. as soon as i put the cap on and the spark plug in, it became almost impossible to kick. I stand on my dirt bike stand to give me leverage on the kick lever and put all 200lbs of myself on to the kicker and i've gotta give it a little bounce to get it to kick. When it does drop all i hear is the piston stop at the top of the cylinder like its got all the air compressed. I'll reset the kicker and drop down on it and it'll kinda drop or get hung up like the piston doesn't want to suck back down and when the piston finally gets low enough in the cylinder i can hear a thump of air out the carb. I tried kicking this thing for a half hour with the piston getting hung up because of the compression not wanting to let it go. At least thats what i think is going on. and when i get the piston to clear the intake, it finally releases the trapped air. As far as spark goes, i've got a ngk 8es or something like that. not sure off hand. I do know its not the R plug. spark was there, wasn't the strongest spark but not the weakest either. Any idea on what could be going on? I think my next step is to take the plug out and see how easy it'll kick with out the plug in it. Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks.
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