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Found 39 results

  1. ttr125 works fine when running but to get it started I have to lay it on its right side for about 5 seconds. It will not start otherwise no matter how long I kick it and its been like that ever since I got it last fall. I got the carb professionaly cleaned and the oil changed but it still dosent start unless I sit there untill the daylight is gone or I lay it on its right side and it starts up like a charm.
  2. skiwithnoskis

    Carb tuning HELP!!!!

    Back story. Just finished complete rebuild new head, valves, crank, bearings seals, and muffler bearing. I've checked, double checked ,and checked again timing. Exhaust valves are .011 and the intake are. .007 (I know a frog hair loose). It will fire right up when towed and it will stay running. So I am assuming ( I know) the carb probably needs some help. Can you guys point me in the right direction as I am baffled by carburetor theory and function. By the way happy Mother's Day to any that are reading brad
  3. Hey guys! Im gonna start out with posting all the information i think is needed for you guys to help me with this problem! Stock engine 2007 crf250r. Valve clearances are good and have JUST been shimmed with a double and triple check. Jetting is 175 main, stock needle position, 45 pilot and 50 leak jet. 1000ft above sea level. Im still having a terrible time starting and it used to be a 1 kick bike. I haven't changed my kick routine at all. 3 slow kicks, 3 throttle twist and then kick. Will sometimes start if i give it some gas when kicking. And then it starts 1-4 kicks after its warm. Im lost and dont know what else to look for. Thanks!
  4. 2007 YZ450F which apparently had the float bowl needle stuck open, filling up the crankcase with fuel. My buddy rode the bike for less than 2 min. not knowing the crankcase was full. The bike died. It will not restart after draining the oil and refilling to the proper level. Some background on me just so you know I'm not a total newbie. I'm the father of a retired Pro Motocross/Supercross kid. I've been wrenching on bikes every eve. for a lot of years. I built all of my sons bikes until we started receiving them directly from Star Racing/ Factory Yamaha. I've not previously experienced this? The bike has good spark, good compression, I even tried starting fluid to rule out fuel delivery problem. I tore the motor down thinking bent rod? Rod looks completely straight. I poured solvent into both the intake and exhaust ports of the head - no leakage through the valves and valve stems do not appear to be bent? To me it seems and feels like a timing issue however nothing appears to be off, timing looks to be dead on? Something happened as a result of the crankcase being too full, but what? As I said, I tore the motor down, removing the entire top end. I inspected the connecting rod, it looks normal. I rotated the crankshaft which rotated smoothly? After not seeing anything on the bottom end I decided to reassemble with a new piston, rings, wrist pin and timing chain. Buttoned it all back up last night and still nothing, barely a pop every now and then? Anyone experience this before? What went aria?
  5. 2007 KX250F w/ 269cc big bore Recently bought this bike and had a mechanic tune it up. Valve adjustment and some other basic stuff. He said the it was in great shape. It’s been riding like a dream, I’ve probably put about 10 hrs on it. Yesterday before a short ride I topped off the oil and started towards the trail head it’s rode about 3 miles and was cruising in 5th gear and suddenly lost power. Throttle was very boggy, almost unresponsive. Then the bike stalled. I took a look no and leaks or anything but then bike wouldn’t start from kicking or bump starting after that. Loaded it into the truck and got home and realized there was too much oil in it. So I drained it out and put the right amount of oil in and it still won’t start. Please help.
  6. I have a JAILING 2005 125cc Chinese dirt bike I cleaned the carb After it was sitting for 3 years not being ran. I changed the oil fuel lines flushed out the fuel tank with fuel. Fixed ignition being wired in reverse new spark plug and everything. I bike kicks over and starts for about 2 seconds and then dies any suggestions and what u should try? Link to video of Ike trying to start -
  7. I have a 98 cr125r, i have done a lot to it. rebuilt the carb, new top end. It still wont start unless i prime the cylinder. Once it starts it runs good but also wont idle. my friend said it might be the jet or reed valves. what do you think
  8. Michael Campos

    DRZ Carb issue?

    Hey all, Any help is very much appreciated. I have a DRZ400SM and was experiencing a few flat spots on the highway, meaning that when I hit 40mph the bike just lagged and then returned to normal at 45mph, happened again between 60-65 and 70-75mph. After doing some research on the the web I thought it might be a dirty carb. I watched a few tutorials and took the carb out. It was clean from what I could see, so I put everything back together. After getting the bike put back together it wouldn't start. Finally when I put it the petcock on Prime it started up, but when it started it was revving pretty high. I thought the revving was because I needed to adjust the throttle cable. So I adjusted the cable and started it again. After starting and sounded right it stalled. I figured it stalled because it was cold or there was only a little fuel in the system. I left it for a couple days and started it again. Everything seemed fine for the first couple blocks to the gas station, but then I noticed the bike wanted to stall. As I rode back home the bike struggled to make it and was back firing like crazy. Once home I noticed that the couple days I left the bike sit, it was in the Prime position. Ok, a few questions: I'm questioning whether I put the carb back in properly, thats why it didnt start initially. How can I check? It does start, but only in Prime. Wont start in On or Reserve position. Did leaving it Prime flood the carb? Why is it back-firing so much? I know these might be big broad questions, but ANY help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!!!
  9. Hi guys, I recently bought a second hand husky txc 250. I did a couple of bush rides on it and loved it. It gradually became harder to start, eventually I could only bump start it, it refused to start on the starter or kick regardless of the engine being hot or cold. And now it won't start at all. It will fire and rev a couple of revolutions and then die again if I try bump start it. Here is what I have checked so far : New iridium plug, sparking well. New fuel filter. Fuel pump working and pumping fuel Electrical connections cleaned with contact cleaner and connected well. Fuses are good. Temp sensor is good Efi throttle body is clean Battery is charged up and strong. Exhaust is clear of obstructions Air filter new and clean. Anybody got ideas? I guess I could pull the top off and check valve clearances? But I think this model is shimmed. Also the compression still feels great under the kicker. Thanks for reading Daniel
  10. I need some help figuring out what is going on with my bike. I have an 04 WR450F, and I was riding 5 miles of hell over the weekend. Right before the last escape route (lucky me) my bike just died. I was starting up a climb, and right at the base, it just shut down. I didn't hit anything, don't even think there was much of a bump or anything to jolt the bike. I did have a few lay downs/get offs before, but nothing here. The light on the power button wouldn't turn on, and there was no power to the headlight. I found out that I could kick start it, but it was very difficult, it took a LOT of kicking before it would start, and then it would stall if I ever let off the gas. As I was trying to figure out what was going on, I saw some white plastic (?) pieces falling out from under the headlight/front number plate. I pulled off the headlight and saw an electrical part (I assume it's like a resistor or something like that), it looked like it had been jarred loose, and got pinched by the steering, and broke it. It is a white rectangular piece, looks and feels sort of like hard plastic, about 2" long, 3/4" wide and probably only about 1/4" thick, and has 2 male quick connectors on it. Inside (since it broke, I could see, usually you wouldn't, but maybe it will help figure out what it is), is a thin wire coil, like a spring, and I'm not sure what it is wrapped around, maybe just an insulator. I tried to wrap it with some electrical tape to insulate it while riding back, but it melted the tape, and was smoking. I'm not sure where the 2 wires that connect to it go, they go back into a cluster of wires on the wiring harness, and I didn't have time to cut it all apart, and follow them, but that is the only damage that I could see, so I'm hoping that if I can figure out what this part is, and find a replacement, that will fix my problem. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks,
  11. Brandon Trumbla

    1998 YZ250 Hard to Kick, Wont Start

    Hey guys, I bought a 1998 yz250 that needed a top end rebuild. When checking the bike out the top end was already off, piston still on the rod. It turns over freely. I pressed the kick lever down and the piston obviously goes up and down. Basically the bike was a $700 buy that needed a top end. no big deal. new excel rims and dunlop tires, had everything to rebuild the top end already, new renthal bars, grips, etc. plastics worn out but no big deal. well worth the $700 in my book. So here's where my problem lies, after putting the top end back together, i'm finding it super difficult to kick. before i put the head cap on, the piston moved up and down smoothly in the cylinder as i pushed down on the kick lever. as soon as i put the cap on and the spark plug in, it became almost impossible to kick. I stand on my dirt bike stand to give me leverage on the kick lever and put all 200lbs of myself on to the kicker and i've gotta give it a little bounce to get it to kick. When it does drop all i hear is the piston stop at the top of the cylinder like its got all the air compressed. I'll reset the kicker and drop down on it and it'll kinda drop or get hung up like the piston doesn't want to suck back down and when the piston finally gets low enough in the cylinder i can hear a thump of air out the carb. I tried kicking this thing for a half hour with the piston getting hung up because of the compression not wanting to let it go. At least thats what i think is going on. and when i get the piston to clear the intake, it finally releases the trapped air. As far as spark goes, i've got a ngk 8es or something like that. not sure off hand. I do know its not the R plug. spark was there, wasn't the strongest spark but not the weakest either. Any idea on what could be going on? I think my next step is to take the plug out and see how easy it'll kick with out the plug in it. Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks.
  12. Good Morning TT experts: I am hoping that someone has come across a similar issue and might have an idea; we were set to leave for a fun filed weekend and might be one bike down; It is a bike i just bought for my new to biking kid. I bought a used Cr 125 from a kid about 3 months ago. At the time it ran good, took it around a MX track for about five laps, and it was good to go. Fast forward to last weekend, son took it to the desert and it was bogging when getting on the throttle. It then got harder to start throughout the day; the thing would fire first kick the week before. I figure it was a carb or jet issue, so i took the carb off and cleaned out everything. This is not my first carb clean/ rebuild so I was pretty confident that was what it was. So when i got the JD Jetting Keihin( looks brand new) apart, the pilot looked a little plugged. I blew it out with compressed air and then hit it with carb clean along with the other jets and holes. Put it all back together and now she wont start. Checked the plug and it is a little black so switched it, then checked and it has spark( had a kill switch issue in the past). Re-pulled everything out, checked that I put things back together properly, and still nothing. The float looks to be correct, the reeds are newer vforce and look with a flashlight to be ok. Fuel is about 3 weeks old, and its the same that has always been run in it. Compressing feels normal though i did not put a tester on it. I even hit it with a little straight gas mist from a spray bottle to see if that would help. So I'm stumped, any ideas? thanks
  13. Jay20705

    Xr100r 1999 ish wont start

    I have an old rusty xr100r 1999'ish and it will not start we got a brand new carb for it and air filter it has spark when i try to start it makes a kind of gurgle like a *Blurp* *Blurp* *Blurp* and smoke comes out of the exhaust it has no compression either im very new to dirt bikes and need help. Oh and also when kicking gas almost spits from carb into air filter.
  14. I recently bought a 1982 YZ125 and have been struggling to get it to start. Bike has very low compression, got a new piston ring but didn't help the issue. Has spark, and when I pull the plug out it's wet so gas is getting to it, but I still don't hear any pop or fire or anything when I try to start it. I'm no expert but if the plug was sparking inside the cylinder with gas I should hear something right? So I was thinking maybe the timing's off (although it would have to be really off for it not to even fire) or maybe the plug is sparking outside the cylinder but not inside? Anyways I'm not sure what to do next any suggestions appreciated!!
  15. Help me pleasseeeee! I just rebuilt my Yz250f and when I go to kick it it just makes this PLOINK sound, sounds like when you drop something in the toilet (sorry for the example but that is a very accurate comparison of what it sounds like) it’s very strange, I’ve had the same problem before after rebuilding a Chinese 125cc pit bike about a year ago but I can’t remember what the issue was. The bike won’t start, I’ve checked for spark and i just finished the rebuild and it has started since. Could it be wrong timing? Thanks so much for your help guys. Also I’ve had the cylinder honed professionally and measured and everything is in spec and in good condition.
  16. Nickfree47

    Need help

    Hey guys I bought a dead 1984 Kawasaki kdx200 and I'm trying to revive it. I bought a brand new inner rotor ignition system and installed it so I have spark coming from my plug. However every time I go to kick start this thing I get a wet plug and it won't start. It will make a quick noise like it's about to start but it never will. I've tried new plugs, and new gas, cleaned the carb and still no start. Any idea at what could be happening? Thanks guys.
  17. My bike wont start.(kx125) I bought the bike a little over a month ago with the motor in peices. Had new hot rod crank installed but he didnt put the top end back together and clutch gears and thats when I got it. I got the motor put together and after got the motor in bike it started like 3rd kick.Ever since then I've had problems so the clutch wouldnt engage. Took it to the shop and got that working. Rode a little bit and after fixing other small things and having it run really good it wouldn't start. I could pull start it but it would cut off if i slow down but wont start kicking it. I dont know whats wrong it has spark,cleaned the carb,and is getting air. I took the head off today today to take a look at the piston it has come coloration but nothing out out the ordinary my head does look a little beat tho. Can Someone help or send me in the right direction! Please!
  18. Hey just wanted to post up a problem I had with a hard start issue that I was able to solve. Hope this helps...... This issue would have led many of us carb owners to chase our tails so I feel compelled to share my experience. After a long days ride in Baja mexico just recently, we arrived at our destination of Mikes sky rancho. When I turned my 15,000 mile DRZ400s off for the night it was in perfect working order. The next morning I turned my manual fuel petcock to the "ON" position and proceeded to crank the bike without any luck of it starting. It hickuped and choked and after a long time, and nearly a dead battery, it kicked over and ran great........ BUT every time I tried to re start it, same issue. I did not have this issue at all the previous day. It turns out that it was a leaking float bowl seal flooding the engine causing it to run fine once started but gave me hell when re starting. In the picture below its number 18.....the housing that the needle seal fits into was the part that was leaking. It has a circular o ring. this is what I'm talking about......
  19. Highlander01

    1994 DR350SE starting issues

    Hi All, After searching and digging up info on this site for a while now, it's finally time to ask a question. First, I want to thank everyone for all the information I've found on here. It's been a huge help in bringing the DR back to life. As the title says, I have 1994 Suzuki DR350SE (electric start) that is having some starting troubles. It's actually my roommate's bike and it's been sitting for at least a year. He agreed to pay for all the parts and to let me ride it if I got it working (he's gone every summer and fall), so I read through the FSM and started with the basics. First thing I did was replace the battery and luckily it fired right up. After that, I put fresh fuel in the tank, swapped out the old cracked fuel lines for new ones, Adjusted the chain tension, changed the spark plug, changed the oil / oil filter, cleaned the bike up, and went out for a ride. It ran great accept for a lot of popping on deceleration when in gear, but after I got the bike good and hot and shut it off, it wouldn't start again (just kept cranking). I let it sit overnight and it fired up first try the next day. I took it for another long ride, turned it off and then tried to start it again. It fired up a second time, so I went out for another rip around town, came home, turned it off, and no dice. Since that day, I've taken the carb apart (which was way cleaner than expected), checked the jets, checked the float needle, etc, and gave it a quick clean. I put the carb back in and went to start it and it cranked but didn't turn over, so I pulled the plug and checked for spark. Nothing.. Broke out the multimeter and checked resistance on the ignition coil, pickup coil, and source coil. All were within the specs in the FSM. I cleaned the electric connectors which all looked a little dirty, but okay. I also checked the kill switches for the clutch and kick stand, thinking that one would be the culprit, but it appears that both have been removed and bypassed by the previous owner. At the end of a day of troubleshooting, I put everything back together and found a hill to try a bumpstart. It bumped on the second try and I went around for a quick ride. Came home, turned it off, and it wouldn't start. As it did the last few times, it would crank and crank and crank and not fire up. Battery still reads high 12v, plug doesn't appear to be wet, and the float bowl has plenty of fuel in it. I'm sure i'm missing something, but the only other thing I can think of that's left is the CDI unit... I've read that the ignition coil can be bad even though it's within spec, but it was replaced about a year ago. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Looking forward to getting this thing back on the road!
  20. Throttle returns to original position very slowly. If possible reply to ****************@gmail.com.
  21. So i just rebuild my top end of my 2005 250F, i had 35 houres on my piston and cylinder so i decided to rebuild it. it ran perfectly before the rebuild, my timing is right, i have spark, en my sparkplug is a little wet so i have fuel... If i try to kick it it starts to run but after 2seconds it stops running. does anyone know what i have to do? thx Medard from belgium
  22. SOLVED*** No timing issue, just had trouble lining up TDC Going to rebuild top end to fix low compression. Thanks for the help TT So I bought my 2003 crf230f a few months ago from a friend. The bike has definitely been ridden, and was blowing a little bit of smoke when I bought it so I knew the rings would be toast sooner or later. After a basic tune-up the bike ran really strong and I continued to ride it a few times a week for a couple months with no problems... Until last week when I was riding and it died on me. At the moment when the bike died, I was coasting down a hill so there was no extra stress on the engine, I just noticed the engine shut off- almost like running out of gas. From that moment on, the bike would not start so I towed it home and checked the essentials... Air, Fuel, Spark, Compression. Air- The new air filter I installed when I bought the bike was already covered in dust, so its possible the piston rings got even more dusted. I cleaned and oiled the filter anyway (the bike wouldn't start with the filter removed). Fuel- I recently changed my jetting to Mike Coe specs, and installed a larger pilot jet to eliminate popping on deceleration. The bike ran great with the new jetting and I know the carb is clean. I went ahead and cleaned out the gas tank and fuel lines and cleaned out the carb yet again. Spark- Spark plug was white due to running lean before I changed the jetting. Plug turned more of a brown color after jetting, indicating better A/F ratio. Replaced spark plug anyway and can see strong blue spark. Also, gas is making it to the plug. Finally did a compression test and had low compression. I adjusted the valves which were a bit out of spec, and saw no improvement. A wet compression test (one tsp oil in plug hole) showed higher compression, but still low, indicating the piston rings are toast. I ordered new rings and top end gaskets and will rebuild the top end next week. I was also wondering if I have a timing issue, since the engine at TDC (pic 1) shows the cam sprocket about 30 degrees (in the retarded position?) off from being horizontal with the head, as it should be according to the FSM and Clymer manuals. Also, when cranking the engine CCW by hand, the flywheel tends to spin past TDC and happens to align the cam sprocket perfectly horizontal with the head. Is my timing way off? Also, the flywheel has a || mark (pic 2) near TDC that I used to adjust the valves. Just today when I took the pictures, I noticed a |F mark (pic 4) that usually spins past quickly so I never saw it before. both marks appear close to TDC but the engine always wants to spin to the natural position (pic 5). Where is my true TDC? Manuals only show a |T mark. Are the cam sprocket lines supposed to be horizontal with the head? Maybe it jumped a tooth? I have read the cam chain tensioners are known to fail also. Edit: Found the T mark, updated photo near bottom of thread tl;dr Bike died on me, has low compression, going to rebuild top end. See pictures. Could this be a timing issue also? Does anyone know if the lines on the camshaft sprocket are supposed to line up with the horizontal lines on the head? Thanks in advance for the help! Pic 1- TDC at || https://imgur.com/QJXXjXH Pic 2- || mark https://imgur.com/v7dBSf8 Pic 3- TDC at |F https://imgur.com/DZCPBaT Pic 4- |F mark https://imgur.com/JbcVYhF Pic 5- Engine wants to spin to this position: Cam sprocket lines horizontal with head- https://imgur.com/S3rPRgd Let me know what you guys think. Has my timing jumped? I appreciate your help! Cheers, Spencer Edit: Finally found the damn "T" mark. Always spins past so I wasn't able to see it before. Updated picture posted near bottom of thread. Timing looks fine so just going to rebuild top end next week to restore compression
  23. jason0827

    97' yz250 wont start

    just bought a 1997 yz250 and i didn't get to ride it yet but when my dad was he said the power-band was not kicking in right so he was riding it around the yard and the bike started bogging really heavy and cut off every sense then it wont crank at all. ive replaced the plug, new gas, cleaned the carb and jets, and clean the air filter. i did the park plug thing where you put it on the frame and kick it over to see if it had spark and it had a blue one. i have a blister on my foot from kicking it so much. please help im pretty despret.
  24. 2smokerippa

    Bike wont start. HELP!!

    A while back i was riding my 1995 KTM 300 EXC and then the next day it refused to start. I made sure that it wasn't my carburetor, so the next thing i could check is my stator. Now im not sure what it is suppose to read but i tested each wire and this is what each read. Black wire to Red wire - 1.531 Meg Ohms Green wire to Red wire - 1.531 Meg Ohms Green wire to Black wire - 173.1 Ohms Yellow wire to yellow wire - .4 Ohms any information anyone can supply would be greatly appreciated Thanks!
  25. Na Bikes

    Dirt bike wont start!

    Hello everybody! I just picked up an 03 yz250 and I have my first problems (my fault). Upon inspecting the air filter, I found that it was probably the original one from 2003. After clearing it out by hand, I put a clean rag in the air box for the time being. I drained out the mystery premix that was left in the tank, and added a gallon of yamalube 32:1. It started right up, and I wanted to clear it out a bit, so I floored it in first gear. Like an idiot, I completely forgot I had stuffed a rag in the airbox. It got sucked all the way in, and suffocated the bike after I floored it. I pulled the airbox, unclogged the rag, and checked the intake side of the carb as well as the reeds. Everything was clear of debris/ rag remains. Now I cannot get her to start. Starter fluid wont work. Fuel poured in the cylinder wont work, and I am baffled. I have spark when kicking it over and grounding it on the case. I even replaced the plug, hoping it had been fouled/flooded when the bike suffocated. Anybody have any ideas or suggestions? Is there a procedure I could follow to make sure its not flooded/ to drain it? Thanks in advance Nate