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Found 23 results

  1. I have a 2008 YZ450F with a stock header pipe and Pro Circuit T-4 Slip-On Exhaust. I'm 99% sure the slip on is shot because its loud as hell and when I take it off and shake it it rattles. I would repack it but the screws are all stripped ect. Anyways I've gone over the carb multiple times and I've got it running pretty well. The only issue I have with the bike is that it sputters and pops around 1/2 throttle when I hold it there. When I give it full throttle from any RPM it runs great or when I give it about 3/4 throttle it spins up like a top to redline. Initially the popping and sputtering was way worse I made the situation better by moving the pilot jet up in a few sizes from a 45 (stock) to a 62. The issue has gotten way better since then but I'm not super sure what to do from here. Should I keep moving my pilot jet up in size because that's a pretty large jump right? I tried changing my needle clip position but that didn't help much if anything it just made starting it worse and little to no impact on the ride. Any input on this would be helpful. I don't want to buy other slip on. Also as for the rest of the carb I'm very sure everything else in it is what it needs to be at. I've replaced all the gaskets and O-rings cleaned all the jets, valve holes ect. fixed the accelerator pump timing. I just thinks its strange that my pilot jet size is going so far from the stock 45, but all symptoms point to the bike running lean.
  2. Evan Dodd

    Fork break in?

    Just replaced my entire suspension and the forks are very stiff even when loosened all the way. I was wondering if the forks just needed to be ridden on to break them in.
  3. Hey everyone! Today I bought my first WR450F! It's a 2013 plated in California! Super stoked on the bike and already want to get into it and start customizing. Let me know if there is anything I need to know because this is all new to me, my past experience has been with DRZ's so this is completely different. The main questions I have about the bike is about the ecu, programming, and maps. I have never dealt with computers on bikes before so all of this seems like witchcraft to me. The previous owner did the ecu upgrade to what he says is a "programmable YZ ecu". He was an old guy that did very light trail riding and he said he got it tuned for that kind of riding. My plans for the bike is mostly street, i'm going to be purchasing supermoto wheels soon but I also want to do some off roading. I'd say i'm going to use the bike for 80% streets and 20% dirt. Do you guys think I should get the ecu reprogrammed? He gave me the stock ecu aswell, should I put that one back on? I'm used to a slow DRZ so to me its super fast. The bike has a slip on LEXX exhaust from what I can tell. Let me know any information you have about all the Yamaha computer stuff or refer me to any good sites that explain this stuff. Anything is greatly appreciated. I'll provide a picture of the bike and also the current map that is has on it so you can tell me if it's good or not.
  4. Hi All, This is first time I have ever used a forum, thought I would give it a try to see if anyone else has come across this. I know it's becoming quite an old bike now the 426 range, but I never had the opportunity to own one until now. I had some issues starting it (as everyone who doesn't weigh more than 14 stone) so I brought a Hotcam from the USA. Fitted it no probs, until it came to running it up. Now it will not throttle up. I'm tempted to throw the old cam back in it to see what it does. It's great at starting now throttle it a couple of time and then kick, but open the throttle slowly or fast and it wont rev past about 3000 rpm (estimated). I'm a BMW bike mechanic, So I'm pretty clued up on this. I have checked the valve timing twice, and the carb just incase it is because I left it for 6 months, valve clearances are all spot on and re-shimmed but still feels odd, like the ignition trimming is retarded. Throttle it and it makes that horrible induction roar could also be lean mixture or air leak. Obviously I have checked all of these, except putting the old can back in it (which is probably a good option) But I just don't want to. I like being 9 stone and able to kick a 426! Any help would be amazing please guys! Thanks in advance
  5. RiDiculous

    WR450F or YZ450F

    I've been riding a KDX 220R and want to move up to a bigger bike, but I'm not sure which one of these is right for me. I haven't sold my bikes yet, so keep in mind I don't have my mind set on one that's for sale. I'm looking for a 2008 - 2009 YZ450F or a 2009 - 2011 (they didn't sell the 2010 in the US) WR450F. I'm not really sure which one is right for me though. I ride on the road to get to my riding spots so a speedometer and a brake light would be good, but I'm not sure of the WR would be good for track riding. I usually ride trails, so I'm leaning more towards the WR, but I'd also like to get into track riding and I'm not sure if the WR has the power for that. I'm really leaning towards the WR because of the suspension, body (headlight, taillight, ect.), and reliability. I haven't heard much about the YZ450F but any opinions you have on the bikes are much appreciated.
  6. Hey all, I've been having problems with my throttle position sensor on my Yamaha WR450F 2005. When the sensor is plugged in the bike runs very lumpy on constant throttle and is nearly un-ride-able. In the manual, and all over the internet, there are values of which the TPS must be set at and what resistance it should have. These are : 4-6 ohms resistance 0.58 - 0.78 volts My TPS is set perfectly within these values, being 4.9ohms and 0.72 volts. This indicates to me that my TPS is fine and there is no point buying another? But as soon as i unplug the sensor it does run NEARLY perfect, still very very slightly lumpy but hardly noticeable. Has anyone else had correct readings on their TPS but still isn't working? any help? I don't want to spend £300 on a sensor then it not actually be the problem? Thanks
  7. G'day Guys, I have a 2004 WR450F and I have been given a 2009 WR450 digital speedo and wiring harness and I would like to fit the digital speedo to the 04 model. Has anyone successfully achieved this and may have any tips etc you could share? I have tried searching the forum with no success Cheers
  8. Hey TT! I am normally on the Two Stroke fourm, but now I've decided to get a Street Legal WR250R... Here's everything I want for it: 2010 Yamaha WR250R (E-Start): $4,500.00 Registration and Fees: $440.00 Twin Air Air Filter: $30.00 Pirelli Scorpion Rally Tire Combo: $210.00 FMF Megabomb Header: $275.00 FMF Q4 Muffler: $380.00 GYTR 14T Front Sprocket: $27.00 Renthal 48T Rear Sprocket: $70.00 Renthal RC High Handlebars: $80.00 Yoshimura Fender Eliminator: $152.00 SoloRacer Low-Profile Mirrors: $57.00 Custom Graphics: $118.00 Black Ribbed Seat Cover: $56.00 That's about all I can think of, is there anything that I'm missing? Also is the 2010 an E-Start? I need that.
  9. Hi all, I've got a 2015 WR250F with approximately 45 hours with regular oil and filter changes. I'm a novice rider who only trail rides in slow single track (average speed is normally 24 ish km/h) I've had a look through the previous threads but most of them seem to only be regarding the older WR models, not the new EFI/reverse cylinder ones (and shared with the FX). Just wondering what maintance would be recommended and at what time points? I.e. 100h to replace the piston and cam chain etc. Cheers
  10. Hi all, Bought a 2007 WR450F a couple months ago. Electric start was working fine, and worked for a few weeks without issue. Recently the red ignition button light stopped glowing when clicking the On/Off button and readying to start. I kick started to get it home without problem, and kicked to start a few time after that without problem. When I got around to looking into it, the battery read at 11V. I replaced the battery and a blown 10A fuse on the positive (right hand) side. Also noticed that the 90 degree inlet on the carb was leaking, so I replaced the 3 O-rings (# 3TJ-14564-40-00) to stop the leak. Upon starting, the bike idled fine, and ran great for about a half mile before dying. Again, red ignition button light stopped glowing. My *assumption* is that the fuse blew again, but I cannot yet confirm. I was on my way to work, so I haven't had time to look into it yet. I'm fairly strong mechanically, but don't know much about electrical. My guess is that this is not an easy fix-- maybe a short, and I'm looking for advice on where to start. I appreciate the help guys!
  11. Hi all, I'm interested in a good left hand rear brake set-up for the WR250R. Saw the OXbrake but as it uses a cable instead of a hydraulic cylinder so I heard it lacks power. So I'm looking at the left hand rear brake kit made by Rekluse. The problem however, is the R's rear master cylinder isn't supported. So I'm thinking I'll swap the master cylinder out for one that is, and install the kit. So would anyone be able to tell me which of the following Yamaha rear master cylinders would be a straight swap for the R? Rekluse offers the left hand rear brake kit for all of them: ALTERNATIVELY: I have a 2012 Kawasaki ZX-6R front brake master cylinder and lever from my wreck. What if I found a way to fit that on the bar and just ran a braided line straight to the rear brake caliper and did away with the rear brake pedal completely? Sounds crazy but could it work? Thanks heaps in advance!
  12. Chance Ainscough

    New(to me) 02' Wr 426

    Hey Folks, Iv'e followed this forum for a while just for advice purposes and had great luck from all the information iv'e found so far. Unfortunately I have got myself a problem that I cant seem to find any insight into and its probably just my ignorance to dirtbikes and my bike in general but, hopfully some of you can shed some light onto my lowly knowledge. Right to it then- I just got myself a WR426. While looking it up ive found they are a pain in the arse to start. I spent hours just researching all the different "techniques" people use to start the bikes. I have found that the kicking down to TDC then pulling decomp and kicking through it about 1 inch rouchly, letting go of the decomp, raise the kick to the very top and haull ass through. Unfortunately out here in Nb, Canada, our weathers beenr anging from -10 to -30 so, the bike isnt starting right now (its a monster to start in good weather i hear so i wasnt hopeful of anything). NOW. I went away for a month and have had the bike parked in a unheated garage. I got home last night and figured id go outside and check the bike out and see if i could MAYBE get it going. I jumped on and went to do the drill. The kick wont move. Pulled decomp and tried to push through. Nothing. I noticed the rad fluid was frozen (before i left I unscrewed the cap to let any freezing that may have happened have somewhere to go and the cap is now stuck. That aside I didnt know if these bikes have anything that could freeze in them etc that could be causing this issue. The motor is brand new with about 10 hours on it. Is this just a case of, let the bike sit till its warm and see what its like in the summer months or should i take another course of action. Any help is much appreciated, and if anyon has any suggestions for how the bike should be started let me know! Thanks folks.
  13. Hi people, My bike (2009 Husqvarna wr250) has been running like a dog lately. It won't hit band when its cold and it's just generally not running like it should. I took my reeds out and there is a slight light gap between some of them, roughly .07mm gap. It's not a huge gap but I'm not sure if there's meant to be a tolerance of some sort as it does not state such a thing in the workshop manual. From what I know reeds should be dead flat with no light gap at all. However, I will be replacing them just in case. Some people who I have spoken to have advised making sure thet the carburettor jetting is set to standard. I have the Husqvarna workshop manual and have found the "standard jetting". Problem is it's just a whole heap of numbers and codes so I have literally no idea what it means. The only thing I understand on it is that the pilot jet should be set on the second slot which it already is. I was hoping someone on here could make sense of it. I have attached images of the husqvarna manual jetting information. Thanks for the help in advance -Ryan
  14. Hi I got my son PW50 and he loves it, now it's time to get myself a bike. I'm a beginner, 5'9" 200lbs. My use would be basically trial riding with my son. I was considering a crf230 or ttr230 but have heard it may be too small etc... I definitely want a 4 stroke low maintenance bike- advice? Must appreciated
  15. Ghent's05KDX200

    Transmission Oil

    My manual says to run oil 10w-30 or 10w-40. What brand makes the best clutch oil for a two stroke? What oil do you guys and girls run in your Two stroke dirt bikes? any particular ones to stay away from? Also, semi synthetic, full synthetic, or non synthetic?
  16. There are no crf 250x's where i live but there are a lot of wr 250f's. Would this be a good trail bike for me? i am 15 6 foot and 150 pounds and have a raptor 250 and had a ttr 125. I ride on trails and backroads and like to wheelie.
  17. FatCowKiller

    Does this cam look damaged

    Does this cam look damaged? I bought a used one online but can't tell if it's good or bad. The right side doesn't feel perfectly smooth but yet it doesn't feel scratched either.
  18. brady murphy

    2004 wr450 parts

    I've posted here before looking for wr450 engine. I haven't found one yet for a reasonable price so I thought I'd try again. I'm looking for just the engine but a whole bike would be great also. Let me know what everyone has.
  19. I have a 2004 Yamaha WR250F that the previous owner modified and the bike doesn’t run the way it should. It has an FMF muffler with an aftermarket pipe coming from the engine. There’s no other silencers or restrictions in the exhaust. When I got the bike, it was backfiring every time I let off the throttle no matter what speed I was doing. When the previous owner first started the bike, part of the exhaust pipe was cherry red while he was warming it up by giving it more throttle. I took the carburetor apart and found out that I have a 178 main jet, 40 pilot jet, and 72 leak jet. The needle clip was in the middle in the 4th position. I adjusted the fuel screw back to the 1.5 turns out position from the 3.5 turns out position the previous owner had it set at. I changed out the pilot jet to a 45 and the bike no longer backfires while I ride it but it does die when I leave it to idle. Sometimes it dies immediately after letting off the throttle and other times it will idle for a minute or two before dying. Now before this gets too confusing, I ran the bike with the fuel screw at 1.5 turns out and 3.5 turns out after changing the pilot jet. At 1.5 turns out, the bike would only run when choked and would die when idling. At 3.5 turns out, the bike will run with the choke off but will still die when idling. If anyone has any suggestions to try, please let me know.
  20. Dillon Downing

    Yz400f crankshaft fit in wr400f?

    Hello, I was rebuilding my bottom end in my 1999 wr400 because the crankshaft broke on it. Bought a 1998 yz400 crank to put in it and after measuring them, the can chain timing gear on the crank is ~0.5mm different between the two along the shaft. The rod bearings on the yz are also bigger but that shouldn't be an issue. Should I be ok or do I need to buy a wr specific crank off of fleabay? Thanks for the responses!
  21. Sage D'Amato

    2003 YZ 125 spitting oil

    I have a 2003 yz125, it’s excessively dripping oil out of the silencer and where it meets the exhaust, there’s a lot of oil, it’s throwing out huge amounts of smoke and starting to foul out plugs. I’ve already replaced the clutch side seal (I’m almost positive it’s coming from the transmission oil) and repacked the exhaust. After that it seemed to stop or at least slowed down. After sitting for a couple months I changed the transmission oil once again and started it up, I let it warm up and didn’t feel like it had the normal amount of power and kinda bogged down, we revved the hell out of it and it cleared up and felt normal. We loaded up and drove out the the desert and I started it with the choke on and let it idle, after about a minute it died and wouldn’t turn over at all. We came back home and took out the spark plug and it was fouled replaced it and it ran again. The next day the same thing happened. Any thoughts on what I should do? The engine was recently rebuilt and I only use it for trail riding and run about a 40:1 ratio. Thanks
  22. Hey everyone, I just installed the GYTR FMF slip on exhaust today and got a few different problems. First thing I noticed was after turning the bike off, the exhaust started smoking out the back. Not a whole lot, but a noticeable amount of white smoke. When installing the exhaust I replaced the header gasket, and I also but Ultra Black Sealant on the slip on part of the exhaust. I'm assuming I used the wrong type of gasket sealant and that's what burning and creating smoke? It doesn't smell like burning oil or coolant, kinda smells like burning plastic if I had to describe it. Not very worried about this though, I guess i'll just let it all burn off or if it doesn't stop smoking, I will take it back off and try to clean it and use the right stuff. My big problem is the amount of backfiring; It only happens on deceleration. I did a quick check for exhaust leaks right after installing and didn't find any. I will do a more thorough check tomorrow. The exhaust that was on it before was a super heavy Lexx exhaust that was really quiet and probably very restrictive. Also the current map set is for super smooth and slow acceleration, all 0's and -'s (See picture below of the map). I'm assuming this smooth of a map is where my backfiring problem is? This is making me run lean correct? How safe is it to run the bike like this? Because I need to ride the bike tomorrow and my tuner won't come in until later in the week. Picture of my current map (middle one) & video of crazy backfiring:
  23. Hi guys, a couple of weeks ago the electric starter on my 05 wr250f quit working after working like a charm for a couple of years without any issues. It still started pretty easy kicking it but I put a brand new battery in it to see if that would fix the electric start but that didn't do the trick. I'm decently handy at working on my bike but i don't want to start playing around with the electric start unit/other electrical components so i decided i want to take it to a shop to get fixed up. While its there I was going to ask them to rebuild the carb since its been sitting for a while and could use a rebuild/re-jetting. Anyways, i want to see if anyone else has had a shop do a carb rebuild and/or fix the electric start on their wr250f, and how much $$$ it cost. I'd like to have an idea of how much it cost for you guys so I can have a good gauge on how the shops will price the job. Any shared experiences will be appreciated!!! Thanks
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