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Found 18 results

  1. I have a 2004 Yamaha WR250F that the previous owner modified and the bike doesn’t run the way it should. It has an FMF muffler with an aftermarket pipe coming from the engine. There’s no other silencers or restrictions in the exhaust. When I got the bike, it was backfiring every time I let off the throttle no matter what speed I was doing. When the previous owner first started the bike, part of the exhaust pipe was cherry red while he was warming it up by giving it more throttle. I took the carburetor apart and found out that I have a 178 main jet, 40 pilot jet, and 72 leak jet. The needle clip was in the middle in the 4th position. I adjusted the fuel screw back to the 1.5 turns out position from the 3.5 turns out position the previous owner had it set at. I changed out the pilot jet to a 45 and the bike no longer backfires while I ride it but it does die when I leave it to idle. Sometimes it dies immediately after letting off the throttle and other times it will idle for a minute or two before dying. Now before this gets too confusing, I ran the bike with the fuel screw at 1.5 turns out and 3.5 turns out after changing the pilot jet. At 1.5 turns out, the bike would only run when choked and would die when idling. At 3.5 turns out, the bike will run with the choke off but will still die when idling. If anyone has any suggestions to try, please let me know.
  2. So I am looking at buying a WR250 or WR450 soon. I have been riding road bikes my whole life and currently own a nice little R1 but I realise dirt bikes are a whole new world of riding so I am looking for advice really on what bike I should get. Not really ridden dirty bikes for a good 15 years and I am not a particularly big person so my question is, what bike? the 450 or the 250? Kinda have my heart set on the 450 but people warn me off saying its "too powerful" and it is a "beast" etc. Any opinions would be great because basically I am "noob" to the whole dirt bike scene. Also to add; I am only going to be using it on roads and green lanes etc. Never going to use it on a track Cheers 👍
  3. I'm currently considering a 2000 DRZ 400 with 31,000 miles on it. The owner wants $2500 for it but I think I could get it down to $2000 since it's so old. It seems like the owner knew what he was doing and took care of it well since he knew to install a manual cam chain tensioner, a radiator guard, 3x3 mod, etc. I know the DRZ has a solid motor so I feel like if the bike itself has been well taken care of, it should at least have another 20K miles in it, right? Am I wasting my time with this bike or do you think it will last me if I take good care of it? What would you offer for this bike? Here's the post: https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mcy/5989999685.html
  4. When I first got this bike the people were 30 mins late and they said they were getting gas... and they rode the bike to me where we were meeting (strange because they drove an hour to meet me). They had to be trying to start the bike for that entire time. When they rode the bike over to me I shut it off and started it about 4 times and ran fine. No popping/ fluttering. I drove back home and I cant get the bike to start since then. I contacted dude and he said it was very hard to start and he said make sure the fuel pump turns on (these guys are not mechanically inclined to the slightest. The bike was missing lots of bolts) He claimed he replace the stator and for them to get the bike to start they hooked it up to a car battery to jump it; which took about 10 mins with 2/3 throttle. Since then I have checked: -Took fuel pump apart, the filter was slighty dirty so I cleaned with break cleaner. I also have gas in the fuel line. Also fresh gas (pump 93). Also swapped tanks completly from a running bike (2014 yz250f same part number tanks and fuel pump). - Cleaned throttle body and made sure I was getting a good stream of gas through the injector. - Getting good consitant spark. - Took connections apart and filled with dialectric grease - Checked fuses - Checked the valves They were way out of spec and I am suprised it ran like it did with the valves that far from spec. I will revisit this today to make sure I didn't do something wrong. Clearances I used were Intake: 0.12mm-0.19mm Exhaust 0.17mm-0.24mm (Motor smells burnt as well) - The battery has a voltage of 12.3 - Compression was about 85 (did not use a leak down tester) - took the fly wheel off to make sure the key way was still there. - I tried jumping it off the car just like the other goons did out of anger. Nothing. Then I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it started and ran like shit and had to keep the throttle about half way. After I did this when the starter is on the bike it makes a grinding noise when I kick it. When the starter is off the bike, the noise no longer exists. While I had the starter off the bike the shaft moved freely. Then I hooked up a negative to where it bolts to the motor and a positve to the connector and it worked like it should with out any noise. I think I need to solve the starting noise before I can dig into the root problem of the bike not starting. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Hi guys, I have a 2000 wr400 supermoto. I was wondering if anyone has herd of an oil pick up mod. I had a buddy that blew up his wr250 because he was stunting and doing wheelies, apparently oil wasn't reaching the oil pump with the front wheel up. Anyone know if this is an issue for the w400 and how to fix it.
  6. does anyone know if a 1997 Yamaha WR250z is legal on your L's/LAMS?
  7. I would like to buy a decent used wheel or maybe have a new rear wheel built for my old WR. It is a 95 WR250Z. Has an 18" rear wheel. How does one go about finding a used wheel that would fit? Anybody know what wheels would have all the correct hubspacing, disc rotor mounts, etc that I could search for? This was not a terribly common bike and the rear wheel is one major difference between the YZ of that era. If anyone could offer me help, that would be great, or link to another thread where this has been discussed?
  8. Hello, short introduction. I live in Thailand and only ride snotty rocky single track. I have a Suzuki rm250, Yamaha wr250f and just finished the build of a 98 wr250. I took the wr250 out yesterday for the first time, all bottom end done with new bearings, conrod, etc. engine runs great with the fmf fatty gold series and pro circuit silencer.However....when the bike hits the power band all traction is lost and just spins the wheel. It feels like this beast has so much more power then the other bikes. where my rmx lugs up the hill the wr250 just goes mental! I am running 13/50 gearing. any suggestions are welcome. steahly 11 or 13 oz.? and what else to tame the hit, i really don't need the hit as i rarely see open terrain. its all up or down rocky. Thanks. I am a bit disappointed with the useless power at the moment especially its a WR with already a heavier flywheel, 18 inch rear, wide ratio. Thanks
  9. I've read an article on TT about this already, but that was posted in 2006. I want to know that if I buy a 2001 WR426, can I make it street legal? If so, what do I need to buy, what forms do I need to fill out, what is required?
  10. Hi all, I'm interested in a good left hand rear brake set-up for the WR250R. Saw the OXbrake but as it uses a cable instead of a hydraulic cylinder so I heard it lacks power. So I'm looking at the left hand rear brake kit made by Rekluse. The problem however, is the R's rear master cylinder isn't supported. So I'm thinking I'll swap the master cylinder out for one that is, and install the kit. So would anyone be able to tell me which of the following Yamaha rear master cylinders would be a straight swap for the R? Rekluse offers the left hand rear brake kit for all of them: ALTERNATIVELY: I have a 2012 Kawasaki ZX-6R front brake master cylinder and lever from my wreck. What if I found a way to fit that on the bar and just ran a braided line straight to the rear brake caliper and did away with the rear brake pedal completely? Sounds crazy but could it work? Thanks heaps in advance! 👍
  11. So my 2013 WR250F was stolen from my apartments gated parking garage while I was at work. This happened at the end of November. It might be more or less pointless to post this now since its been so long since its was stolen, but I thought Id throw it out anyways. I filed a police report, but nothings come up. My complex has cameras too so they got a video of a silver Nissan Frontier coming in with an empty bed and leaving with my bike in the back. If anybody happens to have any info or recognizes the truck id appreciate it. Ill attache a picture of the bike and some still frames of the truck. I should have had it chained to the wall, but you live and learn.
  12. Hello all, I just recently bought a 1999 Husqvarna WR250, It has some problem with the clutch, so its got a new clutch cable which i have no issues with, but when I start the bike and put it into 1st it will stall unless im giving it some gas, as soon as I am riding and stop giving it gas even with clutch pulled in it will die unless im in 'N', and sometimes not every time but pretty often when i go into first and give it some gas again with the clutch lever pulled in I will roll forward. So im pretty new to dirt bikes and such, but i've read up online and some people it say a plate in the clutch area can get chewed up and it won't disengage properly, some say i need a new clutch, or an adjustment somewhere else, so finally my questions -Is there an adjustment not related to the clutch cable that i can try to make? -parts for my bike seem few and far between is there a bike out there that has the same clutch so if i need new plates and such i can get them from another bike? Seriously thanks for any help, looking forward to fixing this and really enjoying some dirt biking!! Thanks.
  13. Hi, this is my first post ever on a forum. I will take any advice at all. I have a 2006 Yamaha Wr250f that is having MAJOR clutch problems. I have had the bike for a while and it has always had clutch drag since day 1.. It had oem clutch plates and basket and the bike is stock other than exhaust. When the bike was in gear, if I pulled the clutch in and tried to start, it would move forward and not start. WILL NOT START IN GEAR. When bike is running, if I am on flat ground, put the bike in gear and have the clutch pulled in, it moves forward. I have lowered the idle speed to wear the bike barely idles and it still goes forward. The bike also is NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE to shift into neutral when running. It also has false neutrals when shifting often. If I ride for 1 hour, there are at 5-10 false neutrals... something is clearly not right. I inspected clutch plates, pressure plates looked fine, not worn or super dark, but the CLUTCH BASKET, had groves worn The whole way around. I carefully filed down and put plates back in with fresh oil and ITS WORSE THAN BEFORE. i have tried messing with the tension of the clutch cable and that is not the problem. I just today installed a new wiseco clutch basket and plates which I soaked in oil for hours before. I put the bike back together carefully, go to start the bike in first gear with clutch pulled in and it JUMPS FORWARD AND HITS MY GARAGE DOOR! Something is not right, I have to be missing something. I have looked over the entire clutch schematic and everything is put together correctly. I have adjusted clutch cable tension and that is not it, I have tried changing oil. I tried holding in clutch leaver for 2 mins while bike is warming up to have oil circulate through plates and it helps a little, but that is defiantly not the problem. I checked # 23 and #24 rod also since another forum said the rods could be worn and they are like brand new. someone please help as I can not understand what I am missing and am not an a mature with rebuilding clutches and dirt bikes. Any help is appreciated.
  14. Ran engine without oil, it has a knock and is leaking from the upper head. I need to have it looked at soon and can't afford dealership prices.
  15. Hi people, My bike (2009 Husqvarna wr250) has been running like a dog lately. It won't hit band when its cold and it's just generally not running like it should. I took my reeds out and there is a slight light gap between some of them, roughly .07mm gap. It's not a huge gap but I'm not sure if there's meant to be a tolerance of some sort as it does not state such a thing in the workshop manual. From what I know reeds should be dead flat with no light gap at all. However, I will be replacing them just in case. Some people who I have spoken to have advised making sure thet the carburettor jetting is set to standard. I have the Husqvarna workshop manual and have found the "standard jetting". Problem is it's just a whole heap of numbers and codes so I have literally no idea what it means. The only thing I understand on it is that the pilot jet should be set on the second slot which it already is. I was hoping someone on here could make sense of it. I have attached images of the husqvarna manual jetting information. Thanks for the help in advance -Ryan
  16. I have a 1996 wr 250. I need a new bottom end and from what I've read wr's are made from yz parts that are two years old. Could anyone confirm I could use this crank
  17. Usually how long will you replace the clutch plates? My 2016 WR250F with 10000km(6250 miles) and 230 hours engine time. Is it too much for the stock clutch? My riding style for each ride is 90km(56mi) highway plus 10-20km(6-13mi) offroad.
  18. I can hardly contain myself guys. I am less than one week away from picking up my new WR250F in Yellow. I would say I am coming from KTM, but I have to admit I still plan on owning at least one KTM for the indefinite future. I fly to Perth from Darwin town (Northern Territory, Australia) on Monday next week to ride with family and friends South of Perth Western Australia (also KTM and Yamaha guys - ^%&*%^* yeah). I have organised to buy a WR250F from a dealer in Perth. 5 Star Yamaha in Hamilton Hill Perth, who provided excellent service from a year ago when I tyre kicked in their shop just out of interest to look at a Yammy, they prepped the bike and got it road legal, called me back and helped organise me a test ride when I even said I didnt have the money at the time, they didnt tell me to piss off as I expected. If there's any Perth guys out there that think the service sucks in Perth (I'm not saying it does, but I am not local either), you aint seen nothing yet compared top the NT Ex-Yamaha dealer who I wont name. My experience with these guys is a far cry from the Ex-Yamaha/ (currently) KTM dealer up here in D-town who told me "dont sit on the bikes" when I bought my KTM, even though I had 10K in my pocket. Anyway, I am keen to get a hold of my new Yamaha and start wearing it out like I did the much abused 200EXC. Cheers. Mark
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