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Found 62 results

  1. Does anyone know if a newer flywheel/starter gear/starter clutch(bearing) will fit a 2003 WR250F? I see that they changed the design some through the years, but I suspect that if I got everything from the crank thrust washer out that it would interchange just fine. It looks like the whole one-way bearing design changed in '04, which I'm not against as I believe that's what ultimately caused my failure. The rotor stays the same through '13. It looks like they added an actual thrust washer between the ring gear and the rotor in '06 (and I assume shortened the snout on the ring gear by that amount, thus the new p/n) and otherwise everything is the same through '13. I guess based on the above, I would assume everything from '04-'13 is swapable in the correct combinations, so my real question is if the change from '03-'04 made anything incompatible. Given that the stator itself is the same for '03 and '04, as is the intermediate starter gear that the ring gear meshes with, and although the crank shows a different part number aftermarket pieces are listed as '03+, I'm fairly certain it's a go. But verification from someone who knows never hurts. Not having to find one year specific parts would sure make things easier. Thanks!
  2. So here is the problem I am in; I want to freshen up my old 2001 WR250f, I currently have the Hurricane Hannah Graphics (Tells you when I last did this) in fact I got it by busting my butt for my dad when we were selling his house and he got the kit for me as a reward and we put it on (Great Memories); but back to being on topic. So I am searching online and I noticed that the pickings for a WR especially a 01 is about as good as a finding a women at a all male school right now. So I was wondering since the frame is unchanged until 2007 when they went to the Aluminum frame does anyone know if the 2001-2006 plastic will bolt on? Cause I want to find the Yellow Plastic again, as I am a huge fan of the old Yamaha graphics kit as you can see from my YZ250x and my 01 WR. Does anyone know who still makes yellow plastic for this old bike and if the 2001-2006 plastic (with minor mods as my 2001 YZ250f plastic that's on it needed a bit of modding) will fit on the bike? Thank you in Advance!
  3. Hi All, I am looking for a bike to start trail riding - no dirt biking experience up to this point. I found this offer today on the local classifieds: https://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/45131997 What do you guys think? Is this a good offer? I'm looking for a cheap, older bike I can learn on. Looking to do trail riding in the woods / mountains of Utah. If it's not a good offer, what would be a good price to offer for the bike? Also, how do we feel about a 2002? Is that too old? Will it have maintenance issues? Thanks
  4. Hi all, looking to do the grey wire mod on my wr250f but have questions on what to use for the switch and what type/guage of wire to use to install said switch. Basically, I'm either looking to put the switch up on the handlebars somewhere, or potentially in the air box. I want something relatively accessible as I often rotate the type of riding I'm doing. I guess if anyone has any links to sample products that works, or even a little bit more technical detail on what I'd need for the switch and wire, that would be great. Thanks!
  5. I have a 2001 wr250f, I am searching for a carb for it. I was wondering if anyone has put a different carb on and if so what it was.
  6. I have a 2004 Yamaha WR250F that the previous owner modified and the bike doesn’t run the way it should. It has an FMF muffler with an aftermarket pipe coming from the engine. There’s no other silencers or restrictions in the exhaust. When I got the bike, it was backfiring every time I let off the throttle no matter what speed I was doing. When the previous owner first started the bike, part of the exhaust pipe was cherry red while he was warming it up by giving it more throttle. I took the carburetor apart and found out that I have a 178 main jet, 40 pilot jet, and 72 leak jet. The needle clip was in the middle in the 4th position. I adjusted the fuel screw back to the 1.5 turns out position from the 3.5 turns out position the previous owner had it set at. I changed out the pilot jet to a 45 and the bike no longer backfires while I ride it but it does die when I leave it to idle. Sometimes it dies immediately after letting off the throttle and other times it will idle for a minute or two before dying. Now before this gets too confusing, I ran the bike with the fuel screw at 1.5 turns out and 3.5 turns out after changing the pilot jet. At 1.5 turns out, the bike would only run when choked and would die when idling. At 3.5 turns out, the bike will run with the choke off but will still die when idling. If anyone has any suggestions to try, please let me know.
  7. So we took our friend dirt biking for his first time, he's an excellent street rider, but has never been in the dirt before. He did quite well. Here's a little clip I made to highlight his day, hope you enjoy! Link: Abe's First Enduro Ride
  8. My 2016 wr250f already run 8000km (5000miles). If it climb a steep slope with low rpm, I will heard some knocking noise from the engine, I guess came from the valve. If I keep throttle few seconds, the engine will stall and cannot start. At this monent, the kick starter is easy to push with a single hand. So, I guess the valves are jammed. But few minutes later, it will become normal. This happenned twice in the last 3 rides. Any idea about this symptom?
  9. Hi Folks! I decided that I am tired of my 06 WR250F having horrible damping (i.e. none at all) and so am going to upgrade the suspension. My questions for you are, 1. Is it worth it, given the age of the bike and cost of the parts, to find old 06-07 YZ250F SSS twin chamber forks and shock and rebuild/upgrade them, or just install a gold valve or similar in my single chamber WR forks? I like the idea of bolting on YZ TC forks and shock, but the cost at this point for them both runs about $500-$600 and they are guaranteed to be clapped out and need a full rebuild/upgrade, just like my WR forks/shock. 2. Race Tech offers a compression gold valve available, but not a rebound gold valve. Can you tell me why this is? I would like both, of course. 3. Will YZ450F components work as well? If so, what year range? 4. Ohlins drop in cartridges look awesome, but front and rear would cost the worth of the bike ;-) Thank you for the help!
  10. Hey guys, I’ve been wondering on what bike i should get. I recently rode a wr250f for the first time and hopped on and wheelied it with ease. I was in 3rd gear and just snapped the throttle in a farm field, would i be able to do the same on a drz400e or would it not rev fast enough to have that snap? I did ride a ktm250sxf too and I liked the snap of that but the wr felt nicer to wheelie. I also like the yz250f and kx250f.
  11. I noticed a bit of play in my rear wheel the other day and was able to pinpoint that it was my linkage bearings. I ordered a pivot works kit and started disassembly. Most stuff started coming out fine but once I get the dust seals off, I uncover nothing but rust and rusty cake which used to be grease. Luckily I have all new bearings. The problem is getting the old bearings out. Ive got a vice, punches, big hammers, large sockets etc, but in my connecting rod, it looks like there's a machined shelf in the center of the hole between my two bearings meaning I can't just push them through. That would be way too easy. I haven't found any videos that hit on this topic but surely I can't be the only one who has encountered this. I've tried using a punch or screw driver to punch them out from the other side but then I just end up blowing out the race of the bearing. My last ditch option is to try and use a dremel to carefully grind it down until a piece of it can come off but I'm worried about screwing up the inside of the connecting rod. Next, I have to try and get the bearings out of the triangular linkage piece which seems like it has the same problem. If it were just one hole all the way though, this would have been done long ago. But because there's a machined shelf in the middle, its making my life a nightmare. I've been soaking them in penetrating oil, and trying to use heat but I just don't feel like its going anywhere. I don't even see how the Motion Pro tool would get this done. I replaced the shock bearings no problem. Anybody else with a similar bike have this issue? I bought this bike used 2 years ago and I'm pretty sure these are the original bearings. Half of the needles were rusted together and I couldn't even spin the collars by hand, they were frozen solid. Depending on the condition of the parts after I get these bearings out, I might end up having to order a new linkage connecting rod and relay arm.
  12. The oil strainer on my WR250F is stripped. It won't thread itself out when loosening. I need to get it out and figure out what is stripped, the strainer threads, the frame threads, or both. Has anyone else experienced this or know what it is going take to fix? Thanks, BS
  13. Appologies for the book but bare with me here, in need of some input... Ok, so i bought a wr250f it wasnt street legal i made it legal and got plated through south dakota. I did a baja designs enduro lighting harness kit with the stator modification. Put an fmf slip on exhaust on it and jetted the carb. I forget what jets i used and i put an air fuel mixture screw in it. Problem1.After my baja kit i put on it wouldnt start. Turned out that the solenoid under the seat was loose or something i pushed down on it when it was clicking and it started running again. Problem 2.Went riding, it ran great on the trails. Went riding for a day or 2 on the street, after a while the electric start stopped working and it became a bitch to kick over. It started making the same click noise like when the battery is dead under the seat. Idk whats up with that. Then on the street i was riding and the bike stopped having power in the throttle i would pin it full throttle and it wouldnt take off like it usuallt does. I pulled over, let it sit for 5min and kicked it over again and the power i had came back in the throttle. It did that 2 more times durring the ride and i went home. Do you think this is a computer issue, a carb issue, fuel air ratio issue. Im going to do an airbox mod on it thiss weekend maybe thatll help. Problem3. I ordered some rims and stuff from warp9 so i can sumo it out and i was curious on what size sprocket would make my gears longer and better so im not maxing my rpms out at 40mph. I can do a solid 65mph on the bike but thats like pushing it and im in 5th gear as soon as i hit like 30mph, id love 6gears but im trying to avoid regearing the bike and using a smaller sprocket in the rear and maybe a tooth or 2 bigger in the front i guess, i still wanna be able to pull wheelies. I feel like im gonna blow the motor if i leave it alone and just ride street with it. Mind you this was the wr250f=for off road use only. not the wr250r=street legal from factory, i live in nj. I should have just got the street legal one or a supermoto already done but i wanted to build one and make it custom for me. I already put alot of money in to it and dont even own it 100% yet so im not trying to get rid of it anytime soon. Im not even done with it yet.
  14. Hello. WR250F 2003, when I press, it plays (backlash) about 1/16″ (1-2 mm). It's ok? Sorry for my bad English. Video (enable sound):
  15. I just recently re-installed my White Bros exhaust system on my 2001 Wr250f. It's a two piece (header and muffler). I installed the header, then slipped on the muffler. The muffler fit very loose around the header where they meet. I tried angling the header and muffler at all different angles, yet still very loose. So I went ahead and used some high temp gasket maker, which failed the first ride. Am I missing a gasket or spacer of some sort? If I push the muffler into the header and extra 1/4 inch it fits air tight, but then I cannot bolt the muffler into the mounting brackets. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  16. Hey all! I have a 2002 WR250f that i am converting to be street legal and i am struggling to get the high low beam set up proper. I bought a tusk enduro lighting kit that has a high low beam switch but i cant seem to get it figured out. The bike has three wires coming out of the bike one was black one was blue and one is yellow. Using my volt meter i cant figure out which is the ground. Does anyone know which wire is the power wire? And which of the other two are needed? The light has three connections one for power and one for high and one for low. The enduro switch has three wires coming out of it one is black one is blue and one is white. Does anyone what the trick to this could be? Thanks a million!
  17. I just finished rebuilding the top end on my 2001 wr250f. The bike has an Athena 290 big bore cylinder and piston. I never checked the valve clearance before the rebuild. After rebuilding, I checked the valve clearances. All three intake valves have zero clearance. I cannot get my .03mm gauge to slide in. The exhaust valves are only slightly on the tight side with .015mm each. I double checked and made sure I wasn't on the exhaust stroke. I have zero clearance on all valves on the exhaust stroke. I even tried turned the flywheel back and forth from TDC and measuring to see if my timing was off, causing the zero clearance. These test also had zero clearance on the intake valves. Have all three of my intake valves worn down to the point where there is no clearance? When I had the head off, the bottom of the valves looked decent. Slightly blackened, with a small amount of carbon, but I didnt notice any major wear, chips or cracks. Anyone got any idea what's going on here? Thanks in advance for your guys' wisdom.
  18. Hi, So try and stick with me here its a bit of a tricky one (for me) ill try to be brief. my bike is an 07 wr250f. I've been going through the forum to help fault find but i've come to a crossroad. Went for a decent ride the other day, pulled up and my battery was dead flat when i went to take off again. got home and charged it back up and started the bike again to check volts and it was sitting at 12V but when i revved it the volts dropped to around 10.5V. So after a bit of fault finding I've replaced the reg/rec and battery trying to eliminate the problem and i'm still having the same issue. i checked the charging coil resistance and it was in spec, i checked the AC voltage coming from the white and the yellow wires from the stator and they seem ok (was around 15-20VAC at idle and rose to 50-60VAC when i revved it). I have noticed the guy i bought the bike off has re-wired all the lighting to a new harness coming straight off the battery which after doing some research figured the charging supply was being overrun hence the voltage drop when i revved it but even when i disconnected the harness (so no load on the battery) to check supply at idle the volts would slowly creep up to around 13.2V but again when i revved it the volts dropped not as bad but still went down. I even connected an LED to the old AC headlight plug because i heard it doesn't like to be open circuit and on that plug i would get around 12V AC at idle and would drop to 5V when i revved. As far as i know there hasn't been any other mods done eg stator or anything. so pretty much i'm thinking to just bite the bullet and purchase the trail tech 100W DC kit (as everything is now running off the battery) but what i'm after before i spend even more money on this thing is if anyone had a similar problem or if there is anything that i could be missing as i'm in oz so i wont be able to get the DC kit here any time soon. Thanks for battling through that and any help is appreciated. Cheers!
  19. What kind of differences are there in a 2016 WR250F vs a 2018 WR250F? My local dealer has one of both (both brand new) and the 16 is significantly cheaper ($3000 less). He even offered to throw in a competition ECU kit. Will I miss out on much by going with the 2016?
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