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Found 44 results

  1. Hi folks, I searched but did not find information specific to my question: I would like to install YZ forks on my 2006 WR250F and would like to know what years and models of forks would bolt into the stock triple clamps. From what I have learned, I think it would be the 06-07 YZ250F, but will the YZ450F forks fit as well, and if so, what years? I had my stock suspension set up for my weight and riding style in 2012, with no aftermarket valving, and am really tired of the bike's tendency to wash out in sand or soft soil, swap ends in mud, skitter the front end sideways on gravely hardpack roads to the point that I have to slow down to first gear to keep the bike from going off the road, etcetera. Ironically, I can easily bottom the forks on jumps despite the initial fork stroke harshness. I ride desert and mountains, so these aren't tabletop jumps I am talking about;-) I rode an 07 WR450F and the difference between the front end behavior was night and day: the front end would not wash out and I didn't feel every tiny rock with corresponding sideways bouncing. The tire was planted in the turns and it required much less energy to ride long distance and eliminated the transfer of energy into my hands from every tiny bump. I have the bike sag set and the springs tuned to my weight front and rear, and run12-15 # in the tires. I know I can modify the WR forks further, but for the cash and the age of the bike I thought that putting a set of rebuilt and tuned YZ forks/shock might be a great way to go. Any information regarding which years and models forks will bolt in is appreciated! Thanks, James
  2. Ron Denham

    converting wr250f

    anyone who has converted a 250 dirtbike to supermoto knows the stock gearing with sprockets and everything sucks for road use, this being my first conversion i had no idea until i actually took it on a street ride on the dirt tires and stock gearing... i havent yet gotten my smaller sprocket but how much will going from the stock 50tooth sprocket to a 43tooth sprocket help for street riding so im not rev limiting the shit out of my bike at 50mph. also debating on going a tooth or 2 bigger on the front... im already stuck with the wr250f model not the wr250r model and ordered rims and everything for it and put mad money into it so anything to help and words of wisdom would be appreciated.
  3. Hello, can someone help me with the part number for a speedometer, I was searching for one and I could not find this OEM speedometer. The bike was bought from Italy , it is a yamaha 2005 wr250f, I will attach a photo with one from another bike. If needed I will provide also the VIN number. Many thanks.
  4. Hey TT! I am normally on the Two Stroke fourm, but now I've decided to get a Street Legal WR250R... Here's everything I want for it: 2010 Yamaha WR250R (E-Start): $4,500.00 Registration and Fees: $440.00 Twin Air Air Filter: $30.00 Pirelli Scorpion Rally Tire Combo: $210.00 FMF Megabomb Header: $275.00 FMF Q4 Muffler: $380.00 GYTR 14T Front Sprocket: $27.00 Renthal 48T Rear Sprocket: $70.00 Renthal RC High Handlebars: $80.00 Yoshimura Fender Eliminator: $152.00 SoloRacer Low-Profile Mirrors: $57.00 Custom Graphics: $118.00 Black Ribbed Seat Cover: $56.00 That's about all I can think of, is there anything that I'm missing? Also is the 2010 an E-Start? I need that.
  5. Hello from Guam! New to this forum, but not new to forums. Anyway, this is my first motorcycle and I'm looking forward to getting to know it. Been reading the manual religiously the past few days. So much to learn and I've got a ton of reading ahead.
  6. WR250F 2001 I had coolant leaking from water pump weep hole so replaced w/pump seal and no more leak. However after refilling coolant and burping air out of system I notice there is now bubbling in the radiator that increases when revs increase. It would seem to point to head gasket but before I pull the head off I'm wondering if there is anything it could be apart from blown head gasket? Thanks
  7. Saggyoldman7

    WR250f Headlight

    Hey all! I have a 2002 WR250f that i am converting to be street legal and i am struggling to get the high low beam set up proper. I bought a tusk enduro lighting kit that has a high low beam switch but i cant seem to get it figured out. The bike has three wires coming out of the bike one was black one was blue and one is yellow. Using my volt meter i cant figure out which is the ground. Does anyone know which wire is the power wire? And which of the other two are needed? The light has three connections one for power and one for high and one for low. The enduro switch has three wires coming out of it one is black one is blue and one is white. Does anyone what the trick to this could be? Thanks a million!
  8. WR2FIFTY

    WR250f splutters.

    i have recently picked myself up a wr250f 2004 and seems to have an electrical problem. rode fine when i got it after about 30 mins into the ride it seem to splutter in the lower rev range or when engine was loaded up seem to clear up in high revs (not much engine load). after a few more minutes bike started to be impossible to ride back firing and just bogging right down till it stalls. done the normal checks cleaned carb, new fuel, checked spark, checked air filter ect. at this point it would idle quite rough and noticed would stall when high beams are on (lights are on when bike is running all the time). checked voltage from battery it was sitting at 7.5v and when bike is running drops to 6.4v. I jumped it using a car battery and idled perfectly and revved just fine. i charged the battery up and managed to bring it back to 12.6v. tested voltage again and seem to not be charging at idle revved it up to about 3000rpm and nothing happened straight away then seem to jump up to 13.1v so i assumed the charging system was okay and it was just a flat battery causing my issue. went for a ride approx 6kms or so and ran good. votage stayed at 12.6v with bike off. next day took it out for a slightly longer ride and started to splutter again. turned around and got half way home until bike was once again unridable. voltaged seem to be at 12.5v. i am pretty comfortable working on cars but very knew to bikes. so my thoughts is that bike is some how not giving the ignition system enough power to run correctly. cutting spark in and out causing it to bog and back fire? my understanding is that the stator generates ac power to power the lights and ignition system and charge battery (once converted to dc). if the stator is at fault would my lights not cut in and out also? sorry for the long post just trying to get some insight from people with more experience or maybe someone has had this problem before. done a little bit of research but couldnt fine to much.
  9. Hey all, I just bought a street legal 2005 WR250F. Took it out once three weeks ago. Did about 60 miles on the dirt and 15 on the road, bike ran great. I took it out this past Sunday and was about 75 miles into my ride when the battery died. The battery is cheap, but it is brand new and was on a battery maintainer the whole time while it sat in the garage. I kick started it, and it fired right up. I was on the road for about 5-10 miles in fifth gear when I felt the bike slow down a little bit, and I noticed the sound coming from the bike sounded a bit deeper than usual. About a half mile later the bike started to bog down like it was out of gas. I filled the tank back up and experienced the same problem. The bike began to bog down, then puttered out like it was out of gas. Eventually the battery completely died and I was not even able to kick start it. I trailored it home, hooked it up to the maintainer, waited a couple hours, and the bike fired right up with the electric starter and the choke out. However, it was still puttering a lot when it was idling at this time. If anyone knows whats up, I would appreciate any and all help. Thank you. #Yamaha#wr250f
  10. first off start off by saying this is my first time rebuilding engine so bear with me. but ill start with what happen. was just riding down the road 57ish mph. and started losing power. down shifted to 4th lost more power downed to 3rd. wheels tried to lock up. got it in neutral. gave it few mins to cool down a second. hit start button and just sounded like battery was dead just really loud clicking noise. checked temp, gas, etc. then tried to kick start it and wouldn't move at all, so knew it was bad. got it home. put some oil down spark plug got kick start to move and it to start for a min maybe. but sounded very rough. drained oil good amount of metal in it and in oil filter area when whipped finger in side. fast forward pulled whole engine from bike. got the top end off. waiting on some tools to start bottom. but no bad marking on sleeve just one really big gouge. but stuck as of now and kinda scared to go further but trying to save money and learn so doing it myself I guess. just wondering on what rebuild kits I should buy. and would like to put big bore kit on it. just looking for any advice or opinions on what I should do. like replacing any thing else inside to newer year or upgraded to make better. and guess down road would need info on carb and all that but far away. took few pictures if that would help and can take more. thanks in advance. hope that made sense
  11. 1970 Jawa CZ 250 and 1974 Yamaha yz250, were some of my favorite bikes I rode for years... A long time ago. I'm looking to get back into it, in a much slower pace of coarse ! I think 2 stroke might be my choice... but I open to some good advice. The 2 stoke yz250 and the yz250x , not much difference ? What about the 3 other 4 strokes ? yz250f, yz250fx and thewr250f ?? No track, no competition and so on, just good old fun cause I'm just too old ! Thanks guys !!
  12. Kaito Sutton

    2018 wr250f headlight

    hey guys, so recently I've seen tons of pictures of the new 2018 wr 250f, and the headlight looks brilliant! the thing that turns me away from a 2015 up wr is that damn headlight and how bad it looks, so i was wondering if i could buy one of those headlights aftermarket and fit it to a 2015 wr. Or will it take time for them to be released. if i can't get one, whats the closest option? thanks very much
  13. Hi everyone, I am a 5'5 150lb 16 year old. I have ridden 4 wheelers all my life and just recently sold my 400ex and am looking to get into dirt bike riding as thats what most of my friends ride. I cannot decide a good bike to get as a beginner because of my height. Two of friends have WR250f and two of them have CRF150R. We ride mostly trails and some Motocross. I like the size of the 150r's as I can easily touch, but do not want the high strung high maintenance motor. The problem with the WR is I can hardly touch the ground which scares me everytime I go to stop. I would like a CRF250X, but do not know if it will be too much to start on or if it will be too tall, I am not afraid to buy lowering links, shave seat foam, and slide forks up until i get more comfortable on the bike. I have considered 230's but think i want better suspension for hitting jumps. Any input is greatly appreciated, thanks.
  14. I just finished rebuilding the top end on my 2001 wr250f. The bike has an Athena 290 big bore cylinder and piston. I never checked the valve clearance before the rebuild. After rebuilding, I checked the valve clearances. All three intake valves have zero clearance. I cannot get my .03mm gauge to slide in. The exhaust valves are only slightly on the tight side with .015mm each. I double checked and made sure I wasn't on the exhaust stroke. I have zero clearance on all valves on the exhaust stroke. I even tried turned the flywheel back and forth from TDC and measuring to see if my timing was off, causing the zero clearance. These test also had zero clearance on the intake valves. Have all three of my intake valves worn down to the point where there is no clearance? When I had the head off, the bottom of the valves looked decent. Slightly blackened, with a small amount of carbon, but I didnt notice any major wear, chips or cracks. Anyone got any idea what's going on here? Thanks in advance for your guys' wisdom.
  15. What kind of differences are there in a 2016 WR250F vs a 2018 WR250F? My local dealer has one of both (both brand new) and the 16 is significantly cheaper ($3000 less). He even offered to throw in a competition ECU kit. Will I miss out on much by going with the 2016?
  16. Paranoia

    Crankshaft side play

    Hello. WR250F 2003, when I press, it plays (backlash) about 1/16″ (1-2 mm). It's ok? Sorry for my bad English. Video (enable sound):
  17. Hi guys - first post here so I hope this is the right place. I accidentally broke the shelf inside the bottom of the engine that the forward cam chain guide sits right above. The guide is supported by a notch in the head so it doesn't actually rest on the part I broke. Think I can ride it as is? Is there a simple fix that doesn't require a new bottom case? Here's some nice before and afters of my handy work.
  18. Hi, So try and stick with me here its a bit of a tricky one (for me) ill try to be brief. my bike is an 07 wr250f. I've been going through the forum to help fault find but i've come to a crossroad. Went for a decent ride the other day, pulled up and my battery was dead flat when i went to take off again. got home and charged it back up and started the bike again to check volts and it was sitting at 12V but when i revved it the volts dropped to around 10.5V. So after a bit of fault finding I've replaced the reg/rec and battery trying to eliminate the problem and i'm still having the same issue. i checked the charging coil resistance and it was in spec, i checked the AC voltage coming from the white and the yellow wires from the stator and they seem ok (was around 15-20VAC at idle and rose to 50-60VAC when i revved it). I have noticed the guy i bought the bike off has re-wired all the lighting to a new harness coming straight off the battery which after doing some research figured the charging supply was being overrun hence the voltage drop when i revved it but even when i disconnected the harness (so no load on the battery) to check supply at idle the volts would slowly creep up to around 13.2V but again when i revved it the volts dropped not as bad but still went down. I even connected an LED to the old AC headlight plug because i heard it doesn't like to be open circuit and on that plug i would get around 12V AC at idle and would drop to 5V when i revved. As far as i know there hasn't been any other mods done eg stator or anything. so pretty much i'm thinking to just bite the bullet and purchase the trail tech 100W DC kit (as everything is now running off the battery) but what i'm after before i spend even more money on this thing is if anyone had a similar problem or if there is anything that i could be missing as i'm in oz so i wont be able to get the DC kit here any time soon. Thanks for battling through that and any help is appreciated. Cheers!
  19. Saggyoldman7

    WR250f Headlight

    Hey all! I have a 2002 WR250f that i am converting to be street legal and i am struggling to get the high low beam set up proper. I bought a tusk enduro lighting kit that has a high low beam switch but i cant seem to get it figured out. The bike has three wires coming out of the bike one was black one was blue and one is yellow. Using my volt meter i cant figure out which is the ground. Does anyone know which wire is the power wire? And which of the other two are needed? The light has three connections one for power and one for high and one for low. The enduro switch has three wires coming out of it one is black one is blue and one is white. Does anyone what the trick to this could be? Thanks a million!
  20. I just recently re-installed my White Bros exhaust system on my 2001 Wr250f. It's a two piece (header and muffler). I installed the header, then slipped on the muffler. The muffler fit very loose around the header where they meet. I tried angling the header and muffler at all different angles, yet still very loose. So I went ahead and used some high temp gasket maker, which failed the first ride. Am I missing a gasket or spacer of some sort? If I push the muffler into the header and extra 1/4 inch it fits air tight, but then I cannot bolt the muffler into the mounting brackets. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  21. Put a deposit hold, under 7K OTD could not pass up. Picked up an 18 YZ250F for 77 OTD for my sons new track bike. So, I am a big 4 stroke rider, and as my name says, one of the 2 stroke knowledgeable guys over in the smoking forum. I am going to pick this bike up from the dealer later this month. Was going to get a 14-15 WR450F, but hell, I have a 08 TE450 Husqvarna, and a 2012 Beta 520RS so I don't need another big 4 stroke. Smoker is an 04 YZ250WR trans, Rekluse tractor. So, I want to make this bike a good little mountain trail bike and not be exhausted at the end of the day like the Husky/Beta does to me. After the break in, I want to add a few things to personalize. Your thoughts on pipes, complete or slip on, "USFS approved" silencer as it will be a DS 80Dirt/20Tarmac in AZ. Any other things to look for, Tuner for mapping, GYTR CDI, Rekluse, etc. Thanks, YZDOC
  22. The oil strainer on my WR250F is stripped. It won't thread itself out when loosening. I need to get it out and figure out what is stripped, the strainer threads, the frame threads, or both. Has anyone else experienced this or know what it is going take to fix? Thanks, BS
  23. Hi All, I am looking for a bike to start trail riding - no dirt biking experience up to this point. I found this offer today on the local classifieds: https://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/45131997 What do you guys think? Is this a good offer? I'm looking for a cheap, older bike I can learn on. Looking to do trail riding in the woods / mountains of Utah. If it's not a good offer, what would be a good price to offer for the bike? Also, how do we feel about a 2002? Is that too old? Will it have maintenance issues? Thanks
  24. Ron Denham

    2013 Wr250f sm conversion. Help...

    Appologies for the book but bare with me here, in need of some input... Ok, so i bought a wr250f it wasnt street legal i made it legal and got plated through south dakota. I did a baja designs enduro lighting harness kit with the stator modification. Put an fmf slip on exhaust on it and jetted the carb. I forget what jets i used and i put an air fuel mixture screw in it. Problem1.After my baja kit i put on it wouldnt start. Turned out that the solenoid under the seat was loose or something i pushed down on it when it was clicking and it started running again. Problem 2.Went riding, it ran great on the trails. Went riding for a day or 2 on the street, after a while the electric start stopped working and it became a bitch to kick over. It started making the same click noise like when the battery is dead under the seat. Idk whats up with that. Then on the street i was riding and the bike stopped having power in the throttle i would pin it full throttle and it wouldnt take off like it usuallt does. I pulled over, let it sit for 5min and kicked it over again and the power i had came back in the throttle. It did that 2 more times durring the ride and i went home. Do you think this is a computer issue, a carb issue, fuel air ratio issue. Im going to do an airbox mod on it thiss weekend maybe thatll help. Problem3. I ordered some rims and stuff from warp9 so i can sumo it out and i was curious on what size sprocket would make my gears longer and better so im not maxing my rpms out at 40mph. I can do a solid 65mph on the bike but thats like pushing it and im in 5th gear as soon as i hit like 30mph, id love 6gears but im trying to avoid regearing the bike and using a smaller sprocket in the rear and maybe a tooth or 2 bigger in the front i guess, i still wanna be able to pull wheelies. I feel like im gonna blow the motor if i leave it alone and just ride street with it. Mind you this was the wr250f=for off road use only. not the wr250r=street legal from factory, i live in nj. I should have just got the street legal one or a supermoto already done but i wanted to build one and make it custom for me. I already put alot of money in to it and dont even own it 100% yet so im not trying to get rid of it anytime soon. Im not even done with it yet.
  25. Hi all, looking to do the grey wire mod on my wr250f but have questions on what to use for the switch and what type/guage of wire to use to install said switch. Basically, I'm either looking to put the switch up on the handlebars somewhere, or potentially in the air box. I want something relatively accessible as I often rotate the type of riding I'm doing. I guess if anyone has any links to sample products that works, or even a little bit more technical detail on what I'd need for the switch and wire, that would be great. Thanks!
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