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Showing results for tags 'wr450'.
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I need to do the forks on: 2012 WR450F 2007 YZ250 Is there a trick to getting the compression damper piece out without that special fork cap tool? Heres what im talking about: 2012 WR450F 2007 YZ250 I rebuilt a pair of AOS forks with no special tools but I think the compression body came out with a 17mm socket. It was off a 2008 KLX450, I'm PRETTY sure top looked like this: Maybe someone can verify that 2008 KLX450R forks have that style of top cap. I cant remember and the bike is not in my possession atm. I dont like buying model specific tools so if there is a trick to getting those compression caps off let me know! -
Hey guys, new to the forum ! so HELLO all Recently picked up a 2003 WR450, been SM coveted and love everything about me bike Only down side is i hate the rear tail light on the 03-06 models, much rather have the newer plastics, with the under tail headlight. I've been researching around and haven't found exactly the answers i need. I understand the rear sub frames are a bit different which means mounting holes are different. I found the UFO fenders are pretty much replicas which means they wont screw on. But i was curious as to whether or not the UFO plastics (with the integrated tail light) comes with wiring for it to work as a brake light as well. If any one has been able to put new plastic 07+ models onto older models 03-06 please guide me on your ways Photo of me bike and the rear tail piece im talking about
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Just picked up a 2012 WR450F with a claimed 3,800km. It looks like its been put through its paces and like the owner enjoyed crashing into lots of shit What are some of the common mods for this year? Grey wire mod? AIS/Smog removal? EFI mapping? Here are the issues: Electric start doesn't start the bike. It turns over but rarely starts. I end up having to use the kick. I've ridden a 2011 that never had this problem (Still carbureted). I'm going to check the valves but not sure what else to do. The EFI choke doesnt help E-start, hot or cold. The "check engine" light came on during the first ride. I stopped riding for a bit, started back up and it was off. But I didnt ride anymore after that. I called the previous owner but he claimed it never happened to him. Again, I'm going to check the valves. Also it runs very hot. Maybe a temperature issue. I will do a flush and run engine ice. See if the light comes back on. Hoping to not have to take it to a Yamaha dealer to see what codes its giving but will probably have to? I dont own a tuner. So far those are the only issues that alarm me. I will probably get a compression tester and do a test just for kicks. So if anyone is familiar with this EFI, 5 valve head style Yamaha, let me know what to look out for, what to do, how to make it run better etc. Right now its not running as nice a a 2011 with a full FMF system and quickshot accelerator pump mod. But I'm holding off on getting a slip on as I'm not sure I even want to keep the thing now. Any advice welcomed, thanks!
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I have a friend that I'm trying to help get his bike started. He bought it not realizing the entire harness had been gutted down to new CDI, stop switch, headlight, new stator, rectifier, TPS, primary coil. Everything checks out as far as testing per the service manual, but there's no spark. I've been thru harness and checked all connectors and all wires. It was running now we're stumped!
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Hey everyone, I just installed the GYTR FMF slip on exhaust today and got a few different problems. First thing I noticed was after turning the bike off, the exhaust started smoking out the back. Not a whole lot, but a noticeable amount of white smoke. When installing the exhaust I replaced the header gasket, and I also but Ultra Black Sealant on the slip on part of the exhaust. I'm assuming I used the wrong type of gasket sealant and that's what burning and creating smoke? It doesn't smell like burning oil or coolant, kinda smells like burning plastic if I had to describe it. Not very worried about this though, I guess i'll just let it all burn off or if it doesn't stop smoking, I will take it back off and try to clean it and use the right stuff. My big problem is the amount of backfiring; It only happens on deceleration. I did a quick check for exhaust leaks right after installing and didn't find any. I will do a more thorough check tomorrow. The exhaust that was on it before was a super heavy Lexx exhaust that was really quiet and probably very restrictive. Also the current map set is for super smooth and slow acceleration, all 0's and -'s (See picture below of the map). I'm assuming this smooth of a map is where my backfiring problem is? This is making me run lean correct? How safe is it to run the bike like this? Because I need to ride the bike tomorrow and my tuner won't come in until later in the week. Picture of my current map (middle one) & video of crazy backfiring:
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I've posted here before looking for wr450 engine. I haven't found one yet for a reasonable price so I thought I'd try again. I'm looking for just the engine but a whole bike would be great also. Let me know what everyone has.
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I have an 09 WR450F and I want to get the suspension done. I ride mostly in Colorado and Utah including single track, open desert, sand, rock, woods, etc. I’m 50+ and 200lbs. Formerly mid pack B rider but slowing down. Looking for some initial plushness for the rocks/roots but firmer for the whoops, sand, etc. Anyone have experience and can recommend a Colorado suspension company?
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So I am looking at buying a WR250 or WR450 soon. I have been riding road bikes my whole life and currently own a nice little R1 but I realise dirt bikes are a whole new world of riding so I am looking for advice really on what bike I should get. Not really ridden dirty bikes for a good 15 years and I am not a particularly big person so my question is, what bike? the 450 or the 250? Kinda have my heart set on the 450 but people warn me off saying its "too powerful" and it is a "beast" etc. Any opinions would be great because basically I am "noob" to the whole dirt bike scene. Also to add; I am only going to be using it on roads and green lanes etc. Never going to use it on a track Cheers 👍
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I’ve narrowed my search for a woods bike down to these three bikes. I have about $4,000 to spend, which one of these bikes will last me the longest? Things to note, I’m mechanically retarded, outside of oil changes, spark plugs, air/oil filter… I’m &%$#@!ed or will be going to the dealership. I’m tall, 6’3 (200lbs) so a higher seat height is desired. I live in Colorado Springs and will be primarily riding Rampart Range. Which of these three bikes will I have the best experience with? Bikes I can afford seem to be in the 2000-2010 era.
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Hi Everyone, In a last ditch effort I'd want to see if any of you can help me out. I have a 07 uncorked WR450 that starts easy. But after it's been run around the block a few times and is good and warm, it sputters and dies at idle which is around 2000-2100 right now. I have to keep revving the throttle to keep it alive when I come to a stop. It has been to 2 different shops, had the valves adjusted, they pulled the top half of the motor and inspected, pulled and cleaned the carb, and it still has the same issue! I've lost faith in the shops to fix it and haven't found any solution online that has worked so far, so I was hoping someone could help me out. I have a 168 main and a 45 pilot. I run at sea level in moderate temps. So far I've: Verified fuel flow from the tank to the carb Pulled and inspected/cleaned the carb and jets Made sure the battery was charged Checked valve clearances (shop done) Pulled the top half and inspected (shop done) Inspected and adjusted fuel mix screw Replaced hot start cap with an aluminum one in case of leaking Inspected for air leaks If anyone can point me in the right direction I'd be super excited on getting this thing running reliably! Thanks.
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Will my 04 YZ450F exhaust fit and work on my brothers 05 WR450F? He is afraid of a little noise and wants my stock pipe. Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
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I found a bunch of twigs and crap in a vent hose going from what I think is the starter motor to a big T that connects to the top end vent as well as the air box. Im guessing the guy submerged the bike enough that a bunch of crap got in through the air box but maybe somebody with more experience can help me out. Is that spot in the engine that the hose is going into pushing out or sucking in? And why exactly are there two vents from the engine? Ive only seen a crank case breather hose from the air box to the crank case with a T in the middle but I could be wrong. Heres a pic: Im guessing finding a bunch of twigs and grime just on the inside of that hose is a bad thing
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Hello everybody, I screwed up something when remounting the rear wheel and rear brake on my wr450. Somehow the plate that rests on the caliper broke. It's the little clip that make sure the pads slide a bit. The pads rest on that clip. Looks alot like this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/99-YAMAHA-YZ125-MISC-REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-BRACKET-CLIP-PLATE/182593367675?hash=item2a8369ae7b:g:PL0AAOSwR29ZKE~V I thought i'd be able to order one, but the dealer said I had to order an entire new brake caliper. No way I'll do that for a simple little plate. Does anybody have any idea where to get one of these plates? thank, AVC
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hey always here reading but this is my first post, i have a yz450 2009 model. clutch lever works fine cable isnt ripped or anything however when i pull it in the clutch is still disengaged, i opened the cover and found that only one plate was moving so i removed the basket and lightly filed down the groves put it back together and all the plates seemed to be moving together. Pulled the clutch in and moved the back wheel and it felt like it was dragging.started the bike up next day put it into first gear and it jerked. Took the cover back off and pulled the clutch in and not all the clutch plates are moving again. what could the issue be? the clutch and friction plates aren't worn, nothings broken. i can upload pictures or videos if needed. TIA
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Hello people! So this is the first time I've ever posted in a forum, I hope this is the right place. :) I have a 2005 WR450f which has been converted to a motard. The bike runs great except for when the throttle is wide open, this happens in every gear though, so whenever you hit higher RPMs. Now, I have replaced the emulsion tube along with the main jet, brand new original parts all from Yamaha. The rest of the throttle is extremely smooth and and rides like a dream. I have also ofcourse replaced the air filter and I have sent the bike in to have the carb adjusted and set correctly by the guys that actually know what they doing. The guy at the shop mentions that he thinks its the CDI that cuts out at high RPMs. The bogging feels like the engine isn't getting enough fuel at high RPMs and the bike basically just doesn't pull at all and sort of "chugs", blipping a little bit of throttle here and there. What are your guys thoughts? Anyone have a similar issue that you were able to resolve? Cause we all know that little electrical box ain't cheap! Thanks!
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I may be fixing to pick up a pretty decent 07 wr 450 and am wondering how I can update the styling of it to the newere model. looks like 2012 was the last of the old model fram and a little bit of new look was on it so is my best bet just to order a kit for a 12 or is there a way to make it look even newer? thanks
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Need some advice on rebuilding the wr450f transmission after the 5th gear issue showed itself. Just a little background so you guys know whats going on. Its a 2006 wr450f that has (I'm guessing) 6-10k miles. The majority of which have been street and supermoto miles. I was doing a track day at Musselman Honda Circuit in Tucson AZ and began to feel 5th gear slip especially under hard acceleration. Immediately after the track day I googled the issue and came upon the 5th ear issue of these bikes. Ive since barely used 5th gear and now have the time to tear it apart and see how bad it is. That gets us to where I am now. I split the cases and pulled out the gears only to find significantly less damage than I was expecting The only very noticeable thing wrong with the whole transmission was the shifter fork (#2 I believe) I was expecting the dogs of the pinion to be trashed but they are only very very slightly rounded To give you an idea of how shallow the marking is on this gear, I have trouble feeling it with my finger nail. Anyways what do you guys suggest I replace and what can I do to stop this from happening? BTW thank you guys for doing all you do! I've gained so much knowledge about my bike from this site and I hope this post can help someone down the road.
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Hey guys, I just joined but I have used this site for many different occasions. But know I have finally ran into an issue that I cant solve with the search feature. I have a 2009 wr450 that I just purchased a month ago with some issues. First ill tell you the list of mods done to it. yz cams r and d powerbowl TPS diconnect Grey wire cut JD jet kit. but i cant tell the needle color and i forgot the clip position. has the up graded AP spring 06yz450 header with a lexx exhaust with the baffle installed. I am having an issue getting the fuel screw dialed in. The only time i can get the bike to change rpm with the fuel screw is with the #42 pilot jet installed. but when i do as I have been instructed (IE adjust the screw in till it stumbles then back out till the best idle has been achieved) The bike seems like it is really lean. I say this because my header temp gets up to 700° and i start developing a nasty engine knock. This does not happen when i go up a size. I have tried #42, #45, and #48 pilot jets. Has anyone ever dealt with this issue before? If so what did you find out? Thanks for the read!
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Hi, I am trying to replace the counter balancer shaft in my 2011 wr 450. Everything has been fine until I got to splitting the crankcase. The manual says that I should remove the right CC half (as I understand this is the one with clutch) first and transmission and crankshaft should stay in the left half. Well, the opposite happened in my case 🙂 I did remove the right CC half but the transmission and the crankshaft stayed in and I lifted them up with it. It looks like the crankshaft is stuck in the right CC half - I tried to pull it out with my hands but It doesn't want to move (for now I avoided using a mallet - will it damage the bearing?). This worries me a little cause the manual says that it should practically slide out without any problems and in the current situation I cannot remove the counter balancer shaft cause the crankshaft is in its way. If anyone could help me with the following doubts that would be great 🙂 1. How can I remove the crankshaft from the right CC half without damaging the bearing? Is it possible at all in my case? 2. Is it normal that the crankshaft is stuck in the right CC half and slides out the other side easily? Or does it mean that something is wrong? Manual says that I have to use a special tool to put the crankshaft in the left CC half but in my case it goes in without any problems. It is not loose and there is no free play, though. Just goes in without too much force. 3. Once I am done. How do I install the crankshaft in the right CC half when it doesn't go in easily? I will appreciate any help here. Thanks a lot!
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Hi TT, Has anyone had experience with the bigger CC kits before? Im installing a Athena 480CC big bore kit on my WR450 and im wondering if a jetting upgrade is required or if i can just tweak the air/fuel mixture? Any help is appreciated. Thanks Ben
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I have a 2005 WR450 with need of tlc in the gear dept. Does anyone know if any other year WR has the same shifter forks and indeed if any YZ shifter forks will work. I have seen some 06 YZ shifter forks, which look just like the 05 WR ones, except they have a different part no. and different numbers cast on them, The WR has 5BE4, and the same looking YZ has 5BE5. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Cheers
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I just got a 2003 WR450 and the starter wasn't working so after learning how to kick this bike I could start it in one kick. (find tdc, easy piston past, full kick and it would fire.) After installing the new one it does start the bike as it should when cold. Meaning if the motor hasn't been run I can pull the choke and push the button and it fires right up. (quick) Once I take the bike off choke and ride it for awhile if I turn it off it doesn't want to start easy again. I've tested pulling the hotstart while running to lean it out and then kill it. This seems to help an instant off and back on for say less than 30 seconds. If the bike sits it doesn't want to start again and I have to pull the choke for a second and then push in and pull the hot start to clear the rich condition that I just created and then it will start. I've tried a slight pump from the accelerator and then the hot start and while that does work I haven't perfected that for an easy start. When the bad starter was in it was dragging abit and it was easier to find to roll slightly past TDC. Now once past TDC engine rolls past too far to get a good kick. Temperature high 80's to low 90's Elevation 850-1250 Main Jet 165 Slow Jet 50 Starter 65 Fuel Screw 1.25 Leak jet cant get out so I don't know the number. Gray wire mod - Tested with and without. TPS still hooked up Side note the intake valves are now down to .004 and that's on the tight side and I will be adjusting them this week. I know that this could have something to do with hot starts as valves might be cracked slightly and the over rich and then back to lean with the hot start helps it start.
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Hi TT.. Does anyone have in the possession a 2003 Genuine OEM Yamaha WR450F Crankshaft assembly. Part No. (5TJ-11400-01-00) - Alternatively, would you know where I could source one ASAP. I am located in AUS. Thanks
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Hi TT... After some urgent assistance! Need to know if a 2004-2006 Hot rods complete crankshaft will fit in my 2003 WR450f....I have purchased the corresponding starter gear/flywheel etc but Serco and Yamaha reps cannot confirm...Who has done this!?!?!? Will it work!!?? PLEASE HELP ASAP! Thanks
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Hey everyone! Today I bought my first WR450F! It's a 2013 plated in California! Super stoked on the bike and already want to get into it and start customizing. Let me know if there is anything I need to know because this is all new to me, my past experience has been with DRZ's so this is completely different. The main questions I have about the bike is about the ecu, programming, and maps. I have never dealt with computers on bikes before so all of this seems like witchcraft to me. The previous owner did the ecu upgrade to what he says is a "programmable YZ ecu". He was an old guy that did very light trail riding and he said he got it tuned for that kind of riding. My plans for the bike is mostly street, i'm going to be purchasing supermoto wheels soon but I also want to do some off roading. I'd say i'm going to use the bike for 80% streets and 20% dirt. Do you guys think I should get the ecu reprogrammed? He gave me the stock ecu aswell, should I put that one back on? I'm used to a slow DRZ so to me its super fast. The bike has a slip on LEXX exhaust from what I can tell. Let me know any information you have about all the Yamaha computer stuff or refer me to any good sites that explain this stuff. Anything is greatly appreciated. I'll provide a picture of the bike and also the current map that is has on it so you can tell me if it's good or not.
