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  1. Hello folks, My wr just got a rear shock rebuild and everything seems fine till I take it for a ride and noticed the rubber on the rear shock moved up across the tube(the yellow part that in the image I attached) Is this something normal (to me it's not since I never got it before) and the guy who did the shock for me said it's normal So can you help me look at it to see if it's ok for the rubber part to move up like that? Thanks Dan
  2. I live in Iquitos, Peru where motorcycles and moto taxis (tuk tuks) are the primary form of transportation. We live a ways out of town 3 KM up a pretty rough dirt road. After riding a Honda CRF250L dual sport several years to get to town and occasionally riding trails I bought our son a CRF230F. After riding that on some trails I decided its time to get back into dirt biking. It was so much more fun than the CRF250L dual sport. I wanted a bigger bike as the frame on the 230 is pretty small and it does not have much power. I really wanted a WR250F, but, unfortunately, they are not sold in Peru. I definitely did not want a motocross bike, we only have Yamaha and Honda dealers where I live, so the WR450F was pretty much the only reasonable option. The weight concerned me as I am 57 years old and not in the best of condition, and I was also concerned it would have way more power than I could control. I rode a Huqvarna 125 when I was 16-20 and it was a blast. Very easy to flick around. After lots of reading I decided I could learn throttle control and only use what I needed. So I got a new 2015 WR450F and could barely ride the thing! The problem was the compression braking. Any decrease of throttle felt like I was going to go over the handle bars! Any small change of throttle seemed to have an extreme effect. I did start adapting to it, but it was very difficult to control at low speeds on tight or rugged trails. After some research, I bought a G2 Throttle Cam System and that made a HUGE difference in controlling the engine response. Finally, I was able to actually enjoy riding it! With the G2 Cam System I began riding a bit more aggressively and very quickly realized that while I was a fairly good trail rider when I was 18, the body does not remember things that well after 40 years. My technique sucked and with the weight of the bike and my so so conditioning I got worn out very quickly. I have to say I did find myself regretting my decision a bit, wishing I had something lighter. I started looking up articles about how to ride a dirt bike, how to turn, ride woops, where to put your feet, how to position your body, etc. While wishing I had a lighter bike, I also knew there just were not any real options where I live except a Yamaha or Honda 250F motocross bike and I did not want the gear ratio, power band, or suspension of one of those as most of my riding is on trails. What I decided to do was focus on my technique and learn to let the bike do most of the work. Where before I would try to go fast (for me) on trails, I backed it off about 30% and just focused on form and technique. Body position, throttle control, standing on the balls of my feet with my toes turned in so my legs naturally gripped the bike. I focused on being smooth, on flowing down trails and over bumps, accelerating smoothly out of turns and learning to keep the rear wheel hooked up and not sliding out. Initially it was kind of boring but I kind of made a game out of it. How can I get down this trail at reasonable velocity while using the minimum amount of energy and let the bike do most of the work? What I found after a couple of weeks of this is I was riding much faster than before, had much more control and did not get anywhere near as tired. I was also having a lot more fun! This is an incredibly stable machine and will easily soak up any kind of terrain I point it at. I am still trying to figure out how to consistently get over the bikes tendency to stand up in corners. All of this learning was on the stock, bottled up WR. I was definitely disappointed with the power once I got used to riding it, but was content for a while. I wanted to take out the throttle screw, but you cannot buy a Torx 25 security bit here, so I just rode it as is for a while. I just got around to buying the competition kit and put in the ECU today without making any other changes – stock exhaust and stock air intake, restricted throttle. My first ride with the default competition ECU settings. WOW!! What a difference! It is so much easier to pull the front end up and has more power and acceleration throughout the RPM range. Honestly, I think I would like riding it with those default settings. I did buy the power tuner and wanted to see what effect it really had. I loaded the muddy/slippery surface map and took it out for a spin. Seemed like a different motorcycle. Much better traction, but with a very bottled up feeling that was worse than the original ECU, but it did have a hard hit in the mid-range. I did not like riding with that map but can see how it would be useful in very slippery, tricky trails. I next loaded a motocross map that was intended for use with a YZ exhaust, the other extreme as I was looking to see what kind of difference the power tuner can make. Good God Almighty!! This bike is F@#K3ng FAST. I could not believe this was the same motorcycle. Without any other changes, just the competition ECU, this WR450F has more power than I will every really need. I will be taking it to the shop soon for a variety of maintenance and I will have them change the throttle screw. I am looking forward to see if that will give me a bit more power while at lower RPMs. It definitely has all I need in the mid to top end. I still think I would have been happier if I could have gotten a WR250F. From all I have read they have plenty of power, and I am only 160lbs. I do like my WR450F and have a lot of fun riding it, but there definitely are times where the weight is a factor. As long as my form is good it is not too much of an issue, but if I get off balance in a tricky slow section I really notice it. It also limits my confidence learning to jump things as I find it very difficult to change its attitude in the air. Do bear in mind I am 57 and not in the best of shape and finally accepting I will never ride a dirt bike like I did when I was 18. I really do not want to get hurt again (hit a tree, broke a collar bone and damaged my rotator cuff and did not get to ride for 6 months) as healing takes a long time at this age, so I do not push it too hard. One thing I do expect from this machine is a long life. I will hardly every be using all the power of the engine, mostly staying in the mid rpm range, so I hope the engine will last a long time with just the standard regular maintenance. My plan is to happily be riding this bike when I am 65!! Maybe by then there will be better options in Peru and the wife will let me get one. Dirt bikes are a great way to stay in shape and I see no reason can’t keep riding into my 70s. We will be getting our son a YZ250F soon as he does ride motocross tracks on his CRF230. I will get to ride that and see if I made the right choice not going for a motocross bike. I will probably keep the stock exhaust as I do like having a quiet bike and I have no need for more power. It is also very expensive to ship things to Peru, so I really can’t justify the expense of the FMF Q4 (over $600 by the time I paid shipping and customs) , though I would like to have it just because it sounds so much better🙂
  3. So, my 2015 Wr450f had a FMF Powercore 4. The bike ran flawlessly, never stalled out and had tons of power. But, the neighbors didn't like how loud it was so I switched back to the stock exhaust with the pea shooter in it. The problem is, it is having lots of trouble starting, and stalls whenever you open the throttle somewhat quickly. I have the competition ECU and tuner, and throttle stop removed. Any ideas on why it runs so poorly with the stock exhaust? Too rich? Too lean? Anybody have their WR running good on the stock exhaust?
  4. The last time I rode my 2012 wr450f I noticed a clunk every time the front wheel came off the ground over whoops or wheelies... Limped it home and ordered a fork wrench to open them up. I put 122hrs on the bike since I bought it in January. Today I took them apart and discovered that the nut on the damper rod came lose and got beat on a little. The threads look ok on the inner cartridge, but I need to run a tap through the rebound bolt cap. Do you think the little rod needs replacing? Will blue thread lock be enough to hold it on? Should I replace the fork seals and bushings or just clean everything up and put it back together with fresh oil? Funds are kinda tight because my girlfriends birthday is coming up ?. If I have to order new seals and a driver, I might as well order a new rebound bolt for $40? Thoughts? Opinions?
  5. Hey everyone, I just installed the GYTR FMF slip on exhaust today and got a few different problems. First thing I noticed was after turning the bike off, the exhaust started smoking out the back. Not a whole lot, but a noticeable amount of white smoke. When installing the exhaust I replaced the header gasket, and I also but Ultra Black Sealant on the slip on part of the exhaust. I'm assuming I used the wrong type of gasket sealant and that's what burning and creating smoke? It doesn't smell like burning oil or coolant, kinda smells like burning plastic if I had to describe it. Not very worried about this though, I guess i'll just let it all burn off or if it doesn't stop smoking, I will take it back off and try to clean it and use the right stuff. My big problem is the amount of backfiring; It only happens on deceleration. I did a quick check for exhaust leaks right after installing and didn't find any. I will do a more thorough check tomorrow. The exhaust that was on it before was a super heavy Lexx exhaust that was really quiet and probably very restrictive. Also the current map set is for super smooth and slow acceleration, all 0's and -'s (See picture below of the map). I'm assuming this smooth of a map is where my backfiring problem is? This is making me run lean correct? How safe is it to run the bike like this? Because I need to ride the bike tomorrow and my tuner won't come in until later in the week. Picture of my current map (middle one) & video of crazy backfiring:
  6. Hi Folks! I decided that I am tired of my 06 WR250F having horrible damping (i.e. none at all) and so am going to upgrade the suspension. My questions for you are, 1. Is it worth it, given the age of the bike and cost of the parts, to find old 06-07 YZ250F SSS twin chamber forks and shock and rebuild/upgrade them, or just install a gold valve or similar in my single chamber WR forks? I like the idea of bolting on YZ TC forks and shock, but the cost at this point for them both runs about $500-$600 and they are guaranteed to be clapped out and need a full rebuild/upgrade, just like my WR forks/shock. 2. Race Tech offers a compression gold valve available, but not a rebound gold valve. Can you tell me why this is? I would like both, of course. 3. Will YZ450F components work as well? If so, what year range? 4. Ohlins drop in cartridges look awesome, but front and rear would cost the worth of the bike ;-) Thank you for the help!
  7. I noticed a bit of play in my rear wheel the other day and was able to pinpoint that it was my linkage bearings. I ordered a pivot works kit and started disassembly. Most stuff started coming out fine but once I get the dust seals off, I uncover nothing but rust and rusty cake which used to be grease. Luckily I have all new bearings. The problem is getting the old bearings out. Ive got a vice, punches, big hammers, large sockets etc, but in my connecting rod, it looks like there's a machined shelf in the center of the hole between my two bearings meaning I can't just push them through. That would be way too easy. I haven't found any videos that hit on this topic but surely I can't be the only one who has encountered this. I've tried using a punch or screw driver to punch them out from the other side but then I just end up blowing out the race of the bearing. My last ditch option is to try and use a dremel to carefully grind it down until a piece of it can come off but I'm worried about screwing up the inside of the connecting rod. Next, I have to try and get the bearings out of the triangular linkage piece which seems like it has the same problem. If it were just one hole all the way though, this would have been done long ago. But because there's a machined shelf in the middle, its making my life a nightmare. I've been soaking them in penetrating oil, and trying to use heat but I just don't feel like its going anywhere. I don't even see how the Motion Pro tool would get this done. I replaced the shock bearings no problem. Anybody else with a similar bike have this issue? I bought this bike used 2 years ago and I'm pretty sure these are the original bearings. Half of the needles were rusted together and I couldn't even spin the collars by hand, they were frozen solid. Depending on the condition of the parts after I get these bearings out, I might end up having to order a new linkage connecting rod and relay arm.
  8. I have recently done a lot of maintenance to my WR 450f and there are still some issues which concern me with it, when I took out the clutch basket there was a gear with a bent piece on it (picture attached) This was probably done by the previous owner but I think it should probably be replaced? - When I checked the valves they were only opened for measuring when the knob things were pointed down instead of up, (picture attached) I dont know if the timing is messed up or if it has been retarded to the yz specs. ( the picture of the cam chain was when the valves were open, at the same time as the knob things were downwards in the other picture). -There is also a clattering noise from the engine but it seems to run fine? I will try to make a video for mine soon but it sounds pretty much like this persons - sorry about the bad pictures.
  9. OK here is what I have, I picked up a 03 WR450F and now its time to get it going. First off the frame oil reservoir has been by-passed. The lines from the motor to it were removed. On the side of the motor there was a single 2 point line going to the top of the motor. I have replaced the single 2 point line with the original 3 point line, and Replaced the missing lines going to the reservoir from the motor. After filling with fresh oil I am not getting any return to the reservoir. Yes I put the correct amount in and ran it up and down the street before checking. I haven't been able to find any information about deleting the reservoir modifications. I don't know if there was something else that I have to put back in the system to bring it back to original. Once I get past this issue I will tackle the 03 starter problem. Any help and advise would be greatly appreciated. PS I tried to attach a picture but it failed
  10. Seeing if I can use this method on my 450 of securing to in the back of my truck I will not be using the front wheel mount in my truck***. Only used as a test anchor point for pictures and compression. The ratchet strap ends will be attached to the inside of my truck bed. The other end to the blue strap -they will pull down at more if a 45 degree anger, not the 5-10 degree straight down in the pictures so, where i have my blue straps, will that damage the forks, frame or suspension in any way? i have too many cables running on and around my handle bar to strap it down from up there.
  11. Just ordered this kit. I have had several issues with charging and keeping my battery charged. Not getting correct voltage when the bike is running. E-Start issues as well. I have replaced the battery a few times. Is there anything I will need to be on the lookout for when I swap out the old one? Will I need to do anything with the light bulb on the headlight? I thought I might have read somewhere that a change my be required. Thanks
  12. Hi all, im looking to make my 2018 WR450F a motard. There are a set of motard rims/Tyres for sale coming off an 03 WR450F. It looks like they are the Honda CBR rims that have been adapted to the 03 WRF. If if I buy the rims including the brackets/rear axle etc will it all match up on the 18? I can’t find information to see if there will be problems... What issues may may there be between years?
  13. So as I'm adding more and more auxiliary accessories to my Wr450f, I'm running out of room on the battery terminals to connect things. I've seen some "power distribution blocks" but theyre all made for huge 0 gauge wire. Anybody have any ideas of what I could do? Or something like this, but for much smaller wire. Like 20 gauge.
  14. Does anybody know how much power the WR's brake light draws? Talking about the actual brake light, not just the running light.
  15. Anyone with a 2012 WR450F remember what size shims were in there originally? I want to know how much valve stretch I have without taking them out and measuring. Mine are all between 1.78mm-1.85mm thick. Thanks
  16. Reading forums like crazy trying to wrap my head around the light system on my bike. I am getting my bike street legal, adding lights etc. The wiring is complete, everything works per power to the battery. Last item, I want power to the lighting system only when the bike is running. Former owner installed an Acerbis light on the front, no issue there really. The lights are connected to the 2 pin connector on the front, connector appears to have 2 wires on one side and 1 wire on the other, i assume single ground and other is power. Lights work when running only. Now me and my ultimate brain power figure ok, i want that circuit to activate the rest of my lights but i don't want to overload it. SO i get a 5 pin relay and wire accordingly, relay is activated by the headlight circuit and should supply power to the system. And it does, but only when direct battery power is triggering the relay, the headlight circuit will not activate the relay, it just hums. So i hit the internet and talk to buddies etc i've read the posts ref at the bottom. From what i'm gathering if nothing has been changed from stock my system is a dual system a/c and dc. dc charging batts and some others with a/c running lights etc. I personally did not even contemplate any a/c on a vehicle/bike. figured it would all be converted to dc, any reason for a split system? So, now i'm thnking maybe the a/c will not activate my relay and that is the issue. So now i see some possibilities. 1. find a relay to activate off a/c? 2. Wire an on/off switch to engage the relay, which i was trying to avoid. I don't want to have the issue of leaving a switch on and draining batt. Thought about connecting a door chime to the relay circuit to warn etc, but eh. i'm looking for some other options maybe? Am i missing something? I don't want to upgrade the stator or covert to all dc just yet. I did try wiring the lighting system to the headlight circuit with no relay, bike starts and runs and powers the lighting system. but it made my blinker relay go crazy like flashing 1000 times a second so i figure this is the a/c system side effect also why i went the relay way of things.
  17. Hi every one. I am new to the forum but have lurked here for a while and I finally have a topic I think is worthy for discussion. I have owned a 07 yz450f for quite a while (about 4 years) and ride it 99% for trails and desert with very little to no track time. I has done a few small mods like regeared, added hand guards and a desert tank and my own lighting system using a 7in led light bar and a Milwaukee 18v 5ah m18 battery, to name a few. fast forward to about a week ago and I decided its time to make my bike a bit more friendly for me as I have had back surgery and a knee surgery in the last 3 years and kick starting a carbed bike wrecks me after a few times, so I am considering buying a wr450f. I was on craigslist and found a 07 wr450f with a grenaded motor that I picked up for $400 as I wanted the 18" wheel and the kick stand and planned to part the rest of the bike out. However the more time I look at it I am amazed at how clean the frame and major components are so I am left in a bit of a quandary. I am considering swapping the motor from my yz into the wr frame and converting it over to the wr trans gears, adding the stator, e-start, and getting my lighting set up. I Also plan on putting the yz forks and rear shock on it. Downside is A) its a lot of work. b. I will have to split the cases and figure out how to install gears and the stator. but I would essentially have a true yz/wr hybrid with the best of both and a true green sticker bike..... what would you all do? am I crazy.... sell them both and buy a ktm? lol
  18. I need some help figuring out what is going on with my bike. I have an 04 WR450F, and I was riding 5 miles of hell over the weekend. Right before the last escape route (lucky me) my bike just died. I was starting up a climb, and right at the base, it just shut down. I didn't hit anything, don't even think there was much of a bump or anything to jolt the bike. I did have a few lay downs/get offs before, but nothing here. The light on the power button wouldn't turn on, and there was no power to the headlight. I found out that I could kick start it, but it was very difficult, it took a LOT of kicking before it would start, and then it would stall if I ever let off the gas. As I was trying to figure out what was going on, I saw some white plastic (?) pieces falling out from under the headlight/front number plate. I pulled off the headlight and saw an electrical part (I assume it's like a resistor or something like that), it looked like it had been jarred loose, and got pinched by the steering, and broke it. It is a white rectangular piece, looks and feels sort of like hard plastic, about 2" long, 3/4" wide and probably only about 1/4" thick, and has 2 male quick connectors on it. Inside (since it broke, I could see, usually you wouldn't, but maybe it will help figure out what it is), is a thin wire coil, like a spring, and I'm not sure what it is wrapped around, maybe just an insulator. I tried to wrap it with some electrical tape to insulate it while riding back, but it melted the tape, and was smoking. I'm not sure where the 2 wires that connect to it go, they go back into a cluster of wires on the wiring harness, and I didn't have time to cut it all apart, and follow them, but that is the only damage that I could see, so I'm hoping that if I can figure out what this part is, and find a replacement, that will fix my problem. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks,
  19. I’ve narrowed my search for a woods bike down to these three bikes. I have about $4,000 to spend, which one of these bikes will last me the longest? Things to note, I’m mechanically retarded, outside of oil changes, spark plugs, air/oil filter… I’m &%$#@!ed or will be going to the dealership. I’m tall, 6’3 (200lbs) so a higher seat height is desired. I live in Colorado Springs and will be primarily riding Rampart Range. Which of these three bikes will I have the best experience with? Bikes I can afford seem to be in the 2000-2010 era.
  20. I'm thinking very seriously about adding a 2016+ WR450F to the garage and building it up as a dual sport. I'm thinking about getting the 15L safari tank offered in Australia if I can. Has anyone here in the USA bought that tank and installed it on the 16+ wr450f? If so, is it a good tank? Can you still use the low fuel indicator? I wonder why that tank is not offered here in the USA? Link: http://www.safaritanks.com.au/home/shop/product/1521-2015-yamaha-wr250
  21. I have a 1999 wr400f really nice shape but I would like to be able to keep up better with my 450 friends, I have a pdf file giving the details on the cam switch out with a yz450 or wr450, but it always referances with the 2000 model wr400 will this work with the 1999 model?
  22. Hey everyone! Today I bought my first WR450F! It's a 2013 plated in California! Super stoked on the bike and already want to get into it and start customizing. Let me know if there is anything I need to know because this is all new to me, my past experience has been with DRZ's so this is completely different. The main questions I have about the bike is about the ecu, programming, and maps. I have never dealt with computers on bikes before so all of this seems like witchcraft to me. The previous owner did the ecu upgrade to what he says is a "programmable YZ ecu". He was an old guy that did very light trail riding and he said he got it tuned for that kind of riding. My plans for the bike is mostly street, i'm going to be purchasing supermoto wheels soon but I also want to do some off roading. I'd say i'm going to use the bike for 80% streets and 20% dirt. Do you guys think I should get the ecu reprogrammed? He gave me the stock ecu aswell, should I put that one back on? I'm used to a slow DRZ so to me its super fast. The bike has a slip on LEXX exhaust from what I can tell. Let me know any information you have about all the Yamaha computer stuff or refer me to any good sites that explain this stuff. Anything is greatly appreciated. I'll provide a picture of the bike and also the current map that is has on it so you can tell me if it's good or not.
  23. I have been riding motorcycles on both cruisers and sport bikes since 1999. I decided to put my Yamaha FZ8 up for sale or trade to get into dirt. I am looking for a new experience and I am just bored with street riding. Anyways, I got contacted by a very nice guy in his 60's with a trade offer for a 2009 WR450F that is barely used. Barely meaning less than 500 miles. The guy sent me pics and and it looks legit plus he owns 11 other motorcycles which you can see in the pictures. I know not to go by speedo readings but for the sake of this argument lets say it is as good as he says it is. Basically, he likes having a collection of bikes and doesn't seem have time to ride all of his dirt bikes. If the bike is good and I have bunch of experience riding all types of motorcycles (meaning good throttle control and common riding sense), is it really bad to go off on a WR450F? People tell me the bike is pretty mellow. Also I am 5'11, 32 inch seam, and about 230lbs. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  24. Hi All, I've been using my '07 WR450F for MX duties but the super soft forks are making my life very hard. I have to land every bump and jump on the back wheel, as if I'm riding some 60's scrambler. Landing front wheel first or even large braking bumps cause the forks to bottom out with a loud whack! I've tried fiddling with the oil height but even a max recommended it's still the same. The stock springs fitted are 4.5N. Yamaha max recommended is 4.6N. Surely a 2% wont be enough? I'm thinking of trying 4.8N (6.6% stiffer) I'm not hitting 130ft tables so i dont need it super stiff. I'm about 70kg. What are you guys using? And did you fit more/less preload spacers?? Thanks in advance Pancho
  25. Tldr: look at the bottom, told the whole story of my crash in the first few paragraphs Hey all. I Was riding my 2011 Yamaha wr450f on the road earlier to get to some trails, 10 minute ride on some back roads from the 8-9 acres of private land I offload my bike at and start my day of riding I was riding to my trails and decided to hammer on the gas through a sharp left turn, which I've taken going 50-60mph through a bunch of times. Stupid I'm sure for the curve of the turn and with the speed limit 25 through it, but It's a backroad, not many people go on it whatever. Anyways, to the crash. I take the turn going 50 mph, then speed up to 60mph going through it. I Leaned in to the turn too much, don't have great tires for the road on my street legal wr450f, and was going way too fast so I slid on the left side of my bike on the pavement. I slid like right alongside the bike probably 20 feet. Got some road rash, torn up a bit, most of my body got small things on road rash tbh, mostly my left side. Anyways tldr my long story, crashed my wr450f at 60mph on the pavement, only messed up my clutch lever slightly and got a decent sized hole in the crank case. I rode it home with the hole in the case probably less than a mile as soon as I got up from the crash. I was just wondering, based off the pics I'm posting if I can JB weld it together for a hare scramble I have august 20th, or if I should just get a new aftermarket or OEM one? Any opionions would be great. Pic of the crack in the case isn't great, crappy lighting, but it's maybe an inch, half inch long, the biggest part of the crack to the top of it, right near the shifting pedal, whatever it's called. It bent in and poked a hole in the case. First pic is one of the oil that's leaked on my garage floor since I've had it sitting there for 12 hours, then the other 2 are of the crack in the case, not the best quality like I said
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