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Found 9 results

  1. I recently bought the bike and after first trip noticed there was a leak at the top, that seems to have went away(still leaks a little but thanks to you guys I now know that it is normal). Now onto the new issue, after the first ride I noticed there was a little bit of the leak on the forks and after the second ride it there was more oil and today I noticed there is small puddle under them. When I bought the bike the guy told me that he had just serviced them before summer so I did not give it much thought. But after the leak I contacted him and he said he did new seals, bushings and oil. So not a full rebuild but more of a service. He said to give it another ride to see maybe if it stops. Guy responded right away and in person was very upfront so I do not think he is lying, maybe just put it together wrong? I have never dealt with Suspension components so I am not to keen on opening them up. Below are some pics, so I hope some of you guys who had similar issue/know about these forks will be able to point me in the right direction.
  2. gyodock

    5b0b0de5f157c_GY2016KTM350xc-f001.JPG

    From the album: gyodock

    2016 KTM 350xc-f - Olins Fork Cartridge Inserts, FMF 4.1 RCT Muffler, Pro Circuit Linkage Arm, Torc1 Reaction Shift and Rear Brake Lever, P3 Carbon Pipe Guard, Acerbis Skid Guard, Mobie Linkage Guard, Acerbis Swing-arm Guards, RYD Crew Aluminum Handguards, Sicass Racing Tail Light Kit with Flush Mount LED Rear Turn Signals, Sicass Racing Handguards with Built-in LED Turn Signals, Rental Sprockets, Trail-Tech Stator Upgrade, ktmandhusky.com Fuel Rail and Anti-vibration Bar Ends, Guts Seat Cover, USB Charging Port, Misc Anodized Orange Aluminum Bling. My wife is getting jealous of the attention I am giving my bike!
  3. gyodock

    5b0b0df5763a9_GY2016KTM350xc-f003.JPG

    From the album: gyodock

    2016 KTM 350xc-f - Olins Fork Cartridge Inserts, FMF 4.1 RCT Muffler, Pro Circuit Linkage Arm, Torc1 Reaction Shift and Rear Brake Lever, P3 Carbon Pipe Guard, Acerbis Skid Guard, Mobie Linkage Guard, Acerbis Swing-arm Guards, RYD Crew Aluminum Handguards, Sicass Racing Tail Light Kit with Flush Mount LED Rear Turn Signals, Sicass Racing Handguards with Built-in LED Turn Signals, Rental Sprockets, Trail-Tech Stator Upgrade, ktmandhusky.com Fuel Rail and Anti-vibration Bar Ends, Guts Seat Cover, USB Charging Port, Misc Anodized Orange Aluminum Bling. My wife is getting jealous of the attention I am giving my bike!
  4. I've always tried to avoid these types of subjects as they are very subjective, but heck, they make fun topics to discuss and argue! I just recently sold my 2014 Husaberg TE250. Why? Well, I mostly race in the midwest where the trails are technical and tight mostly, but not to the level of extreme enduro. This bike seems happiest when riding up sheer mountains and over redwoods! That may be a bit of an exaggeration, but I felt this bike just wasn't the best fit for faster-paced woods racing that we have in and around the Iowa area. I was going to keep it for one more year, but a cheap 2015 YZ250FX became available and I wanted to give it a try for at least a year. This was a step in the right direction. The seller already had a lot of the things I'd need on it (Oversized tank, bark busters, lithium battery, etc.). The only thing I did was went through the motor to make sure it was good and I ended up having to replace the fuel pump. All-in-all I could likely sell it for more than I bought it. So what's the problem?? For me, it's just a bit underpowered to get going in a hurry. That's ok in about 75% of the riding I do, but when it's a deep loam or faster section I need to get up and moving in a hurry to keep up. I recently rode a buddy's KX450F. He rides pretty darned competitively in the NEPG enduros in Open A. This bike was scary fast off the bottom. Too quick he said even, but it was a mistake riding it. Now it has infected my brain with what "could" be. Finally, here's the query... I'm going to ride the YZ250FX for the remainder of the year as I made a commitment to do so. Going into next year, I'm thinking a 2017 KTM 450XC-F. I'm curious to know what people think of this bike. I've read quite a few reviews from reputable magazines, but they all seem to test it in the same type of areas. That being desert conditions and their technical stuff consists of mostly rocky areas. Doesn't really match what I'm trying to correlate it to in the midwest. I've heard the 16 and earlier KTM's can be a bit too "jerky" on technical trails, but the 17 rolls on much smoother and when you want it to "bark" and get going it WILL. I'd also like to avoid the 4CS forks and I've read good things on the AER forks thus far. I'm avoiding the 350 as friends that have it say that it's great ... if you don't mind revving your bike. I'm not a big revver and my 250FX alreayd requires a fair bit of revving out of corners. The only other real option in the 450 category is the YZ450FX. Claimed wet weight of the 2017 is 262lbs with only a 2 Gallon tank. I believe the average weight of gas is ~6.3lbs so the bike is 249.4lbs. This is nearly 26lbs heavier than the KTM's 450XC-F. For the rate of change that's like 10.4% difference between the two bikes! So no little thing. Unless the YZ goes on a bit of a diet for 2018, I'm not sure how it would be on the same level. Well this is much longer than I anticipates. I guess the last thing would be capability. I'm decent on a bike. I race towards the front of Vet-A and can usually catch about half the Open A guys that get a head start and a few unfortunate AA/Pro2 guys that are either entered in the wrong class or having a bad day!
  5. Hello everyone, I recently picked up my second KTM dirt bike, a 2015 350 XC-F after coming off my older 2006 250 SX-F. It kept having issues where the bike would completely die on me while riding. I sorted this out by putting new in fuel filters both in the tank and the small inline filter. It fixed my engine quitting problem, but then I realized I had a decel backfire and poping problem that to me sounded like it was because the engine was running too lean. I checked my valves to rule out a valve problem. Then I looked to the TPS on the bike. I read somewhere where someone said you could turn up the TPS to get it to quit. I incrementally stepped up the adjustment until the backfire went away completely. The problem is that it is turned all the way CCW. With the adjustment turned all the way up it runs like a champ. No back fires, no flameouts, pulls really really hard and the plug has that nice tan color to it that I would expect from a FI bike. The only thing that worries me is that if I put the sensor back at the .60-.70 voltage range where people say that they have been running them, the bike hardly idles and stalls at the crack of the throttle, but when I turn it back all the way up CCW it fires up and is unstoppable. My concern is that it isn't running at the stock voltage or even close to it. Also, I cleaned the injector using a 9v battery and aerosol injector/carb cleaner. I got some small pieces of dirt out but nothing big and it didnt change anything. I am new to these FI systems, but I thought they adjusted the fuel mixture automatically so to me it doesn't make sense why turning up the TPS changed the backfire. And I dont think it is a valve problem because of how it fixed it when I turned up the TPS. My question is 1) what is wrong with the bike to where it won't run at the stock voltage and 2) Am I hurting anything by running it how it is? Am I burning more fuel? I have been trying everything and I am pulling my hair out trying to figure out why it is doing this. But I have a new Lexx Exhaust with spark arrestor coming so I can ride in the mountains and if I have to turn the TPS up anymore to adjust for the new pipe I am up a creek because it is already maxed CCW. Thanks in advance for all your help, Josh
  6. MotoXRacer_19

    KTM 350 XC-F Reviews

    Hi Guys. I'm in the market for a different bike as mine isn't cutting it for me anymore. I have a 2010 KTM 250 XC and have the opportunity to buy a damn near brand new 2014 KTM 350 XC-F. I've heard a lot of mixed things about the 350, and was wondering what the owners of them have to say about them. I've read a lot about different years but haven't heard much of anything about the 2014. Can someone help me out?
  7. I just purchased a new 2017 KTM 450XC-F and really love the thing. I rode a buddy's 450 and knew it was the bike I was looking for. My 250 just wasn't doing it for me in the power department and I'm not fond of revving the bike to get what I need out of it. It starts fine, but it takes a couple of seconds for it to start up. Not a big deal for most, but I need it to start much quicker to be competitive for harescrambles. Looking up the battery, it doesn't tell me anything about turning amperage or anything of that sort. Curious to know if anyone has replaced the stock lithium battery to get something to be competitive off the line and what they found to be useful. Secondly, I really love the clutch on the bike. It's silky smooth, but once in a while the bike just flames out and it drives me nuts. I don't want to get a Rekluse, but I can't have it flaming out on me every 30min or so. Has anyone had issues like this and fixed it? I've heard the TPS may be something to look into, but don't want to start changing things drastically for a smaller issue. I prefer to get a good baseline of the bike and make tweaks here and there.
  8. Hi, I recently bought a 2009 KTM 250 XC-F. Everything is great about it, although I am having a minor issue with the clutch. So I start up the bike, let it idle for a minute or so to get everything up to temperature, pull and hold in the clutch...shift into first...and...*jolt forward*...*stall* I have peeked inside the oil cap and the clutch operates fine (obviously when the bike isn't running). So I then have to start up the bike again and let it idle longer. I have found that it takes almost 2-3 minutes, sometimes i give it a 1/4 throttle to get things going faster. After enough time I shift into first, still get a little jolt, but engine continues to run like the clutch finally separated from the plate. But after this everything is flawless, clutch operates perfect. It's just with a cold engine, the clutch doesn't work. Is this normal and I have just never been told this?? I find it annoying how I have to sit there for 3 minutes or so just letting the engine idle before the bike can even move. Thanks for any info, Dean
  9. MotoXRacer_19

    KTM 2-stroke Overheating

    I'm caught between a rock and a hard place. My 2010 KTM 250 XC won't stop peeing coolant out of the overflow tube. I've used 3 different radiator caps (two of the oem 1.8 bar caps and one CV4 2.0 bar) and it still continues to pee coolant as soon as the bike starts up. I just recently bought and installed brand new radiators [GPI on eBay for $88 (the seem fine just the welds are a bit crappy and you can see inside of the tubes where the metal from the welds drooped down but there are no blocks)] and silicone hoses (profactory hoses) thinking they were the problem since the old radiators were bent in like bananas. To my dismay that was apparently not the issue. I've had everything apart and looked at. Has brand new base gaskets, head gaskets, radiators, and radiator hoses. I've bled the radiators like the manual says and there are no bubbles like air leaking into the system or being in the system. The jetting is also perfect. The only thing I haven't changed out is the oem impeller in the water pump but it looks to be in great condition. Any ideas on how I can fix this problem before it gets worse? Also, has anyone else had this problem and figured out how to fix it? I ride it in mostly tight 0-10 mph trails and also some 10-20 mph trails.
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