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Found 39 results

  1. I have a 1986 xr250r, I'm interested in converting the rear drum brake wheel assembly to a rear disc brake system. Has anyone done this, and can you tell me what application parts will get the job done. thanks
  2. Hey, new member here, my name is Josh. Been looking to get on a bike as I'm growing tired of only having the blaster, so been reading on here about a good beginner bike for myself, and started looking for xr250s. I ended up a project 1994 xr250r, with a broken kick start return spring. (According to PO). He said he picked it up as a project himself but time got away from him. Many oil leaks on this thing during the time I did get it to fire... all valve adjustment caps on rocker cover, oil line fitting at oil cooler, all engine mount bolts loose, 2 hex caps on inside of cyl head by spark plug leak, missing rear brake pedal, kickstand. Also Found a pile of JB weld on clutch cover right above kickstart. (Covering g auto decompression shaft orifice).. I Pulled the cover, and find spring is not broken, but installed on opposite side of casting boss in crankcase. Auto decompression parts Missing in crankcase it seems as well?. Well after I pulled out kickstart shaft to reseat the spring, noticed a bolt was missing from bracket that mounts toward rear of engine and holds the tab on the kicker shaft... Started feeling around with a magnet through the crankcase looking for the missing bolt, and pulled this part out.. what am I dealing with here? Seems like I may need to pull motor and go through it huh... Can anyone ID this small piece and recommend where to go from here? Working with different cars over the years it almost looks like a relief valve plunger for the oil pump... Anybody confirm?
  3. Hi, I have a question about my xr250. Its having problems with the kickstarter and I came here to see if anyone had some insight. I was riding it the other day, and I use it for a sort of long commute so i was going 65-75 for about 30 min. The bike shut off, tires didn't lock up, but i pulled the clutch in and rolled off to the side. tried kicking it over but it was immediately locked. You can see in the picture where the kickstarter stops at. its completely dead locked at that point, no give at all. rolls in neutral still. brought it home, opened up the oil to check for anything strange but looks clean. as far as the bikes condition previously, it has an oil leak coming from the head, i think i did it the few months i had it. the sleeve that holds the exhaust into the head popped off, rode it like that for a few days before replacing the part. a week before this problem. I'm completely amateur to bikes, but i want to take a crack at it and get this thing fixed up. the oil level in the bike may have been slightly overfilled as well. i was topping off because of the leak. where would be the best place to begin here? Thanks for helping
  4. Does a XR250L have the same voltage regulator withR version? Can anyone show me a picture of it. Thank you.
  5. Basically this is causing my carb to overflow as it gets stuck on this brown pin, how and what do I need to do to fix this, many thanks ๐Ÿ™‚
  6. I recently bought a 1986 XR250R that had a broken shifter shaft. I already have the new part but i'm having some difficulty splitting the two crank cases. I have the top end completely dismantled and I was able to split the two cases about 3/4 of an inch but something is not allowing to split all the way. I haven't pulled the clutch and would prefer not to, I just need to know the simplest way to split the two cases I don't have any specialized tools or anything like that. Is it possible to pull off the flywheel to split the cases and ignore the clutch all together? Thank you in advance for any replies.
  7. Hi guys i have my pumper carb cleaned and ready to be assembled,iv forgotten where to insert the 2 spring washers and plastic washer on the top link arm/throttle drum.Any advice help answers suggestions Thank you in advance.In the diagrams for both xr250r and xr250l nothing about the spring washers.Although the plastic washer is in the 250r diagrams,im thinking mine was a hybrid,mostly they say the pumper carbs didnt have the jet needle adjustable mine is .................il post up everything all pics and steps so anyone who opens their carb will have no issues at all.
  8. the problem is when i give it throttle it idles at that rpm and doesnt come back down unless i crack the throttle. i've tried adjusting the cables but no such luck.
  9. I have an 84 xr250 and im having a hell of a time finding an aftermarket or new gas cap. Theres all sorts of them on ebay that say they fit and so far no luck, trying not to have to buy a used one. Any leads would be greatly appreciated
  10. Hello, I have a 1995 xr250r thats getting practically a new top end. new piston and rings, cylinder honed, new valves, valve keepers, cam chain, and like one or two more things, and I don't have any experience with breaking in engines, so I was wondering if I could get your opinions on how I should break it in? Thanks.
  11. I bought a set of ASV F3 shorty levers for my XR250R from ATVGalaxy on ebay for $128.95. They came in a bubble wrap lined USPS priority envelope and the levers are in an unsealed plastic package that's hacked up at the top like someone took scissors to it and it's completely unlabeled except for an embossed "ASV" on the side. No stickers or anything but there appears to be residue of a sticker on the plastic. The dust covers are in a separate plastic bag with a UPS label. The onlly paperwork is a black & white paper with information about F3 and the warranty. There's some defects in the aluminum but nothing that's major except on the brake lever there is some strange polishing marks that don't look normal. Can anyone relay some info about their ASV packaging and the appearance and any experience with ATVGalaxy? I see on a YZ forum some guys had nothing but praise for that seller several years ago.
  12. Does it matter how the valve cover goes back on? I'm going to take it back off and redo as the manual says, but I didn't think it mattered. FSM says to install with the lobes down and I'm not sure if I did that. I'm having trouble finding TDC on comp stroke and was wondering if that would cause that problem. Also I get to a point where all my valves in. And ex. Are open at the same time.
  13. My XR250R needed a new timing chain (and clutchplates) and I've noticed that some people doesn't have a clue where to start, and thinks it's a job for pro's... But I can tell you that everybody can do it, so I've made some pictures during my process. See it as a reference next to your manual ๐Ÿ˜‰ The patient, yes... I have painted it a bit grey just to see if I like the look of a grey XR engine in my Honda Banana XR/DRZ project (see topic elsewhere on TT) This engine has a 77mm Wiseco piston kit (so it's a 277cc) together with a new headgasket and I flowed the inlet and exhaust ports a bit. That it needed a new timing chain was something I already knew, but when I installed the overbored set I noticed that my cilinder head wasn't that good either... A XR engine is quite bulletproof but it's heads are prone to crack... Typical, these cracks always (99 of 100 times) appears next to the exhaust valves and plug hole. Also a typical XR250R failure are their head gaskets.... I still don't understand why Honda haven't made the front stud a bit beavier at the exhaust side... If you torque your cilinder down, it's almost at it's point where threads will vanish... so it happens that a lot that people over thighten this front stud > biggest cause of a leaking head gasket... I just fixed it with tapping a new M12 (! instead of 10mm) thread into the cilinder, so no more leaking head gaskets... ever... Ok ok... now back to the timing chain... If you lift of the valve cover you'll see something like this, and you know that your chain is shot if you experience the same view as below; next to the chain you see a piece of metal where the left side of it, sunk into the metal slider. Only on the right side you'll see a small piece of metal sticking out... well, if you see this, you can be sure that your chain is shot : And, in my case, that the "T mark" in the inspection hole doesn't line up anymore with the 2 lines on your cam sprocket: Just 1 line (on the right side of the sprocket) is visible The bike started really bad (it took a lot of kicks to wake up the beast) and that's isn't really strange when your ignition is a bit off... ๐Ÿ˜‰ Anyway... let's start: Press with your finger on the metal tab (which is sticking out) at the cam chainslider, it releases the tension of the chainslider. Now grab with your other hand a screwdriver and pry out the left sunken piece of metal and try to get this piece as high as possible out of this 'sink hole'. You know when you're high enough when a small gap appears in which you can put a paperclip or something to secure the left slider to sink back again into the hole. I have used a pop rivet to secure it: Now the tension is of the chain so now you can start with loosing the cam chain, cam and chain sprocket. At the backside of the cam chain sprocket you'll see 2 10mm bolts. Just turn them loose, no worries, the sprocket will stay put on the cam. Use a rachet on the other side of the engine (inspection hole) to line up the 2 cam chain sprockets bolts for easier unbolting. Next, you'll need to wiggle out the cam, I found it easier to pull the 2 ball bearings first. Then the cam will slide out easily. Then you'll have something like this Don't worry if the chain falls down the hole, we are going to open up this side of the engine case anyway ๐Ÿ™‚ Loose all the engine case bolts and don't forget to loose the bolt of the oilpipe too (shown on the picture). If you're sure that all bolts are loose (the 3 bolt for the oil filter and filter itself can stay), tap with a rubber hammer on the engine case as most of the times the gasket acts as glue so splitting the case will be a bit of a challenge... whatever you do, don't use a screwdriver to pry open the case!!!! EVER!!!! When everything is off nicely, you'll see this: You notice that the cam chain is hidden after the clutch cage and behind the pickup coil. So that has to be removed otherwise the chain can't be changed... We start with removing the clutch, you have to loose the 4 10mm bolts in cross patern, really easily and step by step. I usually do max. 3 turns per bolt and move to another one. If you don't do this and you decide to completely loosen the bolts one by one then the clutch springs could be damaged. If the 4 bolts are loose, then you can take the springs out. And while they're out you can measure them for wear. Mine are good enough for another decade of abuse ๐Ÿ™‚ Next thing to do, is to remove the clutch plate cage (holder). You can do this on different ways... With the 'special Honda tool', with the "special low budget tool, which is clothing or a towel between the gear sprockets" or just a plain ol air impact wrench. I use the last one: Clutch cage out of the engine You can check these for wear too, the service limit is 2.69mm, mine are 2.78... But also measured one plate (first plate engine side) which was only 2.71mm So... nearly at the service limit... Hmmm... I decided to order some new clutch plates... It's really to near to it's service limits to ignore... Anyway, let's proceed with the chain: When the clutch removed we still need to loosen the bolt which holts the pick up sprocket, same story here as with the clutch cage, let the impact wrench do it's magic: When this bolt (24mm) is loose, then we have full access to the chain and you'll have the following pieces of the pick-up axle; Not needed to mark anything, as Mr. Honda did the marking for you.... Also it is almost impossible to put it back on the wrong way as it's a one way fit ๐Ÿ˜‰ Full access to the chain now: You now can remove the chain from this side really easy I know a lot of people swear by OEM parts, but I prefer D.I.D. as my cam chain supplier... why? They're cheap... โ‚ฌ20 for a chain is a better price than OEM costs... and yes, they are reliable as I've used these chains in a lot of bikes (also supersports) with no problems. You don't need to be an expert to see which chain is new and which chain is shot: Put the new chain in in reverse order, so follow the steps from above back to the beginning... When everything (so your cam, cam chain sprocket and cam bearings, pick up gearing) is bolted up again, use a torque wrench to secure the the pick up axle (or cam chain axle in the engine) at 65 NM (is what I use). Before you torque this bolt down (and install the cam chain sprocket) make sure that the "T'" mark in the inspection hole lines up with the mark at the case, and that the 2 lines of the cam sprocket lines up with the top of the cilinderhead. (see pictures below). If you're sure that everything lines up then you can bolt it up, torque it down and don't forget to remove the paperclip (or pop rivet) you've used to keep the chain tension off! When the job has been done correctly you'll see something like this: Also notice that you won't have that 'sink hole' anymore and the sprocket lines up with the top of the cilinder head ๐Ÿ˜‰ Perfect! ๐Ÿ™‚ ๐Ÿ™‚ ๐Ÿ™‚ A bit less perfect is, is that I have to wait for my clutch plates to arrive... When they arrive I'll continue in this topic to make it a complete write up. Hopefully I have shown that doing some mild engine work isn't that difficult and that a lot of cam chain related questions has been answered with this topic. Update will follow when I have my plates in house! ๐Ÿ˜‰
  14. Went riding on Christmas Eve everything was working fine went through some mud and slipped dropped my bike tried to kick start it and the kick start went limp pushed it back up got compression again kicked it over a bunch of times started to run again rode it for the rest of the ride with no problems then on the way back on the road I gave it fill throttle and it died hasn't started since and now has little compression. Replaced the spark plug and changed the oil and filter and adjusted the valves but still very little Compression and won't start. Any ideas?? Would greatly appreciate
  15. Hi, I am replacing my cover on my XR the valve pivot bolts 2 seem bigger than the other 4 but I was wondering what the torques are on these bolts because I want to put some locktite on it too and get them torqued down properly. Also the cover bolts there is 3 different types around the cover and I want to find out the torque for those (I have the honda parts photo of all bolts etc.) but I don't know if their torque is the same too, I just wanna do it and not worry about it for a long time again as its my first time getting into any engine related work, any help would be appreciated guys.
  16. I have an 1989 xr250r that had an oil issue that I already fixed but my camshaft is rocked one of the lobes messed up and I can't find another. My question is can i use a 1996 or later cam on it they look the same but I was hoping someone knew thanks
  17. Hi, I ride a 2001 BMW F650 Funduro but I want to get something that is more enduro capable and that is not a drag when I drop it. The past few days I searched for bikes that were in the range of my criteria: Lightweight: I will probably drop it a few times. I've dropped the BMW a few times and it is NOT fun to pick it up, I'm always scared I break something on the thing because some things stick out. Durable: I'm not THAT mechanically-savy but I'm willing to learn. However; i'd rather ride than wrench on the bike. I'm not looking for something that needs adjustments every time I've ridden it. Low maintenance: same as above. In my search for a nice dual sport/enduro bike I've encountered a lot of these nice sounding 2 cylinders but a lot of people say that you can't really ride those on the street to the woods (around 200km/125miles) because it will need service intervals really fast (top end rebuilds etc). I don't want that. I want it to be able to take a few stretches of road (nothing fast) but also dirt/woods/enduro paths/trails etc. Easy to work on: IF something happens it would be nice that the bike is easy to work on. What it needs to do: ride some road (about 70 miles to and from location). I want to ride in some sandpits, woods, tight trails, and want to see if I like enduro. My country is really flat so we don't have a lot of hills unfortunatly but to give you an impression of what i'd like to do: So far I've pretty much narrowed it down to the XR250R, a 1994 model that I've seen on my local ebay-like site. However, the KDX250 keeps popping op in my head ('you like the sound of a 2 stroke, its faster, broaap'). In comparison to the XR250R, how low maintenance is the KDX250? Is it one of the typical dirt bikes that you should load on the back of your truck to ride to the destination and even then have to do all sorts of maintenance on it to make it rideable again? Or is it like the XR250 that you can practically ride to the destination, ride it there, ride back and pretty much change the oil and air filter once in a while (or so I've heard?). Oh, and anything I need to look out for on the XR250R? ๐Ÿ™‚ Thanks in advance guys, I'm really looking forward to getting one of these bikes!!
  18. I bought a 2001 xr200r bike as a project and am in the process of rebuilding it. I have never rebuilt a bike before, only automotive engines and was intrigued by the versatility and challenge of doing something I've never done before, plus who doesn't want a dirt bike? I have been told that I can bore out the cylinder in order to accommodate an xr250r piston. I have done research on the differences between the two motors through schematics and specifications, but I still have some questions and concerns. 1. Is an xr250r top end compatible with an xr200r bottom end? 2. Is rejetting the xr200r carb enough or should I upgrade to a xr250r carb and fuel tank? 3. Can it remain a two valve system or would I rebuild the whole top end with a xr250r 4 valve? 4. Dry sump vs. wet sump? 5. Is it worth the power difference? 6. Higher performance bearings in the bottom end to handle the power difference? 7. Available kits or call a machine shop? Like I said, this is the first time I have ever done this so inexperienced is a kind way of saying I'm pretty in the dark here, but looking to learn and build a beautiful machine for next season. Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  19. anyone have any luck with the cheap ebay cylinders and pistons. need to rebuild my xr and forking out about $400 for a rebuild seems kinda dumb because that is more than half the price of the bike. I was looking at ebay cylinders for cheap ($65ish) and would just put a wiseco piston in. please, any feedback will help.
  20. Hi there, So I am starting racing with a new bike, 1985 (rfvc) Xr250r. This bike is a race bike, however I was wondering how to keep it cool as it is air cooled, now the oil I use doesn't tend to overheat too fast however after a full day of racing i'm sure it will. How can I install an oil cooler? I have read article about people modding the xr200r (Rfvc) to have one. But not how to do it... So How do I do it?
  21. Hello, I have an xr250R and need to replace to front braking system in its entirety. Im UK based and im finding it hard to get hold of what I need. Is anyone able to point me in the right direction?
  22. Hey gang, Been lurking in these forums for a while now as a non-user and am excited to join the club now that I've started my first project. I picked up a used 2000 Honda XR250R from a guy in San Antonio for a fair price as the bike seems to be in good condition and has had fairly moderate to light use on his farm for the past few years. Anyway, I'm in the process of getting the title in my name while I wait for some parts to make the bike street legal (as well as a helmet). I've owned a few bikes in the past but have never had a bike that I've intended to maintain myself (which is the whole point of the purchase). It's intended to be as much a learning experience as it is a utility as I will be using this as my DD. I'm mechanically inclined but know that I have a lot of learning in front of me. Exercise 1 - I've obviously fired up the bike quite a few times since purchasing it about 3 weeks ago and, since then, the sweltering heat has rolled into Texas. The bike, unfortunately sat in the shed for the past week and a half as I've been waiting for my helmet to arrive at my doorstep. In trying to fire the bike up after sitting, the bike was staring at full choke but then puttering out after 10 seconds (which is expected based on my research). At half choke, however, the bike was continuing to putter out after about 20 seconds, but with some throttle, I was able to warm it up at half choke then go fully off and ride her around. That said, once I got to a stop sign the bike puttered out in 1st. So I fired it back up, got home and started doing some research. My findings yielded that maybe the spark plug needs to be inspected, maybe the carb needs to be cleaned, maybe I should dump/clean the gas tank, maybe I should buy a bus ticket to Mexico and never come back, etc. Before diving head first into any of these approaches, I pulled the bike out today and tried to fire her up. She idled at full choke and then puttered out, but when I went to half choke and tried to start her, nothing. The service manual recommended pulling the decomp lever, opening the throttle and giving it a few kicks. Still nothing. I went back to the internet and found a guy talking about adjusting the throttle stop screw and upon inspection, it looks to be screwed all the way out. Is this normal? I was hesititant to begin playing with something that I don't fully understand, so I let it be. Sorry, I know that this is a lot to react to and I'm sure that this will elicit a few chuckles in front of the screen, but I'd really like to work through the problem instead of throwing my hands up and brining it into a shop. Any thoughts would be very appreciated. Cheers.
  23. What is the seat height on a 1985 xr250r?
  24. Hey all, I am currently nearing the the end of an engine rebuild from top to bottom of my 1987 xr250r. Engine is back in the frame with everything mainly hooked back up just waiting on a new front tire inner tube to come in the mail. I was just wondering if anyone had any advice on some pre checks that should be done before starting it up and breaking the engine in. Should the oil pump be primed and if so how does one go about doing that since it isn't in the service manual. For reference I put in all new bearings and oil seals from bottom to top, newer shifting forks, 77mm JE piston kit, Kibblewhite valves, new valve springs, new timing chain, Wiesco top end gasket kit but bought oem valve cover gasket and bottom end gaskets, and new oil filter. Also did the USD fork conversion, put some 2001 cr125 forks on it....and I think that is about it but anyways yeah so if anyone has any tips before this old stick of dynamite gets lit in a couple of days it would be greatly appreciated.
  25. Recently did a dual sport conversion on my '03 XR250R. Purchased a used Baja Designs setup off of Ebay (the one with the horn, RR, and battery mounted behind the cowl) and it works like a charm, except those old NiCads the kit came with were junk. So, I scoured the interwebs to see what other folks used for a non-electric start battery setup. Not really happy with some of the alternatives, since I wanted battery that would keep the headlight up for a decent amount of time without it running. I came across a LiPo battery on Amazon, which has high and low circuit protection, overtemp protection, lightweight, (1.5 lbs), plenty of capacity (6 Ah) and CHEAP ($29). Thought I'd share a couple of install pics: Wrapped the battery with an old tire tube to protect it from chafing and it just fits. Had to relocate the CDI and bend the CDI bracket down, but really pretty painless. I might add a zip tie to the top but otherwise the tank will keep it upright One more thing, I'm trying it out since the specs and the price says it should be great setup but time will tell. I'll give feedback if the battery isn't any good. Also, I've no idea if it's viable for an E-start. Just wanted to share. Scott L.
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