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  1. This is my first post so hopefully I have this in the right area. So I'm looking to buy a new bike in a few months and can't decide what Beta to buy. I am going between an xtrainer, a 300rr or the 390rs. I know they have slightly different areas that they excel. I am coming from a 1998 xr400 and an xr250. My question is do any of these new bikes I am looking at have good off idle torque, like slow speed tractor torque. Both my xr's could chug along and climb almost anything but they are heavy and getting older. I dabbled in trials for a bit so I really like the low end pull of thoses 2 strokes, but I also have had a few mx bikes that had nothing down low. What are the beta 2 stokes like. Also does the 390 have a pretty low first gear if I go the 4 stroke route. I ride some pretty rough single track in Georgetown ca if anyone is familiar with that. Lots of switch backs and no room to get speed over some of the obstacles. I am more of a technical rider, don't do much high speed stuff so I'm not to worried about the soft suspension of the xtrainer. For backround I am 200 lbs, 6ft, I'm a decent rider but don't race or anything. I have had loads of Japanese bikes and I am wanting to try out a European enduro, this would be my first new bike. Hope the post isn't to long. Thanks
  2. Hi, I posted the same question in the crf250x forum, but I thought that I would post here too, since it is related to putting crf forks on my xr400... Could someone do me a favour and measure their crf250x front axle please, if you have one fitted as part of your fork conversion? The specific measurements that I would like are: - Length of the shoulder - Length of threaded part of axle - Overall length I purchased an axle from eBay, which supposedly came from a crf250x, but it doesn't quite work out... I have an axle from a known crf250r, which, in conjunction with my 250x wheel and spacers (one of which for the speedo drive delete) all works out and mounts up fine. When I switch-out the 250r axle, for the supposed 250x axle, and swap out the speedo-delete spacer for the 250x speedo drive, it seems that the shoulder of the axle is about 5mm too long as it hangs out of the fork leg clamp, and not enough of the threaded part seems to protrude from the left hand side of the fork. Thanks in advance. Yooj
  3. I have a 1986 xr250r, I'm interested in converting the rear drum brake wheel assembly to a rear disc brake system. Has anyone done this, and can you tell me what application parts will get the job done. thanks
  4. Hello, I'm new to the forum and new to Dirt bikes. I have an issue I was hoping someone could help me with or give me advice. I picked up a 98 XR400 for 200 bucks but the teeth on the kickstarter joint is rounded off. I put a 2002 xr250 kickstarter on it and it fit around the spindle but it wasn't very practical for permanent use, there's certain clearance issues. Anyways it fit well enough to get my XR400 started up in two kicks. Knowing that the kickstarter has been discontinued for this year. Does anyone have any new information on a kickstarter from another bike or year model that will fit on a 98 XR400? Maybe any leads on where I can buy a 98 kickstarter?? I've read the postings on this same issue and I'm aware of the modification that can be made but I really don't want to do it, at least not right now. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
  5. Hey all, I've been reading forums till my eyes bleed. But there's no 100% writeup with pictures on an xr400 electric start conversion...I was thinking of biting the bullet on the oem honda xr400 supermotard harness, as this is already outfitted for turn signals etc. Will this work with the Honda trx400ex stator,cdi,etc? Also. Does the INNER left hand case need to be swapped from the 400ex, or just the crank and OUTER case cover (stator cover) ?any help is greatly appreciated..
  6. My 2001 400 has been sitting for 4 years whilst I was having an affair with a much younger, sexier Husky 300 2T.........today i drained the tank, pulled the carb...cleaned it, rejetted it 60 pilot, 160 main. Put fresh 93 octane no ethanol gas in it and it fires up but has these weird hiccups while idling. They arent backfires, theyre like...well...hiccups. is this the symptom of a vacuum leak? The snorkle under the seat is absent and im running it in my garage without the airfilter on it. I havent messed with any mixture screws and the timing was ok the last time it ran. Take a listen and ya'll tell me what might cause this hiccup. Thanks!! https://youtu.be/nt72ya7bpqw
  7. Hello! I am removing an old enduro/street legal kit for my 1997 XR400 and upgrading to LED blinkers and an LED front light - i want to keep the stock rear fender with the brake light/two filament bulb because it works. I am doing this with a Baja Designs Squadron Pro MC LED Race headlight, the Baja designs REC/REG and fuse, Tusk LED/Harness/blinker kit, and a 12V AGM battery. Here is my modified wiring diagram - with the Stock diagram for reference. Was hoping some of you wiring gurus (or XR guys) would look over my drawing and see if you can find any issues or have suggestions before I start cutting things up. :) Thanks!
  8. Good afternoon, I'm looking to get my 1998 Honda Xr400 street legal in California for me and my father but I am very confused on how to. I have been told that anything made before 2004 can still obtain a plate in California, but I have also heard the reverse of this. Can anyone from California please let me know or pm me if its a possibility to get it legal for the street. And if so what street kits do you guys recommend? Thank you for your time!
  9. Hi - New to thumpers and TT I picked up two XR400s last summer - a 99 that was in pretty decent shape, and a 2003 that was in slightly less good shape. My son and I rode all last summer with no problems, and most of this summer. But now the 03 has a pronounced ticking sound that seems to come from the top end. I am a noob when it comes to thumpers, and not really mechanically inclined, so could use some help. A couple of weeks ago, my son and I rode perhaps 600 or 700 miles (riding to Ouray, then a couple sections of the COBDR to Buena Vista) around 200 of which was on pavement. The bike was working hard to stay at 60mph-ish (bike in question has a 48 rear sprocket so rpms were high). I just checked the valves (following a youtube vid, and other than not being sure that I was at TDC on the right stroke, the process was easy) and the clearances were within spec. There is no decomp lever/cable, but the guide and mechanism is in place on the outside of the engine case. I didn't remove it and didn't know to ask about such. The shop I bought from (local KTM shop, the bike was owner's brother's) said the bike had been sitting for 10 years and that they had replaced the piston. I didn't ask for nor was offered details on that work. It started up and ran fine. Again, we rode all last summer and up til now, no issues other than a bit hard to start. This is my first kick start bike, and I don't know if it applies here, but sometimes I would get two or three kicks and then on the next kick the kickstart lever wouldn't move at all - like something was bound/stuck. Slowly pushing the lever down would get it past the strong resistance and then I could kick normally. I took an audio recording of both bikes on a cold start and uploaded it to youtube. The 99 sounds SO much quieter... Link to Youtube Anyone care to take a quick listen and give me some hints as to what to look at next? Thanks!
  10. Hi everyone! I had a crf230 that I learned on for months it was built up by the previous owner and it was an amazing and powerful bike for a 230. I had someone offer a clean xr400. It's a 1996 I bought and well months later here I am. I absolutely love this bike. I've ridden a drz now a 400 and I honestly love the xr more. Anyways I'm doing a build on it because after months of searching I found one of the previous owners and got the title and that had a extensive record. So I decided to do a rebuild on it after the top end has been making noises galore. Im pretty sure it was just a failed timing chain tensioner but I figured I'd tear down the motor and learn how it all works. It's my first time and I'm 17 years old by the way. I don't know what the bikes been through and I want this bike to last me a long time. My goals are to have a good round town dual sport. I'm getting a second bike for longer journeys and highway travels. I'm stuck currently on the camshaft. I have to loose then Allen bolts on the camshaft gear and they won't break loose. I have the tighest fitting Allen wrench I got but it just keeps wanting to round off now before it does round off what are my options? I have the correct size Allen wrench. And I'm getting a new camshaft with gear and everything but wouldn't like to make a mess. Just need tips ! My plans for the future are: *Weisco 426 kit with new cylinder, piston, rings, and gaskets just under 11 compression ratio *Stage 2 hotcams camshaft *Kibble white valve spring sets *Xrsonly slip on exhaust and modified pumper carb *Valve seals *Crf450 timing chain *New timing chain tensioner *Maybe new valves but I doubt it. It always started first kick before the tear down *Clean up and polish the head *Tusk lighting Enduro kit *Upgraded headlight(what do you recommend?) *New white plastics *Good dual sport tires 60% dirt 40% street somewhere around there I appreciate all the tips and help I receive!
  11. I’ve narrowed my search for a woods bike down to these three bikes. I have about $4,000 to spend, which one of these bikes will last me the longest? Things to note, I’m mechanically retarded, outside of oil changes, spark plugs, air/oil filter… I’m &%$#@!ed or will be going to the dealership. I’m tall, 6’3 (200lbs) so a higher seat height is desired. I live in Colorado Springs and will be primarily riding Rampart Range. Which of these three bikes will I have the best experience with? Bikes I can afford seem to be in the 2000-2010 era.
  12. I rebuilt my lower end and just finished putting it all together and bolted the cylinder head on -- and then I found this unidentified washer on my parts table. It must have fallen off some bigger part that I did not bag. It looks like a 6.5 mm ID, THICK washer (not a copper sealing washer). Could it be this part (below) that holds the plastic cam chain tensioner arm in place, called a Drum Stopper Washer? I see photos of this washer but it does not appear to be THICK. WASHER, DRUM STOPPER Part# 90417-360-000 Nightmare scenario here! It measure to be a 6.5mm ID washer, but I suppose it would also fit on a 6mm bolt. It definitely will not fit on a 8mm bolt. Measurements are on the attached photo. Any help from the xr400 experts appreciated!
  13. Hi there, i got me a problem. my xr400, about a week ago i heard a slight ticking in the right hand side of the head, the sound kept getting louder as i rode the bike to and from work. i figured it was the valves. so when it got loud enough to hear without listening for it i went in and checked valves for the first time in my life. did a fair job. in spec now. but as i didnt know much as it was my first time, in all my wisdom i turned the flywheel clockwise trying to find tdc. (Which isnt where it should be, not on the T marker) i heard a clicking/snapping noise when i did this, ive read now that it could have been the manual decomp? but now the noise is so loud its almost drowning out the idle. i checked the cam chain tensioner. its fully extended itself. is this my problem? or did i break something?
  14. I have a pretty crazy problem. This has probably never happened to anyone before, but here goes..... I own a mint 1987 XR250R. The bike maybe has 20-25hr on it. It ran fine when I bought it in the Fall. I pulled it out to start it. It started after a few kicks, however on the return of the kickstarter it somehow rotated internally to the left and now it is caught behind the posterior portion of the frame where the exhaust bolts on. When I say caught, it may be more accurate to say completely jammed.I took off the exhaust in hopes of creating some room to move the kickstarter down and out, but this did nothing to help my cause. I cannot push the kickstarter down any further- it feels locked and I don't want to break or bend anything. I thought to pull kickstarter off and I can't. The top portion of the kickstarter lever is f'ing wedged in behind the posterior portion of the frame and won't allow me to simply pull off the kickstarter at it's base. I can only pull it out so far and then the top part of the kickstarter lever wedged against the frame stops it. I did see the screw on the kickstarter top portion where it attaches to the base of the kickstarter. I took this screw out thinking I could 'tap' the kickstarter's top portion off. The top portion looks like is should come off not problem, but it won't. I'm not sure if it simply slides on or slides on and then locks into position with a twist. If it locks with twisting, I have no idea which way to turn it. I do have the factory service manual, and I'm surprised it shows nothing about the kickstart lever coming off. I've hit YouTube and can't get anything. If anyone has any ideas, I'd really appreciate it. I apologize in advance if this sounds ridiculous or is a purely elementary fix for someone who's very experienced / mechanically inclined. I'll be the first to admit I am no motorcycle mechanic but can usually do most stuff without incident. Warmer weather is coming to Northern NY and I just want to get the bike ready to go. This certainly isn't helping matters. In addition... the bike started and made are really odd noise after the kickstarter got wedged on its return stroke and then died. I'm hoping it doesn't mean something horrific just happened. Thanks in advance for any info. At this point anything is better than what I'm doing. I know being Sunday afternoon, odds of getting responses are pretty low....
  15. As the title states, I am in need of a replacement float bowl for a Mikuni TM 36-68. I cannot find a supplier who has access to or can sell me just the bowl. Any leads on where to look for such would be appreciated. Or if anyone has a messed up carb of this nomenclature that they are interested in selling or just the bowl, please contact me. Tom PS Anyone have any experience with repairing such a crack in thin aluminum casting with metal/epoxy compounds?
  16. Hi all, I've been working on my 04 XR400 for about 3 weeks. I bought the bike used and it needed a bit of a carburetor clean so I took the carb apart and while I was at it I replaced the float bowl gasket, the idle jet, main jet, pilot screw adjuster and the float needle valve. I cleaned out the whole carb as best as I could with some carb cleaner and made sure that the floats were at the appropriate height. I put the carb back on the bike and filled her up and immediately gas started pissing out of the carb over flow hoses on any position on the fuel pet cock (on, off and reserve). Also, gas was leaking from the petcock its self; it wasn't doing this before. I did notice however that a plastic circular piece about the same diameter as the fuel cap opening fell out from inside of the gas tank when I initially took the gas tank off and cleaned the inside. I did not replace this plastic piece it because I didn't know what it was, where it was supposed to be, if it was even supposed to be in there in the first place or how to put it back. It may also be worth noting that the duration that the gas tank assembly with the fuel petcock valve unmolested had been sitting empty and dry and off the bike for about 3 weeks; I noticed the problem when I put the tank back on the bike and filled her up. So two issues here; gas leaking from petcock and gas leaking from carburetor overflow hose. What gives?
  17. hi all, im installing a 426 kit on my 400. i sent my cylinder and head off to the shop to get bored/rebuilt. from all my research i thought that i could get the 88mm overbore without having to resleeve. the shop insists that 87mm is the max overbore for the xr400. can anyone confirm this? id like to avoid having to pay for the resleeve as well.
  18. XR400EX


    Alright guys, so I am new here so before I get started I just wanted to make a few opening remarks... *If this post is in the wrong section I apologize and if it's possible to move please do so and I know this topic has been brought up before somewhere but I can not find it so here it is again...and hopefully gives more information on this build. Also if anyone has questions about this ongoing project I should be able to answer them. The reason I have decided to finally make this post is because I have finally got it all buttoned up (engine wise) and seems to be running well...aside from a few complications which maybe some of you can help out with. Lastly, my apologies for the long post I felt that I should include most things I did because in my own research, this project is not talked about much at all it seems. So here it is, I have been working on this project for around 5-6 months now and, mind you, it started as a basket case so it doesn't look great cosmetically by any means and most of the plastics are either gone or damaged but mechanically, all parts appear to be there and it working condition. What I have done is exactly what the title says, placed a 400EX engine into an XR400 frame. Now, most people that do this start with the XR400 and find a 400EX engine to put in, but I was given a frame and engine with a buck of extra bolts, nuts and clamps. After two years of sitting in my basement I decided to test if the engine turned over, great news, it did. SO, that motivated me to put it in the frame and it DOES fit, but the bottom frame mount is too far up to be used, but with three other mounts tightened down, it was fine. BAD IDEA, turns out the engine had ZERO compression and needed a new top end because whoever had it last put the piston in backwards and bent the intake valves. After a couple weeks I found the time to get the engine bored out 1mm over and changed the valves. *REBUILD* Got the 400EX taken apart and slowly starting to find the issues associated to ZERO compression According to the piston, two intake valves were coming in contact with the piston itself, luckily this appeared to be a fresh rebuild...otherwise it may have detonated and caused many other issues.. And just as expected...bent intake valves...which mean possible cracked or damaged valve stems... Clearly, these are the culprit for no compression...to the left is the PVC pipe valve spring compressor I used to get the valves out, but not in I will show that tool later on. Further investigation revealed build up of some sort on the piston wall, so after attempting to hone this away I quit and took it to get it bored out. Knowing that I had bent the valves, I decided it was best to check the timing chain and low and behold...it was slapping all over the place inside the case when it "started" for the first time I assume... Removed both inner and out clutch baskets, oil pump gear and drive gear to get to chain and found out that the oil pump does not need to be removed to get to the chain(rookie mistake) and also discovered that the springs behind the outer clutch basket move freely which is not what they are supposed to do I am guessing...so that will be replaced. New chain in and clutch baskets are torqued back down with a new piston on top...another rookie mistake...make sure to put the piston on BEFORE putting the jug back on...yeah felt like an idiot after I did that... Very hard to tell but from my measurements...the original chain(left) was stretched by half a link I believe Also found out that at some point the crank was replaced....just hope that whoever put the piston in backwards didn't do anything wrong here... Seated new valves(ended up going back through a few more times after I took this picture) Valves and springs put back in the head and retaining clips in...I'd like to think I saved myself some money by making a compressor tool in the upper right corner Used a clamp and I duct taped a copper crush washer on the other end to help protect the head....the thinking was that the copper would dent before anything else would And finally all back together...but keep in mind this motor still hasn't been started in 4 years at the least.... **Starting** 1/15/17 Bike officially started today, but it is really cold here so it was running lean with a high idle and slight back fire when revving...will try again when weather warms up... 2/19/17 Had a nice 50 degree day and decided to take it out and try to start it again and she still comes to life...but the idle was still high in this video...I was able to get it adjusted to a nice even idle....the only problem was that it had to be at full choke...vacuum leak? I figured since I am running an XR400 carb right now it probably won't run the best anyway...but full choke shouldn't be necessary regardless...if anyone has any tips or suggests feel free to let me know...willing to try out other carbs without the insane price tags.. Of the four available engine mounting locations on the XR400 frame(I think) I only used three but have plans to move the bottom one down to put that to use.. Closing remarks This is my first post and I did learn a significant amount in the process but keep in mind this is by no means complete so I will still be figuring more things out as I go...and as I said I have not many posts...(one really) about this project being done and the details of fitment. The most I saw were people guessing that it would not be possible to fit this machine, but I believe that I can say it is "fitted" now but a few more kinks just need to be straightened out...other than that I am looking forward to finishing it up and going for a ride...one day!
  19. Looking for a motorcycle Mechanic to do some mods on my 1996 honda xr400. I want to do the electric start conversion ,do the crf front fork conversion, and maybe a light bar...I live in central california, and would drive up to 200 miles, or consider shipping the bike... Everyone I talk to is scared to do it.....let me know You can reply on here, or call/text Sean @ 805 345 6827.
  20. Hey all! So, yesterday I just received a new acerbis plastics kit, everything mounted perfectly on, but the rear fender needs a few things to be ready. Haven't drilled the top holes yet, and I am also wondering about the tail light fitting in there. The acerbis rear fender has this cap on top of the tail light housing, it is removable but underneath there a few holes. So, the question is, do I remove the cap and install the light exposed to water/mud from the rear wheel due to the holes, or do I keep the cap and tighten the bulb and the crystal on that? The first option requires that I drill 2 tiny holes that keep the bulb and the crystal on the bottom of the fender, while the second option kinda gives me the feeling that the cap might fly away (along with the crystal) due to vibrations! Thanks for all the advice so far, I have nothing but compliments for the community! Cheers
  21. HI, I have a Honda 2001 xr250 . I'm needing to know if there is any other year/model Honda XR parts that will fit my bike. Thanks
  22. I just bought a 2002 honda xr 400r about a month ago. it has an fmf power core 4 muffler and fmf power bomb headers with 54/142 carb jetting. Ive changed the oil with honda hp4s full synthetic oil 2 times now(1 time to flush out whatever the previous owner ran). I also added lucas motocycle oil stabilizer.also I know for a fact I added way too much gumout tune up in a bottle to the fuel so I dumped the tank and carb and refilled with the same exxon 93 octane fuel as before. so now heres where my problem started, I washed the bike the other night and sprayed out the spark plug cavity for a good 1-2 minutes after changing the plug earlier that day. I cranked it up and smoke started pouring from around the headers and coming out the exhaust as well. it also started sputtering and trying to die if I didnt give it any throttle. ever since then theres been smoke coming out of the exhaust and the sputtering/need for throttle to keep it running. after it gets warm and I ride it around for a few minutes its fine. the smoke is white and only comes out for 30 seconds max and the sputtering lasts about 1 minute until its warm. did I get water in the head from spraying out the cavity? is the oil additive causing the smoke and sputtering? did the gumout tune up in a bottle cause the problem? did adding the extra 12 oz of stabilizer over fill the crankcase and cause the problem? bottom line- WHY IS MY BIKE SMOKING AND SPUTTERING ON COLD STARTS??!?!? sorry if this is a random string of questions my brain is just fried at this point...
  23. Recently I've found myself playing with a few older xr's. Currently I have an 86 XR200 and an 82 XR250 that I ride in vintage enduro events. Most of these shock absorbers are turfed in favour of a later model shock or something 'rebuildable'. The gas canisters appear to be fully sealed and non-rechargeable. I couldn't really find any info on this, so thought it'd be worth posting what I've found here. Rebuilding these is no more difficult than rebuilding any other XR shock. These DO have a schrader valve - it's just hidden under a tamper proof cap. See pictures below. Standard shock canister: The tamper proof cap: Small hole drilled in the cap - just large enough to get a screw driver in there to lever the cap off: Cap off: Bladder 'cap' tapped downwards lightly to reveal the circlip: Bladder removed: The rest of the shock rebuild is the same as any other XR. The canister is the only difference worth noting in terms of seal head replacement between the earlier and later models. I've been unable to find a listing for the shock seal head, but have successfully used All Balls and Moose kits P/N 37-1010. I believe the only reason they don't have a listing is because Honda stated that they weren't serviceable in the early pro-link days.
  24. I'm new in this forum but I've been searching anonymously from long time so its the time I had to create an account to ask a question. I live in the middle east (Bahrain) The Honda XR's are rare here, luckly I found one to buy .. 2000's in a great condition. Now its been 6 months since I bought it. Few days ago I notice it starts weak and low idling, but after riding it for few miles it runs back okay and normal. I'm not an expert in dirt bikes but my guess would be cleaning the carb ? And since I don't know how to do that I'm asking the question here hopefully someone provide me with the right decision. I can post a video if needed.
  25. My 97 xr 400 is hard to start when it is warm. takes about 2-3 kicks when cold. takes well over 20 kicks to even get a splutter when it is warm. not sure if i have water in to gas tank or not. The jets are good and clean not plugged up. Fuel is at 3 turns out and jets are 15pilot and 130 main. float is at 19. Bike also dies when i give it a shake when it is at neutral. anybody know whats wrong? i live at an altitude of 169' thanks yall .
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