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Found 17 results

  1. Hi all. I've been coming through these forums looking for a straight-forward and concise answer as to how to wire an XR400R such that it puts out DC power. My plan is to swap out my tail light and head light bulbs with LEDS and maybe even wire in a battery so that I can have blinkers and a stop light and a horn. I don't want to go through the kits just yet and I don't want to go through the trouble messing with the stator. Does anyone have any step by step instructions as to how to do this?
  2. So here is my conundrum - I have wired up my own harness for my enduro package as I did not like the Tusk version with lots of things I did not want or need. I've wired three different bikes and can read the wiring diagrams fine - even designed/built my own 12V harness with capacitor for my 1970 CT70. Back to the issue - everything works with the exception of my 12V aftermarket horn. I tagged off the blue wire for the headlight (headlight works fine) and sent it to the horn button and then to the horn and then grounded back to the wiring harness. When I press the horn button the light dims and the horn barely sounds - meeeep meeeep. I checked the voltage draw and its only like 1.7V to the horn. Just awful and wont pass DMV to get my street license plate. So I put on my thinking cap and drew on my experience with my CT70 (solid state with a capacitor instead of a battery) and I think the absence of a battery is likely the culprit on my XR400 as it typically evens out the voltage draw on the system (similar to the battery) to provide power to all components. So my question is what if I put a 0-25V 22,000uF capacitor (like I used on my CT70) on the White/Yellow wire coming out of the AC regulator that eventually ties into the BLUE wire that feeds the headlight, horn and rear running taillight? Would that provide the stabilization for the voltage draws when I use all of my accessories? Thanks for any help.
  3. I have a 1986 xr250r, I'm interested in converting the rear drum brake wheel assembly to a rear disc brake system. Has anyone done this, and can you tell me what application parts will get the job done. thanks
  4. I have an 04 CRF230F and I'm looking for some suspension expert in my area. I have a set of XR400R forks, complete with triple clamps, wheel and brake assembly. I also have an XR350R reservoir shock to mount. I'm purchasing a BRP upper clamp for the forks - I'm 6'6" and need some stretch - along with a CRF150F shock linkage rocker to raise up the rear end. Any recommendations on who to go to for this? Thanks!
  5. I am going to lower the xr by 1.75 inches by puttting spacers internally to shorten travel. I bought 11.5 kg rear springs and .47 kg fronts. I am 220 dry,LOL and plan on doing shim stock mods also. Is this going to put more load on springs at resting position,thus stiffening it up too much in front? Not so worried about rear,plenty of adjustment for spring. Should i cut off inch or so of springs,or use stock ones? I know there are lots of people who say dont lower,just too hard to get on and off it at 62 years old with 28" inseam,and lots of injuries,no flexibility left. Thanks for any help guys,as always!
  6. I'm having an issue with my 2000 Honda XR400R, specifically the tail/brake light bulb #1157. My brake light works but my tail light doesn't. I flipped the index pins around and put it back in the socket but it had the reverse effect causing the tail light to come on but not the brake light. I also believe that only the thick wire filament is lighting up. Let me know if y'all have had similar problems and how I can fix it. Ideally the simplest cheapest way. Thanks.
  7. Okay its not a new subject Im sure. But I want to release the power from this old 2005 Japanese spec Xr400 Motard. Where I live in the world its hard to get a dirt bike on the road and there is next to no XR's to choose from. The Motard came up for the right price and its in great condition. So I have decided to make the best of what I can with it. I need to find out if I can swap parts from the R version on to the SM version. From the info I have read the SM has smaller valves and lower compression. Will R barrel and head be the right direction to go? Stage 1 or 2 cam ? Pumper carbs and opening the air box is a no brainer I assume. And of course the exhaust will need replacing to match the the R exhaust port. Please if you know about the R or the SM chime in and give me some advice.
  8. Hi all, So I picked up an 04 XR400 on craigslist for a good price. I took it out on the trails immediately without swapping the old gas cause I was eager to ride the dang thing. Of course, the bike began to stall and backfire on the trail and I managed to get it back to my truck by gravity riding it. Gas was pouring out of the overflow hose when I set the fuel petcock to reserve so I figured the carb just needed some cleaning. So I pulled the carburetor out and cleaned it. In the process, the airbox boot hose connecting the carb to the airbox tore because it was brittle and I went ahead and ordered a new one to replace it. I guess I'll have to pull the subframe apart to take the airbox out and replace the boot; never done this before and was curious to see how others have done it. Anyways, back to the carb issue. When I went to take the fuel screw out just underneath the jets and the float in the carb, I was expecting to get a washer along with the o-ring, needle and spring. I had to fish the o-ring out of there and managed to get it out, but I did not see the washer. I'm not sure if its stuck in there or not; when I shine a light in there to see if it's stuck my mind plays tricks on me and I've tried fishing it out for hours and can't get anything. It could be that there is no washer in there anyways so I went ahead and ordered the carburetor rebuild kit with fresh float valves, jets, gaskets, o-rings, etc. How readily are those washers supposed to come out of the fuel screw bore? I'm paranoid about it being stuck in there this whole time and me adding another washer on top of it when my rebuild kit gets in the mail.
  9. hello all please feel free to comment, any help appreciated! photos : https://photos.app.goo.gl/gWmBoGzpRj0SG1No2 I just purchased a 2004 honda XR400R. I am located in Hungary which is nearly same weather conditions like Great Britain, 4 seasons, warm-hot summers up to 36 degree Celsius, cold winters up to minus 10 degree Celsius... so you can figure. My goal is to use it in the woods, I would like to give something to the bike (average level of restoration) but I would like to have a fun factor and trouble free in return. I am 183 centimetres and 95 kilos guy... The bike was more than 10 years in pretty good shape and serviced, then a guy purchased it who did a few wear and "damage" to the bike, (luckily? he used it mainly on concrete roads, not in forest or like that.) the good: the engine was never opened, the screw-s are original, no wear mark on the screws, ALL the engine gasket-s look like factory. It starts by kick on first-second attempt cold or hot. in hot motor situations, I have to clear the flooded petrol by kicking + decompressor + ignition off, then it starts nicely. it is 15/45 now, it is TOO MUCH of torque for my taste now, it has PRETTY GOOD when not HUGE torque and power all over the range and speeds, but: main problems are: HUGE petrol consumption, about 9,3 litres on a 80 km soft trip trough woods. (carb and fuel cock are dripping, seal and gasket set on the way to repair) or do I have a worn cylinder/piston? :-( how to figure out? measure compression? what value is okay? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Carb-Complete-Master-Repair-Rebuild-Kit-Honda-XR400R-96-04/322300058028?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/XR650R-XR-650R-XR-250R-XR-400R-Honda-NOS-XR-650-Fuel-Petcock-Valve/171885885016?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 very bad condition of bearings in the front steering and rear swingarm/suspension (both suspensions also set very badly, nearly none suspension, all settings on LOW or random), roar-ing sound from the bearings of the swingarm/suspension, knocking movement of the steering http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moose-Racing-Motorcycle-Steering-Stem-Bearing-Kit-22-1021-0410-0029/261382677475?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 knocking sound on idle, I "think" the sound comes NOT from the top area (NOT from under the gas tank, where a valve clearence sound would be assumed) but from the bottom, like the area of the generator.. where your right foot is at the pedals. will investigate this. (video later, see photos gallery) listen to the videos, COLD engine : https://photos.app.goo.gl/Fz6RVvzm4GrFWmTF2 assumed root causes of the knocking: timing chain could be stretched? timing chain tensioner could be worn? just guessing at this time. OF COURSE the valve clearance will be checked too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Honda-Timing-Cam-Chain-Tensioner-14520-KCY-671-TRX400EX-TRX400X-XR400R/121718966212?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 QUESTION 1: -do you think this will fit? sadly, the original speedo is broken, also the speedo cable was ripped out of the speedo mechanic so I think I can forget the original speedo: http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-180km-h-Motorcycle-LED-Backlight-Odometer-Tachometer-Speedometer-Gauge-Black-/232320581366?fits=Model%3AXR400R&hash=item361762bef6:g:tNMAAOSwX61ZCFzZ&vxp=mtr question 2: which one is better for restoring rear suspension/ swingarm? http://www.ebay.de/itm/PIVOT-WORKS-SWING-ARM-BEARING-KIT-HONDA-XR400R-1996-2004-PWSAK-H21-004/231369574277?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648 or http://www.ebay.de/itm/Honda-XR400R-Rear-Suspension-Linkage-Bearing-Kit-By-AllBalls-Racing-/171640116010?epid=1923797959&hash=item27f68c532a:g:73wAAOSwcu5UOXx2 other pieces I ordered to smaller/bigger restoration: I try a 16T (now 15/45) front sprocket, I want less torque, more speed on street, less rev of engine http://www.ebay.com/itm/PBI-COUNTERSHAFT-STEEL-SPROCKET-16T-Fits-Honda-TRX400EX-Sportrax-XR400R-383-16/261705500086?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Locking-Washer-Sprocket-Honda-XR-400-R/263229597576?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-4-Intake-Exhaust-Valve-Stem-Seals-Honda-See-Fitment-Chart/292004388869?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motocycle-MX-wide-Black-Foot-Pegs-For-Honda-XR650L-93-09-XR650R-00-07/162587846682?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-Foldable-Spherical-Motorcycles-ATV-Handlebar-Rearview-Mirrors-10mm-Thread/311969432205?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edge-Cut-Toe-Shift-Lever-with-Shifter-Pegs-Fit-For-Harley-Road-King-Road-Glide/192184760626?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-Throttle-Tube-Sleeve-Replacement-KLX250R-KLX300-OEM-01-0080-06-1080/261706012407?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/WPS-56-2352-Clutch-Lever-Black-56-2352/232335165099?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Filter-Fit-For-Honda-CBR250R-XR200R-XR250R-XR400R-XR600R-XR650R-XR650L-XR250/120911922535?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magnetic-Engine-Oil-Drain-Bolt-Plug-for-Kawasaki-KLX125-D-Tracker125-2010-2015/131753358824?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=431128487224&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 cheers Marton. Life ain't so bad behind BARS, when you have a CHAIN which gives you freedom, what do you think!
  10. I have a 97' Honda XR400R with Acerbis handguards and Fly handlebars. Unfortunately lost the outer handguard mount bolt (the taperlock insert). Having a hard time locating a new one. Any thoughts? The ones I have found from Acerbis are too thick and won't fit into my handlebars. Needs to be 5/16" diameter or smaller. Here's a link to what doesn't work. https://www.motorsportsuperstore.com/moose-racing-outer-handguard-mount-taperlock-insert.html?id=5a2a926fa47e1a229ee174f6b5dea293&adw=PPC_Google_pla_5a2a926fa47e1a229ee174f6b5dea293&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6pLZBRCxARIsALaaY9bzdaQfN3lnGeBsSY-7qXcjTHj2D8_56fWVa-PtAdp7kSVDsExUGWAaAu-hEALw_wcB Seriously looking for help. Can't seem to find anything that will work. Here are my handlebars... http://www.flyracing.com/product/aero-flex-handlebars
  11. Considering selling my 2013 CRF250L I bought brand new for a used CA plated XR400. I was wondering how do they compare in weight and power. Is it worth it? or should I look for something else. I am mainly just looking for something a little lighter with a little more power. I was also considering a 2012 Husqvarna TE310 or possibly even an XR600. Thanks Rory Also, if you are interested in purchasing my 2013 CRF250L, it will be for sale towards the end of 2019 once I am back home in Corona, CA, so please leave a comment with your email if so. I am asking $3500 for it.
  12. I broke down and bought a decent condition four stroke to follow my son around on. My beloved 1987 CR500 was not working for a chase bike lol, and I was tired of working my old RM250, I thought hey, an old XR400R would be perfect and nearly zero maintenance, so I found an old one on CL, gave it a 5 min test ride and off I went. After about two rides it started a weird idle issue. I am having a really hard time figuring out the issue, any ideas would help??? My sons xr50 is ready but dad is failing... Bike started a bit hard, and would idle really high after you let off throttle from 1/4 throttle softly. If you popped the throttle it would then drop down and idle so low that if I wasn't moving in gear pushing the engine over it would die. I suspected an air leak or dirty carb, so I ordered a rebuild kit and rebuilt the carb. Same issue, no change. So I replaced the oring on the manifold and same issue, then I noticed a crack in the manifold and thought woohoo I found the issue!! I ordered a new manifold and an OEM oring. I put it all together and same thing! I can hear an air leak (suction) but cannot figure out where in the world it's coming from. I checked the carb side of the manifold as well, and dissasmbled it to make sure everything was seated right, exact same issue. Rebuilt carb, new manifold, new oring, still sucking air and idling so erratic that is dangerous to ride, completely unpredictable. One turn it will idle high and push through and the next it will fall on its face and nearly die. Any of you four stroke guru's have suggestions? Thanks, J.D.
  13. Hey everyone new to forum , I was wondering if anyone has seen these issues with my dirtbike first off I'll start with my Honda xr400r (1997) , so first off the bikes would ride fine but have been stored for more than a few months, to start my Honda I have to open the choke all the way or it won't start once I get it on after 2-4 kicks with the choke open she starts up and once I turn off the choke it idles ok sometimes it'll sound low idle but will than stay idling and when I lightly pump the throttle it sounds fine but once I open past half way it sounds kind of boggy and if I hold it open it'll just completely just bogg down and die and I've tried filling the tank complete of gas and it's still the same issue could it be the carbs ? Would cleaning the floats be enough or would I have to clean the jets aswell ? And how would I adjust them back how they should be ? What could be causing it to die like that because I can ride it fine if I don't use too much throttle but if I try and open it a little too much it's starts to bogg or will just bogg down and die ...?? Any help please I want to open carbs and clean them but unsure if I remove jets that I will not tune them back how they should be if they need tuning??
  14. so i just bought a 2002 xr400R for 1700 canadian doll hairs, very nice machine. it starts when i get my twig leg to put enough force on the kickstart LOL. but as soon as i touch the choke there is a popping noise in the carb and it dies out. also when i tried riding it, she bogs heavily when i get to mid to high RPMs. im not as mechanically inclined as id like to say i am unfortunately, when it comes to carbs anyways. they really get my jimmy rustled... me being the impatiant guy i am, i took the damn thing apart following a youtube video, and when it got back together it still got the bike running, but now it floods out the bottom when i kick it over. HELP!
  15. All, I've used Google and BING to try and search through TT posts on frame colors and I thought I had it nailed down. Ordered the Duplicolor Paint "Perfect Match" 176 and it was not the right color (silver and not dark grey metallic). So my question is does anyone have a source for the frame paint color? CMSNL says that the paint code is 50100-kcy-760-ZA and it is almost a dark grey/bluish metallic paint. I've looked at several different sites as well and they all say the paint color is discontinued. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  16. Guy's, I have an 1997 Honda XR400R and I need to do the front forks. I'm a big guy 6'4" 375lbs. So far I haven't been able to find a setup for a big guy. Any suggestions besides losing a lot of weight. :-)
  17. Pretty happy to have recovered my old 2001 XR400 this past weekend. Police called Thursday night to say it had been recovered after 1.5 years and brought to the impound. Got it back Friday morning and these pictures are right after getting it home. Unlike my son's TTR110 which was literally twisted and broken when recovered my old XR started first kick. Ran it around the yard and it went up and down the gears and everything worked. Pretty shocking given it was stolen by the same bunch of ignorant jerks that destroyed the TTR. Obviously the blue paint job was added to hide it... This bike was pristine when I purchased it in 2012. In process of ordering parts to restore it to non-ridiculous appearance. When I have some time I will be running a compression check to see if I need to open it up. Ran great when it was stolen and it seems to run ok now...so it may only need rings and a piston. It was ridden a bunch as witness the rear knobbies.
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